Touring    Alaska 

and    the    Yellowstone 


Lower  Falls,  Grand  Canun,  From  Point  Lookol  r 


Frontispiece 


CURING 
ALASKA 

at     i\     d         the 

YELLOW- 
STONE V 


By  CHARLES   M.  TAYLOR.  jR. 

Author  of  "Vacation  Days  in  Hawaii  and  Japan,"  "The  Britlab  lalea 
through  an  Opera  Glass,"  "  Odd  Bits  of  Travel  with  Brush  and 
Camera,"  etc.,  etc.        ••««  •««••« 


Profusely     IllustraLted      from     PKotogra-phs 
v€        N<        v<        by     the     Author        ^        ^ 


PHILADELPHIA 

GEORGE    W.    JACOBS    &    CO. 

103     OLnd     105     South     Fifteenth     Street 


l-ondon. 

THE    PORT     PUBLISHING     COIUPANY, 

Mansion  House   Chambers, 

II,   Queen   Victoria   Street,    E.C. 


Copyright,  1901 

by 

George  W.  Jacobs  &  Co. 


This  Book  is  Affectionately 

Dedicated  to  my 

Brother 

My  Lifelong  Friend  and  Companion 


If  thou  art  worn  and  hard  beset 

With  sorrows  that  thou  wouldst  forget, 

If  thou  wouldst  read  a  lesson,  that  will  keep 

Thy  heart  from  fainting,  and  thy  soul  from  sleep, 

Go  to  the  woods  and  hills! — no  tears 

Dim  the  sweet  look  that  nature  wears. 

— Longfellow. 


PREFACE 


VERY  traveller  is  affected  to  a  certain  extent 
by  the  scenes  through  which  he  passes. 
The  climate,  customs  and  associations  of 
each  place,  whether  he  will  or  not,  have  an 
influence  upon  his  whole  being. 

Let  a  citizen  of  the  northern  lands  visit  a  tropical 
country,  such  as  fair  Hawaii — inhale  its  fresh  pure 
breezes  laden  with  the  mingled  odors  of  the  rose 
and  honeysuckle,  and  the  fragrant  blossoms  of  the 
fruit  trees — look  heavenward  and  behold  the  con- 
stantly changing  panorama  of  beautiful  cloud  ef- 
fects, which  continue  here  from  dawn  till  eventide. 
Let  him  study  the  wonderful  variety  of  its  trees 
and  plants — gaze  upon  its  mighty  craters  as  they 
breathe  forth  their  volumes  of  fire  and  smoke — pass 
through  its  miles  of  jungle,  plucking  at  will  wild 
oranges,   lemons  and    innumerable    berries.     Will 


8  Preface 

not  his  whole  nature  be  moved  by  the  new  life  here 
experienced  ? 

Or,  let  him  cross  the  threshold  of  Japan,  establish 
himself  in  one  of  her  cities  or  villages,  and  observe 
the  strange  religious  customs — curious  tea  houses — 
picturesque  costumes,  and  skilled  workmanship  of 
these  people.  Let  him  feel  the  thrill  of  an  earth- 
quake   Does  he  leave  these  shores  unin- 
fluenced by  the  various  phases  of  life  here  wit- 
nessed ? 

Should  his  route  lie  amid  the  scenes  of  a  more 
modern  civilization,  even  here  he  will  find  relics  of 
ancient  history — cathedrals,  abbeys,  ancestral  homes 
— wonderful  lochs  and  castles,  which  he  cannot 
afford  to  pass  unnoticed,  and  peculiar  characteristics 
which  thrust  themselves  upon  his  attention,  and 
leave  an  ineradical  impression  upon  his  mind. 
From  each  in  turn  is  won  a  different  estimate  of 
humanity — of  nations — of  history — of  life  itself. 

What  then  has  America  to  offer  that  is  new  or 
passing  strange,  to  the  world-worn  traveller,  seek- 
ing still  a  new  sensation  ?  Neither  ancient  temples, 
cathedrals,  nor  the  excavated  ruins  of  buried  cities 
as  yet  adorn  her  plains.  Y£t  she  is  ready  to  con- 
tribute her  share,  and  no  trifling  one,  to  the  educa- 
tion and  entertainment  of  mankind.     For  who  can 


Preface  9 

view  the  magnificent  scenes  of  the  Yellowstone 
Park,  with  its  steaming  geysers,  emerald  lakes,  and 
hills  of  petrified  foam — its  precipitous  mountains, 
lofty  waterfalls  and  deep  ravines  without  being 
stirred  to  his  inmost  depths  ?  Who  can  behold  the 
majestic  beauty  of  the  Selkirk  and  Rocky  Mountain 
Ranges,  the  chain  of  vast  lakes,  the  "Big  Trees," 
and  not  feel  more  strongly  than  before,  the  mighty 
presence  of  that  Infinite  Power  which  rules  the 
Universe. 

Can  one  visit  the  arctic  region  of  Alaska,  whose 
snowy  peaks  and  giant  glaciers  are  unsurpassed  by 
the  known  wonders  of  the  globe — whose  untold 
wealth  reminds  him  of  the  subterranean  treasures 
of  the  genii, — and  come  away  no  richer  in  thought 
and  feeling  from  the  experiences  of  this  journey  to 
the  land  of  the  midnight  sun  ? 

Yes,  America  comes  with  both  hands  filled,  and 
offers  her  gigantic  spectacles,  her  unparalleled  won- 
ders to  add  to  the  great  store  of  human  knowledge. 

In  describing  the  scenes  of  my  journey,  I  would 
use  the  pigments  of  an  ardent  lover  of  nature,  with 
truth  and  fact  as  my  background.  Should  the 
colors  not  seem  to  blend  harmoniously,  it  is  not 
from  any  fault  in  the  pictures,  but  solely  to  the  in- 
experience with  which  1  handle  my  materials.     For 


10 


Preface 


this  I  ask  the  lenient  judgment  of  the  hitherto 
patient  reader — whose  encouragement  has  induced 
me  to  launch  this  volume  upon  the  wings  of  a  new 

century. 

C.  M.  T. 
January,  isi,  ipoi. 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  I 

From  Montreal  to  the  Rocky  Mountains 21 

Montreal — A  Mixed  Population — Old  Homesteads — 
Sawmills — "Imperial  Limited" — Brandon — The  Ranch- 
man— Wheat  Districts — Railroad  Lands — Cowboys — A 
Dream  of  the  Past — Qu'Appelle — Medicine  Hat — Stock 
Farms — Calgary — An  English  Settlement — First  Glimpse 
of  the  Rockies — The  Noble  Red  Man — Into  Nature's 
Heart — Scenes  of  Beauty — Echoes — Canmore — Pictur- 
esque Tourists — Cascade  Mountain — Many  Lofty  Peaks — 
Banff — A  Magnificent  Mountain  Region — Banff  Springs 
Hotel — Mountain  Trout — Noted  Guides — A  Superb  View 
—The  Bow  Valley— A  Delightful  Drive— Sulphur 
Springs — An  Enthusiastic  Englishman — Ride  to  Devil's 
Lake — The  Sunken  Lake — Scene  at  Night. 

CHAPTER  II 
Among  the  Giants 57 

The  Banks  of  the  Bow  River — A  Bewildering  Group — 
Castle  Mountain  —  Mountain  Lakes  —  Eldon  Station — 
Desolation  Valley — Bald  Mountain — Weird  Shapes — 
Bowls  and  Pyramids — Up  the  Steep  Ascent — Laggan 
Station — Time  goes  Backward — Amid  Snow  and  Ice — 
The  Great  Divide — Wapta  Rapids — Indescribable  Scenes 
11 


1 2  Contents 

— Kicking  Horse  Pass — Cascades — Field  Station — Mount 
Stephen — Silver  Lead  Mine — The  Selkirks — Glaciers 
and  Mountain  Streams — Any  Sign  of  a  Grizzly? — The 
Beautiful  Columbia — In  the  Canon — Tunnels — A  Gloomy 
Gorge  —  Beaver  Mouth  Station  —  Bear  Creek  —  Stony 
Creek  Bridge — Travelling  through  Space — On  the  Sum- 
mit— Cedar  Creek  Bridge — Nature's  Utmost — Snovif-Sheds 
— Macdonald  and  The  Hermit — The  Great  Glacier — Sir 
Donald. 

CHAPTER  III 

From  the  Mountains  to  the  Sea 85 

A  Welcome  Delay — The  Loop — An  Early  Morning 
View — A  Deep  Canon — Hotels — Revelstoke — Kamloops 
Lake  —  Villagers  —  Valley  of  the  Thompson  —  Black 
Canon — Landslides — Old  Government  Road — Thompson 
Canon — Color  Harmonies — Fantastic  Shapes — Lytton — 
The  Fraser — A  Fearful  Ravine — Fraser  Canon — Gor- 
geous Hues — Hell  Gate — Hope  Station — Devil's  Lake — 
Silver  Ore — Mission  Junction — Mount  Baker — Dealers  in 
Flesh  and  Blood — Chinese  Labor — A  Ghostly  Vehicle — 
Rest — Vancouver — A  City  of  Wonderful  Growth — Vast 
Forest  —  Clearings  —  U.  S.  Customs — Seattle — Roads — 
Shops — Hilly  Streets — Harbor — Natural  Advantages — 
The  Steamship  "  Queen  " — Fair  Prospects — Brief  History 
of  Alaska. 

CHAPTER  IV 
In  Alaskan  Waters iii 

Muggins — Admiralty  Inlet — Port  Townsend — Inland 
Route — Victoria — Fragrant  Roads — Gulf  of  Georgia — 
Islands — A  Day  Without  a  Night — Walk  on  Deck — 
Various  Characters — In  the  Saloon — Returning  Steamers 


Contents  13 

— Twilight — A  Changing  Panorama — Silence — Whales — 
Seymour  Narrows — Lonely  Cabins — Haunt  of  the  Fairies 
— Adventurers  and  Speculators — An  Important  Experi- 
ment— Clouds,  Wind  and  Rain — Milbank  Sound — Story 
of  the  Moose — Graham  Reach — Labyrinthian  Water- 
ways— Home  of  the  Wild  Creatures — "  The  Coquittam  " 
— Camera  Fiends — Salmon  Canneries — Native  Fisher- 
men— Through  the  Telescope — Eagles — Aerial  Reflec- 
tions— Future  Prospects. 

CHAPTER  V 

Through  the  Archipelago  to  Wrangel 137 

Baker's  Inlet — Sea-Gulls  and  Eagles — A  Recluse — 
— Storms  —  Metlakahtla  —  A  Christian  Village — Perse- 
cution—  Wrecks  —  Brown's  Pass  —  Sunset  —  A  Gor- 
geous Pageant — Dundas  Islands — International  Boundary 
Line — In  American  Waters — Annette  Island — New  Met- 
lakahtlans  —  Their  Rules  —  Industries  —  Ketchikan — A 
Dismal  Town — National  Holiday — Program  of  the  Sports 
— Tongas  Narrows — A  Difficult  Pass — Prince  of  Wales 
Island  —  Change  of  Route  —  Clarence  Strait — Native 
Tribes — Wrangel — Front  Street — Dilapidated  Buildings 
— Numerous  Dogs  —  Dealers — Old  Women  —  Shops — 
Hunter's  Rest — Photographs — Totem  Poles — A  Christian 
Pastor — The  Northern  Light — Tide-water  Glacier — The 
Spirit  of  the  Thunder  Bird — Arctic  Regions — Home  of 
the  Walrus  and  Seal — Summer  Strait — Land  of  the 
Kakes— "  Good-Night,  or  Good-Day?  " 

CHAPTER  VI 

Juneau  and  the  Famous  Treadwell  Mine 169 

Juneau — Flashing  Cascades — A  Varying  Population — 
Curio  Shops — Seward  Street — Newspapers — Grand  Con- 


14  Contents 


cert — On  Juneau  Hill — Enchanting  Views — Fickle  Dame 
Fortune — Methodist  Church — Gay  Social  Atmosphere — 
Fisheries — Native  Women — National  Holidays — Volun- 
teer Fire  Brigade — Douglas  Island — Artillery  of  the 
Mine — Greatest  Quartz  Mill  in  the  World — Pantomime — 
Gold  Quartz — Miner's  Pay — A  Dissatisfied  Group — The 
Village — 111  Luck — John  Treadwell — A  Chance  Invest- 
ment—  Lynn  Canal  —  Magnificent  Panorama  —  Eagle 
Glacier  —  Lower  Temperature — The  Great  Auk — Icy 
Summits — A  Performing  Whale — Brothers  and  Sisters — 
A  Brief  Night — A  Shower — The  Rainbow — Chilkoot 
Inlet — Midnight — Skagway — A  City  of  Rapid  Growth — 
Newspapers — The  Future  of  the  Town. 


CHAPTER  VII 

Over  the  White  Pass  to  Lake  Bennett 199 

A  Great  Undertaking — Opening  of  the  Road — Our 
Train — Clearings — An  Interruption — Pinnacle  Mountain 
— Rocky  Point  —  The  Trestle — White  Pass  Canon — 
Forest  Fires — Distant  Views — Unrivalled  Scenery — Blue 
Granite — Hanging  Rocks — Blasting — Huge  Boulders — 
Monarchs  Dethroned — Tin  Cans — Packhorses — Suicide 
Rock — White  Pass  City — North  Fork  Falls — Among  the 
Clouds — Pioneer  Days — A  Series  of  Waterfalls — Whirl- 
ing Round  the  Mountain-Sides — Summit  Gorge — The 
Tunnel — Glacier  Gorge — A  Stupendous  Feat — Nature's 
Roadbed — Above  the  Snow  Line — Snowballs — Winter 
Gales — Old  Pack  Trail — On  the  Summit — A  Lovely  Lake 
— Mosquitoes — Under  Two  Flags — Bennett  City — Ex- 
tending the  Route — Tents  and  Cottages — A  Christian  Set- 
tlement —  Railroad  and  Church  —  Lake  Bennett — Barge 
Builders — Enroute  for  the  Klondike — A  Fairy  Scene — 
The  Old  Town — Signs — Dinner — On  British  Territory — 
A  Lone  Prospector. 


Contents  ij; 

CHAPTER  VIII 

Glacier  Bay,  Muir  Glacier,  and  Killisnoo 229 

Leaving  Skagway — Catching  Ice  —  Glacier  Bay — 
Scenes  at  Night  —  Among  the  Icebergs  —  Wonderful 
Shapes — Aquatic  Birds — Bartlett  Bay — Willoughby  Is- 
land— The  Silent  City — Sea-Gulls — First  Glimpse  of 
Muir  Glacier — Arctic  Scenery — Inexhaustible  Stores — 
The  Face  of  the  Glacier — Pressure  of  the  Ice  Floes — An 
Exciting  Moment — A  Stupendous  Spectacle — A  Giant 
among  the  Giants — Dundas  Bay — San  Tereta — Sur- 
rounded by  Canoes— Natives — Buying  Curios — A  Tat- 
tered Hat — Old  Moccasins — Indian  Village — Sunday — A 
Lonely  Shore — On  Terra  Firma — Killisnoo — Schools  of 
Herring — Oil  Works — The  Schooner — Large  Hauls — 
The  Angler — Extracting  the  Oil — Fisheries  —  Russian 
Chapel — Saginaw  Jake — The  Kootznahoos — A  Peaceful 
Tribe — Indian  Tents — Squaws — Not  to  be  Bribed — A 
Picture  by  Strategy — The  Village  Street — Wares  for  Sale 
— Tides — No  Physicians. 


CHAPTER  IX 
The  Capital  of  Alaska a6i 

Peril  Strait— The  Path  of  the  Steamer— A  Deep  Cav- 
ern— The  "  Columbine  " — A  Dangerous  Channel — Old 
Sitka — The  Capital — The  Stars  and  Stripes— Population 
— Lincoln  Street — Russian  Church  of  St.  Michaels — In- 
terior— Indian  River  Park — Alaskan  Herald  —  Mount 
Verstovoi — Museums — Mount  St.  Elias — Ruins  of  the 
Castle  —  Excursions  —  The  Return  Voyage  —  Familiar 
Scenes  —  Rodman's  Bay  —  Halibut  Fishing  —  White 
Headed  Eagles — A  Fine  Prize — Settlements — Mission- 
aries— Rainy  Days — End  of  the  Alaskan  Trip — A  Double 
Illumination — Farewell  to  the  Arctic  Regions. 


1 6  Contents 

CHAPTER   X 
The  Yellowstone  Park 283 

Seattle — A  Busy  City — Portland — Beautiful  Views — 
En  Route  for  the  Yellowstone — By  Moonlight — Trestles 
— Driving  Cattle — Cmnabar  Station — Extent  of  the  Park 
— Regulations — Abundance  of  Flowers — Fishing — Origin 
of  the  Name — Marvellous  Coloring — Park  Coaches — A 
Dusty  Road — Electric  Peak — Gardiner  Canon — A  Supply 
Station  —  Northern  Boundary  Line — Campers — Linen 
Dusters — Eagle  Nest  Rock — Mammoth  Hot  Springs — 
Terraces  and  Springs — Liberty  Cap — Devil's  Thumb — 
McCartney's  Cabin — Early  Explorers — Jupiter  Terrace — 
Calcareous  Deposits — Temperature  of  the  Springs — 
Sepulcher  Mountain — Mount  Everts — Angel  Terrace — 
Many  Beautiful  Formations — White  Elephant — Devil's 
Kitchen — An  Uncanny  Cooking  Place — Orange  Terrace 
—  Bath  Lake  —  Transformation  —  Dangerous  Paths  — 
Hotel  System,  and  Transportation  Company. 


CHAPTER  XI 

Geysers  and  Hot  Springs 309 

Beginning  the  Tour — The  Golden  Gate — Devil's  Slide 
— Bicycle  Tourists — Rustic  Falls — Apollinaris  Spring — A 
Missing  Boy — Obsidian  Cliff — A  Road  of  Glass — Indian 
Arrows — Beaver  Lake — Roaring  Mountain — Devil's  Fry- 
ing-Pan — Norris  Geyser  Basin — "  Larry  " — Luncheon — 
Souvenirs — Sulphuric  Odors — Pine  Sulphur  Spring — 
Congress  Spring — Black  Growler — Hurricane — Emerald 
Pool — New  Crater — Devil's  Inkstand — Monarch  Geyser 
— Minute  Man — The  First  Coach — "  The  Boys  " — Mainte- 
nance of  the  Roads — Dangerous  Shores — Park  Drives — 
The  Teapot  —  Mount  Schurz — Gibbon  Canon — Beryl 
Spring — Gibbon  Falls — Firehole  River — Grizzly  Bears— 


Contents  17 


333 


The  Driver's  Stor}' — White  Dust — "Stop  overs" — Tour- 
ist's Outfit — Still  Greater  Wonders— Mammoth  Paint 
Pots — Fines — Accidents. 

CHAPTER  XII 

In  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin 

"  No  Name  " — Clepsydra  Spring — Fountain  Geyser — 
King  of  the  Basin — A  Sublime  Spectacle — The  Jet 
— The  Dump — Photographing  the  Bears — Laughing 
Gas — Midway  Geyser  Basin — Turquoise  Spring — Pris- 
ma:tic  Lake — Unrivalled  Beauty — Excelsior  Geyser — 
"  Hell's  Half  Acre  " — The  Gem — Morning  Glory — Grotto 
Geyser — Punch-bowl — A  Bewildering  Wonderland — 
Black  Sand  Basin — Emerald  Pool — Sunset  Lake — An- 
ticipations— Hasty  Descriptions — Geyser  Time  Table — 
College  Students — "  The  Friend  of  the  Tourist " — A  Re- 
liable Geyser — A  Marvellous  Spectacle — The  Patriarch — 
Bee  Hive  —  Giantess  —  Butterfly  —  Topaz  Pool  —  The 
Quaker — The  Lion  and  his  Family — Castle  Geyser — The 
Largest  Cone  in  the  Park — Water  of  the  Geysers — Saw- 
mill—  A  Bluebell  —  Oblong  Geyser — Giant — A  Milk 
Geyser — The  End  of  the  Day. 


CHAPTER  XIII 

Yellowstone  Lake  AND  THE  Grand  CaSon 361 

The  Castle  Geyser  Plays — Old  Faithful's  Farewell — 
Keppler  Cascade — Camera  Shots — Firehole  Canon — Con- 
tinental Divide — Isa  Lake — Craig  Pass — Corkscrew  Hill 
— Instructing  the  Driver — Shoshone  Point — Thumb  Bay 
Lunch  Station — The  Shape  of  the  Lake — Over  the 
Mountain  Tops — A  Striking  Scene — Great  Yellowstone 
Lake — An  Abundance  of  Water — More  Paint  Pots — 
Lake  Shore  Geyser — Fishing  Cone — Boiling  the  Fish — 


l8  Contents 

The  Launch  "  Zillah  "—Dot  Island— Elk  and  Buffalo- 
Mount  Sheridan — Absaroka  Range — Many  Lofty  Sum- 
mits— A  Glorious  Scene — Stevenson  Island — Lake  Hotel 
—  Sleeping  Giant — Pelicans  —  Alum  Creek  —  Queer 
Stories — Yellowstone  River— Mud  Geyser — The  Rapids 
— Upper  Falls— A  Celebrated  Spot— Grand  Point— A 
i  Magnificent  View — The  Canon — Brilliant  Colors — In- 
spiration Point — Point  Lookout — Lower  Falls — Moran 
Point— A  Million  Tints— The  Ravine— Devil's  Watch 
Charm  —  Grand  View  Point — A  Rapid  Descent — A 
Charming  Walk— In  the  Canon — Farewell. 


Lfst  of  Etustrations 


Lower  Falls,  Grand  Canon,  from  Point  Lookout  .    .      Frontispiece 

Burnt  Bridge,  Near  Chaplean  Station Page  27 

Cascade  Mountain,  Banff "  33 

Spray  Falls,  Banff "  44 

Mountain  Road  Near  Banff "  52 

View  of  Bow  Valley  from  Banff  Springs  Hotel  ....  "  6i 

Devil's  Head  Caflon,  Near  Lake  Minnewanka  ....  "  69 

Kicking  Horse  Pass "  80 

Descending  Kicking  Horse  Pass "  92 

Mount  Stephen "  lOl 

The  Glacier  from  Glacier  House  Station •«  124 

Malacca  Pass "  141 

Passing  S.  S.  Al-Ki,  Chatham  Sound "  156 

Totem  Pole,  Wrangel "  164 

Ascending  Summit  White  Pass "  177 

Log  Cabin   Station,  Summit  White   Pass  and  Yukon 

Route "  185 

Bennett  City  (Two  years  old) "  196 

Lake  Bennett "  206 

Old  Portion  Bennett  City "  215 

Catching  Ice  in  Glacier  Bay "  225 

Glacier  Bay "  236 

San  Tcreta,  Dundas  Bay "  246 

Killisnoo  Village "  255 

Killisnoo  Belle "  265 

Awaiting  Customers — Sitka ••  278 

19 


20  List  of  Illustrations 

Cinnabar  Station,  En  Route  for  Mammoth  Hot  Springs,  Page  288 
Devil's  Thumb,  Liberty  Cap  and  First  House  Built  in 


Yellowstone  Park 

Jupiter  Terrace 

Golden  Gate,  Yellowstone  Park   .    .    .    . 
Touring  Through  the  Yellowstone  Park  . 

Turquoise  Spring 

Old  Faithful  (before  eruption) 

The  Sponge 

The  Celebrated  Fishing  Cone 

Leaving  Lake  Hotel 

We  Pass  Through  Miles  of  Pine  Forests 


293 
303 
316 

324 
337 
345 
356 
366 

375 
385 


From  Montreal  to 

the  Rocky  Mountains 


CHAPTER  I 
^Tom  clilontreal  to  the  Rocky  Mountains 

Montreal — A  Mixed  Population — Old  Homesteads — Sawmills — 
The  "  Imperial  Limited  " — Our  Chef — At  Chaplean  Station 
— Fort  William — Brandon — The  Ranchman — Wheat  District 
— Railroad  Lands  and  Crops — Cowboys — A  Dream  of  the 
Past — Qu  'Appelle — Medicine  Hat — Stock  Farms — Calgary — 
An  English  Settlement — First  Glimpse  of  the  Rockies — The 
Noble  Red  Man — Into  Nature's  Heart — Scenes  of  Beauty — 
Echoes — Canmore — Picturesque  Tourists — Cascade  Mountain 
— Many  Lofty  Peaks  —  Banff — A  Magnificent  Mountain 
Region  —  Banff  Springs  Hotel — Mountain  Trout  —  Noted 
Guides — A  Delightful  Drive — Sulphur  Springs — An  En- 
thusiastic Englishman — A  Superb  View — The  Bow  Valley — 
Ride  to  Devil's  Lake — The  Sunken  Lake — The  Scene  at 
Night. 


UR  train,  speeding  on  its  way  from  Phila- 
delphia to  Montreal,  lacked  no  detail  that 
could  add  to  the  comfort  and  luxury  of 
modern  travel.  The  interesting  panorama 
of  ever-changing  scenes  gave  the  mind  food  for 
reflection,  and,  while  the  body  sometimes  grew 
weary  of  the  ceaseless  motion  of  the  cars  and  the 

23 


24     Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

rumbling  noise  of  the  machinery,  many  beautiful 
pictures  were  stored  in  the  memory,  to  be  brought 
forth  and  rejoiced  in  again  on  a  future  day. 

Take  a  peep  through  the  window  of  your  sleeper 
as  you  lie  at  rest.  A  far-reaching  landscape,  bathed 
in  silvery  moonlight,  gleams  out  mistily  and  mys- 
teriously, with  a  vague  suggestiveness  that  haunts 
you  as  you  sink  back  into  drowsy  comfort,  with 
the  accompaniment  of  the  swiftly  moving  train,  and 
a  delightful  feeling  of  expectation  which  is  utterly 
beyond  expression.  Your  slumber  is  filled  with 
dreams  in  which  mingled  fact  and  fancy  weave 
glowing  pictures  that  thrill  you  even  in  your 
waking  hours.  When  again  you  part  the  curtain 
which  veils  these  fascinating  scenes,  behold  a 
magnificent  lake  has  spread  itself  out  before  you, 
shimmering  in  the  morning  sunbeams,  with  a 
mountain  background  glorified  by  the  rising  mon- 
arch of  the  day,  who  smilingly  unites  the  whole  in 
a  picture  of  exquisite  beauty  and  harmony. 

The  country  around  Montreal  is  rich  in  verdant 
fields  and  meadows,  with  bits  of  woodland  here 
and  there  between  the  substantial  and  comfortable 
looking  farmhouses.  At  St.  John's  Station,  twenty- 
five  miles  from  Montreal,  the  Custom  House  offi- 
cials inspect  your  baggage,  to  see  that  you  are  not 


From  Montreal  to  the  Rocky  Mountains    25* 

smuggling  whiskey,  tobacco,  etc.,  into  his  Majesty's 
dominions. 

Montreal  is  a  picturesque  old  town,  with  many 
interesting  associations  awakened  by  the  quaint 
architecture  and  French  names  which  greet  one  on 
the  pretty  narrow  streets.  Her  park  of  over  four 
hundred  acres  lies  on  the  summit  of  Mount  Royal, 
from  which  you  may  have  a  delightful  view  of 
the  St.  Lawrence  River  and  the  surrounding  coun- 
try. Her  cathedral  of  Notre  Dame  is  a  replica  of 
more  famous  places  of  worship  on  the  other  side  of 
the  Atlantic, 

The  city  is  built  on  terraces  rising  one  above 
the  other  from  the  bank  of  the  river.  Here  is 
found  a  strange  mixture  of  French,  English  and 
Irish  population.  Whether  the  Irishman  defers 
to  the  Frenchman,  or  the  Frenchman  to  the  Irish- 
man, or  both  to  the  Englishman,  I  did  not  try  to 
ascertain,  for  the  arousing  of  national  factions  b}/ 
indiscreet  questions  might  have  proved  fatal  to  the 
success  of  our  tour  of  sightseeing.  In  truth  the 
place  appeared  to  me  much  like  a  Scotch  city,  such 
as  Glasgow  on  a  small  scale.  At  the  time  of  our 
visit,  a  French  mayor  had  just  been  elected  to  serve 
his  second  term  of  three  years. 

We  left  the  borders  of  this  attractive  city  on  a 


26     Touring:  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 


'to 


lovely  June  day,  with  a  clear  sky  overhead,  and  a 
temperature  of  seventy-two  degrees.  As  we 
journeyed  westward,  a  rich  variety  of  beautiful 
color  tones  appeared  in  the  landscape,  softening  or 
deepening  into  every  shade  of  green  as  wheat, 
corn,  oats  or  rye  diversified  the  fields.  Evidences 
of  culture  abounded,  and  the  promise  of  a  full 
harvest  was  everywhere  apparent.  The  plain  is 
broicen  here  and  there  by  strips  of  forest  land 
whose  monarchs  look  down  from  lofty  heights 
upon  the  toil  and  fruition  of  man ;  perhaps  wonder- 
ingly,  since  to  them  nature  is  lavish  in  her  supplies, 
and  yet  "they  toil  not,  neither  do  they  spin."  We 
followed  the  charming  blue  stream  of  the  Alfred 
amid  a  succession  of  lovely  scenes  with  high  hills 
in  the  baci<ground.  The  old  homesteads,  mostly 
built  of  logs,  with  spacious  barns  close  by,  did  not 
impress  the  beholder  with  the  idea  of  extravagant 
expenditure,  but  they  bore  witness  to  thrift,  com- 
fort and  success;  and  in  their  generally  well 
ordered  atmosphere  seemed  to  demonstrate  the 
truth  of  the  old  and  trite  maxim:  "Heaven  helps 
those  who  help  themselves." 

Sawmills  were  scattered  freely  along  our  route, 
and  the  rivers  and  other  streams  over  which  the 
train  passed  were  filled  with  floating  logs  awaiting 


From  Montreal  to  the  Rocky  Mountains   29 

their  turn  to  be  ripped  up  and  transformed  into 
shapes  available  for  the  manufacturer  and  builder. 
Innumerable  fields  on  either  side  of  the  railway 
presented  every  stage  in  the  process  of  devastation, 
from  the  thinned  ranks  of  the  noble  standing  forest 
to  bare  stumps  and  burnt  roots,  or  piles  of  debris 
soon  to  be  carted  away  or  burnt  to  ashes  and 
scattered  over  the  soil.  So  civilization  moulds  the 
materials  at  her  command  into  almost  unrecog- 
nizable images,  and  everything  in  nature  must 
pay  tribute  to  the  great  Cxsar  whose  name  is 
progress. 

As  we  were  whirled  through  towns  and  villages 
we  were  cheered  by  scores  of  lively  boys  and  girls 
who  looked  healthy  and  well-cared  for.  And  well 
might  they  cheer!  The  "Imperial  Limited"  was 
a  masterpiece  of  modern  science  and  mechanism. 
Right  royally  he  swept  over  his  course,  drawing  in 
his  wake  nine  heavily  equipped  cars.  His  resonant 
voice  uttering  its  shrill  "000-000-00000,"  with  a 
fierce  threat  in  the  notes,  never  failed  to  clear  the 
track  of  every  living  being,  and  the  echoes  caught 
up  his  tones  and  spread  the  news  far  and  wide,  so 
that  all  the  wild  creatures  shivered  and  darted  into 
coverts  as  this  despot  of  the  road  flashed  like  a 
meteor  across  the  path,  to  disappear  as  suddenly, 


3©     Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

with  a  rush  and  a  whirr  that  seemed  to  shake  the 
universe. 

Quite  worthy  of  this  great  courser  was  the  man 
of  genius  who  ministered  to — his  Majesty  ?  Oh,  no 
— to  the  inferior  creatures  whom  he  deigned  to 
bear  as  witnesses  of  his  triumphal  passage.  Since 
"civilized  man  cannot  live  without  dining,"  surely 
next  in  importance  to  the  "  Imperial  Limited  "  him- 
self was  the  peerless  chef  whose  masterly  knowl- 
edge of  his  art  caused  the  hours  of  refreshment  for 
the  material  man  to  prove  a  delightful  break  in  the 
monotony  of  railway  travel.  His  talents  and  skill 
are,  however,  too  well  known  to  need  even  these 
few  words  of  praise  from  me. 

While  enjoying  the  numerous  courses  of  a  well- 
served  dinner,  our  conductor  appeared  with  a  tele- 
gram just  received,  announcing  the  destruction  by 
fire  of  the  bridge  spanning  the  Moose  River  at  Chap- 
lean  Station,  hence  all  passengers  must  leave  the 
train  at  that  point  with  their  baggage,  and  be  rowed 
in  small  boats  to  the  opposite  bank,  there  to  be 
transferred  to  special  cars.  The  transportation 
was  to  occur  at  about  four  o'clock  on  the  following 
morning.  A  pleasant  prospect  to  dream  over! 
However,  good  travellers  should  not  complain  of 
such  local  issues. 


From  Montreal  to  the  Rocky  Mountains    3 1 

From  Mattawa  there  was  a  change  in  the  face  of 
the  country:  the  flat  or  undulating  cultivated  fields 
gave  place  to  rocky  bluffs  and  mountain  ranges  ex- 
tending miles  along  either  side  of  the  track.  The 
farmhouses  were  more  scattered,  and  a  wild,  iso- 
lated region  surrounded  us.  The  descending  sun, 
however,  made  the  scene  resplendent  with  beauty. 
The  soft  grey  floating  clouds  became  brilliantly 
tinged  with  gold,  and  cast  glowing  reflections  upon 
the  distant  mountains,  while  the  twilight  sent  faint 
misty  shadows  over  the  whole  landscape  and 
mingled  its  violet  tone  with  the  radiant  glory  of  the 
sunset. 

In  the  early  morning  hours  all  the  travellers  were 
awakened  by  a  powerful  voice  shouting:  "  Chap- 
lean  Station!  All  passengers  alight  here,  carrying 
grips  and  other  hand  baggage."  This  was  no 
dream,  but  stern  reality.  Confusion  reigned  su- 
preme, as  bags,  bundles,  trunks  and  all  other 
portable  articles  were  hustled  out  of  the  cars  and  shot 
down  an  embankment  to  the  water's  edge.  We 
were  fully  three  hours  being  transported  to  the 
other  side  in  boats. 

This  at  length  accomplished,  with  accommoda- 
tions somewhat  less  comfortable  for  many  of  the 
passengers  than  before,  we  proceeded  on  our  way. 


32     Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

passing  through  miles  of  forest  which  seemed 
principally  a  second  growth,  with  much  underbrush. 
The  trees  were  mostly  pines  and  cedars.  We 
now  made  up  lost  time,  and  sent  forth  clouds  of 
white  steam  as  the  milestones  flew  by  in  rapid  suc- 
cession. 

The  rails  are  laid  on  great  stone  embank- 
ments, at  the  bases  of  which,  fully  a  hundred  feet 
below,  we  perceived  many  small  lakes.  We  felt  that 
we  were  leaving  civilization  behind  us  when  at 
Missanabie  Station  we  beheld  the  settlement  of  one 
of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company's  posts.  Indians,  cow- 
boys, and  some  women  sat  about  this  cluster  of 
small  frame  houses,  and  the  skins  of  various  ani- 
mals were  hanging  up  in  the  sun  to  dry.  From 
this  point  onward  we  saw  many  Indians,  generally 
in  citizen's  dress,  and  wearing  the  soft  black  hat 
"  a  la  Chinee." 

One  after  another,  mountain  ranges  came  into 
view.  Now  we  rushed  through  a  deep  tunnel, 
now,  poised  dizzily  aloft,  glided  over  tall  trestles, 
or  hugged  the  mountain-side  for  miles,  viewing 
with  delight  the  constantly  changing  panorama  of 
glistening  lake  and  river,  wonderfully  tinted  forest 
and  ravine. 

With  difficulty  I  clutched  the  guard  rail  with  one 


From  Montreal  to  the  Rocky  Mountains    35 

hand  and  my  camera  with  the  other,  taking  a  snap 
shot  here  and  there,  as  the  train  swung  recklessly 
over  the  road,  twisting  itself  into  every  conceivable 
angle. 

On  approaching  Fort  William  we  were  surprised 
to  see  three  large  elevators  and  a  line  of  empty  freight 
cars  on  the  side  track,  telling  of  the  transfer  of  grain 
to  boats  to  be  carried  eastward. 

The  city  looked  rather  imposing  from  the  station, 
with  its  parallel  lines  of  rails  stretching  miles  along 
those  iron  bound  shores.  The  distant  mountain 
skirting  the  horizon  of  Lake  Superior  is  called  the 
"  Sleeping  Giant,"  and  there  is,  it  is  said,  an  Indian 
legend  connected  with  the  name.  Who  knows 
what  ancient  Barbarossa  is  immortalized  here.^*  Or, 
is  this  only  a  repetition  of  the  old  myth  that  all  the 
mountains  are  the  tombs  of  sleeping  giants  who 
will  arise  some  day  and  reconquer  the  world  ? 

The  country  around  Fort  William  is  flat,  culti- 
vated, commonplace  and  uninteresting.  There  is  a 
gradual  rise  as  we  move  westward,  until  at  Bran- 
don, 1,557  miles  from  Montreal,  the  altitude  is  1,150 
feet.  Here  the  country  spreads  out  like  a  vast  gar- 
den under  careful  cultivation,  and  miles  of  wheat 
and  grass  refresh  the  eyes  of  the  traveller.  We 
found  the  air  balmy  and  filled  with  the  fragrance  of 


6     Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

newly  mown  hay.  In  this  region  the  true  Hfe  of 
the  ranchman  is  experienced:  houses  are  miles 
apart,  and  the  office  of  doctor,  butcher,  baker, 
everything,  is  rolled  up  in  one  personage — the  ranch- 
man himself.  The  expression  "a  vast  ocean  of 
land  "  has  been  fitly  applied  to  this  section  of  the 
country,  which  is  famous  as  a  wheat  producing 
district.  The  road  is  dusty  and  herds  of  wild  cattle 
roam  hither  and  thither  in  groups  of  from  fifty  to  a 
hundred. 

From  a  ranch  owner  on  the  train  we  learned  that 
land  on  either  side  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railroad 
is  worth  twenty  dollars  an  acre,  but  is  rarely  offered 
for  sale.  The  yield  of  wheat  averages  about  thirty 
bushels  to  the  acre,  and  the  price  at  Brandon  is 
sixty  cents  a  bushel,  net.  The  railroad  taxes  are 
two  cents  per  acre.  The  land  is  cultivated  from 
fifty  to  a  hundred  miles  back  from  the  road,  the 
farms  consisting  of  six  hundred  acres  or  more  each. 
Wheat  has  been  raised  for  fifteen  consecutive  years 
without  the  use  of  phosphates.  No  corn  is  planted, 
the  crops  being  generally  of  wheat,  oats  or  grass. 
Cowboys  have  full  charge  of  these  ranches,  under 
the  supervision  of  a  general  manager,  receiving  as 
wages,  food,  horses,  (without  saddles),  and  thirty 
dollars  a  month. 


From  Montreal  to  the  Rocky  Mountains   37 

As  evening  descends  over  this  vast  table-land, 
one's  thoughts  revert  to  the  days  when  the  red  man 
hunted  the  buffalo  and  other  wild  game  on  these 
plains,  and  as  the  dusky  gloom  magnifies  the  shad- 
ows of  a  group  of  bushes  on  an  embankment,  the 
blood  curdling  war  whoop  of  the  Indians  seems 
about  to  break  the  silence,  followed  by  the  shrill 
shriek  of  the  victim;  and  now  the  train  is  suddenly 
surrounded  by  merciless  savages,  tomahawk  in 
hand,  and,  oh  the  horror,  the  utter  helplessness  and 
terror  of  the  situation! 

The  brilliant  illumination  of  the  car  speedily  ban- 
ishes this  nightmare  of  the  past,  and  with  a  bound, 
your  spirit  leaps  forward  to  the  present,  with  a  new 
appreciation  of  the  security  and  enjoyment  of  the 
traveller  of  to-day.  Happy  days!  And  happy 
change!  I  wonder  if  the  spirit  of  the  Indian  chief 
has  progressed  with  the  years,  or  if  in  those  upper 
hunting  grounds  he  still  retains  that  cruel,  revenge- 
ful spirit  which  delights  in  ornaments  of  scalps, 
and  experiments  upon  the  endurance  of  his  victims 
by  fiery  ordeals  and  other  pitiless  forms  of  torture. 
Methinks,  however,  the  conditions  there  are  some- 
what different,  and  we  must  not  forget  that  here 
the  red  man  had  his  grievance. 

At  Qu'Appelle  Station,  1,738  miles  west  of  Mon- 


38     Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

treal,  we  reached  an  altitude  of  2,050  feet:  there  is 
a  gradual  elevation  from  here  to  Medicine  Hat,  a 
station  named  in  memory  of  an  old  Indian  medicine 
man:  from  this  point  it  falls  off  again  to  2,150  feet. 

in  this  region  are  some  lumber  lands,  and  the 
knolls  are  the  favorite  resort  of  vast  herds  of  cattle. 
Some  of  the  farms  are  of  great  extent:  one  of  1,200 
acres,  thoroughly  irrigated,  is  devoted  to  stock  rais- 
ing. Seven  thousand  cattle  and  five  hundred  horses 
are  not  uncommon  numbers  in  describing  the  pos- 
sessions of  these  wealthy  ranchmen.  Here  six 
thousand  sheep  are  raised  and  sheltered.  This  por- 
tion of  the  country  is  especially  adapted  for  the 
purpose:  the  grasses  are  rich  and  possess  great  at- 
traction for  the  cattle.  The  valleys  and  groves  of 
timber  provide  ample  shelter  at  all  seasons,  and  the 
numerous  streams  flowing  from  the  neighboring 
hills  afford  an  inexhaustible  supply  of  water. 

Again  we  began  to  ascend,  and  Calgary  Station 
found  us  at  an  elevation  of  3,388  feet.  The  air  was 
exhilarating  and  the  day  clear,  with  a  tempera- 
ture stimulating  enough  to  make  a  brisk  walk  en- 
joyable. How  healthy  the  people  appeared.  Rosy 
cheeks,  strong  bodies  and  an  active,  business-like 
manner  prevailed  everywhere.  At  Calgary  Station 
we  had  covered  2,264  miles  in  an  almost  straight 


From  Montreal  to  the  Rocky  Mountains  39 

line  from  Montreal.  This  is  an  English  settlement, 
and  we  were  informed  that  the  society  is  composed 
of  excellent  families,  who  are  not  unworthy  repre- 
sentatives of  the  best  classes  in  the  mother  country. 

At  Calgary  we  had  our  first  glimpse  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains  on  a  day  that  seemed  sent  from  heaven 
for  our  especial  benefit.  Far  in  the  distance  rose 
the  noble  peaks  whose  snowy  robes  and  silvery 
gleam  are  visible  for  miles.  Great  seams  in  the 
mountain-sides  appeared  filled  with  snow  almost 
to  the  base,  proclaiming  the  inexorable  reign  of 
winter  on  those  heights.  The  country  around  is 
hilly,  and  huge  boulders  imbedded  in  the  earth 
everywhere  tell  of  the  fierce  battle  of  the  giants  that 
raged  here  in  some  forgotten  age.  Groups  of  wig- 
wams were  visible  here  and  there  from  the  car 
windows,  and  occasional  glimpses  were  had  of  the 
sullen  face  and  stalwart  form  of  the  red  man,  gay  in 
his  many  colored  blanket  and  gorgeous  feathers, 
or  the  more  humble  figure  of  his  squaw  bending  in- 
dustriously over  her  bead  work  or  basket  making. 
These  tents,  although  by  no  means  attractive,  in 
consequence  of  a  great  dearth  of  cleanliness,  are  de- 
cidedly picturesque  and  break  the  monotony  of  the 
landscape  on  the  lower  levels. 

Farther    and    farther    into    nature's    heart    we 


40     Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

penetrated:  into  regions  of  ever  increasing 
beauty  and  grandeur.  The  gap  or  valley  through 
which  we  passed  presented  a  succession  of 
views  of  indescribable  magnificence.  We  whirled 
by  these  scenes  with  scarcely  time  to  appreciate 
one  before  another  burst  upon  us.  Huge  moun- 
tains towered  above  us  on  either  side,  and  the 
temperature  grew  colder,  the  air  more  invigorating 
and  refreshing.  The  verdure  in  the  valley  formed  a 
fairy  pageant,  and  the  green  trail  could  be  traced 
climbing  the  mountain-side  to  where  the  barren 
rocks  uttered  their  stern  edict:  "  Thus  far."  The 
various  tints  of  purple,  blue,  red,  white  and  umber 
formed  an  enchanting  combination  to  the  observing 
eye. 

At  the  feet  of  these  heights  large  streams  are 
formed  by  the  hundreds  of  springs  and  rivulets 
oozing  from  seams  and  hollows  in  the  sides  of 
the  mountains.  Sometimes  a  lovely  waterfall 
dances  gayly  down  upon  the  massive  boulders  be- 
low, and  the  misty  veil  thus  formed  flings  out  into 
the  sunbeams  a  glory  of  prismatic  hues.  Some- 
times a  wild  cataract  dashes  madly  over  the  rocks, 
sweeping  every  obstacle  out  of  its  way,  reckless  of 
aught  save  its  own  desire  to  reach  the  valley. 

The  sonorous  v/hislle  of  our  engine  was  caught 


From  Montreal  to  the  Rocky  Mountains   41 

up  by  the  echoes  and  carried  from  peak  to  peak, 
each  of  which  in  turn  lent  a  new  melody  to  its 
notes,  until  at  last  it  was  borne  far  away  beyond 
our  ken,  but  1  doubt  not  that  it  is  still  going  on, 
uttering  a  soft  musical  call  in  some  undiscovered 
country  where  the  lofty  summits  mistake  it  for  the 
sighing  of  the  wind  about  their  brows  as  they  stand 
in  solitary  state,  all  unconscious  of  the  existence  of 
that  puny  creature  called  man. 

As  our  road  mounted  higher  an  extra  wrap  was 
found  necessary,  and  now  the  majestic  peaks 
seemed  to  hasten  by  with  scarce  a  greeting  in  re- 
sponse to  our  ardent  exclamations  of  wonder  and 
delight. 

As  we  approached  Canmore,  we  found  the 
views  so  charming  that  we  longed  to  leave  the 
train  and  spend  at  least  a  week  in  exploring  its  hid- 
den beauties,  but  our  unsympathetic  engine  bore  us 
relentlessly  onward  without  a  pause.  We  passed  a 
number  of  tourists  at  the  various  stations,  and  some 
of  the  ladies  presented  a  very  picturesque  appear- 
ance in  their  mountain  suits:  one  in  particular  was 
so  charming  in  her  dress  of  Scotch  plaid,  that  1 
involuntarily  thought  of  the  Waverly  novels,  and 
felt  sure  that  Sir  Walter  Scott  could  have  had  no 
more  lovely  picture  in  his  mind  when  he  described 


42     Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

his  romantic  heroines,  than  that  of  this  young  girl 
as  she  stood  upon  a  grassy  knoll  near  the  station 
eagerly  watching  the  approach  of  the  train. 

How  our  great  iron  steed  puffed  and  strained 
under  the  weight  of  the  long  train  of  cars!  And 
every  moment  the  scenery  seemed  to  increase  in 
grandeur  and  beauty.  As  we  drew  near  Banff  we 
felt  that  we  were  entering  the  ideal  of  nature's  as- 
pirations. Here  we  had  our  first  glimpse  of  Cascade 
Mountain,  whose  noble  and  majestic  dome  pierces 
the  clear  blue  ether  at  an  elevation  of  9,796 
feet.  Its  snowy  summit  reflects  the  rays  of  the 
sun  with  startling  brilliance,  and  the  long  seams 
made  by  its  constantly  flowing  cascades  are  nearly 
filled  with  snow  and  ice  which  cast  forth  dazzling 
rainbow  lights  almost  to  the  base  of  the  mountain. 

As  we  pushed  farther  into  the  valley,  we  were  sur- 
rounded by  still  greater  grandeur:  1  can  compare 
this  magnificent  scene  only  to  the  rocket  winding 
its  serpentine  pathway  through  heavenly  space  until 
at  last  it  bursts,  and  all  the  upper  world  is  aglow 
with  sparkling  gems.  Banff  seems  to  be  the  cul- 
mination of  this  wonderful  experience,  for  here  we 
were  surrounded  by  the  master  work  of  the  Crea- 
tor. This  is  the  home  of  the  giants:  here  in  splen- 
did solitude  stand   the   aristocrats   of  nature,  and 


From  Montreal  to  the  Rocky  Mountains   45 

none  may  dispute  their  sovereign  rigiit  to  rule  the 
realm.  Here  are  Sulphur  Mountain,  8,000  feet  in 
height,  Goat  Range,  8,500  feet,  Rundle  Mountain, 
9,798  feet,  the  Three  Sisters,  9,704,  8,810,  and  8,860 
feet,  Fairholm,  9,275  feet,  Peechee,  9,585  feet,  Inglis- 
maldie,  9,685  feet,  the  Vermilion  and  Sanback 
Ranges  more  than  9,000  feet,  and  the  Bourgean 
Mountains  also  over  9,000  feet.  Is  it  strange  that  the 
brain  almost  reels  in  the  presence  of  a  glory  and 
grandeur  utterly  beyond  description.? 

As  the  conductor  shouted  the  simple  monosyllable 
"  Banff"  the  train  stopped,  and  the  man  to  whom 
our  thrilling  experiences  were  an  everyday  affair, 
with  an  impassive  countenance,  assisted  the  pas- 
sengers to  alight. 

"  The  palaces  of  Nature,  whose  vast  walls 
Have  pinnacled  in  clouds  their  snowy  scalps 
And  thron'd  eternity  in  icy  halls 
Of  cold  sublimity,  where  forms  and  falls 
The  avalanche — the  thunderbolt  of  snow ! — 
All  that  expands  the  spirit,  yet  appals, 
Gather  around  these  summits,  as  to  show 
How  earth  may  pierce  to  heaven,  yet  leave  vain  man  below," 

Banff  is  a  bewilderment — a  delight — a  paradise — 
the  centre  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Park,  situated  at 
an  elevation  of  4,500  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 


46    Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

In  the  guide  book  it  is  simply  mentioned  as: 
"Station  for  Rocky  Mountain  Park  and  the  Hot 
Springs;  a  medicinal  watering-place  and  pleasure 
resort."  It  is  well  known,  however,  that  this  park 
is  a  national  reservation,  twenty-six  miles  long  and 
ten  miles  wide,  estabHshed  by  the  Canadian  gov- 
ernment for  a  public  pleasure  ground  forever. 
This  wonderful  pleasure  ground  is  diversified  by 
rivers,  lakes,  cascades  and  waterfalls,  and  is  the 
very  heart  and  soul  of  the  Rockies.  No  region  in 
this  part  of  the  country  exhibits  a  greater  variety  of 
sublime  and  entrancing  scenery.  It  embraces  por- 
tions of  the  valleys  of  the  Bow,  Spray  and  Cascade 
rivers,  Devil's  Lake,  and  some  noble  mountain 
ranges;  and  nowhere  are  fine  points  of  view  and 
features  of  special  interest  more  accessible,  as  good 
roads  and  bridle  paths  lead  from  the  hotel  in  every 
direction. 

A  spacious  coach  drawn  by  four  strong  horses 
met  our  train  and  carried  passengers  and  baggage 
to  the  Banff  Springs  Hotel,  two  miles  distant.  This 
hotel  is  a  modern  structure,  perched  high  on  a  pin- 
nacle of  rock,  commanding  magnificent  views  of 
mountains  and  valleys.  It  is  a  haven  of  rest  to  the 
weary  traveller,  who  finds  here  not  only  com- 
fortable,  but    luxurious  apartments,   with   all  the 


From  Montreal  to  the  Rocky  Mountains   47 

conveniences  of  city  life.  It  is  owned  and  managed 
by  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  Company. 

Words  fail  in  attempting  to  describe  the  scenes 
that  meet  one  here.  You  gaze  in  silence  upon 
ice  bound  peak  and  flowing  river;  and  ever  new 
summits  claim  your  glance.  The  atmosphere  is 
so  clear  that  pyramid  and  glacier,  snow-capped 
spire  and  waterfall  gleam  forth  above  winding 
stream  and  forest  dark,  as  though  to  challenge  the 
admiration  of  the  world.  Here  too  is  sport  for 
hunter  and  fisherman.  Would  you  relax  a  little 
from  the  tension  caused  by  too  continuous  con- 
centration upon  the  majestic  scenes  around  you,  let 
the  porter  bring  you  a  hook  and  line;  walk  a  short 
distance  to  the  Spray  Falls,  cast  in  your  line,  and  in 
a  short  time  you  will  draw  forth  enough  fine  trout 
to  afford  a  sumptuous  supper  for  yourself  and 
friends. 

The  walks  about  the  hotel  are  all  delightful: 
guides  may  be  secured  to  conduct  a  party  over  the 
mountains.  These  men  are  perfectly  reliable,  many 
of  them  being  of  well-established  Swiss  and 
Canadian  reputation.  We  engaged  a  carriage  and 
trustworthy  driver,  whose  knowledge  of  road  and 
path  and  hidden  nook  was  all  that  could  be  desired. 
With  implicit  faith  we    yielded   ourselves  to  his 


48     Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

guidance;  now  coasting  the  mountain-side  along  a 
narrow  path  which  overlooked  the  valley,  and 
revelling  in  the  beautiful  effect  of  the  many  colors 
blending  with  the  clouds  that  suddenly  drooped 
curtain-like  over  the  lofty  peaks;  now  threading  the 
shadowy  forest  where  sparkling  water  courses  make 
sweet  musical  accompaniment  along  the  way,  but 
always  and  everywhere  in  the  midst  of  scenes  of 
rare  and  wondrous  beauty.  The  silence  of  the 
mountains  fell  upon  us,  and  a  gentle  rain  de- 
scended, softly,  as  though  the  atmosphere  were  too 
sacred  for  sound:  through  its  misty  veil  we  looked 
down  the  glistening  valley. 

"  Tears — floods  of  tears 
Lay  frozen  at  her  heart,  but  now  like  rills 
Let  loose  in  springtime  from  the  snowy  hills, 
And  gushing  warm,  after  a  sleep  of  frost, 
Through  valleys  where  their  flow  had  long  been  lost." 

We  found  the  temperature  quite  different  from 
that  of  our  eastern  cities:  at  times  the  mercury 
would  reach  fifty  degrees:  the  air  was  so  fresh  and 
exhilarating  that  it  could  not  fail  to  prove  beneficial 
to  the  health.  Sulphur  springs,  both  hot  and  cold, 
abound  in  these  regions,  and  there  are  good  bathing 
houses  on  the  Sulphur  Range,  6,000  feet  above  the 


From  Montreal  to  the  Rocky  Mountains   49 

sea.  The  water  is  considered  of  great  medicinal 
value. 

There  can  be  no  monotony  in  one's  stay  at  Banff, 
nor  is  there  any  necessity  for  the  making  of  plans 
for  the  day's  pleasure;  for  there  is  always  some- 
thing new  to  be  seen,  whether  one  simply  gazes 
from  the  window  or  wanders  in  the  grounds  about 
the  hotel.  The  scenes  are  ever  varying;  ever 
growing  more  wonderful  and  beautiful.  There  are 
many  favorite  drives  and  walks,  and  the  visitor 
could  spend  many  days  here,  finding  a  new  and 
unexpected  pleasure  in  every  hour.  An  enthusiastic 
Englishman,  who  had  been  exploring  this  region 
for  four  weeks  previous  to  our  arrival,  exhibited 
genuine  astonishment  upon  learning  that  we  had 
allowed  ourselves  only  four  days  in  this  enchanting 
spot. 

"What!  Four  days!"  he  exclaimed.  "I  have 
been  here  four  weeks,  and  yet  feel  that  I  am 
still  only  in  the  preface  of  one  of  the  grandest  of 
nature's  books.  You  Americans  are  so  rapid;  so 
restless  that  I  wonder  your  brains  do  not  become 
paralyzed  with  the  snap  shot  criticisms  you  make  of 
such  masterpieces  as  these." 

I  agreed  with  him,  saying  that  much  might  indeed 
be  written  of  these  magnificent  scenes,  but  that  I 


50     Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

could  merely  allude  to  them  in  common  with  many 
others  that  lay  along  a  journey  of  12,000  miles.  The 
windows  of  our  room  commanded  a  superb  view 
of  the  Bow  valley  and  the  beautiful  winding  river 
that  rushes  swiftly  down  from  its  source  in  the 
mountain  and  dashes  over  the  rocks  with  foam  and 
whirl  until  it  reaches  the  peaceful  bed  of  the  valley. 
Upon  one  side  towers  Rundle,  or  Razor  Back  Moun- 
tain, whose  nickname  fits  its  lofty  ridges  well. 
Upon  its  highest  peak  one  of  the  noted  Swiss 
guides  has  planted  a  spirl  or  gaff  on  the  extreme 
edge  of  the  precipice.  It  stands  there  as  the  repre- 
sentative of  a  feat  of  courage  and  daring,  as  well  as 
a  challenge  to  be  plucked  therefrom  by  one  as  fear- 
less as  himself. 

On  the  left  is  the  ever  beautiful,  defiant  Cascade 
Mountain,  whose  name  is  made  evident  by  the 
lofty  cataracts  dashing  down  its  sides,  through  its 
ravines,  and  over  precipices  and  crevasses.  In  the 
distance  may  be  seen  the  long  ranges  of  Inglismal- 
die  and  Mount  Peechee,  while  in  the  valley,  the 
picturesque,  winding  Bow  River  is  dotted  here  and 
there  with  islands  covered  with  trees  and  under- 
brush. 

Forests  extend  from  the  river  banks  as  far 
as  the  eye  can  see.    The  whole  picture  of  sky,  snow- 


Mountain  Road,  Near  Banff  Sec  page  48 


From  Montreal  to  the  Rocky  Mountains    53 

capped  mountains  with  their  hazy  blue  and  purple 
effect,  the  lovely  greens  and  other  hues  reflected  in 
the  shining  water,  the  dark  mysterious  forest;  all 
combined,  form  a  scene  of  unrivalled  charm  and 
beauty. 

Take  with  me  but  one  of  the  many  drives 
in  this  enchanted  country.  Our  destination  is 
Lake  Minnewanka  or  Devil's  Lake,  about  nine 
miles  from  the  hotel.  Our  road  is  through  the  val- 
ley amid  the  most  delightful  scenery — we  skirt  the 
base  of  Cascade  Mountain  and  follow  the  serpentine 
course  of  the  Devil's  Head  River,  at  times  ascend- 
ing a  grade  of  300  feet,  then  quickly  again  reaching 
the  leveL  We  pass  a  national  park  in  which  such 
game  as  elk,  bufifalos,  wild-cats  and  mountain  lions 
are  protected.  Sportsmen  are  allowed  to  hunt  in 
the  forests  and  on  the  hills.  This  is  the  experience: 
a  noble  fellow  will  be  caught  unaware — in  his  fright 
he  will  snort  and  whirl  about,  and  before  you  know 
it  he  is  off  like  the  wind. 

Noble  and  rugged,  the  Cascade  Mountain  looms 
up  before  us:  hardy  trees  make  patches  of  green  on 
its  slopes,  while  in  many  of  the  crevasses  the  snow 
reaches  almost  to  our  driveway.  A  sharp  turn,  and 
we  enter  Devil's  Head  Canon:  a  rustic  and  not  alto- 
gether safe  looking  bridge  spans  the  river  here. 


54     Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

Our  feelings  are  by  no  means  enviable  while  cross- 
ing this  bridge:  some  evil  little  imp  of  suggestion 
is  continually  whispering,  "Suppose  one  of  these 
planks  should  give  way,  or  one  of  the  horses  leap 
the  railing  (an  impossible  feat),  dragging  us  after 
him  into  the  boiling  waters  below!"  But  neither 
of  these  dire  events  transpires.  We  cross  in  safety, 
and  behold  a  scene  which  arouses  our  highest  ad- 
miration. Not  far  away  some  charred  trees  and 
stumps  tell  the  story  of  recent  fires  which  have  rav- 
aged the  country.  Beyond  us  Inglismaldie  Moun- 
tain rears  his  proud  head  like  a  giant  sentinel  above 
Lake  Minnewanka,  making  another  glorious  pic- 
ture. We  reach  the  sunken  lake  set  in  such  won- 
derful surroundings,  that  they  seem  like  the  rich 
frame  of  a  mirror;  so  calm  and  glassy  is  the  water, 
so  clear  the  reflections  of  the  magnificent  heights 
imaged  upon  its  surface.  Its  length  is  sixteen 
miles,  its  width  two,  and  it  lies  imbedded  so  deeply 
in  the  earth  that  its  banks  seem  to  rise  hundreds  of 
feet  above  its  crystal  depths.  At  the  lake  a  small 
cottage  offers  accommodations  to  tourists  who  wish 
to  try  the  excellent  trout  fishing,  or  climb  the 
neighboring  mountains. 

How  solemnly  the  giants  look  down  upon  their 
mighty  possessions!     How  sacred  seems  the  spot 


From  Montreal  to  the  Rocky  Mountains  £^ 

where  all  nature  pays  homage  to  their  grandeur  and 
dignity!  Their  closest  companions  are  of  the  upper 
world — the  clouds,  the  gales,  the  thunder  and  light- 
ning play  about  their  noble  peaks.  With  these  the 
mountains  hold  communion,  and  when  to  man  the 
elements  seem  waging  wild  and  furious  warfare, 
unto  the  giants  it  is  but  as  the  play  of  little  children. 
At  night  the  scene  is  one  of  awful  grandeur,  save 
when  the  moonbeams  bathe  the  heights  in  silvery 
splendor:  then  the  heart  of  the  romantic  beholder 
is  thrilled  by  the  gleaming  peaks  and  glittering  gla- 
ciers, and  strange  fancies  flit  through  his  brain:  he 
seems  to  hear  in  the  silent  night  faint  whispers 
from  the  mountain-tops,  as  though  the  monarchs 
and  the  gentle  moonbeams  have  secrets  together, 
which  they  sometimes  share  with  the  mysterious 
stars,  who  look  downward,  as  though  filled  with 
unspeakable  wisdom  and  sympathy. 

TO  THE  CASCADE  MOUNTAINS. 

Hail  noble  mountain,  lofty  and  sublime, 

Crowned  with  a  glory  of  eternal  snow 
Undimmed  forever  by  the  touch  of  time  ! 

I  pay  thee  homage  as  the  sunset  glow 
Unto  thy  brow  a  rich  effulgence  lends 

And  robes  thy  changing  hues  in  splendor  bright — 
And  when  the  shimmering  moonbeams  round  thee,  blend 

Thy  dome  majestic  with  a  heavenly  light, 


56     Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

And  all  thy  rainbow  colors  softly  fade, 

And  thy  form  gleams  a  shadowy,  misty  thing. 
More  beauteous  still — I,  in  the  lowly  glade, 

Look  up  and  worship  thee,  thou  giant  king. — 
Behold  the  gentle  Night  Queen  woos  thee  now — 

Veiled  in  her  silver  radiance,  she  descends — 
Her  dewy  kisses  press  thy  icy  brow — 

Her  garments  trail  about  thee  as  she  bends. 


And  thou  dost  suffer  her — and  for  a  space, 

Clasped  in  her  arms,  thy  sternness  disappears — 
And  thou  art  softened  into  fairy  grace — 

Ay  thou  art  lovely  while  she  lingers  near. — 
But  when  with  gifts  of  gold  the  day  draws  nigh, 

Cold  and  magnificent  thy  summit  towers — 
The  dreaming  shadows  that  around  thee  lie, 

Alone  bear  witness  of  those  midnight  hours. 


Among  the  Giants 


CHAPTER  II 

Among  the  Giants 

The  Banks  of  the  Bow  River — A  Bewildering  Group — Castle 
Mountain — Mountain  Lakes — Eldon  Station — Desolation  Val- 
ley—  Bald  Mountain  —  Weird  Shapes — Bowls  and  Pyra- 
mids— Up  the  Steep  Ascent — Laggan  Station — Time  goes 
Backward — Amid  Snow  and  Ice — The  Great  Divide — Wapta 
Rapids — Indescribable  Scenes — Kicking  Horse  Pass — Cas- 
cades— Field  Station — Mount  Stephen — Silver  Lead  Mine — 
The  Selkirks — Glaciers  and  Mountain  Streams — Any  Sign  of 
a  Grizzly  ? — The  Beautiful  Columbia — In  the  Canon — Tun- 
nels— A  Gloomy  Gorge — Beaver  Mouth  Station — Bear  Creek 
— Stony  Creek  Bridge — Travelling  through  Space — On  the 
Summit  —  Cedar  Creek  Bridge  —  Nature's  Utmost  —  Snow 
Sheds — Macdonald  and  the  Hermit — The  Great  Glacier — 
Sir  Donald. 

IDDING  farewell  to  Banff,  we  continued  our 
journey  westward.  Our  car  was  the  reg- 
ular tourist's  observation  car,  with  spa- 
cious windows  and  seats  placed  length- 
wise. Our  travelling  companions  were  pleasant 
and  social,  with  quick  perception  of  the  beauties  of 
nature  and  of  the  finest  points  along  the  route. 
Sometimes  we  passed  quite  close  to  the  banks  of 

59 


6o     Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

the  Bow  River:  recent  rains  had  clouded  the  pictur- 
esque stream,  and  we  missed  the  vivid  reflections 
of  mountain  and  forest  which  generally  lend  such 
a  charm  to  the  landscape.  The  views  on  every 
side  were  bewitching:  tall  pine  trees  added  their 
touch  of  green  to  the  mountain-sides,  and  sent 
spicy  odors  through  the  cool  air,  rendering  it  still 
more  exhilarating.  The  day  was  perfect,  and  the 
clear  blue  sky  over  our  heads  held  here  and  there 
soft  fleecy  clouds  that  cast  their  fluttering  shadows 
upon  hill  and  dale.  After  leaving  Cascade  Station, 
the  road  gradually  ascended,  and  one  stately  moun- 
tain followed  another,  each  seeming  more  beautiful 
than  the  last,  until  we  were  overpowered  by  the 
majesty  of  the  ever-changing  scenes,  and  words 
failed  us,  all  our  adjectives  proving  inadequate  to 
describe  the  grandeur  and  sublimity  around  us. 

On  our  right  rose  Castle  Mountain,  gigantic  and 
picturesque,  piercing  the  blue  ether  at  an  elevation 
of  five  thousand  feet.  In  close  succession,  peak 
after  peak  lifted  up  their  icy  summits:  Mount 
Bourgean,  Pilot  Mountain,  Copper  Mountain,  all 
more  than  nine  thousand  feet  above  the  level;  and 
following  these  were  nine  giants,  more  massive 
still,  who  overlook  all  their  neighbors.  Such  is 
Mount  Ball,  whose  pinnacle  gleams  with  prismatic 


Among  the  Giants  63 

hues  at  an  altitude  of  10,800  feet.  Lakes  of  consid- 
erable magnitude  are  visible  upon  the  sides  of  many 
of  these  mountains,  and  hotels  and  cottages  are 
built  on  the  plateaus:  here  tourists  may  rest  after 
their  journeys,  or  explore  this  wonderful  realm  of 
the  giants  at  will. 

At  Eldon  Station  we  reached  an  altitude  of  4,720 
feet.  On  our  left  appeared  a  beautiful  hollow, 
called  Desolation  Valley.  I  wondered  at  the  name, 
for  the  valley  is  green  and  picturesque,  but  none  of 
our  fellow-passengers  could  enlighten  me  on  this 
point.  Now  we  seemed  to  have  reached  the  great- 
est of  all  Nature's  ambitious  efforts:  on  our  left 
towered  majestic  Bald  Mountain,  whose  topmost 
peaks  are  composed  of  huge  glaciers  of  gleaming 
emerald  hue,  telling  of  solid  masses  of  ice:  here 
Mount  Temple,  11,658  feet,  Mount  Pinnacle,  10,500 
feet,  Mt.  Delta,  Lefroy,  11,370  feet.  Goat,  Saddle, 
Sheol,  Hagel,  Mitre,  Beehive,  White,  Prim,  and 
numberless  others  raise  their  snowy  heads  up- 
wards, thousands  of  feet  above  the  plain,  and  form 
a  wonderful  picture  whose  grandeur  and  beauty 
may  never  be  forgotten. 

Strange  and  weird  are  the  shapes  some  of  these 
giants  choose  to  assume — or  is  it  the  genii  who 
compel  them  ?    Here  one  appears  as  great  rows  of 


64     Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

enormous  teeth — poor  giant!  Was  it  the  helpless- 
ness of  impotent  rage  thus  immortalized  ?  Here 
massive  bowls  wait  to  catch  the  nectar  which  falls 
from  heaven:  vast  amphitheatres  hold  invisible 
audiences  who  listen  to  marvellous  symphonies,  in- 
audible to  mortal  ears — here  pyramids  formed  by  a 
hand  greater  than  that  of  man  defy  time  and  the 
elements.  Silent  are  all  these  immeasurable  spaces 
— silent  the  enchanted  monarchs,  dreaming  perhaps 
of  other  days — and  in  reverent  silence  we  greet 
them,  mentally  bowing  ourselves  to  the  dust  before 
them.  Silently  we  leave  them  in  their  solitary 
grandeur.  They  receive  our  obeisance,  but  vouch- 
safe no  sign. 

It  was  no  light  task  to  draw  the  long  train  of 
cars  up  the  steep  ascent,  but  our  iron  steed  was 
equal  to  the  occasion,  and  at  last  we  reached 
Laggan  Station,  at  an  elevation  of  4,930  feet. 

At  this  station,  the  terminus  of  the  Western  Di- 
vision, time  goes  back  one  hour,  to  conform  with 
the  Pacific  standard. 

Shortly  after  leaving  Laggan,  we  bade  farewell  to 
the  picturesque  winding  Bow  River,  as  we  con- 
tinued our  westerly  course  to  Stephen  Station,  at 
which  point  the  greatest  altitude  of  the  railway  in 
this  section  is  reached — 5,296  feet. 


Among  the  Giants  65 

Two  miles  farther  on  we  found  ourselves  at 
Hector  Station,  on  the  summit  of  the  mountain 
from  which  it  takes  its  name.  What  magnificent 
views  greeted  us  here!  Snow-capped  mountains 
still  lifted  their  heads  above  us,  and  snow  and  ice 
surrounded  us.  Isolated,  lonely,  wild  and  cheer- 
less, this  lofty  region  depresses  the  spirits.  At  this 
station  a  large  powerful  engine  was  attached  to  our 
train,  in  addition  to  our  already  well  tested  iron 
steed,  and  thus  with  an  engine  at  each  end,  the 
long  line  of  nine  coaches  made  the  descent  of  two 
thousar»d  feet.  We  moved  very  slowly  at  first, 
then  gradually  faster  and  faster,  until  we  began  to 
fear  that  our  brave  and  trusty  charioteers  had  for- 
gotten their  charge. 

Now  we  approach  the  "Great  Divide"  and  here 
perceive  the  clear  stream  fed  by  the  snows  on  the 
summit,  suddenly  separate  into  two  crystal  rivers; 
one  flowing  to  the  right,  joins  the  waters  which 
empty  into  Hudson  Bay,  while  the  other  turning  to 
the  left,  finds  its  way  to  the  Columbia  River,  and 
thence  to  the  Pacific  Ocean.  It  is  impossible  to 
give  an  idea  of  the  almost  terrible  beauty  of  the 
scene  at  this  point,  as  we  cross  the  wild  cafion  in 
which  the  Wapta  or  Kicking  Horse  River  foams 
and  churns  itself  into  a  mad  torrent  dashing  itself 


66     Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

against  the  sides  of  the  narrow  pass  a  thousand  feet 
below.  It  fills  one  with  awe  to  gaze  down  into 
this  gorge,  and  hear  the  roaring,  boiling  waters 
pitching  and  tossing  in  their  desperate  leaps  to  free 
themselves  from  the  hated  bondage  of  the  rocks, 
and  one  has  a  feeling  of  sympathy  and  relief  when 
at  last  the  fearful  struggle  is  over,  and  the  rebellious 
rapids  fall  exhausted  into  the  peaceful  bed  of  a  calm 
and  tranquil  river. 

Great  boulders  are  poised  on  the  edge  of  the 
precipice,  with  a  hold  apparently  so  slight  that  at 
any  moment  they  may  come  crashing  down  with 
stupendous  force  into  the  pass  below.  Incompar- 
ably grand  and  magnificent  are  the  scenes  around 
us — and  utterly  indescribable.  The  ardent  tourist 
drops  his  pencil  and  note-book  and  gazes  spell- 
bound upon  the  swiftly  moving  panorama  which 
his  eyes  can  scarcely  follow.  The  photographer 
mechanically  adjusts  his  plate  holders  and  shutter, 
without  an  attempt  to  focus  any  especial  point, 
glad  to  bring  away  any  one  of  these  thrilling 
views — realizing  only  that  everything  is  beautiful — 
everything  picturesque — everything  wonderful,  as 
far  as  the  eye  can  see.  If  he  is  fortunate  enough  to 
make  a  "snap  shot"  between  the  rapidly  passing 


Among  the  Giants  67 

telegraph  poles,  there  can  be  no  doubt  of  the 
artistic  value  of  the  prize. 

The  apparent  recklessness  of  the  engineers  ex- 
cited our  astonishment,  as  they  sped  the  train  along 
at  the  rate  of  twenty  or  twenty-five  miles  an  hour, 
meeting  the  numberless  sudden  curves  with  cool 
nerves  and  the  utmost  confidence.  Many  times  it 
seemed  that  we  must  all  be  pitched  headlong  down 
into  that  boiling  abyss,  that  frightful  torrent, 
while  the  run  was  made  along  the  Kicking  Horse 
Pass.  The  clouds  at  this  point  hung  in  groups  over 
the  clustered  peaks,  whose  snowy  pinnacles  formed 
an  enchanting  picture. 

We  passed  through  miles  of  burnt  forests  on  the 
mountain  slopes;  while  the  numberless  cascades 
wound  their  way  like  silver  threads  from  all  points, 
and  at  last  fell  hundreds  of  feet  in  sparkling 
showers  to  the  plains  below.  All  fears  of  accident 
vanished  when  we  reached  Field  Station,  at  an 
altitude  of  4,050  feet.  As  we  approached  the  pic- 
turesque station,  we  beheld  an  enormous  mountain 
looming  straight  up  before  us,  and  supporting  al- 
most on  the  edge  of  a  steep  precipice  a  massive 
glacier,  eight  hundred  feet  in  thickness,  green 
and  glistening  in  the  sunlight.  This  was  Mount 
Stephen,  rising  8,000  feet  above  the  valley,  a  stu- 


68     Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

pendous  spectacle,  and  1  could  but  stand  and  gaze 
upon  it,  unheeding  the  repeated  calls  of  friends  to 
go  to  luncheon:  this  seemed  no  time  or  place  for 

"  The  clang  of  plates,  of  knife  and  fork, 
That  merciless  fell,  like  tomahawks,  to  work." 

Scenes  like  these  are  the  "white  stones "  of  a  life- 
time. About  two  thousand  five  hundred  feet 
above  the  valley,  on  the  side  of  this  mountain,  most 
picturesque  and  magnificent,  a  small  house  may  be 
seen,  with  a  tunnel  close  by.  This  is,  we  learned, 
a  silver  mine,  whose  owners,  it  would  seem,  need 
have  no  fear  of  tramps  or  thieves,  for  the  narrow 
road  leading  to  it  is  perilous  enough  to  deter  the 
most  hardy  villain  from  the  attempt. 

One  never  grows  weary  of  contemplating  these 
gigantic  mountains,  and  for  those  wishing  to  make 
the  ascent,  there  are  always  reliable  guides.  This 
is  a  popular  station,  providing  good  accommoda- 
tions for  tourists  or  more  permanent  guests.  The 
grounds  have  been  embellished  with  fountains  and 
artistic  flower  beds,  and  present  an  attractive  ap- 
pearance. Shortly  after  leaving  this  section,  we 
came  within  sight  of  the  famous  Selkirk  Range. 
These  mountains  are  no  less  grand  and  picturesque 
than  the  Rockies.     As  we  steam  along,  their  giant 


DtviL's  Head  Canon,  Meak  Lake  IVIi.nnewa.nka 

Sec  page  53 


Among  the  Giants  71 

forms  rise  up  massive  and  lofty  on  every  side. 
Glaciers  and  mirror  like  lakes  glitter  like  great 
jewels  upon  their  slopes,  and  ever  as  in  a  kaleido- 
scope, the  harmonies  of  color  present  different  ef- 
fects in  the  glowing  sunlight  or  beneath  the  varying 
shadows  of  the  clouds  idly  floating  over  their 
heads. 

Now  the  silence  is  broken  by  the  crash  of  a 
glacier  which  has  edged  its  way  too  close  to  the 
steep  precipice  over  which  it  leans.  Now  a  rushing 
torrent  bids  us  watch  its  course  over  bushes  and 
stones,  laughing  in  the  sunlight,  darkling  in  the 
shadow,  whirling  over  our  heads,  vanishing  be- 
neath our  feet,  then  dancing  away  arm  in  arm  with 
a  comrade  to  hide  in  the  forest,  and  bursting  forth 
afar  off  with  mirthful  mocking  voice  that  grows 
fainter  and  fainter  as  restraining  its  wild  exuberance 
it  falls  into  the  decorum  of  life  in  the  valley.  We 
never  weary  of  gazing  about  us  —  never  cease 
wondering  at  the  awful  summits  that  rise  above  us, 
or  the  huge  glaciers  lying  along  the  gaps  and 
crevasses,  as  though  waiting — waiting,  like  the  en- 
chanted princess,  for  the  hand  of  the  deliverer. 
Alas,  will  he  ever  come  ?  We  watch  closely,  look- 
ing through  our  field-glasses  for  any  sign  of  a 
"grizzly,"  or  one  of  the  deer  family,  out  sunning 


72     Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

himself,  or  in  quest  of  food,  and  at  times  fancy  we 
see  something  that  resembles  an  animal,  but  so 
rapidly  are  we  borne  along  that  the  whole  picture 
is  a  thing  of  the  past  before  we  have  determined 
whether  the  object  half  hidden  in  the  ravine  is  a 
wild  creature  of  the  forest,  a  clump  of  bushes,  or 
only  a  dense  shadow  cast  by  the  overhanging 
foliage. 

The  grade  of  the  road  is  constantly  changing, 
now  making  a  steep  ascent,  now  as  sharp  a  down- 
ward sweep;  in  many  places  where  the  road  de- 
scends, switches  are  placed  at  intervals  along  the 
main  line,  running  up  the  mountain-side  perhaps  a 
thousand  feet — so  that  should  the  train  become  un- 
manageable, or  be  in  danger  of  accident,  the  engi- 
neer can  turn  it  upon  one  of  these  ascending 
switches,  when  the  train  would  be  unable  to 
proceed. 

Innumerable  lakes,  rivers  and  other  streams  flow 
along  the  base  of  the  mountains,  fed  by  the  cas- 
cades continually  rushing  over  the  slopes.  There  is 
more  verdure  and  less  burnt  woodland  visible  on 
the  Selkirk  Range  than  on  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
The  eyes  are  rested  and  the  brain  refreshed  by  these 
green  forests. 

We  follow  the  Wapta,  or  Kicking  Horse  River 


Among  the  Giants  73 

for  miles,  as  it  foams  and  dashes  along  between  its 
narrow  walls  until  at  last  it  meets  calmness  and  rest 
in  the  arms  of  the  beautiful  Columbia.  Now  we 
enter  a  gorgeous  canon;  the  sky  is  shut  out  by 
giant  pines,  and  here  we  too  seem  to  be  a  part  of 
the  wonderful  pageant.  In  and  out  we  thread  our 
way,  through  dense  ravines  or  over  velvety  lawns, 
still  skirting  the  Columbia  River.  The  canon 
deepens,  and  the  mountain-sides  become  vertical, 
falling  thousands  of  feet  in  an  almost  straight  line 
below  us.  Down  this  fearful  declivity  our  train 
rushes  at  the  rate  of  twenty-five  miles  an  hour,  and 
on  the  very  edge  of  the  precipice.  We  hold  our 
breath  in  terror,  and  for  some  seconds  the  wonder- 
ful views  of  valley  and  stream  are  rivaled  by  the 
possibility  of  what  might  happen  so  easily  were  our 
engineer  a  little  less  perfectly  master  of  the  situa- 
tion. Occasionally  the  whistle  sounds  its  note  of 
warning,  long  and  shrill,  to  be  repeated  mockingly 
by  the  myriads  of  demons  who  haunt  these  regions. 
At  times  we  glance  ahead  through  the  car  window. 
Great  boulders  apparently  block  the  way — suddenly 
the  daylight  disappears,  and  we  are  passing  through 
a  tunnel  cut  in  the  solid  wall  of  granite  which 
slopes  to  the  very  edge  of  the  river. 
Now  we  enter  a  gloomy  gorge,  with  the  sounds 


74     Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

of  a  roaring  cataract  in  the  depths  below  us.  In 
consequence  of  recent  rains  the  rapids  here  are 
eight  feet  higher  than  usual.  It  is  so  dark  that  the 
most  enthusiastic  photographer  could  not  capture 
this  view  of  towering  walls  and  foaming  waters. 

Suddenly,  as  if  by  magic,  daylight  bursts  upon 
us,  and  all  nature  is  aglow  with  sunlight  and  color. 
A  beautiful  scene  is  before  us.  The  broad  Colum- 
bia lies  at  our  feet,  with  the  lofty  Selkirk  Mountains 
for  a  background.  Peak  after  peak  stands  forth 
with  indescribable  effect,  as  though  vying  with 
each  other  in  their  efforts  to  reach  heaven's  dome. 

The  road-bed  over  which  we  are  travelling  is  of 
perfect  construction,  but  so  swift  and  unexpected 
are  the  turns,  so  serpentine  the  twisting  of  the 
train,  that  some  ingenuity  is  required  to  circumvent 
the  powers  that  rule,  in  their  evident  desire  to  com- 
pel us  to  change  our  position  momentarily.  The 
conductor  assures  us  that  excellent  fish  may  be 
caught  in  this  river.  Its  depths  surge  and  boil  as 
though  threatening  to  engulf  the  adventurous 
sportsman  who  would  dare  make  pastime  of  its 
angry  current,  and  yet  here  and  there  shallow  places 
seem  to  offer  a  foothold  to  the  ardent  angler.  But 
they  are  not  for  us. 

We    have    followed    the   picturesque   Columbia 


Among  the  Giants  75 

through  many  and  devious  ways;  she  has  led  us 
through  wild  gorges  and  ravines,  and  along  most 
perilous  passes,  and  we  have  always  looked  upon 
her  face  with  gladness,  so  it  is  almost  with  sorrow 
that  we  turn  away  from  her  at  Beaver  Mouth  Sta- 
tion ;  but  travellers  are  fickle  folk,  they  hardly  are 
"off  with  the  old  love  before  they  are  on  with  the 
new;  "  and  lo  at  his  altitude  of  2,500  feet  we  find 
another  charming  river  guide  beckoning  to  us — the 
Beaver,  a  wild,  rapid  stream,  rushing  along  and 
chafing  in  its  deep  and  narrow  gorge  and  leaping 
madly  against  the  sides  of  its  prison  in  its  haste  to 
pass  through  this  stage  of  its  existence.  Pictur- 
esque and  beautiful,  cliff  and  mountain  gleam  forth 
in  glowing  colors,  blending  themselves  into  a  har- 
monious whole  which  makes  a  lasting  impression 
on  the  memory.  In  this  isolated  spot  one  might 
easily  find  enough  studies  for  brush  or  pen  to  oc- 
cupy a  lifetime. 

From  Beaver  Mouth  Station  our  road  wound  up- 
ward over  the  mountain  slopes  until  at  Bear  Creek 
we  reached  an  altitude  of  3,500  feet.  At  some 
points  it  seemed  almost  impossible  to  make  the 
ascent  before  us,  but  the  greatest  experts  and  the 
most  powerful  engines  of  the  C.  P.  R.  R.  are  em- 
ployed   here,  and   so   we   rose  higher  and  higher 


76     Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

along  the  mountain-side.  The  river  below  grew 
fainter  and  narrower,  until  only  a  thread  like  streak 
of  silver  made  delicate  tracery  hither  and  thither, 
twisting  and  turning  through  the  green  forests  and 
walled  in  canon  a  thousand  feet  below,  until  it 
finally  disappeared  altogether. 

Our  conductor,  a  genial  man,  gave  us  much  in- 
teresting information;  more  indeed  than  one  could 
write  down  or  remember. 

As  we  advanced  we  penetrated  tall  and  stately 
forests,  and  crossed  the  paths  of  mad  cataracts  tear- 
ing down  the  mountain-sides  with  trains  of  timber 
ofttimes  in  their  wake,  rising  and  falling,  pitching 
and  tossing  as  they  swept  by. 

Far  and  near,  the  mountain  ranges  ever  kept 
company  with  us,  and  the  succession  of  views  was 
altogether  beyond  description. 

Now  we  passed  over  one  of  the  cascades  by 
means  of  the  bridge  that  spans  the  boisterous 
Stony  Creek.  This  is  the  loftiest  bridge  upon  the 
Canadian  Railroad  system,  and  I  have  heard  it 
stated  that  it  is  the  highest  timber  railing  bridge  in 
the  world.  It  is  three  hundred  feet  in  height  and 
four  hundred  and  fifty  feet  long. 

As  we  sweep  over  this  iron  frame,  poised  at  a 
dizzy  height,  for  the  valley  is  still  a  thousand  feet 


Among  the  Giants  77 

below,  we  feel  as  though  we  are  travelling  through 
space,  and  all  our  surroundings  seem  unreal  and 
visionary.  We  now  attach  two  extra  engines,  for 
there  is  some  stiff  climbing  to  be  accomplished. 
These  great  iron  monsters  look  equal  to  all  that 
is  required  of  them. 

The  eastern  slope  of  the  Selkirks  is  visible,  glow- 
ing and  magnificent,  while  below  us  the  charming 
Beaver  River  wanders  through  the  picturesque 
valley.  Onward  we  go,  over  many  bridges  cross- 
ing deep  chasms  or  foaming  cascades  until  we 
find  ourselves  speeding  along  the  summit  of  the 
mountain,  having  gradually  ascended  until  we  have 
reached  an  elevation  of  four  thousand  three  hun- 
dred feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  fifteen 
hundred  feet  above  the  valley. 

As  v/e  cross  Cedar  Creek  Bridge  the  scene  around 
us  is  unsurpassed  in  beauty  and  sublimity  by  any- 
thing we  have  yet  experienced. 

Even  at  this  height  the  snow-clad  peaks  seem  to 
tower  over  us  in  greater  immensity  than  before. 
Glancing  downward,  a  boiling  torrent  rages  far, 
far  below.  The  heavens  and  the  mountain  crests 
commune  in  silence.  And  no  words  are  ours.  We 
pay  the  highest  tribute  in  our  power  to  the  lofty 
and  sublime. 


78     Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

The  Selkiiks  form  the  background  of  this  won- 
derful picture,  and  as  we  gaze  upon  this  new  race 
of  giants,  we  feel  that  Nature  can  do  no  more;  that 
here  indeed  she  has  attained  the  height  of  her  mag- 
nificence. We  have  ascended  the  mountain  by  a 
circuitous  path,  covering  a  distance  of  forty  miles: 
but  a  direct  line  from  this  point  to  Golden  Station 
would  measure  but  eight  miles.  A  vast  ravine  is 
before  us,  and  the  stately  Mount  Macdonald  on  one 
side  and  the  Hermit  on  the  other,  stand  guard  over 
the  narrow  entrance  to  Rogers'  Pass,  and  exhibit 
their  shining  green  glaciers  as  signs  that  perpetual 
winter  reigns  in  these  realms.  A  rocky  shape  on 
the  edge  of  the  precipice,  resembling  the  form  of  a 
cowled  monk  with  his  dog,  has  given  to  the  Her- 
mit Mountain  its  name. 

Immense  snow  sheds  have  been  constructed  at 
intervals  along  the  western  slopes  of  these  moun- 
tains, some  a  half  mile,  others  a  mile  in  width. 
These  sheds  are  built  of  "heavy  squared  cedar 
timber,  dove-tailed  and  bolted  together,  backed 
with  rock,  and  fitted  into  the  mountain-sides  in 
such  a  manner  as  to  bid  defiance  to  the  most  terrific 
avalanche"  and  the  mighty  gales  which  sweep 
these  latitudes  in  winter.  Some  of  the  avalanches 
deposit  banks  of  sixty  feet  of  ice  and  snow  upon 


Kicking  Horsk  Pass 


Sec  page  65 


Among  the  Giants  81 

ihese  sheds;  snow  frequently  falls  to  a  depth  of 
eight  feet,  the  total  for  a  season  averaging,  it  is 
stated,  from  fifty  to  sixty  feet. 

Now  and  then  we  are  startled  by  the  roar  of  a 
mighty  cataract  as  it  rushes  over  rocks  and  snow. 
We  are  gradually  descending  and  soon  reach  Glacier 
Station,  at  an  altitude  of  4, 122  feet. 

Many  pleasant  acquaintances  have  been  made  as 
we  together  viewed  these  wonderful  scenes:  among 
these  were  two  ladies  from  Boston,  who  had  en- 
joyed the  journey  from  Banff  to  Seattle  so  much 
that,  after  making  the  entire  trip  as  originally 
planned,  but  a  fortnight  since,  they  are  repeating 
this  part  of  their  route. 

We  reached  Glacier  House  towards  evening.  The 
light  fall  of  rain  did  not  affect  the  majestic  pictures 
which  surrounded  us.  The  Great  Glacier  is  a  vast 
plateau  of  glistening  ice,  a  mile  and  a  half  from 
the  hotel.  It  is  estimated  that  this  enormous  mass 
measures  from  three  to  five  miles  in  width  on  the 
surface,  and  extends  many  miles  backward,  having 
a  thickness  of  fully  fifteen  hundred  feet. 

Notices  are  posted  at  the  station,  stating  that 
reliable  Swiss  guides  may  be  engaged  by  tourists 
wishing  to  make  the  ascent  of  the  Glacier.  On  the 
left  of  this   stupendous  block  the  loftiest  moun- 


82     Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

tain  of  the  Selkirk  Range,  Sir  Donald,  pierces  the 
heavens  eight  thousand  feet  above  the  valley.  This 
mountain  is  named  in  honor  of  Sir  Donald  Smith, 
one  of  the  chief  of  the  little  band  of  brave  and 
unfaltering  spirits  to  whom  the  Canadian  Pacific 
Railway  owes  its  existence.  Sir  Donald,  the  father 
of  the  wonderful  Glacier,  is  a  barren,  though  ma- 
jestic pyramid  whose  icy  peak  has  never  been 
reached  by  foot  of  man. 

Notwithstanding  the  many  rewards  that  have 
been  offered  to  adventurous  climbers,  this  moun- 
tain has  proved  inaccessible. 

Other  enormous  heights,  second  only  to  Sir  Don- 
ald, almost  surround  the  Glacier:  beyond  is  a  snowy 
mountain  called  "Grizzly,"  from  the  number  of 
bears  encountered  on  its  slopes.  Here,  vast  and 
magnificent,  stands  Cheops,  father  of  the  Pyramids. 
Well  named  art  thou,  great  giant,  and  as  worthy  of 
royal  immortality  as  thy  monumental  tombs!  Ross 
Peak  looks  down  from  under  its  snowy  mantle,  and 
on  the  glance  is  drawn  from  summit  to  summit  till 
the  shapes  are  lost  in  the  veil  of  distance,  and  only 
the  whiteness  of  the  winter  robes  shimmers  and 
glistens  on  the  far-off  heights.  Summer  is  a  half- 
forgotten  dream,  or  perhaps  it  never  existed  in  this 
region. 


Among  the  Giants  83 

We  are  compelled  to  don  heavy  overcoats  and 
gloves  here. 

We  learn  that  there  is  as  good  sport  hereabout  as 
one  may  desire:  the  guides  will  scare  up  one  or  two 
"silver  tails,"  and  give  a  taste  of  adventure  to  either 
the  novice  or  experienced  huntsman. 


From  the  Mountains  to  the  Sea 


CHAPTER  III 
From  the  Moantatns  to  the  Sea 

A  Welcome  Delay — The  Loop — An  Early  Morning  View — A  Deep 
Canon  —  Hotels — Revelstoke — Kamloops  Lake — Villagers — 
Valley  of  the  Thompson  River — Black  Canon — Landslides — 
Old  Government  Road — Thompson  Canon — Color  Harmo- 
nies— Fantastic  Shapes — Lytton — The  Fraser — A  Fearful 
Ravine — Frazer  Canon — Gorgeous  Hues — Hell  Gate — Hope 
Station — Devil's  Lake — Silver  Ore — Mission  Junction — Mount 
Baker — Dealers  in  Flesh  and  Blood — Chinese  Labor — A 
Ghostly  Vehicle — Rest — Vancouver — A  City  of  Wonderful 
Growth — A  Vast  Forest — Clearings — United  States  Customs — 
Seattle — Roads — Shops  —  Hilly  Streets  —  Harbor  —  Natural 
Advantages — The  Steamship  "  Queen  " — Fair  Prospects — 
Brief  History  of  Alaska. 

UCH  to  my  delight  a  despatch  arrived  to 
the  effect  that,  in  consequenceof  a  wash- 
out on  our  line,  the  train  would  be  de- 
tained here  for  several  hours.  1  hoped 
the  delay  would  continue  till  morning,  that  we  might 
see  this  beautiful  region  by  daylight,  for  I  knew 
that  we  were  in  the  midst  of  royal  scenery.  Hour 
after  hour  passed,  and  still  no  orders  to  move  were 
issued:  at  last  the  news  came  that  we  would  not  be 

87 


88     Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

able  to  start  before  morning.  Some  of  the  passen- 
gers were  disturbed  by  tiiis,  but  it  was  a  joy  to  me. 
At  five  o'clock  in  the  morning  we  began  to  move, 
and  we  were  all  at  our  accustomed  windows  in  the 
observation  car,  straining  our  eyes  to  catch  each 
point  of  interest  along  the  way.  As  we  wound 
along  the  mountain-side,  we  came  upon  what  is 
called  the  Loop.  Here  the  railroad  is  run  in  huge 
curves  or  loops  all  over  the  mountain,  and  as  we 
describe  these  lines,  our  train  seems  to  cut  some 
strange  figures,  turning  and  twisting  hither  and 
thither,  first  in  one  direction,  then  doubling  back 
upon  itself,  sweeping  away  to  the  other  side,  cross- 
ing again  from  right  to  left,  then  from  left  to  right, 
and  finally,  as  though  nothing  out  of  the  way  had 
happened,  quietly  resuming  its  original  course,  ap- 
parently innocent  of  any  wild  or  erratic  impulse.  In 
these  meanderings  we  have  crossed  the  valley  lead- 
ing down  from  the  Ross  Peak  Glacier,  touched  the 
base  of  this  peak,  doubled  to  the  right  a  mile  or 
more,  then  swept  around  to  the  left,  touching 
Cougar  Mount  on  the  other  side  of  the  Illicilliwaet, 
crossed  once  more  to  the  left,  and  at  last  shot  down 
the  valley  parallel  with  our  former  course.  And 
thus  we  made  the  Loop.  From  our  car  windows 
we  could  see  the  four  parallel  tracks  in  their  relative 


From  the  Mountains  to  the  Sea       89 

positions,  one  below  the  other,  and  as  we  wound  to 
and  fro,  a  new  and  apparently  more  beautiful  view 
presented  itself  from  each  point. 

The  panorama  from  Glacier  House  onward  was 
extremely  fine:  the  combination  of  river,  lake, 
ravine  and  caiion  with  lofty  summits  and  picturesque 
mountain  slopes,  constantly  changing  in  effect, 
filled  our  souls  with  delight. 

The  views*  were  such  as  one  may  never  forget. 
As  yet  clouds  and  mist  enveloped  the  mountains, 
which  appeared  like  huge  bodies  of  fire,  throwing 
out  vast  volumes  of  smoke.  We  moved  gradually 
downward,  having  descended  one  thousand  two 
hundred  and  seventy-seven  feet  in  the  last  twenty- 
two  miles.  And  now  suddenly  our  train  skirts  the 
edge  of  a  deep  cafion  whose  steep  walls  are  three 
hundred  feet  in  height.  We  stop  a  minute  to  allow 
those  who  wish  to  look  into  this  wonderful  fissure. 
By  walking  a  few  feet  from  the  railroad  we  can 
gaze  from  a  railed  platform  down  into  a  boiling 
cauldron,  in  which  it  seems  that  all  the  witches  and 
furies  might  steep  their  fearful  potions.  The  great 
walls  are  scarcely  twenty  feet  apart,  and  between 
these  the  waters  of  the  lllicilliwaet  in  wildest  pas- 
sion boil  and  foam  and  dash  themselves  upon 
the  rocks. 


90     Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

At  convenient  intervals  along  the  route,  the  C. 
P.  R.  R.  Co.  has  erected  hotels,  which  in  many 
cases,  provide  palatable  meals:  the  hungry  traveller, 
however,  is  not  greatly  troubled  by  the  quality  of 
his  repast,  if  only  the  quantity  is  sufficient,  and 
time  enough  is  allowed  for  him  to  eat  it.  To  a 
man  who  assured  me  that  the  food  was  better  than 
that  furnished  farther  east,  I  replied  that  the  im- 
provement was  just  in  proportion  to  his  increased 
appetite. 

The  scenery  at  Revelstoke  is  enchanting,  and 
here  we  meet  again  our  old  friend,  the  Columbia 
River,  which  has  broadened  considerably  while 
making  its  winding  course  around  the  Selkirk 
Mountains.  We  steam  along  the  banks  of  Kam- 
loops  Lake  for  an  hour,  and  here  see  many  steam- 
boats and  pleasure  yachts,  a  proof  that  even  in  this 
seemingly  isolated  region,  local  diversions  are  not 
lacking.  The  fishing  hereabout  is  said  to  be  good 
and  the  accommodations  agreeable.  Majestic  moun- 
tain ranges  rise  on  either  side  of  the  lake,  and  for 
hours  we  enjoy  the  views  of  this  valley,  winding 
around  the  slopes,  and  watching  the  river  as  it  now 
draws  smilingly  near,  now  in  sudden  coyness 
rushes  away  almost  out  of  sight. 

At  many  of  the  stations  along  our  route  the  vil- 


Descending  Kicking  Hokse  Pass  See  page  66 


From  the  Mountains  to  the  Sea       93 

lagers  turn  out  in  holiday  dress,  and  current  news 
and  gossip  are  frequently  exchanged.  But  one  pas- 
senger train  from  the  East,  and  one  from  the  West 
touch  at  these  points  daily,  and  it  is  thus  that  the 
news  from  both  directions  reaches  these  distant 
localities. 

Many  tunnels  mark  our  line  of  travel,  these  being 
the  only  means  of  proceeding  in  numberless  por- 
tions of  this  mountainous  country.  From  Kam- 
loops  we  follow  the  Thompson  River  through  its 
valley,  which  is  in  reality  a  canon,  as  the  mountains 
rise  up  on  either  side  to  a  great  height;  but  broad 
and  beautiful,  the  river  flows  along,  twisting  in  and 
out  around  the  mountain  spurs  which  would  fain 
encroach  upon  its  banks.  The  railway  runs  close 
to  the  shore,  and  sometimes  we  venture  to  the  very 
edge  of  the  rocks,  arousing  a  series  of  small  shrieks 
and  various  ejaculations  from  the  more  timid  pas- 
sengers. 1  tell  them  this  is  the  spice  of  travel.  And 
now  so  closely  are  we  pressed  by  these  great 
heights  that  daylight  almost  disappears:  deep  lakes 
gleam  darkly  before  us  and  giant  trees  cast  heavy 
shadows  across  our  path  for  many  miles.  On  and 
on  we  go  through  this  dismal  gorge  which  has 
been  fitly  named  the  Black  Canon.  Uncanny 
enough  it  is,  and  filled  with  ghostly  fancies  which 


94     Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

we  are  glad  to  leave  behind  us  when  suddenly  we 
emerge  into  the  healthy,  happy  daylight  once  more. 

The  scenes  are  ever  changing,  and  our  eyes  are 
continually  delighted  by  pictures  of  greater  beauty 
and  grandeur.  The  deep  seams  that  appear  in 
these  mountains  are,  it  is  said,  caused  by  landslides, 
which  are  of  frequent  occurrence.  Now  we  per- 
ceive, winding  along  the  slope,  a  small  wagon 
road:  this  was  built  by  the  government  before  the 
Iron  Horse  ploughed  his  way  through  these  regions, 
and  runs  from  Yale  to  Cariboo,  a  distance  of  five 
hundred  miles.  This  old  road  is  still  used:  it  is 
said  that  a  whole  season  was  required  to  make  the 
entire  trip  with  a  team  of  mules  or  oxen.  A  num- 
ber of  mines  lie  in  its  vicinity. 

Here  and  there  cattle  may  be  seen  foraging  upon 
the  mountains  at  great  altitudes:  sometimes  they 
wander  upon  dangerous  or  slippery  ground,  lose 
their  foothold  and  are  dashed  to  death  against  the 
rocks  or  in  the  river  below.  The  mortality  in  this 
respect  is  said  to  be  large.  Mountain  sage  brush  is 
abundant  in  this  section:  and  now  and  again  the 
small  individual  burying-ground  of  the  Chinaman 
or  Indian  appears. 

Some  of  the  latter  are  fancifully  decorated  with 
gay  banners  and    all   have    the    curiously   carved 


From  the  Mountains  to  the  Sea       95 

"totems"  on  which  are  inscribed  the  history  or 
genealogy  of  the  tribe. 

Through  the  Thompson  Canon  the  passage  is 
one  of  mingled  fear  and  delight:  fear,  as  the  train 
dashes  along  at  the  rate  of  thirty  or  thirty-five  miles 
an  hour,  ofttimes  upon  the  very  edge  of  a  precipice: 
delight,  vc'hen  upon  the  broad  level  we  may  view 
the  wonderful  scenes  around  us  with  a  feeling  of 
security.  The  reverberating  whistle  of  the  engine 
seems  meant  to  reassure  us  at  intervals  that  all  is 
well,  a  master  hand  is  guarding  our  progress,  and 
that  solid  ground  is  still  beneath  our  feet.  But  the 
rapidity  with  which  we  make  the  sharp  curves 
almost  takes  one's  breath.  It  really  seems  at  times 
as  though  the  engineer  has  "lost  his  grip,"  and  we 
are  tobogganing  at  wild  speed  down  the  mountain: 
but  good  tracks,  broad  wheels  and  a  master's  skill 
carry  us  safely  through  the  perilous  way,  and  now 
for  a  full  hour  the  exquisite  beauties  of  the  canon 
cast  their  spell  upon  us.  The  effect  of  the  many 
and  variously  blended  colors  is  almost  indescriba- 
ble, and  never  to  be  forgotten.  The  banks  and 
cliffs  show  every  shade,  from  creamy  white  to 
deepest  orange:  rusty  red  mingles  with  many 
greens  upon  the  grassy  slopes;  and  rocks  and 
banks  are  worn  into  every  conceivable  shape,  carry- 


96     Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

ing  one  back  to  the  days  of  goblins  and  elves, 
enchanted  castles  and  giant  ogres,  and  all  the  other 
phenomena  which  rendered  the  Arabian  Nights  and 
the  Brothers  Grimm  so  fascinating  to  our  youthful 
days. 

What  a  splendid  achievement — what  a  stupendous 
work  from  beginning  to  end,  is  the  construction  of 
this  railroad!  Accomplished  in  the  face  of  almost 
insurmountable  obstacles,  and  accompanied  by 
seemingly  fatal  discouragements,  its  promoters  have 
won  the  praise  of  a  grateful  nation,  the  credit  of  an 
unexampled  success.  The  trains  are  regular;  some- 
times a  little  late,  but  rarely,  if  ever  subject  to  long 
detentions:  and  what  a  magnificent  realm  is  here 
opened  to  the  tourist  and  lover  of  nature! 

The  kaleidoscope  is  ever  turning,  ever  bringing 
together  new  combinations  of  light  and  shape. 

At  Lytton,  a  small  trading  town,  we  have  nearly 
reached  the  level:  our  altitude  is  only  six  hundred 
and  seventy-five  feet.  And  now  the  canon  sud- 
denly widens,  and  a  grand  and  awe-inspiring  scene 
presents  itself.  The  Fraser,  the  chief  river  of  the 
province,  comes  rushing  dov/n  between  two  great 
mountain  walls  with  terrific  force  utterly  swallow- 
ing up  the  green  waters  of  the  Thompson.  The 
gorge  is  dark  and  terrible:  the  steep  mountains  al- 


From  the  Mountains  to  the  Sea       97 

most  wholly  shut  out  the  rays  of  the  sun.  We 
steam  along,  skirting  the  cliffs,  hundreds  of  feet 
above  the  river.  High,  high  above  us  tower  the 
lofty  peaks.  Huge  boulders  seem  to  block  the  way, 
but  nothing  stops  us:  through  the  rocks,  over 
chasms,  along  the  craggy  walls  we  glide  for  hours; 
breathing  a  sigh  of  relief  when  at  last  the  daylight 
dawns  upon  us,  and  less  awful  scenes  surround  us. 

Now  and  then  a  lonely  Indian  may  be  seen  sitting 
on  the  rocks,  fishing:  groups  of  red  men  are  also 
visible  near  the  water's  edge,  or  in  the  meadows, 
drying  salmon,  which  is  the  principal  food  of  the 
people  in  the  long  cold  winters.  Here  miners  and 
Chinamen  wash  for  gold  along  the  sand  bars.  Now 
we  run  close  to  the  cliff,  now  dart  into  the  midnight 
darkness  of  a  tunnel:  then  out  into  the  daylight, 
sweeping  around  a  sharp  curve;  scarcely  realizing 
one  situation  before  we  find  ourselves  in  another. 

We  pass  station  after  station — North  Bend — Spuz- 
zum — and  still  we  are  in  the  Fraser  Cafion  with  all 
its  stupendous  and  startling  beauty.  This  may  not 
be  compared  with  other  scenes. 

Each  has  its  individual  points  of  grandeur  or 
sublimity:  indeed,  as  many  times  before,  all  ex- 
pressions fall  short  of  the  reality,  and  Fraser  Canon 
must  be  seen  to  be  appreciated. 


98     Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

The  mountains  around  us  are  vivid  and  gorgeous 
in  coloring,  the  canon  twists  and  turns  in  every  di- 
rection, and  the  railroad  follows  its  course.  We 
watch  the  scene  in  a  state  of  bewildered  admiration, 
feeling  ever  that  now  nothing  can  come  that  is  more 
charming  or  more  magnificent;  only  to  meet  with 
a  new  and  astounding  spectacle  at  the  next  turn. 

Such  names  as  are  familiar  in  describing  the  In- 
fernal regions  are  here  used  to  designate  some  of  the 
points  along  our  route. 

Ten  miles  below  North  Bend,  for  instance,  is  Hell 
Gate,  where  the  river  is  forced  through  a  narrow 
pass  between  steep  mountain  walls,  its  course  ob- 
structed by  great  boulders  or  rocky  cliffs,  until  its 
rush  and  roar  are  almost  maddening. 

At  Hope  Station  we  have  nearly  reached  the  level, 
being  only  two  hundred  feet  above  the  valley.  Now 
we  gradually  draw  away  from  the  towering  peaks 
and  massive  giants,  and  soon  find  ourselves  in  the 
midst  of  green  fields  and  sunny  meadows,  with  the 
mountains  in  the  background.  This  is  a  wide, 
pleasant  valley,  with  fine  timber  lands  and  evidences 
of  agriculture. 

Indian  villages  sweep  by  us,  with  their  odd  look- 
ing huts  and  strange  temples.  Chinamen  too  have 
their  settlements  and  characteristic  Joss  houses  in 


From  the  Mountains  to  the  Sea        99 

this  region.  Still  following  the  Fraser,  we  come  to 
the  apparently  bottomless  Devil's  Lake,  a  body  of 
water  as  black  as,  ink,  and  as  deep  as  the  Inferno 
itself,  with  an  evil  gleam  upon  its  shining  face,  as 
though  the  spirit  witiiin  were  lying  in  wait  to  cast  a 
spell  upon  the  unwary  and  draw  them  down  to  its 
fathomless  depths.  A  gruesome  spot,  and  we  are 
not  sorry  to  escape  its  dismal  atmosphere. 

The  Hope  Peaks,  with  their  beds  of  silver  ore, 
only  awaiting  the  magic  touch  of  the  capitalist, 
arouse  many  conjectures,  and  we  have  attractive 
visions  of  untold  wishes  realized  by  the  possession 
of  a  tithe  of  the  wealth  lying  idly  on  these  moun- 
tain slopes.  The  canon  widens,  and  the  views 
seem  less  inspiring.  We  may  lean  back  awhile, 
and  weary  eyes  and  bodies,  as  well  as  tired  brains 
can  enjoy  a  season  of  well  earned  repose. 

At  Mission  Junction  we  have  the  first  good  view 
of  Mount  Baker,  gleaming  white  and  majestic, 
14,000  feet  above  the  valley,  and  nearly  fifty  miles 
away.  As  our  train  is  about  twenty-four  hours 
later  than  schedule  time,  it  is  decided  by  the  rail- 
road officials  to  push  through  to  Vancouver:  those 
passengers  who  wish  to  go  to  Seattle  can  be  accom- 
modated the  following  day.  This  will  give  us  a 
glimpse  of  Vancouver. 


lOO    Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

While  awaiting  the  coming  train,  1  have  the  good 
fortune  to  meet  a  resident  of  this  district  who  is 
well  informed  regarding  people  and  conditions 
hereabout.  From  him  I  learn  that  there  are  several 
Chinese  firms  in  this  part  of  the  country,  owning 
millions  of  capital,  whose  business  is  to  barter 
Chinese  flesh  and  blood — in  other  words,  to  sell  the 
Chinamen  as  slaves.  These  firms  pay  one  hundred 
dollars  for  each  Chinaman  imported  to  this  coun- 
try, and  three  dollars  a  year  as  individual  tax.  The 
managers  see  that  the  sums  are  gradually  paid 
back:  thus  until  the  obligation  is  cancelled,  the  per- 
sons of  the  Chinamen  are  held  as  collateral  security, 
and  for  the  time,  they  are  slaves  in  every  sense  of 
the  word.  Should  a  Chinaman  become  sick,  or  be 
the  victim  of  an  accident,  his  employer  is,  accord- 
ing to  the  Chinese  code,  bound  to  provide  for  him, 
even  though  he  should  become  a  cripple  for  life. 
It  seems,  however,  that  the  obligations  on  this  side 
are  not  always  fulfilled;  for  a  Chinaman  became 
seriously  ill  at  one  of  the  mining  camps  not  far  dis- 
tant, and  the  members  of  the  camp,  not  wishing  to 
take  care  of  the  patient,  moved  away,  bag  and 
baggage,  leaving  the  poor  man  to  die  or  recover,  as 
time  might  determine.  Chinese  labor  is  employed 
in  this  section,  to  a  very  great  extent.     Indians  are 


Mount  Stephen 


See  page  67 


From  the  Mountains  to  the  Sea      103 

frequently  seen  in  the  neighborhood,  and  some 
strange  stories  are  told  about  them.  One  of  the 
oddest  is  the  following  — 

A  wealthy  Indian  coming  into  the  town  one  day, 
saw  a  hearse  with  a  pair  of  fine  black  horses  at- 
tached, standing  in  front  of  one  of  the  residences — 
evidently  waiting  to  convey  the  body  of  the  de- 
ceased resident  to  the  cemetery.  While  the  funeral 
ceremonies  were  going  on  inside  the  house,  the 
Indian  made  arrangements  for  the  purchase  of  the 
hearse  and  team.  The  sale  was  quickly  made  and 
the  outfit  delivered  over  to  the  red  man,  who  drove 
away  to  his  ranch  with  his  prize,  and  thereafter 
made  daily  excursions  with  his  family  in  this 
ghostly  vehicle. 

Resting  comfortably  at  Vancouver,  we  plan  for 
the  journey  to  Seattle,  a  distance  of  one  hundred 
and  seventy-eight  miles,  as  we  wish  to  have  a 
glimpse  of  this  attractive  city  before  we  sail  for 
Alaska.  Experience  teaches  the  traveller  that  brain 
as  well  as  body  must  have  perfect  rest  after  a  con- 
tinuous strain  of  many  days.  Should  one  by  over 
indulgence  tax  too  greatly  the  digestive  organs,  the 
physician  who  is  called  in  prescribes  rest  from  food 
of  any  kind,  for  a  day  or  two.  Now  the  brain  is 
similarly  strained — the  experienced  "globetrotter" 


104  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

knows  the  necessity  for  a  few  days  of  repose,  and 
yielding  to  this,  soon  regains  his  normal  condition. 

Vancouver,  with  its  mountain  views  on  every 
side,  its  fine  wharves,  beautiful  residences  and 
public  buildings,  is  a  wonderful  city,  when  one  re- 
members that  less  than  fifteen  years  ago  this  site 
was  covered  by  a  dense  forest.  Steamships  from 
many  countries  leave  their  cargoes  at  its  long 
wharves,  or  bear  them  thence;  and  trains  for  the 
east  carry  tea,  sugar,  furs  and  various  other  articles 
to  the  shores  of  the  Atlantic.  Charming  views 
meet  the  eyes  here,  whether  they  rest  upon  the 
lofty  snow-clad  summit  of  Mount  Baker,  the  beauti- 
ful Cascade  group,  or  the  misty  heights  on  Van- 
couver Island.  Looking  towards  the  harbor,  a  mass 
of  shipping  presents  itself,  and  the  glance  wanders 
over  the  varied  characteristics  of  different  nations, 
as  well  as  a  multitude  of  local  craft,  from  the  canoe 
of  the  gaily  robed  Indian  to  the  bark  of  the  hunter, 
with  its  valuable  load  of  furs. 

From  Vancouver  our  road  lies  through  a  vast 
forest.  It  has  been  stated  that  this  district  contains 
the  largest  lumber  tracts  in  the  world:  the  density 
of  these  woods,  the  huge  trees,  lofty  and  sym- 
metrical, such  as  firs,  spruce  and  cedars,  the  enor- 
mous mills,  whose  buzzing  saws  may  be  heard 


From  the  Mountains  to  the  Sea      105 

hundreds  of  feet  away,  convince  one  of  the  truth 
of  the  assertion. 

We  come  across  many  small  clearings  in  our 
journey  through  the  forests,  and  here  are  little 
settlements  of  log  cabins  or  frame  houses  nestling 
close  to  each  other.  Ofttimes  we  see  the  back- 
woodsman at  his  labors,  or  his  wife  standing  in  the 
doorway  shading  her  eyes  from  the  sun,  while 
many  sunburnt  tots  cling  about  her  skirts.  They 
all  wave  their  arms  vigorously  as  we  pass  by.  The 
charred  stumps  of  noble  trees,  measuring  three  and 
four  feet  in  diameter,  and  standing  up  six  or  eight 
feet  from  the  ground,  tell  the  story  of  great  fires 
sweeping  through  this  region  at  different  periods. 

At  Sumas  Station  our  train  is  legally  "  held  up  "  by 
the  officers  of  the  United  State  Customs  House,  who 
enter  the  cars  and  make  a  somewhat  perfunctory 
examination  of  our  belongings.  We  have  an  un- 
usually merry  party  on  board,  and  there  is  much 
sport  over  this  farcical  investigation.  One  jolly 
traveller  declares  audibly  that  the  ladies  should  take 
off  their  shoes  in  order  to  prove  beyond  doubt  that 
nothing  dutiable  was  hidden  therein.  The  officers 
retort  with  much  dignity  that  they  have  never  be- 
fore seen  so  much  "truck." 

Seattle,  like  many  other  western  cities,  possesses 


lo6  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

numerous  and  varied  interests.  Days  might  glide 
into  weeks  while  exploring  the  attractions  of  this 
busy  town.  But  in  books  of  travel,  the  reader  does 
not  like  his  guide  to  dwell  too  long  on  one  theme, 
so  I  will  not  weary  my  reader  with  a  detailed  ac- 
count of  its  charms,  merely  alluding  to  a  few  gen- 
eral points.  As  of  old  it  was  said  that  all  roads  led 
to  Rome,  so  of  Seattle  one  may  say  that  from  this 
city  radiate  routes  to  all  parts  of  the  country. 
Posters,  circulars,  handbills,  in  conspicuous  places, 
are  distributed  throughout  the  city,  advertising 
Special,  Regular  and  Favorite  routes  to  Cape  Nome, 
Dawson  City,  Juneau  and  many  other  well-known 
gold  fields  in  Alaska.  The  most  important  of  these 
placards  to  us  is  that  which  announces  the  fact  that 
the  Steamship  "Queen"  is  upon  the  list  of  boats 
run  by  the  "Pioneer  Line"  of  the  Pacific  Coast 
Steamship  Co.,  sailing  for  Wrangel,  Juneau,  Ketch- 
ikan, Skagway,  Sitka  and  Glacier  Bay.  It  also 
makes  the  attractive  statement:  "The  fastest 
Steamship  running  to  Alaska,"  and  its  final  and 
cheering  words  are:  "Safety,  Speed  and  Com- 
fort." 

Numberless  shops  almost  besiege  the  visitor  with 
their  tempting  signs.  Here  one  may  obtain  every- 
thing necessary  for  the   explorer,  or  for  the  ad- 


From  the  Mountains  to  the  Sea      107 

venturer  who  is  ambitious  and  daring  enough  to  try 
his  fortunes  in  those  wild  and  isolated  regions. 
You  could  almost  imagine  yourself  in  New  York  or 
Chicago;  the  busy  life  gives  one  the  impression 
of  vast  swarms  of  bees  unceasingly  carrying  on 
their  laborious  work  of  accumulation.  The  streets 
are  so  hilly  that  he  who  would  make  haste  must 
ride  along  their  steep  ways,  and  when  in  the  car, 
you  are  reminded  of  a  toboggan  speeding  over  an 
apparently  endless  course.  Seattle  is  the  oldest 
American  settlement  on  Puget  Sound,  and  possesses 
a  fine  spacious  harbor.  Its  residences  and  public 
buildings  are  built  of  brick  and  stone,  and  give  evi- 
dences of  a  prosperous  population.  The  city  is 
very  attractive  in  its  environment,  the  beautiful 
Lake  Washington,  but  a  mile  to  the  east,  supplying 
it  with  an  abundance  of  pure  water.  Here  are  pic- 
turesque hills  covered  with  noble  fir,  spruce  and 
cedar  trees.  Vast  coal  fields  are  connected  with  the 
town  by  railways,  and  the  country  lands  are  fertile, 
producing  rich  crops  of  hay  and  oats.  A  fine  hop 
growing  valley  affords  a  profitable  industry  for 
those  who  reside  in  its  neighborhood. 

After  a  few  days  of  rest  and  entertainment  in  this 
pleasant  city,  we  engage  our  berths  on  the 
"Queen,"  the  favorite  boat  in  the  service  of  the 


io8  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

Pacific  Coast  Steamship  Company,  for  the  entire 
route  through  Alaskan  waters  to  Skagway  and  re- 
turn. We  are  particular  as  to  location  of  berths, 
meals  and  other  matters,  for  the  steamer  is  to  be 
our  home  for  a  fortnight  or  more.  We  are  favor- 
ably impressed  by  the  Captain  and  other  officers, 
and  make  careful  notes  regarding  proper  clothing, 
•tobacco,  medicines,  chairs,  photographic  supplies 
and  the  hundred  other  things  that  come  up  in 
planning  a  trip  of  this  kind.  We  scan  the  passenger 
list  in  the  hope  of  finding  the  name  of  a  friend,  rela- 
tive or  congenial  acquaintance  who  may  prove  com- 
panionable on  the  voyage.  Although  none  of  these 
appear,  the  outlook  is  promising,  and  we  return 
from  our  tour  of  investigation  quite  satisfied  with 
the  conditions  of  our  prospective  expedition. 

Of  course  many  books  have  been  written  about 
the  country  we  are  going  to  visit.  Its  gold  fields 
have  attracted  the  attention  of  the  whole  civilized 
world.  Experts  have  described  in  detail  its  geol- 
ogy, natural  resources,  climate,  topography  and 
routes  of  travel.  Tourists  have  given  to  the  public 
their  impressions  of  this  most  interesting  land,  and 
guide  books  have  been  compiled  by  steamship  lines 
and  railroad  companies;  but  apart  from  general 
statistics,  each  traveller  is  differently  affected  by  the 


From  the  Mountains  to  the  Sea      109 

scenes  through  which  he  passes.  To  his  individual 
mind  appears  a  picture  corresponding  with  the  mind 
which  he  brings  to  bear  upon  his  surroundings. 
And  so,  laying  aside  all  published  records  of  these 
wonderful  regions,  I  note  what  1  saw  from  the 
standpoint  of  a  business  man  as  well  as  from  that 
of  the  lover  of  nature  who  rejoices  in  all  the  various 
phases  in  which  she  presents  herself  to  him. 

1  must,  however,  make  one  exception  to  the  state- 
ment just  expressed  by  inserting  here  some  para- 
graphs of  history  copied  from  one  of  the  many 
circulars  which  have  fallen  in  my  way. 

"Klondike  is  a  corruption  of  the  Indian  expression 
'Throndirck,'  signifying  'Plenty  of  fish.'  To  the 
world  at  large  it  now  means  'plenty  of  gold.' 
The  Klondike  is  one, — and  a  small  one,  at  that — of 
hundreds  of  tributaries  of  the  great  Yukon  River  of 
Alaska.  This  vast  territory,  then  known  as  Russian 
America,  was  bought  from  Russia  by  the  United 
States  in  1867  for  $7,200,000.  Its  name — Alaska — 
meaning  in  the  Indian  tongue,  'Great  Country,' 
was  suggested  by  Charles  Sumner,  and  in  view  of 
its  extent  and  possibilities  is  eminently  appropriate. 

"Its  westernmost  point.  Cape  Wrangel  on  Attu 
Island,  is  six  degrees  farther  west  of  San  Francisco 
than  that  city  is  west  of  the  eastern  boundary  line 


1  lo  Tourine:  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 


*e> 


of  Maine;  putting  tlie  California  metropoles  three 
longitudinal  degrees  east  of  the  geographical  centre 
of  the  United  States.  Including  its  outlying  islands, 
Alaska  has  an  area  of  617,703  square  miles,  or  395,- 
329,920  acres,  nearly  equal  to  all  the  United  States 
from  the  Mississippi  River  to  the  Atlantic  Ocean, 
and  from  the  St.  Lawrence  River  to  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico. 

"The  Yukon,  the  great  river  of  Alaska,  is  in 
many  respects  second  only  to  the  Amazon  among 
the  rivers  of  the  new  world. 

"  It  is  navigable  for  large  steamers,  as  one  unbroken 
flood,  one  thousand  nine  hundred  and  sixty-five 
miles  from  its  mouth,  to  where  the  Lewes  and 
Pelly  rivers  unite  to  form  it,  or  farther  than  from 
New  Orleans  to  St.  Paul,  and  more  than  twice  as 
far  as  from  New  Orleans  to  Chicago; — and  it  is 
navigable  for  light-draft  boats  hundreds  of  miles 
farther  up  each  of  these  arms,  and  others  like  the 
Hootalinqua  and  Big  Salmon.  At  its  mouth  it  is 
about  sixty  miles  wide,  and  fourteen  miles  above, 
it  is  from  eight  to  ten  miles  across.  It  drains  an 
empire  of  more  than  five  hundred  thousand  square 
miles,  and  discharges  nearly  as  much  water  into 
Behring  Sea,  as  the  Mississippi  does  into  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico." 


In  Alaskan  Waters 


CHAPTER  IV 
In  Alaskan  Waters 

"  Muggins  " — Admiralty  Inlet — Port  Townsend — Inland  Route — 
Victoria — Fragrant  Roads — Gulf  of  Georgia — Islands — "  A 
Day  without  a  Night  " — Walk  on  Deck — Various  Characters 
— In  the  Saloon — Returning  Steamers — Twilight — A  Chang- 
ing Panorama — Silence — Whales — Seymour  Narrows — Lonely 
Cabins — A  Haunt  of  the  Fairies — Adventurers  and  Specu- 
lators— An  Important  Experiment — Clouds,  Wind  and  Rain 
— Milbank  Sound — The  Story  of  the  Moose — Graham  Reach 
— Labyrinthian  Water  Ways — The  Home  of  the  Wild  Crea- 
tures— "  The  Coquittam  " — Camera  Fiends — Salmon  Can- 
neries— Native  Fishermen — Through  the  Telescope — Eagles 
— Aerial  Reflections — Future  Prospects. 

E  have  on  board,  a  character  whose  sense 
of  his  own  importance  and  responsi- 
bility is  greater  than  that  of  any  one  on 
the  ship,  whose  self-esteem  is  un- 
bounded, and  who  is  the  familiar  friend  of  every 
one  of  us,  and  an  invaluable  adjunct  to  the  enter- 
tainment of  those  who  find  the  scenery  monotonous 
and   the  voyage  tedious.     This   is   no   other  than 

"Muggins,"  a  little  Skye  terrier,  the  intimate  of 
lis 


114  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

Captain,  mates  and  cook;  whose  inquisitive  nose 
leads  him  into  every  nook  and  corner  of  the 
steamer,  utterly  regardless  of  such  signs  as  "No 
Admittance,"  or  even  the  well  respected  privacy  of 
the  ladies'  staterooms. 

Should  you  retire  to  a  secluded  portion  of  the 
deck  for  a  few  moments'  private  meditation,  a 
certain  well  known  sound  will  cause  you  to  lookup 
and  find  the  inquiring  eyes  of  "  Muggins  "  peering 
into  your  own.  In  the  saloon — on  the  bridge — on 
the  promenade  deck — everywhere  it  is  the  same, 
and  one  begins  to  feel  that  the  creature  is  ubiqui- 
tous. He  is  certainly  a  veritable  Napoleon  in  the 
skill  with  which  he  manages  to  be  in  one  place 
when  he  is  supposed  to  be  in  another:  but  to  do 
him  justice,  1  must  say  that  he  is  always  welcome, 
for  he  is  the  pride  and  pet  of  every  one  on  board. 
And  he  is  well  aware  of  this;  in  fact  he  considers 
the  personal  welfare  of  every  soul  on  the  steamer  as 
his  especial  province.  I  wonder  often  that  his 
great  activity  and  his  many  cares  do  not  make  him 
ill.  At  times  he  does  succumb  from  sheer  ex- 
haustion. 

As  we  glide  into  the  placid  waters  of  Admiralty 
Inlet,  we  behold  the  beautiful  blue  range  of  the 
Olympic    Mountains;    the    gathering    twilight  and 


In  Alaskan  Waters  1 1 5" 

drooping  masses  of  cloud  partly  obscure  the  loftiest 
peaks  of  these  mountains  with  charming  effect.  A 
faint  breeze  stirs  the  shining  waters  into  gentle 
ripples,  giving  just  the  touch  of  life  needed  to  the 
lovely  scene.  Our  first  stop  is  at  Port  Townsend, 
"the  Key  City  of  the  Sound."  This  seaport  is  an 
active  business  place,  of  salubrious  climate.  It  is 
said  that  more  than  two  thousand  vessels  enter  here 
annually,  not  including  hundreds  of  others  which 
pass  in  and  out  under  coasting  licenses.  Here  is 
the  United  States  Custom  House,  and  the  number 
of  American  steamships  sailing  from  this  harbor  to 
foreign  shores  is  greater  than  from  any  other  port 
in  the  United  States. 

Puget  Sound  embraces  a  shore  line  of  sixteen 
hundred  miles.  It  is  a  vast  inland  sea,  placid  and 
beautiful,  containing  innumerable  bays,  harbors  and 
inlets,  and  the  waters  of  many  streams  lose  them- 
selves in  its  bosom.  From  port  Townsend  to  Vic- 
toria, one's  physical  sensations  are  apt  to  prove  a 
little  unsatisfactory,  although  our  line  of  travel  is 
almost  wholly  inland,  lying  betv/een  the  many 
islands,  and  through  straits,  gulfs,  sounds  and  other 
charming  waterways.  When  we  arrive  at  Vic- 
toria, at  half-past  four  in  the  morning,  the  radiant 
daylight  pouring  through  the  windows,  is  flooding 


1 16  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

our  stateroom.  We  stop  here  for  a  short  time. 
Beyond  the  fact  that  this  is  the  capital  of  British 
Columbia,  there  is  little  to  attract  the  tourist  here. 

Victoria  is  situated  seventy  miles  from  the  main- 
land, and  has  a  cosmopolitan  population,  including 
many  Chinese.  This  very  quiet  town  is  pleasantly 
situated,  with  the  sea  on  three  sides,  and  high  hills 
in  the  background.  Here  are  wooded  suburbs, 
containing  giant  ferns,  wild  rose-bushes,  an  abun- 
dance of  fruit  and  the  wild  syringa  which  fills  the 
shaded  roads  with  its  fragrance.  Flowers  attain  an 
unusual  size,  and  the  whole  place  has  the  appear- 
ance of  a  delightful  park. 

Having  taken  on  board  freight  and  a  number  of 
passengers,  we  are  off  again,  ploughing  the  smooth 
waters  of  the  Gulf  of  Georgia.  Our  passengers 
seem  restless,  moving  from  one  side  of  the  ship  to 
the  other,  anxious  to  lose  no  point  of  the  beautiful 
scene  which  changes  continually  as  we  advance. 

The  misty  blues  and  browns  of  the  distant 
mountains,  the  long  picturesque  shore  line  and  the 
shimmering  green  seas  around  us  are  most  harmo- 
nious in  their  effects.  On  many  of  the  islands  the 
fresh  verdure  and  green  trees  grow  close  to  the 
water's  edge;  and  earth  and  rocks,  sky  and  snow- 
capped heights  delight  us  with  new  and  surprising 


In  Alaskan  Waters  117 

combinations  as  though  to  bid  us  heed  that  the  last 
word  can  never  be  said  of  the  infinite  resources  and 
wonderful  beauties  of  nature. 

Looking  downward,  the  duplicates  of  all  these 
pictures  glide  swiftly  by  in  the  mirror-like  waters  of 
the  gulf,  with  a  subtle  charm  and  mysterious  spell 
which  rival  the  glory  of  the  great  originals  them- 
selves. Here  and  there  the  water  is  so  shallow  that 
"we  see  the  shifting  shadows  on  the  sands  below. 
It  is  now  six  o'clock,  but  no  signs  of  approaching 
twilight  are  visible  in  this  region,  for  in  Alaska,  a 
mild  summer  day  is  a  day  without  a  night.  Here 
one  may  view  at  will  the  picturesque  scenes  around 
him  at  almost  any  time  during  the  twenty  four 
hours. 

Let  us  walk  on  deck,  and  observe  how  the  major- 
ity of  the  passengers  are  employing  the  time.  A 
stroll  from  our  stateroom  in  the  forward  part  of  the 
ship,  to  the  nose  of  the  steamer  assures  us  that  the 
temperature  has  fallen  considerably,  and  we  return 
to  don  a  heavy  overcoat  as  a  matter  of  prudence, 
for  to  be  sick  on  this  voyage  means  the  failure  of 
all  our  plans — a  very  unwelcome  prospect. 

How  I  love  to  watch  the  sharp  bow  of  the 
steamer  cleave  the  waters,  flinging  the  silvery  spray 
high  in  the  air,  and  enveloping  one  in  mist  which 


1 18  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

seems  to  exhale  the  very  spirit  of  those  hidden 
depths  beneath.  Suddenly,  as  with  my  camera  I 
have  just  captured  a  lovely  view  ahead,  I  hear  the 
growl  and  bark  of  my  little  friend  "Muggins." 
But  he  has  stopped  merely  for  a  passing  greeting: 
his  time  is  full  this  evening;  he  does  not  wish  me 
to  feel  neglected;  a  brief  but  expressive  pantomime 
passes  between  us,  and  away  he  darts  to  find  his 
master,  the  Captain,  with  whom,  it  seems,  he  has 
important  business.  His  devotion  in  this  quarter  is 
remarkable,  and  the  Captain  treats  him  with  such 
unfailing  kindness,  that  his  little  heart  responds 
with  an  almost  human  affection. 

Many  of  the  passengers  are  walking  to  and  fro. 
This  is  the  hour  for  the  constitutional  promenade, 
and  those  who  must  make  their  two  miles  after 
meals,  are  steadily  approaching  the  goal.  This  is  a 
duty  which  may  not  be  shirked,  rain  or  shine. 

Here  the  staid  married  couple,  with  sober  mien 
and  measured  step,  cast  disapproving  glances  upon 
the  romping  schoolgirl,  full  of  the  vitality  of 
youth,  who  haunts  the  footsteps  of  the  Captain  and 
other  officers,  dons  their  caps,  and  steals  their  but- 
tons, until  the  poor  fellows  are  reduced  to  the  ne- 
cessity of  safety  pins.  Here  is  the  camera  fiend,  as 
a  matter  of  course,  for  whom  no  situation  is  too 


In  Alaskan  Waters  119 

difficult,  no  light  too  dim  for  the  chance  of  a  "snap 
shot."  What  matter  if  the  plate  does  turn  out  a  bad 
picture  ?  The  excitement  is  in  the  intense  delight 
of  shooting  off  the  shutter  at  the  critical  moment. 
Here  too,  we  behold  a  romantic  elderly  person, 
dwelling  in  a  dreamland  of  her  own,  to  the  utter 
exclusion  of  the  world  outside,  no  doubt  enraptured 
with  these  glowing  scenes,  and  peopling  the  rugged 
mountain  slopes  and  picturesque  islands  with  the 
etherial  creatures  of  her  fancy.  To  and  fro  she 
wanders,  absorbed  in  her  musings,  and  the  crowd 
disturbs  her  not. 

A  peep  into  the  saloon  reveals  the  lover  of  games 
deep  in  his  favorite  pastime  of  chess  or  cards,  the 
reader  with  his  book,  the  musician  at  the  piano 
drawing  forth  soft  harmonies,  invoked  by  the 
charm  of  these  wondrous  waterways.  Each  en- 
joys the  passing  hour  as  his  temperament  suggests. 
And  the  lovers, — they  too  are  here,  but  it  is  not  so 
easy  to  find  them.  Happy,  buoyant,  they  look  out 
with  dreamy  eyes  from  the  shadows  of  a  drooping 
awning,  or  the  huge  smoke-stack.  The  world  was 
made  for  them.  And  this  ideal  voyage  through 
fairy-land — Can  life  ever  hold  a  greater  joy  ? — The 
play  goes  on — unconsciously  we  fill  our  appointed 
roles,  forgetful  that  fate  sends  into  our  paths  just 


120  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

those  whom  we  are  bound  to  meet,  and  that  the 
attractions  and  repulsions  experienced  in  a  com- 
pany of  this  kind,  are  inevitable  in  consequence  of 
our  temperament,  and  the  natures  of  others  with 
whom  we  come  into  contact.  No  credit  is  ours 
that  the  friendship  of  a  lifetime  is  cemented  upon 
this  voyage:  no  blame  if  we  shrink  from  the 
stranger  whose  conversation  is,  as  it  were,  in  an 
unknown  tongue.  Here  it  is  as  it  is  the  world 
over,  and  so  it  will  be  until  the  end  of  time. 

Now  and  then  we  pass  a  steamer,  returning  to 
Seattle,  laden  with  the  hard-earned  spoil  of  the 
prospectors.  As  the  ships  pass  each  other,  a  volley 
of  cheers  rings  out  upon  the  air,  and  floats  away 
in  echoes  among  the  distant  mountains.  Twilight 
sets  in  at  last,  and  what  an  ideal  hour!  Faint, 
misty,  beautiful,  filling  the  soul  with  almost  pain- 
ful ecstasy.  Indescribable  are  the  scenes  and  their 
effect.  He  alone  who  has  experienced  the  charm 
of  these  surroundings  at  this  hour  can  truly  appre- 
ciate and  understand  it. 

As  late  as  half-past  nine  or  ten  o'clock  one  may 
snap  a  photograph,  and  be  pretty  sure  of  a  satis- 
factory result.  I  obtain  some  very  fine  views  of 
mountains,  clouds  and  water,  but  alas,  no  photo- 
graph  can  repeat  the  unrivalled   enchantment  of 


In  Alaskan  Waters  121 

these  pictures,  even  though  it  be  the  best  that  can 
be  taken.  The  unobserving  traveller  might  declare 
that  the  character  of  these  scenes  is  monotonous, 
but  this  is  far  from  being  the  case,  for  though  we 
have  always  the  mountains,  the  sea  and  the  clouds, 
the  combinations,  shapes  and  hues  are  constantly 
changing.  The  clouds  of  various  density,  ever 
floating,  flying,  shifting  into  most  fantastic  and 
suggestive  shapes;  the  mountains,  individual  in 
grandeur,  leave  each  its  own  impression  upon  the 
beholder,  and  this  shimmering  sea  of  emerald 
green,  winding  in  and  out  between  the  verdant 
islands,  at  every  turn  presents  a  new  face  to  us, 
flashing  now  in  the  sunlight,  now  bearing  the 
reflection  of  the  fleecy  clouds  or  the  forest  foliage 
drooping  over  the  edge  of  the  shore,  now  portray- 
ing the  unspeakable  majesty  and  grandeur  of  the 
mountain  walls,  with  their  magic  color  harmonies 
contrasting  with  the  dazzling  snows  which  envelop 
their  summits.  The  greatest  of  all  Artists  has  used 
only  the  three  primary  colors,  and  behold  what 
wondrous  masterpieces  He  has  created. 

On  the  British  Columbia  side  are  numberless 
wooded  islands,  which  appear  like  great  untrodden 
forests,  without  any  sign  of  human  life.  The  oppo- 
site shore  too,  that  of  Vancouver  Island,  is  solitary 


122  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

and  silent.  For  miles  and  miles  we  travel  thus 
silently  and  serenely  onward,  the  spell  unbroken, 
the  stillness  undisturbed,  save  by  an  occasional 
school  of  dolphins,  or  an  enormous  whale  which 
spouts  forth  a  fountain  of  spray  at  least  twenty 
feet  in  height,  and  an  instant  later  shoots  ten  feet 
out  of  the  water,  then  plunges  headlong  back  again. 
Some  idea  of  his  weight  may  be  ascertained  by  the 
force  with  which  he  falls  into  the  waves.  If  he 
thinks  to  entertain  us  by  these  sportive  manoeuvres, 
he  certainly  succeeds. 

As  we  leave  the  Gulf  of  Georgia  and  enter  Sey- 
mour Narrows,  the  scenes  on  both  sides  assume 
greater  grandeur.  The  lofty  Blue  Mountains  of  the 
Cascade  Range  form  a  majestic  background  to  the 
picturesque  islands  with  their  stately  forests  of 
spruce,  pine  and  fir  trees.  These  trees  are  of  all 
ages,  and  some  of  them  are  of  great  girth.  The 
soul  of  the  lumberman  would  be  filled  with  long- 
ing at  the  sight  of  these  woodlands.  As  evening 
closes  over  the  scene,  and  a  misty  veil  envelops  the 
mountain  peaks,  the  picture  is  one  of  soft  and 
dreamy  beauty.  Looking  back  from  the  stern  of 
the  boat  upon  the  island  groups  dotting  the  waters, 
one  seems  to  be  sailing  through  an  enchanted  realm. 
Surely,  surely  this  is  the  home  of  the 


In  Alaskan  Waters  125 

"  Elves  of  hills,  brooks,  standing  lakes  and  groves; 
And  ye  that  on  the  sands  with  printless  foot, 
Do  chase  the  ebbing  Neptune." 

Can  you  not  see  the  rival  courts  of  Oberon  and 
Titania?  Those  are  not  dewdrops;  they  are  their 
jewels  glistening  through  the  night.  And  here  is 
tiny  Queen  Mab,  "in  shape  no  bigger  than  an 
agate  stone  on  the  forefinger  of  an  alderman." 
Yon  silvery  opening  is  the  fairy  ring  in  which  they 
will  dance  when  the  moon  is  high;  and  look,  in 
the  shadow  of  that  giant  fir  lurks  Puck,  the  "  mis- 
chief-loving sprite, — the  jester  of  the  fairy  court," 
only  waiting  an  opportunity  to  set  the  whole  realm 
of  fairy-land  at  odds.  Here  too  are  Pea-blossom, 
Cobweb,  Moth,  Mustard-seed,  the  dainty  Ariel  and 
the  rest.  How  well  we  know  them  all  in  their 
robes  of  green,  as  they  wander  over  hill  and  dale 
and  through  the  rustling  forest.  List!  Can  you 
not  hear  their  song  ? — 

"  By  the  moone  we  sport  and  play, 
With  the  night  begins  our  day; 
As  we  frisk  the  dew  doth  fall, 
Trip  it,  little  urchins  all, 
Lightly  as  the  little  bee, 
Two  by  two,  and  three  by  three, 
And  about  goe  wee,  goe  wee." 

This  Pass  is  narrow  indeed,  and  great  boulders 


1 26  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 


'to 


are  seen,  thrusting  their  huge  elbows  into  the 
water,  as  though  endeavoring  to  obstruct  our  pas- 
sage through  the  strait.  This  is  considered  quite 
a  dangerous  way  on  account  of  the  protruding  and 
jagged  rocks,  and  many  vessels  have  been  lost 
here,  owing  to  ignorance  of  the  perilous  points. 
The  United  States  government,  however,  is  at 
work  on  surveys  and  charts,  marking  these  spots 
and  otherwise  reducing  the  dangers  of  travel.  Our 
Captain  is  exceedingly  cautious  in  making  all  these 
narrow  waterways,  and  studies  the  tides  to  insure 
the  safety  of  his  ship.  Many  times  I  have  seen 
him  with  two  of  his  officers  on  the  bridge,  watch- 
ing every  change  in  the  current,  every  indentation 
of  the  shore. 

Now  we  see  little  groups  of  unpainted  houses  of 
one  story;  probably  the  homes  of  gold-diggers  or 
trappers.  Here  and  there  a  solitary  cabin  fills  the 
heart  with  pity  for  the  lonely  life  of  its  inhabitants, 
whose  sole  companions  are  the  forests,  the  moun- 
tains and  the  sea  in  summer;  the  bleak  winds,  the 
snows  and  storms  in  winter.  One  can  imagine  this 
wild  and  isolated  region  to  be  the  haunt  of  a  great 
number  of  wild  animals,  who  live  their  natural  life 
here  with  little  fear  of  the  wiles  of  their  persistent 
and  mortal  enemy,  mankind. 


In  Alaskan  Waters  127 

On  the  Vancouver  side  are  mountains,  thousands 
of  feet  in  height,  with  their  snowy  robes  reaching 
half-way  to  their  bases.  At  their  feet,  here  and 
there,  rings  of  blue  smoke  curling  upward,  tell  of 
the  existence  of  a  little  group  of  cottages,  and  these 
settlements  prove  that  civilization  is  slowly  but 
surely  making  its  way  into  this  remote  region.  The 
mountains  continue  in  almost  unbroken  ranks,  all 
snow-capped,  and  glowing  with  reflected  brightness 
in  the  sunset  light. 

I  am  frequently  entertained  by  the  conversation  of 
men  who  are  making  the  trip  to  the  Klondike  in 
search  of  gold.  The  adventurers  and  prospectors, 
of  whom  there  are  many  on  board,  are  looking 
hopefully  forward  to  this  goal  of  fortune.  This  is 
a  new  experience  for  a  number  of  them. 

About  thirty  of  these  men  have  assembled  in  the 
bow  of  the  boat,  idly  lounging  on  coils  of  rope  or 
sails,  talking  over  their  plans,  or  listening  to  the  sto- 
ries of  those  who  have  been  over  the  route.  Some 
are  on  their  way  to  Dawson  City,  some  to  Nome, 
while  others  are  on  a  purely  prospecting  tour,  and 
are  filled  with  the  spirit  of  speculation.  How  buoy- 
ant they  seem! 

Most  of  them  are  young  and  strong,  physically 
able  to  endure  labor  and  hardship.     I  join  this  group 


128  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

and  enter  into  conversation  with  them,  advising 
them  freely  from  the  standpoint  of  an  outsider,  and 
soon  win  their  interest  and  attention.  One  young 
fellow,  handsome  and  atliletic,  is  full  of  enthusiasm, 
yet  evidently  affected  by  some  depressing  influence. 
He  seems  to  feel  the  importance  of  the  step  he  is 
taking,  and  his  earnest  questions  convince  me  that 
this  is  a  turning-point  in  his  career.  Later,  in  pri- 
vate conversation,  I  learned  that  he  is  making  the 
expedition  in  opposition  to  the  wishes  of  every 
member  of  his  family,  and  that  their  disapproval  is 
a  source  of  great  sorrow  to  him;  but  that  he  is  de- 
termined to  succeed,  and  show  them  that  he  was 
right  in  undertaking  it.     If  he  should  fail  — 

He  said  no  more,  but  his  expression  was  not  to 
be  mistaken. 

1  assured  him  that  his  strong  will  and  unswerving 
resolve  to  do  right  would  bear  him  through,  and 
predicted  a  prosperous  issue  to  his  journey,  and  a 
happy  return  to  his  family. 

He  seemed  very  grateful  for  the  encouragement, 
adding  that  when  a  young  man's  family  opposed 
his  efforts,  it  made  the  battle  doubly  hard.  I  then 
cited  examples  of  many  of  the  self-made  men  of 
our  time,  and  at  last  succeeded  in  lightening  the  sad 
reflections  which  weighed  so  heavily  upon  his  mind. 


In  Alaskan  Waters  129 

A  short,  burly  man,  of  perhaps  forty-five  years, 
seemed  to  be  the  leader  among  the  seekers  after 
fortune.  He  possessed  an  inexhaustible  fund  of 
anecdotes  relating  to  adventures  in  the  gold  fields, 
and  the  numerous  parties  he  had  escorted  thither — 
telling  how  some  had  won  untold  wealth,  others,  a 
competence,  while  a  few  had  returned  to  their 
homes  neither  richer  nor  better  for  their  varied  ex- 
perience. This  man  developed  an  especial  fondness 
for  my  society;  whenever  opportunity  offered,  he 
was  at  my  side,  discussing  the  prospects  of  certain 
localities,  and  displaying  his  teally  extensive  knowl- 
edge of  the  country.  Only  in  the  last  days  of  the 
voyage  did  I  learn  the  reason  of  this  apparent  prefer- 
ence. He  wanted  me  to  capitalize  a  company,  en- 
gaging him  as  chief  prospector;  and  promised  to 
lead  the  party  to  a  spot  where  gold  was  to  be 
found  in  greater  abundance  than  in  the  Philadelphia 
or  San  Francisco  Mints.  I  assured  him  that  gold 
was  ofttimes  more  abundant  in  the  pocket  of  a  cap- 
italist before  his  investment  in  the  gold  fields  than 
afterwards.  And  we  parted  without  profit  on  either 
side. 

Although  we  are  generally  surrounded  by  scenes 
of  unrivalled  beauty,  there  are  days  of  rain  and  fog, 
and  chilly  atmosphere,  when  staterooms  and  saloons 


130  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

are  in  favor.  Then  the  weary  sleep,  others  read  or 
pursue  their  favorite  pastime,  and  only  the  ceaseless 
hammering  of  the  engine  convinces  us  that  we  are 
still  driving  ahead.  The  rain,  clouds  and  wind, 
however,  only  increase  our  confidence  in  our  gallant 
Captain,  who  will  not  fail  to  lead  us  through  these 
narrow  straits  in  safety,  and  with  the  greatest  pos- 
sible comfort. 

We  slumber  serenely  through  the  hours  that  be- 
long to  night,  and  awaken  joyously,  with  the  sun 
shining  in  our  windows,  and  nature  once  more  in 
her  old  enchanting  mood  bidding  us  come  on  deck 
and  worship  at  her  shrine.  In  Milbank  Sound  the 
views  are  most  inspiring — mountains  loom  up  to  a 
great  height  close  beside  us,  and  their  fresh  green 
foliage  adds  its  charm  to  the  early  morning  effect. 
The  more  distant  slopes  seem  robed  in  deepest  pur- 
ple, while  their  lofty  peaks  are  veiled  in  mist  which 
grows  more  transparent  as  the  day  advances,  and 
slowly  rises  in  faint  filmy  clouds.  The  air  is  still 
moist,  and  afar  heavy  shadows  encroach  upon  the 
blue,  as  though  warning  us  not  to  count  upon  a 
whole  day  of  sunshine.  Dwarf  pines  and  firs  cover 
the  numberless  small  islands  to  the  water's  edge. 

Early  this  morning  I  was  informed  by  several  of 
the  passengers,  that  a  moose  with  great  antlers  had 


In  Alaskan  Waters  131 

been  seen  swimming  across  the  sound,  just  ahead 
of  the  steamer.  He  did  not  appear  at  all  frightened, 
but  went  quietly  on  his  way,  evidently  trusting  to 
the  friendliness  of  the  ship's  company.  Later  in  the 
day,  I  heard  the  story  repeated,  but  this  time  the 
moose  had  no  antlers.  Again  I  listen,  as  a  fellow- 
passenger  relates  the  incident,  and  he  declares  the 
moose,  with  or  without  horns,  to  be  a  deer.  I 
wonder  if  the  creature  may  not  prove  to  be  a  bear — 
or  a  whale — according  to  the  mind  of  the  next  ob- 
serving narrator. 

In  the  distance  a  small  lighthouse  stands  upon  a 
point  of  rock,  blinking  at  us,  as  one  who  wakens 
confusedly  after  heavy  slumber.  The  sun  shines 
upon  its  windows  with  dazzling  effect. 

As  we  arrive  at  Graham's  Reach,  I  say  to  myself: 
"So  far,  all  is  well,  we  have  had  a  safe  and  pleas- 
ant voyage!  "  We  have  sailed  through  a  labyrinth 
of  waterways  of  every  description;  myriads  of 
islands  surround  us,  whose  rugged  shores  and  pic- 
turesque harbors  often  invite  us  to  pause  and  view 
more  closely  their  charming  shores.  Towering 
mountains,  whose  caps  are  white  and  whose  skirts 
are  green  have  watched  our  passage  through  the 
straits  and  sounds,  and  many  a  rushing  cascade  has 
tumbled  at  our  feet,  in  its  haste  to  come  down  ere 


132  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

we  had  vanished  around  the  curve.  Nov/  and  then 
a  tierce  torrent  has  beset  us,  or  rude,  gigantic  crag, 
like  the  ogres  of  old,  has  tried  to  bar  the  way;  but 
we  have  pursued  our  course  serenely,  accompanied 
by  an  ever-changing  panorama  of  exquisite  views, 
of  noble  and  magnificent  scenery. 

On  our  left  lies  the  Princess  Royal  Island,  on  the 
right,  the  country  of  British  Columbia.  The  waters 
through  which  we  sail  are  smooth  and  placid,  re- 
flecting the  glowing  scenes  in  all  the  harmony  of 
their  rich  coloring.  The  sun  adds  a  radiant  glory, 
and  the  mountains  beneath  his  rays  become  more 
gorgeous  in  their  royal  robes,  while  those  in  shadow 
wear  softer  shades,  in  charming  contrast  to  their 
brilliant  neighbors.  Here  and  there  upon  the  slopes 
are  the  marks  of  great  landslides. 

These  regions  are  ideal  haunts  for  the  bear,  the 
elk,  moose  and  other  wild  creatures  who  love  to 
roam  far  from  the  resorts  of  humankind.  The  rain- 
fall at  certain  seasons,  is  remarkable  in  this  locality. 
The  storms  are  so  sudden  and  unexpected,  that  one 
needs  to  be  prepared  at  all  times  for  such  emer- 
gencies. 

As  a  small  steamer  comes  in  sight,  the  signal  is 
given  by  some  of  the  passengers  on  board  the 
"Queen,"  and  about  forty  of  the  ship's  company 


In  Alaskan  Waters  133 

run  to  the  port  side  to  give  her  greeting.  She 
proves  to  be  the  Steamship  "Coquittam,"  a  small 
freighter,  bound  for  Vancouver.  The  air  resounds 
with  cheers  from  both  vessels;  then  appear  the  ever 
active,  indefatigable  camera  fiends,  aiming  their 
deadly  weapons  at  the  harmless  stranger.  As  she 
glides  abreast  of  our  steamer, — bang — bang — bang! 
What  a  volley  of  ammunition  is  fired  off — remind- 
ing one  of  a  sham  battle,  where  there  is  much 
smoke  but  no  bloodshed. 

The  mountains  on  both  sides  of  the  channel  slope 
to  the  water's  edge.  Their  summits  are  barren,  and 
only  mosses  and  lichen  are  visible  upon  their 
rugged  sides.  Many  lovely  cascades  appear  here, 
foaming,  pitching,  and  plunging  into  the  placid 
waters  below. 

When  we  ascend  to  the  promenade  deck  after 
luncheon,  mist  and  rain  have  again  changed  the 
face  of  our  surroundings.  As  it  is  impossible  to  sit 
on  deck,  we  return  to  our  staterooms,  from  their 
windows  to  enjoy  what  we  may  of  the  passing 
scenes:  but  the  patter  of  raindrops  soon  ceases, 
"  Old  Glory  "  shines  forth  once  more,  and  the  pic- 
tures are  now  so  fresh  and  clear,  the  air  so  in- 
vigorating, that  passengers  assemble  from  every 
part  of  the  ship  to  enjoy  them.     The  air  is  generally 


1 34  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

balmy  and  delightful,  the  colder  temperature  being 
experienced  only  when  the  winds  blow  directly 
from  those  frozen  heights  above  us. 

Upon  the  bank  of  a  small  sluice  in  Graham's 
Reach  is  a  large  Salmon  Cannery.  Great  numbers 
of  fish  are  caught  in  these  waters  by  the  natives. 
There  are  numerous  other  canneries  in  the  neigh- 
borhood, and  many  steamers  ply  to  and  fro,  bearing 
thousands  of  cases  of  salmon,  besides  hundreds  of 
tons  of  halibut,  cod  and  mackerel  to  the  ports  of 
the  States. 

It  is  a  great  pleasure  to  look  through  a  powerful 
field-glass  up  to  those  barren  heights.  How  bleak 
and  bare  they  are!  It  scarcely  seems  possible  that 
while  we  are  basking  in  the  rays  of  the  sun,  furious 
storms  are  raging  on  the  mountain  tops.  As  I 
gaze  in  silent  awe  and  admiration,  two  eagles  ap- 
pear in  that  great  ahitude,  floating  about  with  such 
ease  and  grace,  that  I  envy  them,  and  v/onder  in 
what  age  man  will  perfect. his  experiments  in  fly- 
ing, so  that  we  too  shall  "mount  up  on  wings  as 
the  eagle."  Some  time,  somewhere  shall  all  our  as- 
pirations be  fulfilled.  When  we  have  reached  that 
stage,  and  float  airily  through  space,  without  a  care 
for  the  plodders  on  the  lower  plane,  will  we,  I 
wonder,  remember  the  days  of  slow  locomotion. 


In  Alaskan  Waters  135 

and  the  trains  which  to  our  unenhghtened  minds 
seem  now  to  bear  us  onward  with  such  marvellous 
speed  ?  As  I  watch  the  swift  passage  of  those 
majestic  birds,  1  realize  how  slow  indeed  we  are, 
in  comparison  with  the  winged  creature  of  the  air. 

Here  again  are  the  wandering  cascades,  adding 
their  touch  of  fairy  grace  and  life  to  the  mountain 
ranges  which  never  fail  us.  These  great  masses 
are  of  every  size  and  shape,  wondrous,  lofty, 
magnificent  and  sublime;  now  looking  down  upon 
us,  with  the  brightness  of  the  sun  upon  their  faces, 
and  reveling  in  robes  of  luxuriant  green;  now  with 
stern  and  icy  mien,  bleak,  rugged,  inaccessible,  un- 
cared  for  save  by  the  winds  which  hover  round 
their  summits,  and  the  constant  water  at  their  feet 
which  ever  bears  their  images  upon  its  bosom.  Be 
they  stern  or  smiling,  whether  clad  in  noble  ever- 
greens, or  harshly  thrusting  forth  rude  crags  and 
giant  boulders,  their  lover  is  still  the  same.  Even 
when  they  fling  down  rocks  and  spoil  her  pictures, 
she  simply  gathers  herself  together  again,  smiles 
back  upon  them,  and  holds  their  images  in  her  heart 
forever. 


Through  the 

Archipelago  to  Wrangel 


CHAPTER  V 

Through  the  Archipelago  to  Wrangel 

Baker's  Inlet — Sea-gulls  and  Eagles — A  Recluse — Storms — 
Metlakahtla — A  Christian  Village — Persecution — Wrecks — 
Brown's  Pass  —  Sunset  —  A  Gorgeous  Pageant  —  Dundas 
Islands — The  International  Boundary  Line — In  American 
Waters — Annette  Island — New  Metlakahtlans — Their  Rules 
— Industries — Ketchikan — A  Dismal  Town — The  National 
Holiday — The  Program  of  the  Sports — Tongas  Narrows — A 
Difficult  Pass — Prince  of  Wales  Island — Change  of  Route — 
Clarence  Strait — Native  Tribes — Wrangel — Front  Street — 
Dilapidated  Buildings  —  Numerous  Dogs  —  Dealers  —  Old 
Woman — Shops — "  Hunter's  Rest  " — Photographs — Totem 
Poles — A  Christian  Pastor — "  The  Northern  Light  " — Tide- 
water Glacier — The  Spirit  of  the  Thunder  Bird — Arctic  Re- 
gions— The  Home  of  the  Walrus  and  Seal — Sumner  Strait — 
Land  of  the  Kakes  — "  Good-Night,  or  Good-Day  ?  " 

S  we  approach  Baker's  Inlet,  the  scenes  in- 
crease in  beauty  and  grandeur,  the  colors 
of  land   and   water   are  superb,  and  the 
floating  clouds  continually  assume  more 
Jairylike  shapes. 

A  few  sea-gulls  fly  in  our  wake,  watching  for  the 
biscuits  which  the  passengers  and  sailors  now  and 
then  throw  to  them. 

139 


140  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

Many  eagles  may  also  be  seen,  circling  about  at 
lofty  heights. 

1  presume  they  are  American  eagles,  and  like  our- 
selves, in  British  territory  only  as  visitors. 

Occasionally  the  little  cabin  of  a  solitary  Indian 
may  be  seen  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  or  close 
by  a  rushing  waterfall. 

The  recluse  who  dwells  in  this  solitary  spot,  de- 
pends solely  upon  his  gun  and  rod  for  his  subsist- 
ence. The  mental  history  of  such  an  one  must  be 
most  interesting.  Nature  is  his  only  companion. 
To  him  she  yields  her  cherished  secrets:  to  him  the 
winds  whisper  a  mysterious  language,  as  he  sits  by 
his  lonely  fireside;  he  can  interpret  the  notes  of  the 
birds,  and  he  is  known  among  all  the  wild  creatures 
that  dwell  in  the  forests.  Only  to  human  life  he  is 
a  stranger,  and  none  may  come  to  him  and  speak 
his  own  language. 

As  the  evening  hour  draws  near,  many  of  the 
passengers  assemble  on  the  bow  of  the  steamer, 
and  much  pleasant  conversation  ensues.  We 
are  like  a  large  family,  each  one  in  turn  con- 
tributing something  to  the  entertainment  of  the 
others.  When  we  see  in  the  distance  a  steamer 
gliding  gracefully  through  the  water  towards  us, 
many  are   the   speculations   as  to  her  destination, 


Through  the  Archipelago  to  Wrangel    143 

her  company  and  her  experience  in  these  northern 
seas. 

It  is  strange  to  see  the  grass  and  trees  growing  so 
closely  to  the  water's  edge,  and  yet  displaying  such 
beautiful  and  vivid  greens:  for  the  straits  and  other 
passes  here  are  all  of  briny  taste,  coming,  as  they 
do,  from  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

The  air,  even  after  rain,  is  not  so  humid  as  in  the 
states,  but  dry  and  exhilarating. 

How  suddenly  the  storms  come  upon  us!  The 
rains  are  so  frequent  as  to  remind  one  of  the  story 
of  the  traveller  who  asked  a  little  Scotch  girl  in  the 
Valley  of  Glencoe  if  it  rained  there  every  day;  and 
the  little  maid's  reply:  "No,  sir,  it  sometimes 
snows."  We  pass  the  deserted  village  of  Metla- 
kahtla,  once  a  beautiful  colony  and  flourishing  com- 
munity, where  for  twenty-seven  years  the  mission- 
ary, William  Duncan,  had  gathered  together  from 
the  various  islands  a  Christian  village  of  a  thousand 
Indians.  By  his  individual  efforts,  he  raised  these 
people  from  barbarism  to  self-respecting,  industri- 
ous citizens,  who  kept  the  laws  and  followed  all 
the  pursuits  of  the  white  men.  Here  the  people 
lived  in  peace  and  prosperity  until  their  leader  was 
driven  from  the  island  by  the  official  persecutions 
of  both  church  and  state. 


144  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

Mr.  Duncan  settled  upon  Annette  Island,  the 
nearest  American  shore,  and  was  followed  thither 
by  many  hundreds  of  his  people,  who  cheerfully 
abandoned  their  homes  and  all  their  cherished  pos- 
sessions to  share  the  life  of  their  beloved  pastor. 
The  forsaken  village  soon  fell  into  ruins,  and  the 
forest  sent  out  its  armies  of  underbrush  to  reclaim 
the  land  which  had  been  cleared  and  portioned  off 
into  thrifty  farms  and  homesteads. 

Our  progress  is  not  very  rapid,  in  consequence  of 
the  extreme  caution  which  is  necessary  at  all  times. 
There  have  been  numerous  wrecks  in  this  vicinity, 
owing  to  the  fact  that  all  the  dangerous  spots  have 
not  been  discovered  and  marked.  About  half-past  , 
nine  we  enter  Brown's  Pass,  a  noteworthy  occasion, 
marked  by  the  rocking  of  the  steamer  when  we 
come  into  direct  contact  with  the  waters  of  the 
Pacific.  Many  of  the  passengers  are  quite  sick  at 
such  times,  which,  fortunately,  are  of  rare  occur- 
rence. The  evening  view  ofiF  Dundas  Island  is  un- 
surpassed in  loveliness.  Long  slanting  rays  of  sun- 
light glide  down  and  touch  the  surface  of  the 
water,  and  lo,  as  if  by  magic,  the  fogs  that  infest 
the  way  "fold  their  tents  like  the  Arabs,  and  as 
silently  steal  away,"  amid  a  wondrous  glory  of  soft 
prismatic  hues.    The  mountains  are  gorgeous  in  the 


Through  the  Archipelago  to  Wrangel    145 

sunset  light,  the  clouds  and  water,  rich  in  color, 
dazzling  in  effect,  it  seems  as  though  nothing  in 
the  whole  realm  of  nature  can  rival  the  beauty  of 
this  scene. 

One  last  supreme  effort,  and  the  sinking  monarch 
flings  out  all  the  most  brilliant  glories  of  his  treas- 
ure house.  Violet,  crimson  and  gold  gleam  forth 
in  all  their  resplendent  shades,  and  indescribable 
magnificence,  for  a  few  short  fleeting  moments, — 
then  suddenly  all  grows  dim,  the  great  King  falls 
back,  exhausted,  the  fires  are  extinguished,  and  the 
gorgeous  scene  has  melted  into  the  glow  of  a 
silvery  twilight.  So  swift  has  been  the  transforma- 
tion that  with  a  slightly  dazed  feeling,  we  wonder 
if  we  have  not  been  the  subjects  of  an  illusion, 

"  A  flattering  dream, 
A  watery  bubble  lighter  than  the  air." 

While  passing  through  Chatham  Sound,  we  have 
a  full  view  of  the  picturesque  Dundas  Islands,  three 
in  number — Dundas,  Middle  Dundas  and  South 
Dundas.  Beyond  these  islands  is  a  small  space  of 
open  sea,  upon  which  we  rock  as  if  in  a  storm.  The 
wit  of  the  party  asks  me  gravely  how  1  account  for 
our  sudden  change  of  motion  ? — I  reply  that  doubt- 
less the  tremendous  upheaval  is  caused  by  our  ship 


146  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

crossing  the  International  boundary  line,  and  that 
probably  our  bow  and  propeller  have  become  en- 
tangled in  the  line.  He  looks  at  me  darkly,  and 
Vv'alks  silently  away.  From  this  time  onward  we 
are  in  American  waters,  a  fact  which  sends  a  thrill 
of  pride  through  the  heart  of  the  American  born 
citizen,  who  is  naturally  happy  in  the  progress  and 
possessions  of  his  country.  The  air  seems  more  de- 
lightful here,  the  scenery  has  a  newer  charm,  as  we 
scan  the  country  far  and  wide,  and  know  that  we 
own  it  all. 

We  are  now  abreast  of  Annette  Island,  upon 
whose  shores  the  Metlakahtlans,  or,  as  they  are 
termed,  the  New  Metlakahtlans,  have  found  refuge. 
These  people  obtained  from  the  United  States  Gov- 
ernment the  reservation  of  the  island  for  their  own 
use,  subject  to  their  own  administration.  The  fol- 
lowing are  the  rules  which  are  signed  by  all  resi- 
dents on  the  island: 

1.  To  reverence  the  Sabbath,  and  to  refrain  from 
all  unnecessary  secular  work  on  that  day;  to  attend 
divine  worship;  to  take  the  Bible  for  our  rule  of 
faith;  to  regard  all  true  Christians  as  our  brethren; 
and  to  be  truthful,  honest,  and  industrious. 

2.  To  be  faithful  and  loyal  to  the  Government 
and  laws  of  the  United  States. 


Through  the  Archipelago  to  Wrangel    147 

3.  To  render  our  votes  when  called  upon  for  the 
election  of  the  Town  Council,  and  to  promptly  obey 
the  by-laws  and  orders  imposed  by  the  said  Coun- 
cil. 

4.  To  attend  to  the  education  of  our  children  and 
keep  them,  at  school  as  regularly  as  possible. 

5.  To  totally  abstain  from  all  intoxicants  and 
gambling,  and  never  attend  heathen  festivities  or 
countenance  heathen  customs  in  surrounding  vil- 
lages. 

6.  To  strictly  carry  out  all  sanitary  regulations 
necessary  for  the  health  of  the  town. 

7.  To  identify  ourselves  with  the  progress  of  the 
settlement,  and  to  utilize  the  land  we  hold. 

8.  Never  to  alienate,  give  away,  or  sell  our  land, 
or  building  lots,  or  any  portion  thereof,  to  any  per- 
son or  persons  who  have  not  subscribed  to  these 
rules. 

The  chief  industry  of  the  people  is  salmon  fishing, 
but  all  the  occupations  of  the  white  man  are  followed 
here.  The  silversmiths  are  remarkable  for  their  de- 
signs in  bracelets  and  other  forms  of  jewelry,  the 
carvers  perform  artistic  work,  and  the  beautiful  col- 
ored baskets,  woven  by  the  women,  find  a  ready 
sale. 

1  am   more   than  disappointed  that  our  steamer 


148  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

cannot  make  a  short  stop  here,  as  I  would  like  to 
visit  this  independent  Christian  community.  We 
reach  Ketchikan  at  nine  o'clock  in  the  evening,  and 
in  consequence  of  a  dense  fog,  remain  here  till 
morning.  Here  we  have  the  novel  experience  of  be- 
holding the  wharf,  which  on  our  arrival  lies  level  with 
the  ship,  tower  fifteen  feet  above  us  on  the  follow- 
ing morning.  This  seems  quite  astonishing  until 
one  remembers  the  ebb  and  flow  of  the  tide  in  this 
region.  The  town  is  forlorn  and  dismal  in  appear- 
ance: houses,  people,  atmosphere,  all  have  a  de- 
pressing effect.  Although  situated  in  one  of  the 
richest  fishing  sections,  it  has  no  attractions  for  the 
visitor.  As  I  step  ashore  soon  after  breakfast,  the 
first  sight  that  greets  my  eyes  is  the  body  of  a  sui- 
cide, surrounded  by  a  little  group  of  natives. 

Upon  inquiry  I  learn  that  the  deceased  was  a  dis- 
sipated young  man,  who  came  here  penniless  and 
friendless:  failing  in  his  efforts  to  make  money,  or 
perhaps  using  recklessly  what  little  he  earned,  he 
thus  suddenly  ended  the  struggle,  trusting,  it  may 
be,  to  the  mercy  of  a  kind  Providence,  in  the  hope 
that  in  some  future  existence  he  may  be  granted  an 
opportunity  to  retrieve  the  faults  and  mistakes  of 
this  life.  As  I  watch  them  bear  him  to  the  public 
burial-ground,  I  think: 


Through  the  Archipelago  to  Wrangel    149 

"  How  peaceful,  and  how  powerful  is  the  grave!  " 
Our  national  holiday  is  at  hand,  and  it  is  interest- 
ing to  observe  the  preparations  being  made  to  cele- 
brate it  in  this  out-of-the-way  region.  I  copy  the 
following  program  of  sports,  as  an  illustration  of 
the  diversions  of  the  residents  in  these  Northern  dis- 
tricts. 

Programme  for  Celebrating  the  Fourth  of  July  at  Ketchikan. 

W.  W.  Catlin,  -  -  Orator. 

D.  Smith  Harris,  -  Reader  of  Declaration  of  Independence. 

Reception  Committee, 

W.  J.  Broderick,  F.  N.  Whitney  and  W.  L.  Yost. 

Music  Committee, 

Charles  Urquhart,  J.  J.  Campbell  and  Samuel  Giryot. 

Committee  on  Fireworks, 

W.  A.  Patterson,  Gus  May  and  Frank  Gingrass. 

Committee  and  Judges  of  Sports. 


Indian  Canoe  Race. 

Klutchman's  Canoe  Race. 
I.  R.  Hickman,  M.  E.  Martin,  W.  J.  Donley. 
Course,  from  buoy  front  of  Young's  store,  New  Town,  to  buoy, 
«fl  Ketchikan  Wharf,  and  return  to  starting  point. 

First  Prize,  ^50,00.     Second  Prize,  ;?25,oo. 


Rock  Drilling  Contest. 
W.  H.  Gilman,  George  McKenzie,  S.  Listchinstader. 
Team  and  Single  handed.  -  Time,  15  minutes,  yi  Steel- 
Prizes:    Team:     First,  $50,00.     Second,  ;?25,co. 
Single :   First,  ;?25,oo.     Second,  $io,c». 


150  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

Yacht  Race. 
L.  A.  Babcock,  Peter  McKinnin,  Harry  Ininan. 
Course,  starting  line  front  of  wharf,  sail  to  buoy  at  Saxman, 
thence  to  buoy  off  Charcoal  point,  and  back  to  starting  point. 

All  boats  wishing  to  enter,  must  apply  to  the  judges  on  July  3d 
for  measurements. 

First  Prize,  ^50,00.     Second  Prize,  §25,0x5. 


Rifle  Practice. 

A.  H.  WTiite,  James  Bannedin,  Samuel  Guyot. 

100  and  300  yards,  -  Open  Sight. 

First  Prize,  ;?50,oo.    Second  Prize,  $25,00. 


Tug  of  War  vs.  Tug  of  War. 
Whites  vs.  Indians.  Kids. 

Ed.  Stanley,  W.  A.  Patterson,  R.  E.  McCoombs. 


Rowing  Race. 

Same  course  as  canoes. 

Otto  Inman,  J.  H.  Garrett,  A.  L.  Hoodley. 


Catching  Greased  Siwash  Dog. 
Ham.  Anderson,  Jack  Hannot. 


General  Field  Sports,  etc. 

For  further  particulars,  see  committee. 

J.  W.StedmanI    Finance 
W.  A.  Bryant  \   ^       %^ 
J.  Boyd  Young]    Committee. 

Ketchikan  is  surrounded  by  a  rich  mineral  region, 
and,  besides  its  Salmon  Cannery,  which  sends  out 
fifteen    thousand    cases  annually,   it  has  extensive 


Through  the  Archipelago  to  Wrangel    151 

halibut  fisheries,  and  a  large  sawmill,  run  by  In- 
dians. After  leaving  this  island  we  steam  through 
Tongas  Narrows,  a  channel  scarcely  wider  than 
that  of  an  ordinary  river,  lying  between  steep 
mountain  walls.  It  is  like  many  other  straits  in 
these  waters,  a  difficult  piece  of  navigation,  and 
only  by  extreme  watchfulness  and  the  perfect 
knowledge  of  the  pilot,  is  our  safe  passage  assured. 
Three  officers  are  constantly  on  the  bridge,  on  the 
lookout  for  the  dangerous  points. 

Although  a  long  experience  in  these  waters 
renders  them  confident,  they  never  relax  their 
vigilant  watch. 

The  day  is  charming, — one  of  the  finest  passed 
upon  these  seas;  the  scenery,  as  ever,  delightful, 
although  it  has  been  surpassed  at  other  points  along 
our  route.  We  are  abreast  of  Prince  of  Wales 
Island,  the  largest  of  the  Alexander  Archipelago. 
It  is  two  hundred  miles  in  length,  and  from  twenty 
to  sixty  in  breadth,  and  shelters  us  from  the  rough 
current  of  the  Pacific.  Lofty  mountains,  pictur- 
esque lakes  and  magnificent  forests  beautify  this 
island;  stately  cedars  rise  to  a  height  of  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty-five  feet,  with  trunks  five  and  six 
feet  in  diameter,  and  many  fine  salmon  streams 
empty  into   its   lakes  and  bays.     Portions   of  the 


15'2  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

island  are  associated  with  the  early  history  of  this 
country. 

The  fog  at  Ketchikan  delayed  us  six  hours,  in 
consequence  of  which,  it  is  said,  we  are  obliged  to 
go  around  by  Dry  Island,  and  thus,  a  hundred  miles 
out  of  our  course;  but  we  are  not  particular  as  to 
time,  so  no  one  objects  to  this. 

The  scenery  along  Clarence  Strait  is  much  the 
same  as  that  which  precedes  it,  the  mountains  pre- 
senting lovely  green  slopes  which  are  restful  to  the 
eye.  We  have  all  grown  so  familiar  with  these 
picturesque  views,  that  we  sometimes  find  our- 
selves assuming  a  critical  attitude  towards  Nature, 
and  feeling  aggrieved  if  each  new  prospect  does 
not  exceed  in  grandeur  and  beauty  all  that  has  gone 
before.  So  we  sit  on  deck,  judging  and  compar- 
ing, and  as  for  many  of  those  around  us,  it  would 
be  impossible  to  stir  them  to  enthusiasm,  unless 
perhaps  a  gold  mine  should  open  at  their  feet,  and 
offer  to  them  its  inexhaustible  store  of  treasures. 

The  waters  of  the  strait  are  placid,  as  usual,  and 
so  deep  as  to  appear  of  inky  blackness  beneath  the 
mountain  walls — so  black,  that  still  more  difificult 
grows  the  task  of  avoiding  its  hidden  dangers. 

We  have  just  learned  that  the  steamer  has  again 
changed  her  course,  and  instead  of  going  around 


Through  the  Archipelago  to  Wrangel    153 

Dry  Island  to  avoid  Wrangel  Narrows,  we  are  to 
make  our  original  route,  from  Wrangel,  by  Sumner 
Strait  to  Labouchere  Bay,  thence  by  Cape  Decision, 
up  Christiana  Sound  to  Pillar's  Bay  and  Frederick 
Sound,  and  continue  our  course  up  Stephen's  Pas- 
sage to  Juneau. 

Before  going  farther  in  these  northern  latitudes, 
it  may  be  well  to  give  some  account  of  the  native 
tribes  inhabiting  them,  and  the  peculiar  character- 
istics of  these  people.  With  this  view,  I  copy  here 
an  extract  from  one  of  the  many  articles  written  on 
the  subject. 

"The  nations  of  Alaska  are  divided  into  many 
villages,  but  are  grouped  under  three  general  classes 
— Innuits  or  Eskimos,  who  inhabit  the  coast — Ten- 
neh,  of  the  Yukon  district,  and  the  Aleuts,  who  live 
on  the  islands  of  the  Western  Archipelago.  The 
natives  are  frequently  spoken  of  as  Indians,  yet  they 
are  different  from  the  red  men  of  the  United  States 
in  appearance,  habits  and  customs.  They  seem  to 
have  had  a  Japanese  origin,  have  Mongolian  cast  of 
features,  and,  unlike  our  Indians,  are  naturally  in- 
telligent, with  industrious  habits,  keen  in  trade, 
good  mechanical  ideas,  quick  to  learn,  while  some 
are  very  skillful  in  carving  wood,  bone  and  metal. 
Some  of  them  have  become  good  home  builders. 


1 54  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

They  are,  of  course,  very  superstitious.  Visitors 
will  remember  a  variety  of  racial  and  tribal  titles,  as 
Tlingits,  Haidas,  Metlakahtlans,  Chilkats,  Hoonahs, 
Auks,  Takus,  Sitkans,  and  the  like,  but  the  tribes  of 
Tlingits  race  will  be  the  ones  most  generally  met 
with  in  the  Sitka  trip,  because  they  constitute  the 
native  population  of  southeastern  Alaska." 

At  noon  we  sight  Wrangel,  nestling  cosily  among 
her  hills. 

A  massive,  snow-covered  mountain  rises  in  the 
background,  while  her  sides  are  guarded  by  lofty 
hills,  whose  graceful  slopes  are  covered  with  ver- 
dure. The  city  of  Wrangel  is  situated  upon  the 
island  of  that  name,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Stikine 
River.  As  we  approach  the  town  by  the  harbor, 
the  houses  seem  low  and  squatty,  but  the  prevailing 
color,  white,  is  artistic,  with  here  and  there  a  red 
building,  by  way  of  contrast. 

Picturesque  churches  are  scattered  throughout  the 
town,  and  now  as  we  sail  abreast  of  it,  the  enthu- 
siastic amateur  with  his  camera  pushes  every  one 
unceremoniously  aside,  and  makes  one  "snap  shot" 
after  another  of  the  neighboring  views.  The  gang- 
plank is  lowered,  and  as  Vv'e  step  ashore,  a  huge 
sign,  swinging  from  the  ship's  side,  announces  that 
we  have  three  hours  in  which  to  explore  the  town. 


P.\ssi.\(i  S.  S.  .\i--Ki,  LiiATiiAM  Sound 


Sec  page  145 


Through  the  Archipelago  to  Wrangel    157 

How  delighted  we  are  to  stretch  our  hmbs,  and 
walk  once  more  on  terra  firma. 

Wishing  to  see  as  much  as  possible  in  the  short 
time  allowed  us,  we  seek  the  main  street  of  the 
place,  known  as  Front  Street,  and  facing  the 
harbor.  It  runs  straight  through  the  town,  a  dis- 
tance of  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile.  The  board 
walk  along  which  we  make  our  way,  is  so  shaky, 
the  buildings  on  each  side  so  dilapidated,  that  one's 
glance  wanders  timorously  from  the  loose  and 
broken  planks  to  the  apparently  tottering  houses,  in 
constant  dread  of  a  sudden  and  general  collapse. 
Here  are  numerous  dogs  of  every  size,  shape  and 
color,  but  among  them  all,  there  is  not  one  you 
would  like  to  carry  away  as  a  memento  of  this 
town.  The  inhabitants  are  not  more  attractive  than 
the  dogs,  all  seeming  to  be  relics  of  an  era  previous 
to  the  institution  of  the  morning  bath. 

Families  sit  on  the  dingy  porches  of  the  palsied 
houses,  offering  for  sale  uninviting  wares  of  their 
own  handiwork;  such  as  baskets,  diminutive  totem 
poles,  bead  and  shell  work,  etc.,  but  seem  perfectly 
indifferent  as  to  whether  any  one  purchases  their 
goods  or  not.  Here  an  old  woman,  sitting  before 
her  shanty,  washes  some  garments,  which  as  she 
hangs  them  in  the  sun  to  dry,  look  past  all  redemp- 


158  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

tion  in  the  way  of  cleanliness.  Her  age  is  such  that 
she  cannot  have  many  years  to  live,  so  that  to 
change  her  in  thought  or  habits  would  be  an  im- 
possibility. The  shops,  such  as  they  are,  line  one 
side  of  this  street.  Some  of  them  display  signs  in 
the  windows,  such  as:  Hardware;  Curios;  Drugs; 
Men's,  Boys',  and  Children's  Clothing;  and  here  too 
is  the  Fort  Wrangel  Brewery.  A  little  apart  from 
the  others,  is  a  building  of  one  story,  with  rude 
porch  and  dilapidated  roof,  set  about  fifteen  paces 
back  from  the  sidewalk,  and  bearing  the  sign : 

"Hunter's  Rest. 
Beer  Hall." 

I  shudder  at  the  thought  of  rest  and  comfort  in 
this  tumble-down  and  dismal  looking  place.  Loung- 
ing about  its  antiquated  portal  are  about  a  dozen 
presumable  hunters, — or  perhaps  thirsty  followers 
of  Gambrinus.  These  men  have  a  restless,  haggard 
and  dogged  expression,  as  though  life,  from  their 
standpoint,  had  not  proved  very  satisfactory. 

I  stop  several  native  old  men  and  women,  and  by 
giving  them  a  trifling  sum  of  money,  am  allowed  to 
take  photographs  of  their  homely  faces.  At  Wran- 
gel, it  is  said,  one  has  his  best  opportunity  of  seeing 
the  old  totem  poles,  which  are  fast  disappearing 


Through  the  Archipelago  to  Wrangel    159 

from  the  southern  part  of  this  country.  We 
find  these  poles  near  the  abodes  of  the  living,  as 
well  as  the  burial-places  of  the  dead.  They  are 
completely  covered  with  carving,  and  vary  in  height 
and  thickness.  As  much  has  been  written  concern- 
ing the  history  and  meaning  of  these  relics,  I  will  in- 
sert here  an  extract  that  may  prove  interesting  to 
the  reader. 

"There  is  a  variety  of  opinions  as  regards  the  real 
signification  of  the  totem  poles.  They  appear  to  be 
designed  to  commemorate  important  deeds  in  the 
lives  of  the  departed,  near  whose  graves  they  stand, 
as  well  as  to  indicate  the  family  arms  or  crest  of 
those  for  whom  they  are  erected. 

"The  different  tribes  have  their  own  characteristic 
emblems,  the  bear,  eagle,  hawk,  whale,  etc.  The 
poles  are  usually  covered  with  carvings  from  bottom 
to  top,  and  the  size  and  height  designate  the  social 
status  and  wealth  of  the  individual  in  his  tribe." — 
Again:  "The  crow  or  raven  upon  the  pole  is  sup- 
posed to  represent  Noneau,  the  creative  principle, 
and  the  wolf,  the  aggressive  or  fighting  creature. 
These  are  the  totems  of  the  coast,  and  each  is 
subdivided  into  clans.  Men  do  not  marry  women 
of  their  own  totem.  The  totemic  is  stronger  than 
the  family  or  tribal  bond.     Men  often  elect  indi- 


i6o  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

vidual  totems,  usually  the  animal  seen  or  dreamed 
of  during  their  lonely  fasts  in  the  woods  preceding 
their  majority  and  their  initiation  into  the  rites  and 
great  ceremonies  of  the  clan.  These  elective  totems, 
added  to  the  clan  and  family  totems,  account  for 
the  storied  images  on  the  totem  poles.  The  totem 
pole  has  no  religious  significance,  and  is  not  an  ob- 
ject of  idolatrous  worship.  Its  heraldic  designs  and 
quarterings  are  displayed  in  the  same  way  and  for 
the  same  reason  that  the  European  parades  his  crest 
and  Scutcheon." 

One  cannot  help  regretting  the  decline  of  these 
quaint  and  interesting  characteristics  of  the  native 
tribes. 

Seven  or  eight  years  ago,  many  of  these  curious 
poles,  with  their  legendary  carvings,  adorned  the 
lodges  of  the  Stikines'  Village.  Now  but  a  few  are 
left  to  arouse  the  wonder  and  admiration  of  the 
traveller. 

Wrangel  possesses  a  fine  large  harbor,  set  in 
a  picturesque  framework  of  noble  mountains,  with 
loftier,  snow-crowned  peaks  rising  beyond  these  as 
far  as  the  eye  can  see. 

The  land  otter,  the  bear,  the  fox,  the  mink,  and 
other  animals  dwell  in  the  forests,  and  an  abundance 
of  fish  inhabit  the  streams.     The  civilized  portion  of 


Through  the  Archipelago  to  Wrangel    161 

the  town  lies  along  the  shore,  at  the  foot  of  a  hilly 
forest,  between  the  lines  of  low,  square  and  rough 
cabins  of  the  natives.  Here  are  several  stores  for 
the  sale  of  goods  to  the  tribes,  also  for  the  purchase 
of  curios,  furs,  etc.,  by  travellers.  The  place  was 
named  in  honor  of  Baron  Wrangel,  governor  of  Rus- 
sian-America in  1834.  A  garrison  of  United  States 
troops  is  stationed  here,  and  it  can  boast  of  a  news- 
paper, schools  and  churches,  besides  its  sawmill  and 
breweries. 

On  our  way  back  to  the  steamer,  we  came  across 
a  small,  unpretentious  frame  building,  which  proved 
to  be  a  Christian  church.  As  we  stopped  to  ob- 
serve it,  a  pleasant  faced  man  came  from  within, 
greeted  us  kindly,  and  invited  us  to  enter. 

This  was  the  pastor,  who  gave  us  an  interesting 
account  of  his  work  among  a  little  flock  in  this  out- 
of-the-way  country. 

Here  indeed  was  self-sacrifice,  for  the  man  had 
left  a  congenial  home  and  friends,  to  dwell  among 
a  lonely  people,  in  order  to  benefit  and  elevate  them. 
His  sole  aim  in  life  seemed  to  be  to  do  his  duty 
towards  his  Creator  and  his  fellow-creatures.  It 
was  he  who  had  been  instrumental  in  establishing 
The  Norther7i  Light,  a  bi-monthly  paper,  devoted 
to  religious  work  in  Alaska. 


l62  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

"  'Tis  thus  the  spirit  of  a  single  mind 
Makes  that  of  multitudes  take  one  direction." 

"The  readers  of  this  paper,  {The  Northern 
Light),  are  already  acquainted  with  what  changes 
have  come  over  Klanack  during  the  past  year.  The 
work,  though  entirely  unassisted,  except  by  oc- 
casional visits  from  the  pastor  of  the  Wrangel 
Church,  and  by  one  visit  from  Mr.  Marsden,  is 
proving  itself  to  be  wonderfully  permanent.  What 
does  this  phenomenon  suggest?  Does  it  not 
suggest  the  value  of  Salvation  Army  methods  for 
pioneer  mission  work  ?  Bishop  Ridley,  of  the 
Church  of  England,  has  long  recognized  the  value 
of  it,  and  as  a  consequence,  has  organized  what  is 
known  as  the  church  army,  which  has  done  much 
valuable  pioneer  work.  There  are  two  methods  of 
carrying  on  pioneer  work.  One  is  to  attract  atten- 
tion by  gifts,  and  the  other  is  to  do  that  which  ap- 
peals to  the  imagination  of  the  native.  The  former 
is  expensive,  and  pauperizes  the  native;  the  latter 
does  no  harm,  and  prepares  the  way  for  education 
and  instruction.  The  experiences  of  the  last  year 
in  Alaska,  (1900),  have  proved  that  the  Salvation 
Army  methods  are  useful,  and  there  is  no  reason 
why  they  should  not  be  employed,  when  they  can 
be  used  to  advantage." 


Totem  Pole,  Wrangel 


Sec  page  159 


Through  the  Archipelago  to  Wrangel    165 

Our  day  at  Wrangel  was  clear  and  beautiful. 
We  learned  from  a  native  that  it  was  one  of  fifteen 
bright  days  during  the  past  three  months.  Sol  was 
very  good  to  us. 

Here  we  have  our  first  view  of  a  tide  water 
glacier — the  Hutli,  or  Le  Conte  Glacier,  at  the  end 
of  Thunder  Bay,  northeast  of  the  town.  This 
dazzling  iceberg  is  a  magnificent  spectacle,  reflect- 
ing the  rays  of  the  sun  from  myriads  of  sparkling 
points,  as  it  stretches  outward  from  a  deep  canon, 
surrounded  by  stately  forest  trees.  It  presents  a 
pure  white  surface,  half  a  mile  in  width,  and  many 
miles  in  length,  and  contains  numberless  deep 
fissures.  Its  icy  cliffs  rise  from  one  hundred  to  two 
hundred  feet  above  the  waters  of  the  bay,  and  as 
the  glacier  advances,  moving,  it  is  said  twenty- 
seven  feet  a  day,  they  constantly  break  into  huge 
blocks  and  fall  crashing  down  into  the  waters  of 
the  bay,  forming  serious  obstacles  to  navigation. 
The  natives  believe  that  the  mountains  were  once 
embodied  spirits,  and  they  have  long  worshipped 
them.  The  glaciers  are  the  children  of  the  moun- 
tains, and  of  the  ice  spirit,  whose  voice  is  heard  in 
the  angry  roar  of  the  North  wind,  and  in  the 
crackling  of  the  mighty  floes.  "He  hurls  down 
bergs  in  his  wrath,  tosses  them  to  and  fro,  crushes 


i66  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

canoes,  and  washes  the  land  with  great  waves. 
Sitth  is  their  general  name  for  ice,  and  even  their 
dull  imaginations  conceive  a  hell  of  ice,  a  place  of 
everlasting  cold  as  the  future  state  of  those  who  are 
buried  in  the  ground,  instead  of  being  cremated." 

Now  indeed,  we  realize  that  we  are  in  Arctic  re- 
gions— in  the  home  of  the  Seal  and  the  Walrus,  the 
Moose  and  the  Otter,  the  Ptarmigan  and  the  Beaver. 
Occasionally  we  see  a  V  shaped  line  of  ducks  in 
their  rapid  passage  through  the  water,  at  times 
coming  so  close  to  the  steamer,  that  one  who  is 
only  a  moderately  good  shot  could  make  sad  havoc 
in  their  picturesque  procession. 

Leaving  Wrangel,  the  bow  of  our  ship  points  to- 
wards Sumner  Strait  and  the  scenes  are  wild  and 
beautiful,  as  we  turn  and  twist  among  the  islands. 
Wonderful  effects  of  light  and  shade  greet  our  eyes, 
and  densely  wooded  mountains,  in  all  the  harmonies 
of  their  varied  hues  surround  us,  with  here  and 
there  the  shining  edge  of  a  glacier  becoming  visible 
as  we  round  a  point.  At  Cape  Decision,  the  long 
roll  of  waters  coming  from  the  Pacific  Ocean  is 
quite  perceptible.  Here  on  our  right  are  the  Ku- 
preanoff  and  Kuiu  Islands, — the  land  of  Kakes,  of 
which  little  is  known,  as  the  native  tribes  bear  a 
bad  reputation,  and  are  more  dreaded  than  any 


Through  the  Archipelago  to  Wrangel    167 

other  Northern  Indians.  Their  islands  are  covered 
with  thick  forests  of  cedars  and  other  evergreens. 
The  waters  here  are  broad,  and  give  distant  ocean 
views,  which  have  a  charm  peculiarly  their  own. 

Our  ship's  company  is  composed  of  exceptionally 
social  and  agreeable  elements,  the  passengers,  as  a 
rule,  being  more  anxious  to  give  than  to  receive 
pleasure;  consequently  many  delightful  hours  have 
been  passed  on  board,  and  not  a  few  of  them  will 
live  in  our  hearts  and  memories  forever.  It  is  now 
half-past  eight,  and  while  the  hour  denotes  the  ap- 
proach of  night,  the  sun  is  shining  on  deck  with 
noonday  splendor.  As  I  sit  serenely  enjoying  the 
never  failing  beauty  of  the  panorama,  a  passenger 
passing  wishes  me  "Good-night,  and  pleasant 
dreams."  I  arouse  myself,  and  look  about  me.  Is 
it  possible  that  this  is  night?  "Good-night,"  I 
reply,  "but  surely  it  would  be  more  fitting  to  say 
'Good-day.'" 


Juneau,  and  the 

Famous  Treadwell  Mine 


CHAPTER  VI 

Juneau f  and  the  Famous  Treadwell  Mine 

Juneau — Flashing  Cascades — A  Varying  Population — Curio  Shops 
— Seward  Street — Newspapers — Grand  Concert — On  Juneau 
Hill — Enchanting  Views — Fickle  Dame  Fortune — The 
Methodist  Church — A  Gay  Social  Atmosphere — Fisheries — 
Native  Women — National  Holidays — The  Volunteer  Fire 
Brigade — Douglas  Island — Artillery  of  the  Mine — The 
Greatest  Quartz  Mill  in  the  World — Pantomime — Gold  Quartz 
— Miners'  Pay — A  Dissatisfied  Group — The  Village — III 
Luck — John  Treadwell — A  Chance  Investment — Lynn  Canal 
— A  Magnificent  Panorama — Eagle  Glacier — I^ower  Tempera- 
ture— The  Great  Auk — Icy  Summits — A  Performing  Whale 
— Brothers  and  Sisters — A  Brief  Night — A  Shower — The 
Rainbow — Chilkoot  Inlet — At  Midnight — Skagway — A  City 
of  Rapid  Growth — Newspapers — The  Future  of  the  Town. 


HE  first  scene  that  greets  our  eyes  this 
morning  is  the  city  of  Juneau  nestling 
cosily  at  the  foot  of  a  great  mountain  on 
our  right,  while  on  the  left  is  the  pictur- 
esque Douglas  island,  with  its  tall  peaks  rising  a 
thousand  feet  or  more  above  the  sea.  As  we  ap- 
proach Juneau,  we  are  charmed  with  the  many 
beautiful  cascades  that  flash  and  sparkle  adown  the 
mountain-sides.      We  skirt  the  shore  of    Douglas 

171 


172  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

Island,  as  we  steam  slowly  and  cautiously  along 
Stephen's  Passage,  thus  having  a  fine  view  of  the 
largest  quartz  mill  in  the  world. 

It  is  not  long  before  the  gangplank  is  lowered 
from  our  ship's  side  to  the  wharf  at  Juneau,  and  a 
notice  put  up  warning  us  not  to  delay  our  return  to 
the  vessel  later  than  twelve  o'clock,  which  allows 
us  several  hours  in  this  largest  of  Alaskan  towns. 
The  Camera  Brigade,  with  the  rest  of  the  passen- 
gers, lose  no  time  in  alighting,  and  soon  we  are 
all  scattered  in  different  directions,  each  wandering 
whither  his  impulse  leads  him.  This  city  is  named 
in  honor  of  Joseph  Juneau,  a  French  Canadian,  who 
discovered  gold  on  the  island  in  1880.  It  is  well 
known  that  Juneau  is  the  headquarters  and  centre 
of  the  mining  district  in  this  region,  as  numerous 
rich  quartz  and  placer  mines  are  located  in  its 
vicinity. 

The  population  varies  with  the  seasons,  being 
much  larger  in  winter,  when  the  miners  resort 
hither,  as  they  are  then  unable  to  work  on  account 
of  the  ice  and  snow.  It  averages  about  two  thou- 
sand five  hundred,  has  newspapers,  churches, 
schools,  hotels,  breweries,  a  hospital,  and  last  but 
not  least,  an  opera  house. 

We  soon  find  our  way  to  some  of  the  curio 


Juneau,  and  the  Famous  Treadwell  Mine   1 73 

shops,  in  which  are  displayed  photographs,  beads, 
totem  poles,  wooden  dolls,  and  attractive  little  gold 
nuggets  for  rings,  chain  mountings,  etc. ;  also  skins 
of  the  otter,  seal,  beaver,  squirrel  and  other  animals, 
most  of  them  old  and  dingy  with  use.  Here  too, 
are  fish  or  salmon  plates,  which  are  purchased  by 
the  visitors,  simply  as  mementos  of  the  place,  I 
hope.  These  dishes  are  of  different  lengths,  vary- 
ing from  eighteen  to  forty-eight  inches,  shaped  like 
a  flat  canoe,  and  highly  ornamented  with  carving. 
When  we  stray  into  Seward  Street,  we  begin  to 
feel  quite  at  home,  for  here  are  many  good  stores, 
selling  every  variety  of  goods,  as  in  other  cities. 
The  newspapers  are  a  credit  to  the  town.  Of 
course  there  is  much  gossip,  and  news  of  a  local 
character,  all  of  which  may  be  truthfully  said  of  our 
own  leading  journals. 

Handbills   are    scattered    about    the    town,   an- 
nouncing: 


Grand  Concert  at  the  Opera  House, 

Monday  Eve,  July  2,  1900. 

At  8:30  p.  M. 

Prof.  F.  Clyde  Leathers,  Musical  Director 

Vashon  Conservatory  of  Music, 

Assisted  by  the  leading  and  best  talent  in  Juneau. 


174  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

Every  ticket  for  this  concert  will  be  numbered  to 
a  certain  limit,  and  the  holders  of  the  lucky  numbers 
will  be  entitled  to  one  year's  free  tuition  in  the 
Vashon  Conservatory. 

,  The  tickets  have  been  placed  at  the  extremely 
low  price  of  25  cents,  in  order  that  all  may  be 
reached. 

Tickets  for  boxes,  50  cents:  each  ticket  entitled 
to  two  numbers. 

Secure  a  Seat  early. 


Thus  business  and  pleasure  go  hand  in  hand, 
even  among  the  gold  mines  of  this  Arctic  region. 

We  climb  a  steep  slope  to  an  eminence  called 
Juneau  Hill,  from  which  we  have  a  fine  view  of  the 
town,  the  harbor,  and  Douglas  Island.  While 
admiring  this  beautiful  prospect,  we  are  accosted 
by  a  pleasant  looking  stranger,  who  greets  us  cour- 
teously, and  after  welcoming  us  to  the  town,  in- 
quires from  what  part  of  the  country  we  have 
come,  and  when  we  reply  "From  Philadelphia," 
his  interest  increases,  for  that  is  also  his  native  city. 
With  much  hospitality,  he  wishes  to  entertain  us  at 
his  home  in  Juneau,  but  we  are  compelled  to  de- 
cline his  cordial  invitation,  as  we  have  but  a  short 
time  to  remain  in  the  city. 


Juneau,  and  the  Famous  Treadwell  Mine   175 

The  views  from  this  point  are  remarkably  beauti- 
ful— the  shining  waters  lapping  the  shores  of  Doug- 
las Island,  with  its  snow-covered  peaks  and  rich 
verdant  slopes,  with  the  picturesque  town  of  Juneau 
in  the  foreground,  form  a  combination  of  such 
lofty  grandeur  and  charming  repose,  that  one  longs 
to  store  it  away  among  the  choice  bits  in  his  port- 
folio. Looking  across  a  deep  ravine,  I  observe  a 
little  gold  mine  at  the  base  of  Mount  Juneau.  Our 
new  acquaintance  tells  us  that  he  is  the  owner  of  it, 
and  speaks  hopefully  of  his  venture,  adding  how- 
ever, that  one  must  prepare  himself  for  deprivation 
and  hardship  if  he  would  engage  in  such  an  under- 
taking. A  man  must  separate  himself  not  only 
from  friends  and  relatives,  but  from  the  congenial 
atmosphere  of  life  among  familiar  surroundings,  in 
order  to  seek  this  golden  treasure  ;  and  then  he  is 
not  certain  of  success,  for  Dame  Fortune  is  a  fickle 
goddess,  leaving  many  a  noble  heart  in  dismal, 
gloomy  depths,  because  she  does  not  choose  to 
smile,  her  all  transforming  smile,  upon  his  efforts. 

In  our  wanderings  we  come  upon  the  Methodist 
Church  of  this  town — a  simple,  but  attractive,  and 
well  cared  for  building — quite  encouraging  to  the 
Christian  visitor  ;  and  we  learn  that  it  is  doing  its 
share  of  hard,  honest  work  among  the  people. 


176  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

I  do  not  wish  to  give  the  impression  that  Juneau 
is  a  place  devoid  of  social  atmosphere.  This  is  by  no 
means  the  case.  Many  families  of  culture  and 
considerable  means  reside  here,  and  numberless  are 
the  entertainments,  theatre  parties,  and  other  social 
functions  of  this  class.  The  majority  of  those  whom 
I  have  met  have  attracted  me  by  their  pleasant 
manners,  and  generally  prepossessing  appearance. 

The  streets  here  seem  very  much  alike,  and  the 
dwellings,  which  are  mostly  built  of  wood,  are 
similar  in  structure.  The  town  is  built  on  the 
sloping  side  of  a  hill,  and,  like  all  other  settlements 
in  this  region  of  rich,  fresh  and  abundant  water 
courses,  and  extensive  forests,  carries  on  large 
fisheries  and  sawmills.  The  natives  are  about  as 
uninviting  as  those  we  have  seen  elsewhere  upon 
our  journey,  although  it  is  said  that  the  women  of 
this  district  are  expert  and  industrious,  being  noted 
for  their  skill  in  weaving,  and  their  artistic  designs 
in  coloring  and  combining  figures  in  their  baskets  ; 
while  the  men  display  curious  and  original  carvings 
on  silver  bracelets,  horn  and  wooden  souvenirs,  and 
little  totem  poles.  In  the  heart  of  the  town,  the 
natives  may  be  seen  daily,  sitting  upon  the  ground, 
along  the  sidewalks  of  the  principal  streets,  offering 
for  sale,   fish,  berries,   vegetables,   and  their  little 


Ascending  Summit  White  Pass  Sec  page  213 


Juneau,  and  the  Famous  Treadwell  Mine   179 

stock  of  curios.  These  women,  for  the  market  is 
carried  on  chiefly  by  women,  sit  huddled  up  be- 
hind their  wares,  wearing  great,  heavy  woolen 
blankets  over  their  shoulders,  with  a  similar,  but 
smaller  covering  for  their  heads.  They  are  evidently 
much  distressed  by  my  attempts  to  photograph  them, 
and  shrink  together  if  a  camera  is  but  pointed  at 
them.  They  have  a  peculiar  fashion  of  drawing 
their  shawls  over  their  heads  whenever  this  is  done. 
Unless  they  are  taken  unawares,  the  snap  shot  proves 
an  utter  failure.  The  only  way  is  to  stand  in  the 
neighborhood,  apparently  unconcerned,  or  interested 
only  in  what  they  have  for  sale  and  snap  the  camera 
without  their  knowledge. 

Throughout  the  American  settlements,  the  greatest 
enthusiasm  is  manifested  over  the  holidays,  such  as 
Christmas,  Washington's  Birthday  and  the  Fourth 
of  July.  1  have  a  gorgeous  placard  in  flaming  red 
and  blue  letters  ;  a  sample  of  hundreds  scattered 
over  the  town,  reading  as  follows  : 

1776  GRAND  1900 

FOURTH  OF  JULY 

CELEBRATION 

JUNEAU, 


l8o  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

National  Salute  at  Sunrise 


STREET  PARADE ;    SPORTS  ;  ORATIONS. 


MAGNIFICENT  DISPLAY  OP  FIREWORKS. 


GRAND  BALL,  JULY  3,  9  P.M.  FIREMAN'S  HALL. 


Thus  it  is  that  we  find  the  spirit  of  the  "  Father 
of  his  Country "  and  his  little  band  of  patriots 
existing  in  the  remotest  corner  of  the  earth,  wher- 
ever there  is  a  man  who  is  proud  to  call  himself  a 
citizen  of  the  United  States. 

As  Juneau  has  no  paid  fne  department,  each 
citizen  feels  it  incumbent  upon  him  to  volunteer  his 
services  in  case  of  fire.  It  is  therefore  well  under- 
stood that  when  the  fire-bell  rings  in  the  belfry  of 
the  old  church,  those  hearing  it  must  run  v/ith  all 
speed  to  the  hose  house,  drag  the  hose-carriage  to 
the  nearest  available  water  plug,  and  attach  the  hose. 
The  natural  force  of  the  water  flowing  down  the 
mountain-side,  is  sufficient  to  reach  the  spot  attacked 
by  fire  and  subdue  the  flames.  A  number  of  stories 
in  this  connection  have  been  related  to  us.  The 
following  is  one  of  them  : 

A  fire  suddenly  breaking  out  in  the  house  of  one 


Juneau,  and  the  Famous  Treadwell  Mine   18 1 

of  the  citizens,  the  church  bell  as  usual,  summoned 
the  volunteers  to  the  spot.  The  day  happened  to  be 
the  Sabbath,  and  the  minister  was  in  the  midst  of 
his  sermon;  but  he  immediately  dismissed  his  con- 
gregation, with  the  words  :  "The  meeting  will 
adjourn  until  the  fire  is  extinguished,  when  the 
congregation  will  return  and  resume  the  service." 

Another  anecdote  is  told  of  a  funeral  procession, 
which  was  suddenly  arrested  on  its  way  to  the 
burial-ground  by  the  ringing  of  the  fire-bell.  The 
pall-bearers,  in  obedience  to  the  summons,  instantly 
deposited  the  coffm  by  the  roadside,  and  with  the 
rest  of  the  mourners,  hastened  to  draw  the  hose- 
carriage  to  the  scene  of  the  fire,  and  quickly  extin- 
guished it. 

In  Juneau  we  feel  that  we  have  once  more  entered 
a  region  of  civilization,  as  much  of  the  familiar  at- 
mosphere of  home  life  is  to  be  found  here.  But  all 
too  soon  the  deep  bass  notes  of  our  steamer's 
whistle  call  us  from  our  interesting  wanderings;  and 
now  the  passengers  may  be  seen,  coming  from 
every  corner  of  the  town,  all  hurrying  in  one  di- 
rection, till,  laughing  and  breathless,  we  find  our- 
selves assembled  once  more  on  board  our  floating 
palace. 

Our  destination  this  time  is  quickly  reached,  be- 


i82  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

ing  just  across  the  harbor  to  Douglas  Island,  to  view 
the  largest  quartz  mill  in  the  world.  As  we  ap- 
proach the  island,  a  continuous,  and  almost  deafen- 
ing sound  greets  our  ears,  varied  at  intervals  by  ex- 
plosions like  the  thunder  of  artillery.  This  excites 
L!S  so  that  we  impatiently  await  the  moment  of 
landing  upon  these  world  renowned  shores. 
About  half-way  across  the  channel,  I  succeed  in 
making  a  picture  of  the  mill,  wharf,  and  surround- 
ing mountains. 

One  naturally  pauses  in  the  presence  of  such  a 
scene,  to  reflect  upon  the  magnitude  of  the  enter- 
prise, and  the  wonderful  wealth  of  this  island, 
seamed  from  end  to  end  with  gold  bearing  quartz, 
which  is  practically  inexhaustible.  Upon  the  plat- 
form of  the  long  substantial  wharf  are  piled  bags  of 
the  precious  metal,  worth  thousands  of  dollars, 
waiting  to  be  sent  to  the  smelting  mills.  The  enor- 
mous structures  of  the  company  occupy  many 
acres  of  ground.  The  village,  but  a  short  distance 
from  the  mines,  where  the  homes  of  the  miners  are 
built,  the  high  hills  and  mountains  with  their  mar- 
vellous stores  of  treasure,  may  be  seen  at  a  glance. 
We  anchor  here  to  receive  and  deposit  freight,  as 
well  as  to  give  the  passengers  an  opportunity  of 
visiting  the  mines. 


Juneau,  and  the  Famous  Treadwell  Mine   183 

There  is  but  one  landing-place,  and  thence  we 
follow  the  pathway  to  the  mills.  The  noise  in- 
creases as  we  approach  the  scene  of  action,  and 
when  we  enter  the  vast  building,  it  is  so  incessant 
and  tremendous  that  we  cannot  hear  each  other's 
voices.  Many  of  our  company  hold  their  hands 
over  their  ears,  and  begin  to  retreat,  fearing  they 
have  come  to  the  wrong  entrance.  But  we  are  soon 
assured  that  all  is  right,  and  the  foreman  begins,  in 
pantomime,  to  explain  the  various  operations 
around  us:  all  information  is  obtained  through  our 
eyes.  As  he  points  hither  and  thither,  shakes  his 
head  and  moves  his  lips,  we  all  involuntarily  do 
likewise,  and  like  a  group  of  marionettes,  follow  in 
his  footsteps,  nodding,  laughing,  gesticulating,  as 
he  sets  the  example:  but  his  language  is  very  clear 
to  us,  and  we  have  no  difficulty  in  understanding 
his  ideas  and  explanations.  He  leads  us  to  the 
crushing  department,  where  the  mighty  cannon- 
ading is  going  on.  The  mill  runs  eight  hundred 
and  eighty  .stamps,  and  with  its  machinery,  has  cost 
more  than  half  a  million  dollars.  In  this  depart- 
ment the  quartz  is  hammered  to  powder  and 
cleansed  of  all  superfluous  matter.  The  valuable 
residue  is  then  gathered  up,  dried  and  put  into  bags, 
containing  about  a  hundred  pounds  each.     These 


184  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

are  stored  on  the  wharf  in  large  quantities,  to  await 
shipment  to  Tacoma,  where  the  gold  is  extracted. 
The  quartz  obtained  here  is  not  so  rich  as  that  of 
many  other  mines,  but  the  working  process  is  so 
much  easier,  and  the  quantity  so  enormous,  that  the 
aggregate  results  are  unparalleled.  The  yield  ave- 
rages from  three  to  seven  dollars  to  the  ton.  The 
dust,  after  washing,  is  valued  at  the  rate  of  a  dollar 
and  a  half  per  bag  of  a  hundred  pounds.  The 
whole  wharf  is  covered  with  this  dust,  and  one  has 
the  feeling  of  treading  on  a  roadway  of  gold.  The 
manager  does  not  object  to  our  filling  our  pockets 
with  the  dust,  remarking  indifferently:  "The  com- 
pany can  well  afford  these  small  robberies  by  the 
tourists." 

The  thunders  of  the  dynamite  blastings  are  re- 
peated at  intervals  of  a  half  hour,  and  resound  about 
forty  times  in  rapid  succession.  They  may  be 
heard  miles  away.  Each  discharge  is  followed  by 
great  clouds  of  smoke  from  the  blasting  pit.  The 
quartz  thus  obtained  is  carried  in  small  cars  directly 
to  the  crushing  mill.  The  wet  weather  which 
prevails  here  is  extremely  favorable  for  the  oper- 
ations of  the  company,  as  an  abundant  supply  of 
water  is  required  to  treat  the  gold  bearing  quartz 
properly. 


Juneau,  and  the  Famous  Treadwell  Mine   187 

So  energetic  are  the  managers  of  this  opulent 
syndicate,  that  the  entire  mountain-side  has  been 
quarried  and  it  will  not  be  long  before  the  remain- 
ing portion  must  succumb  to  man's  insatiable  desire 
for  gold.  We  are  informed  that  these  mills  are  oper- 
ated, with  but  two  exceptions,  during  the  whole  year. 
The  only  days  and  nights  of  rest  for  men  and  ma- 
chinery are  Christmas  and  the  fourth  of  July. 
Twenty-eight  hundred  tons  of  quartz  are  mined  each 
day,  the  work  being  all  above  ground.  At  night 
the  scene  is  brilliantly  illuminated  by  electric 
lights.  Hundreds  of  men  are  employed  here,  the 
majority  of  them  receiving  two  dollars  a  day  and 
their  board.  The  single  men  live  at  the  company's 
general  boarding-house,  while  those  who  are 
married  have  the  advantages  and  comforts  of  their 
own  homes. 

Provisions  and  clothing  are  rather  higher  here 
than  at  Seattle  and  the  laboring  element  seems  to  be 
in  a  very  unsettled  state.  This  class  is  formed 
chiefly  from  the  ranks  of  men  returning  from  the 
Klondike,  who  have  been  stranded,  and  are  working 
their  way  back  to  the  States.  The  usual  limit  of 
the  working  day  is  ten  hours;  those  who  labor 
during  the  night,  one  week,  are  placed  upon  the 
day  force  of  the  following  week — and  vice  versa. 


i88  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

The  work  is  indeed  very  hard,  and  I  would  say  that 
the  miner  more  than  earns  his  two  dollars  a  day. 

The  second  class  fare  from  Douglas  to  Seattle  is 
fifteen  dollars  a  head.  I  observed  a  group  of  ten 
or  twelve  dissatisfied  miners  congregated  upon  the 
wharf,  all  loud  in  their  complaints  against  the 
company.  They  were  awaiting  a  returning  steamer 
to  carry  them  to  Seattle.  Of  course  every  one  knows 
that  in  such  cases  there  is  something  to  be  said  on 
both  sides  :  yet  judging  by  the  scanty  stores  of 
baggage  the  men  were  bearing  away,  I  could  not 
feel  that  they  had  had  the  best  of  their  bargain. 

The  village  of  Douglas  consists  of  the  little  homes 
of  the  miners,  and  the  boarding-houses  and  stores 
of  the  company.  These  buildings  are  of  wood, 
rough,  plain  and  very  unattractive.  Along  the 
wharf  sat  a  number  of  Indian  women,  wrapped  in 
their  blankets,  who,  with  pleading  looks,  offered 
their  wares  in  exchange  for  the  cash  of  the  visitors. 
Greasy,  dirty  and  uncouth  looking,  it  is  hard  to  be- 
lieve that  a  ray  of  happiness  brightens  the  forlorn 
existence  of  these  women. 

Such  sights  are  not  encouraging  to  the  newcomer, 
who  has  staked  his  fortune,  and  left  the  atmosphere 
of  a  prosperous  city  to  seek  wealth  in  this  not  al- 
ways friendly  territory.     It  is  true  that  we  meet 


Juneau,  and  the  Famous  Treadwell  Mine   189 

some  miners  who  have  had  "  luck,"  as  they  call  it, 
but  where  one  has  made  a  fortunate  venture,  dozens 
appear  with  disappointment  and  misery  written  on 
their  countenances.  Only  too  well  have  they  real- 
ized the  old  maxim :  "All  that  glitters  is  not  gold." 
The  brilliant  prospects  which  have  lured  them 
hither  have  resulted  principally  in  benefit  to  the 
capitalist  and  the  transportation  companies. 

Douglas  Island  was  named  by  Vancouver  for  his 
friend,  the  Bishop  of  Salisbury.  It  is  twenty-five 
miles  long,  and  about  ten  in  width:  until  1881 
it  was  an  untrodden  wilderness.  Then  some  miners, 
too  late  to  establish  their  claims  on  Juneau,  made  a 
camp  here.  John  Treadwell,  a  San  Francisco  builder, 
reluctantly,  it  is  said,  took  the  claim  on  Paris  Creek 
as  security  for  a  loan  of  one  hundred  and  fifty 
dollars,  and  afterwards  bought  the  adjoining  claim 
for  three  hundred  dollars.  With  San  Francisco 
partners  to  back  him,  he  remained  on  the  ground 
and  protected  his  property,  until  his  title  was  se- 
cured. It  had  been  stated  that  $16,000,000  have 
been  refused  for  this  property. 

It  is  late  in  the  afternoon  when  we  turn  our  backs 
on  these  picturesque  shores,  and  steam  along  the 
Lynn  Canal  towards  Skagway.  The  canal,  one  of 
the  finest  fiords  on  the  coast,  was  named  for  Van- 


190  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

couver's  native  town  in  Norfolk,  England.  It  is 
fifty-five  miles  in  length,  and  finally  divides  into  the 
Chilkat  and  Chilkoot  inlets.  It  has  a  depth  of  four 
hundred  and  thirty  fathoms,  and  its  banks  present 
a  magnificent  panorama  of  mountains,  forests  and 
glaciers,  with  sometimes  precipitous  walls  rising  to 
a  great  height  on  either  side.  The  temperature  at 
this  time  is  about  sixty  degrees.  Here  is  an  icy 
mountain,  gleaming  between  tall  peaks,  and  sur- 
mounted by  a  curious  rock,  "which  resembles  our 
national  bird  so  much  more  than  does  the  figure 
on  the  new  dollar,  that  we  christened  it  the  Eagle 
Glacier, "  wrote  Captain  Beardslee  in  August, 
1879. 

But  this  is  a  stretch  of  imagination,  and  does  not 
truly  describe  the  picture  before  us.  The  glacier  pre- 
sents a  surface  about  a  mile  in  width,  and  extends 
far  back  into  the  valley.  It  is  probably  a  thousand 
feet  in  depth,  and  affects  the  atmosphere  perceptibly 
as  we  approach  it.  The  thermometer  registers  a 
fall  of  four  degrees  within  the  last  few  minutes. 
This  great  mass  is  like  an  ice  floe,  exhibiting  no  peaky 
formations.  The  mountains  slope  beautifully  to 
the  water's  edge,  and  here  and  there  wooded 
islands  form  charming  contrasts  in  life  and  color 
to  the  glistening,  steely  blue  surface  of  the  glacier. 


Juneau,  and  the  Famous  Treadwell  Mine   191 

Scarcely  has  the  Eagle  disappeared  from  view, 
when  the  great  Auk  Glacier  demands  its  share  of 
our  admiration.  It  is  similar  in  appearance  to  the 
other  bird,  and  is  perhaps  as  worthy  a  representa- 
tion of  its  namesake.  It  gleams  forth  imposingly 
from  the  mainland  shore,  and  affiliates  with  the 
icy  summits  in  the  background,  and  the  snows, 
quite  pure  in  color,  which  creep  down  the  moun- 
tain-sides. How  repelling  are  those  distant  peaks, 
in  their  unchanging  draperies  of  ice  and  snow  ! 
Their  children,  the  glaciers,  cling  to  their  slopes, 
and  though  mist  and  fog  ofttimes  surround  them, 
they  are  ever  the  same, — bleak,  barren  inaccessible. 

Suddenly  we  are  called  to  the  other  side  of  the 
steamer,  by  some  friends  to  witness  a  "Performing 
Whale,'". as  I  dub  him.  He  is  quite  close  to  the  ship, 
and  seems  to  delight  in  his  playful  antics,  rising, 
falling,  and  cplashing  the  water  high  in  the  air; 
then  spouting  forth  great  streams  like  fountains. 
With  spread  tail  and  proud  as  a  peacock,  he  flaunts 
himself  about  his  watery  domain,  posing  really  ar- 
tistically, much  to  his  own  delight,  and  that  of  the 
observers.  It  is  said  that  the  natives  formerly  be- 
lieved these  great  creatures  of  the  sea  were  once 
bears,  but,  going  to  sea,  wore  off  their  fur  on  the 
rocks,  and  had  their  feet  nibbled  away  by  the  fishes. 


192  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

It  is  now  eight  o'clock  in  the  evening,  and  al- 
though many  clouds  hover  over  our  heads,  they 
are  brilliantly  illuminated  by  the  sunbeams,  so  that 
one  could  easily  imagine  it  to  be  the  middle  of  the 
afternoon.  Near  us  are  two  picturesque  mountain 
ranges;  the  Three  Sisters  and  the  Three  Brothers. 
How  can  I  describe  their  beauty?  Imagine  peak 
after  peak  glowing  in  rainbow  hues  beneath  the  daz- 
zling sunlight,  their  ermine  robes  gleaming  in  royal 
magnificence!  Their  majesty,  their  forms,  their 
tones  are  wondrous  and  sublime!  The  waters  of 
the  canal  repeat  the  bewildering  effect,  and  the 
whole  forms  a  glorious  picture,  of  which  you  can 
have  but  a  faint  idea  from  these  brief  and  inadequate 
expressions.  Truly  a  noble  group  of  kings  and 
queens!  It  is  a  supreme  moment.  The  soul  has 
entered  the  portals  of  an  enchanted  realm;  and  who 
knows  what  message  comes  to  each  one  of  us  in 
these  unspeakable  experiences  ? 

"  Admire — exult — laugh — weep — for  here 
There  is  much  matter  for  all  feeling." 

Prominent  upon  our  right  are  the  Chilkoot  Moun- 
tains, towering  high  above  us,  and  casting  deep 
shadows  where  the  cliffs  jut  out  over  the  water. 
We  are  now  so  far  north  that  the  night  seems  but  a 


Juneau,  and  the  Famous  Treadwell  Mine   193 

pretense,  a  brief  shadow,  across  which  one  day 
may  greet  another; — for  light  is  always  visible.  The 
sun  is  shining  brightly  now  at  ten  minutes  past  nine 
in  the  evening,  and  will  not  sink  below  the  horizon 
for  nearly  a  half  hour;  then  we  will  have  light  from 
the  heavens  until  midnight,  and  the  day  breaks  at 
one  o'clock,  so  if  one  wishes  to  retire,  he  must  make 
a  semblance  of  night  by  artificial  means.  It  cer- 
tainly is  a  novel  experience  to  shut  one's  self  up  and 
sleep  when  the  sun  is  shining.  However,  the  time 
comes  when  I  must  say  to  my  friends:  "  I  retire  to 
sleep  now.     Good-day." 

But  quickly,  as  usual,  the  sky  is  overcast,  and  a 
shower  is  upon  us,  while  still  smiling,  the  sun  peeps 
through ;  and  as  I  take  a  last  glance  at  the  beautiful 
scenes,  I  behold  a  charming  addition  to  their  beauty. 
It  is  a  rainbow,  which  the  sun  has  gotten  up 
for  a  parting  gift  to  the  day,  "Robed  in  heavenly 
dyes,"  and  poised  between  the  earth  and  sky,  a 
faithful  reminder  that  the  Great  Spirit  above  will 
never  fail  the  mortal  who  trusts  in  His  promises. 

It  is  now  midnight,  and  I  rise  from  my  berth, 
dress,  and  slip  out  on  deck,  wondering  that  the 
steamer  is  at  a  standstill.  We  have  reached  Chil- 
koot  Inlet,  and  are  discharging  freight.  I  linger,  ad- 
miring the  brightness  of  the  night.     It  is  so  lumi- 


194  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

nous  that  one  can  read  or  write  with  ease.  Taking 
a  pencil,  I  make  a  note  in  my  diary,  as  an  evidence 
of  this  fact,  to  convince  my  mind  on  the  morrow, 
when  things  nightly  may  seem  but  as  a  dream. 
The  test  is  satisfactory:  this  is  no  dream  on  my 
part. 

At  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we  are  within 
sight  of  Skagway,  a  city  of  wondrous  and  rapid 
growth.  Its  appearance  is  very  attractive,  as  it  lies 
at  the  foot  of  a  lofty  mountain,  and  is  evidently  a 
wide-awake  place,  with  much  "Go"  in  it.  The 
town  began  with  a  few  cabins  in  1897,  when  the 
Klondike  excitement  had  just  started,  and  suddenly 
sprang  into  a  city,  with  a  population  of  from  5,000 
to  8,000.  It  has  good  wharves  and  landing  facili- 
ties, and  contains  churches,  schools  and  good  pub- 
lic buildings,  as  well  as  hotels  and  saloons.  It  is 
illuminated  by  electric  lights,  and  has  an  abundant 
supply  of  pure  water  from  a  great  lake  above  the 
town,  which  is  fed  by  an  enormous  glacier.  Sev- 
eral spicy  newspapers,  both  daily  and  weekly,  are 
supported  by  this  town.  I  have  just  purchased  one 
of  them.  It  is  The  Daily  Morning  Alaskan,  dated 
June  29,  1900,  and  is  evidently  filled  with  local  pride, 
which  finds  vent  in  bold  head-lines,  such  as: 
"Skagway  is  the  Only  Real  City  in  Alaska." — 


Juneau,  and  the  Famous  Treadwell  Mine   197 

"  Half  a  Million  in  One  Shipment."  This  last  is  an 
allusion  to  gold  dust  brought  in  by  miners  from  the 
Klondike,  and  shipped  from  Skagway. — "Social 
Dance.  There  will  be  a  social  dance  at  Armory 
Hall  on  Saturday  evening,  June  30.  All  are  cordially 
invited.  Be  assured  of  a  good  time.  Messrs.  Met- 
calf  &  Hooker,  of  the  committee  on  Fourth  of  July 
subscriptions,  v^^ere  closing  up  their  canvas  last 
night,  and  were  confident  that  the  total  amount 
would  not  be  under  $450,  which  will  be  sufficient  to 
cover  the  expenses  of  a  big  celebration."  The  other 
columns  are  filled  with  the  usual  order  of  odds  and 
ends,  gossip,  business  and  social  news,  and  adver- 
tisements. 

The  town  manifests  the  inevitable  crudeness  of 
its  mushroom  growth.  There  are  many  frame 
houses,  although  it  is  evident  that  the  progres- 
sive spirit  of  the  place  is  demanding  more  sub- 
stantial buildings.  The  modern  models  are  stone 
structures,  with  strong  foundations,  which  predict 
a  prosperous  career  for  the  city.  With  such  enter- 
prises as  the  White  Pass  and  Yukon  Railroad,  and 
its  syndicate  owning  millions  of  dollars,  Skagway 
has  a  great  future  before  it  in  a  legitimate  line  of 
business. 


Over  the  White  Pass 

to  Lake  Bennett 


CHAPTER  VII 
Over  the  White  Pass  to  Lake  Bennett 

A  Great  Undertaking — Opening  of  the  Road — Our  Train — Clear- 
ings— An  Interruption — Pinnacle  Mountain — Rocky  Point — 
The  Trestle  —  White  Pass  Canon  —  Forest  Fires — Distant 
Views — Unrivalled  Scenery — Blue  Granite — Hanging  Rocks 
— Blasting — Huge  Boulders — Monarchs  Dethroned — Tin  Cans 
— Packhorses — Suicide  Rock — White  Pass  City — North  Fork 
Falls — Among  the  Clouds — Pioneer  Days — A  Series  of  Water- 
falls— Whirling  Round  the  Mountain-Sides — Summit  Gorge — 
The  Tunnel — Glacier  Gorge — A  Stupendous  Feat — Nature's 
Road-bed — Above  the  Snov/  Line — Snowballs — Winter  Gales 
— Old  Pack  Trail — On  the  Summit — A  Lovely  Lake — Mosqui- 
toes— Under  Two  Flags — Bennett  City — Extending  the  Route 
Tents  and  Cottages — A  Christian  Settlement — Railroad  and 
Church — Lake  Bennett — Barge  Builders  —  En  route  for  the 
Klondike — A  Fairy  Scene — The  Old  Town — Signs — Dinner 
— On  British  Territory — A  Lone  Prospector. 


HE  resources  of  the  town  are  quickly  ex- 
hausted, and  ambitious  to  behold  the 
grander  scenes  of  this  neighborhood,  we 
turn  our  attention  to  the  trip  over  the 
White  Pass  to  Lake  Bennett  and  Bennett  City. 
With  little  difficulty  we  persuade  our  accommo- 
dating captain  to  hold  his  steamer  in  port  until  we 

201 


202  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

have  made  this  expedition;  and  then  proceed  to 
make  arrangements  with  the  railroad  officials  for 
the  round  trip.  The  distance  is  eighty-two  miles, 
and  a  special  rate  of  ten  dollars  each,  is  made  for 
our  passengers.  Freight  costs  sixty  dollars  a  ton, 
from  Skagway  to  Lake  Bennett.  A  word  or  two  in 
regard  to  this  great  undertaking  may  not  be  amiss 
here.  Three  men  were  foremost  in  the  daring 
venture  of  building  a  railroad  in  the  clouds,  as  it 
were,  taking  foothold  on  the  precipitous  side  of  the 
mountain,  three  thousand  feet  above  the  valley. 
These  men  w-ere  M.  J.  Heney,  contractor,  E.  C. 
Hawkins,  chief  engineer,  and  John  Hislop,  assistant 
engineer.  The  road  was  opened  July  ist,  1899, 
although  the  first  train  did  not  run  over  its  perilous 
route  until  July  6th.  The  following  extract  from 
the  company's  circular  may  give  some  idea  of  the 
difficulties  attending  this  undertaking. 

"The  most  important  incident  of  the  season  of 
1899,  relative  to  the  development  of  the  far  north- 
ern gold  fields,  was  the  completion  of  the  railway 
tracks,  and  the  transportation  of  freight  and  pas- 
sengers from  Skagway,  Alaska,  to  Lake  Bennett,  B. 
C,  a  distance  of  forty-one  miles,  on  July  6th.  The 
first  train  from  Skagway  to  Lake  Bennett  was  an 
affair  of  international  interest.     The  building  of  the 


Over  White  Pass  to  Lake  Bennett     203 

White  Pass  and  Yukon  Route  through  Alaska  into 
British  Columbia  and  Lake  Bennett,  now  that  first- 
class  connection  by  lake  and  river  steamers  for 
Atlin,  Dawson  City,  Yukon  and  Cape  Nome  gold 
fields  is  secured,  is  certainly  the  most  important  de- 
velopment that  has  yet  transpired  in  the  gold  re- 
gions of  the  North.  From  a  scenic  standpoint,  a 
trip  over  the  White  Pass  and  Yukon  Route,  Skag- 
way  to  Bennett,  in  a  modern,  upholstered  railway 
coach,  has  no  parallel.  The  rugged  grandeur  of  the 
rocky  defiles,  the  jutting  crags,  around  and  over 
which  the  railroad  winds,  the  tunnels  through 
which  it  cuts,  the  hundreds  of  waterfalls,  thousands 
of  feet  below  and  above,  the  snow-topped  sum- 
mits, striving  to  penetrate  the  sky,  present  scenes 
that  thrill  the  senses." 

The  construction  of  the  road  was  begun  Febru- 
ary, 1898,  and  finished,  February  22,  1899.  The 
cost  was  $1,000,000  to  the  White  Pass  sum- 
mit, and  another  million  thence  to  Lake  Ben- 
net.  This  is  a  glorious  day;  the  sun  shining  in  ail 
his  splendor,  and  the  sky  of  purest  blue  give  the 
key-note  to  the  grand  harmony  about  us.  With 
light  hearts  and  favorable  prospects,  we  leave  Skag- 
way  at  nine  o'clock  in  the  morning.  This  is  a 
narrow-gauge  road,   and  the  coaches  are  spacious. 


204  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

and  comfortable.  Most  of  the  passengers  crowd 
into  an  observation  car,  which  offers  an  unob- 
structed view  of  the  scenery  around  us.  The  pow- 
erful locomotive  is  one  of  Baldwin's.  Some  idea  of 
the  construction  of  this  road-bed  may  be  gleaned 
from  the  statement  that  the  freight  cars  here  have  a 
capacity  of  40,000  pounds,  while  their  weight  is 
17,000  pounds. 

Our  train  consists  of  three  observation  cars,  one 
drawing-room  coach,  and  two  freight  cars.  In 
our  party  are  Captain  Wallace,  of  the  Steamship 
"Queen,"  Mr.  John  Hislop,  constructing  engineer, 
and  Mr.  M.  J.  Heney,  contractor.  We  are  running 
through  acres  of  burnt  forests,  and  clearings,  in 
which  scores  of  small  frame  houses  have  been 
erected.  On  many  of  these  are  visible  the  signs: 
"For  sale,"  or  "For  Rent." 

After  passing  the  second  station,  we  begin  the 
ascent  to  the  White  Pass  Summit,  an  altitude  of 
2,806  feet.  The  average  grade  is  three  and  ninety 
one  hundredths.  At  Skagway  River  we  are 
stopped  by  the  information  that  the  trestle  bridge 
over  which  we  are  about  to  pass,  has  been  reported 
as  unsafe,  in  consequence  of  high  waters;  and  that 
passengers  and  baggage  must  be  transferred  to  the 
inferior  cars  awaiting  us  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 


Over  White  Pass  to  Lake  Bennett     207 

river.  The  delay  and  the  prospect  of  the  second- 
class  coaches  rather  dampen  our  ardor;  but  we  ac- 
cept the  inevitable  as  gracefully  as  possible.  As  we 
mount  higher  and  higher,  our  enthusiasm  returns, 
and  we  enjoy  the  magnificent  panorama  before  us 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  East  Skagway  and  Skagway 
River  Division.  Lofty  mountains  tower  above  us, 
giving  the  impression  of  massive  strength  and 
eternal  endurance.  In  the  distance  the  tall  peaks  of 
the  Pinnacle  Mountain  rise  7,800  feet  above  the  val- 
ley. The  ascent  is  continuous  to  Rocky  Point,  500 
feet  above  the  plain;  thence  the  road  turns  and  we 
are  carried  over  a  wooden  trestle,  whose  light  and 
airy  character  awakens  in  our  minds  grave  doubts 
as  to  its  strength,  and  we  contemplate  gravely  the 
fearful  possibility  of  being  suddenly  precipitated 
from  its  height  into  the  wild  cafion  beneath.  As  I 
gaze  down  into  the  dreadful  abyss,  and  realize  that 
an  accident  would  mean  a  clear  drop  of  six  or  seven 
hundred  feet,  I  wonder  still  more  at  the  genius  and 
daring  of  the  projectors  of  this  railroad.  This  is  the 
famous  White  Pass  Canon,  once  dreaded  by  all 
travellers  in  this  region.  A  great  forest  fire  is  rag- 
ing on  the  opposite  mountain-side,  destroying  acres 
of  beautiful  woodland.  It  is  an  impressive  picture. 
The  flames  are  borne  to  a  great  height  by  the 


2o8  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

winds,  and  tossed  hither  and  thither,  as  though 
some  gigantic  demons  were  waving  their  crimson 
torches  in  every  direction.  The  centre  of  the  con- 
flagration appears  like  a  vast  cauldron,  red  and 
glowing  with  the  intensity  of  the  blaze.  These 
fires  are  of  frequent  occurrence  in  this  densely 
wooded  section,  originating,  most  probably,  in  the 
sparks  from  passing  locomotives.  They  rage  until 
they  have  completely  exhausted  their  fuel,  unless  a 
heavy  rain  intervenes. 

We  mount  higher  and  higher,  drawn  by  two 
powerful  engines,  whose  boilers  seem  ofttimes 
about  to  burst  with  their  strenuous  efforts.  In  the 
distance  the  charming  waters  of  Lynn  Canal  are 
visible,  and  the  town  of  Skagway  nestling  pictur- 
esquely at  the  foot  of  her  mountain.  It  is  im- 
possible to  give  an  idea  of  the  wild  grandeur  and 
beauty  of  the  views  above,  below  and  around  us. 
New  visions  of  harmony;  of  peaceful  loveliness,  of 
rugged  defiance,  of  sublime  majesty  constantly  pass 
before  our  wondering  eyes.  We  say  at  each  point: 
"  Surely  nothing  can  surpass  this! "  And  while  we 
are  yet  speaking,  a  glory  bursts  upon  us  that  tran- 
scends them  all.  It  is  utterly  vain  to  attempt  any 
description  of  these  scenes.  They  are  beyond  all 
feeble  efforts  of  tongue  or  pen. 


Over  White  Pass  to  Lake  Bennett     209 

An  immense  gateway,  through  which  we  pass, 
is  cut  in  the  solid  rock  called  blue  granite.  Swiftly 
we  whirl  under  the  canopy  of  the  Hanging  Rocks, 
whose  huge  boulders  project  ten  to  twelve  feet  over 
our  heads,  and  weigh  hundreds  of  tons.  We  are 
out  of  their  shadows  ere  we  have  time  for  a  passing 
thought  of  their  enormous  size  and  powers.  Mr. 
Heney  informs  me  that  some  of  the  cuttings 
through  these  granite  rocks  are  seventy  and  eighty 
feet  deep.  They  are  made  by  blasts  of  Black  Giant 
powder,  of  which  from  nine  to  ten  thousand 
pounds  are  used  for  one  explosion.  In  the  largest 
of  these,  twelve  thousand  pounds  of  powder  were 
used,  and  the  recoil  was  so  great  that  the  moun- 
tains seemed  to  tremble  at  the  concussion.  Boul- 
ders, weighing  thousands  of  tons,  are  scattered 
along  our  line  of  travel.  Great  is  the  devastation 
caused  by  the  hand  of  man.  Truly  it  appears  more 
like  the  work  of  demons.  The  great  granite  blocks 
are  split  and  jagged,  and  torn  into  every  conceiv- 
able shape.  The  echoes  of  the  blastings  roll  hither 
and  thither  among  the  mountain  peaks,  repeating 
to  them  ever  in  reverberating  tones  that  eternity  is 
no  longer  theirs.  The  solitude  of  nature  here  is 
forever  undone,  and  the  absolute  reign  of  the 
monarchs  is  over.     Alas  for  the  giants!    Are  they 


210  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

grieving  beneath  their  icy  crests  that  their  haughty 
heads  must  yield  to  the  demands  of  the  universe, 
or  have  they  too  hopes  of  a  hereafter  ? 

Still  ascending;  still  av^^estruck,  or  mute  with 
excess  of  delight!  No  point  is  without  its  majesty, 
no  depth  without  its  charm.  Dov/n  in  the  pictur- 
esque valley  is  the  gleam  of  half  a  score  of  tents, 
probably  a  little  colony  of  travellers  to  or  from  the 
gold  fields.  Traces  of  many  other  campers  are 
visible  as  we  steam  along.  Here  and  there  piles  of 
tin  cans  may  be  seen,  sometimes  assuming  the  pro- 
portions of  hills  from  fifty  to  sixty  feet  high,  with 
a  base  from  seventy  five  to  one  hundred  feet  in 
length.  These  must  be  the  accumulation  of  years. 
It  has  been  stated  that  previous  to  the  construction 
of  this  railroad,  from  twenty-five  hundred  to  three 
thousand  packhorses  were  killed  or  disabled  while 
making  the  journey  from  Skagway  to  Dawson 
City,  during  the  winter  and  spring  of  1898.  A 
speculator,  it  is  said,  as  an  experiment,  bought 
twenty  packhorses  to  hire  out  for  transporting 
merchandise  from  Skagv/ay  to  Dawson  City,  and 
charged  five  dollars  a  day  for  each  horse.  On  the 
first  trip,  but  two  horses  out  of  the  whole  number 
reached  Dawson  City.  The  others  perished  on  the 
way. 


Over  White  Pass  to  Lake  Bennett     211 

Here  is  the  continuation  of  the  old  Pack  road  over 
the  White  Pass,  and  I  listen  to  another  story  in  con- 
nection with  this  road.  I  will  leave  the  reader  to 
decide  for  himself  how  much  truth  there  is  in  it. 
A  miner  one  day  plodded  Vv^earily  over  the  trail, 
followed  closely  in  the  footsteps  of  his  horse,  until 
they  reached  a  pass  at  a  great  altitude,  when  sud- 
denly the  animal  made  a  determined  stand,  and  re- 
fused to  proceed.  His  master  urged  him  onward 
with  all  the  means,  both  gentle  and  violent,  at  his 
command,  but  the  beast  moved  neither  forward  nor 
backward — finally,  with  an  almost  human  expres- 
sion, he  looked  about  him,  shook  his  head,  and 
deliberately  jumped  over  the  side  of  the  precipice; 
choosing  death,  rather  than  the  prospect  before 
him.  This  incident  has  given  the  name.  Suicide 
Rock,  to  the  crag  which  stands  out  so  prominently 
at  this  point. 

In  the  valley,  a  thousand  or  more  feet  below, 
there  is  a  little  settlement,  called  White  Pass  City. 
It  is  of  sudden  growth,  and  consists  of  perhaps  a 
score  of  frame  houses,  presumably  the  homes  of 
foresters.  It  has  been  estimated  that  during  the 
seasons  of  1897  and  '98,  when  the  gold  fever  was 
at  its  height,  at  least  ten  thousand  emigrants  were 
encamped  on  this  spot,  on  their  way  to  the  Klondike. 


212  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

Many  beautiful  cascades  and  waterfalls  may  be 
seen,  sparkling  on  the  mountain-sides.  Sometimes 
we  pass  almost  through  their  silvery  spray.  One 
of  the  most  striking  of  these  makes  a  descent  of 
fifteen  hundred  feet,  but  half-way  down  the  moun- 
tain wall  it  breaks  into  three  lovely  graceful 
cascades,  from  which  it  has  received  the  name  of 
Pitchfork  Falls.  Another,  if  possible,  more  pic- 
turesque still,  is  the  North  Fork  Falls,  which  comes 
leaping  and  foaming  from  its  lofty  source,  glisten- 
ing in  the  sunlight,  and  singing  a  glad  song  as  it 
hastens  away  to  the  valley. 

We  are  at  an  elevation  of  fifteen  hundred  feet, 
and  seem  so  far  removed  from  ordinary  travel  that 
we  feel  as  though  we  are  wandering  among  the 
clouds.  A  fellow-traveller  entertains  me  with  in- 
teresting tales  of  adventures  experienced  during  the 
pioneer  days,  before  the  possibility  of  such  a  road 
as  this  was  dreamed  of.  In  those  days  he  travelled 
over  the  old  "Tote  Road,"  and  paid  as  much  as 
fifty  cents  a  pound  for  the  transportation  of  his 
goods  to  the  Klondike  or  Dawson  City. 

As  we  ascend,  more  waterfalls  appear,  and  near 
the  snow  line  the  temperature  is  cooler,  and  the  air 
fresher.  Here,  following  each  other  in  close  suc- 
cession, are  Wren  Falls,  Little  Mojave,  and  Pythea's 


Over  White  Pass  to  Lake  Bennett     213 

Falls;  each  have  a  charm  and  beauty  distinct  from 
the  others.  As  we  whirl  around  the  precipitous 
mountain-side,  at  an  altitude  of  2,000  feet,  one 
instinctively  holds  his  breath,  and  feels  his  hair 
rise  to  an  angle  of  forty-five  degrees,  especially  if 
he  is  standing  on  the  platform  of  the  car,  looking 
down  into  the  wild  canon  below.  1  certainly  feel 
chills  running  down  my  back,  and  wild  phantoms 
flit  across  my  brain. 

We  reach  the  Main  Gorge,  shoot  by  it,  and 
quickly  attain  the  Summit  Gorge.  Here  great  tor- 
rents make  a  mad  rush  over  the  rocks,  and  leap  into 
the  Skagway  River  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain. 
The  engine  sounds  its  sonorous  whistle,  and  I  look 
ahead.  Before  us  are  large  blasting  operations,  and 
rocks  of  every  size  and  shape  are  scattered  in  all 
directions.  In  the  distance,  at  the  very  edge  of  the 
precipice,  is  a  tunnel.  Before  we  enter  this,  we 
cross  a  rough  wooden  trestle,  spanning  a  wild 
cascade,  and  follow  the  Glacier  Gorge.  As  I  look 
upon  the  scene  before  me,  I  am  filled  Vv/ith  admira- 
tion for  the  brains  that  conceived,  the  brave  spirits 
that  executed  such  a  piece  of  engineering.  The 
tunnel  is  about  three  hundred  feet  long,  and  fully 
two  thousand  feet  from  the  surface  of  the  earth. 
During  its  construction,  I  am  told  by  the  contractor, 


214  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

the  workmen  were  let  down  by  strong  ropes,  and 
held  almost  in  mid  air,  while  drilling  and  blasting. 

There  is  no  fear  regarding  the  durability  of  this 
road-bed,  for  it  has  existed  since  the  beginning  of 
the  earth,  and  is  composed  of  solid  granite,  whose 
natural  foundation  is  two  thousand  feet  in  depth. 
Upon  this  immovable  support  the  railroad  finds  its 
perch.  These  wooden  trestles  spanning  the  gorges 
are  to  be  replaced  with  structures  of  iron  and 
steel. 

At  the  White  Pass  Canon,  we  are  far  above  the 
snow  line,  travelling  through  a  white  world  of  sur- 
passing beauty. 

At  the  tunnel,  we  are  switched  back,  and  train 
and  engine  are  reversed;  also  at  Round  House. 
Our  altitude  now  is  2,200  feet.  As  we  stop  to  ad- 
just the  engine  and  train,  I  walk  away  from  the 
track,  about  a  hundred  feet,  and  from  a  deep 
crevasse  gather  huge  snowballs,  with  which  I  pelt 
the  passengers,  to  the  amusement  of  all  of  us. 
Think  of  a  genuine  snowball  fight  on  the  twenty- 
ninth  day  of  June,  with  the  sun  shining  brightly 
down  upon  us! 

During  the  winter  months  severe  gales  rage 
through  these  gorges,  and  the  temperature  falls 
to  thirty-five  degrees  below  zero.    Much  credit  is 


Over  White  Pass  to  Lake  Bennett     217 

due  to  the  excellent  management  and  system  of 
this  railroad  company  for  the  fact  that  during  the 
whole  winter  season,  there  were  only  three  weeks 
of  impassible  roads  by  reason  of  heavy  snow-drifts. 
With  the  exception  of  these,  the  trains  made  their 
runs  in  all  kinds  of  weather,  forcing  a  passage 
through  almost  insurmountable  obstacles.  One  of 
the  snow  cuts,  I  am  told,  through  which  engines 
and  trains  passed,  was  thirty  feet  in  depth. 

A  telegraph  line  is  established  between  Skagway 
and  Dawson  City.  The  rate  is,  I  believe,  two  dol- 
lars and  a  half  for  ten  words.  At  one  time  during 
the  construction  of  the  road,  seventeen  hundred  men 
were  employed.  Laborers  were  paid  fifty  cents  a 
day  more  than  the  men  who  worked  on  the  end  of 
the  line.  The  tracks  are  single  to  the  summit,  and 
to  Lake  Bennett,  and  two  passenger  trains  are  run 
daily. 

As  my  eyes  follow  the  old  Pack  Trail,  in  fancy  I 
see  the  brave  men  trudging  along  it  as  in  pioneer 
days,  enduring  untold  hardships  and  privations. 
Doubtless  many  a  poor  fellow  has  dropped  by  the 
wayside,  unable  to  reach  the  end  of  the  journey. 
As  the  summit  is  reached  an  expression  of  relief 
d^wns  upon  every  countenance.  Within  a  few  rods 
of  the  station  is  a  beautiful  lake,  with  clear  cop| 


2i8  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

waters,  which,  we  are  told,  abound  in  mountain 
trout  and  white  fish.  This  lake  is  at  an  elevation  of 
2,886  feet.  The  view  from  the  summit  fills  us  with 
delight,  notwithstanding  the  many  magnificent 
scenes  through  which  we  have  passed.  Groups  of 
icy  mountain  crests  surround  us,  glistening  in  the 
sun  like  great  diadems  of  precious  stones.  Every- 
thing about  us  seems  to  gleam  and  scintillate.  It  is 
a  scene  of  enchantment,  and  it  seems  that  at  any 
moment  the  magician  will  exclaim:  "Presto, 
change!  "  the  whole  picture  will  disappear,  and  we 
will  find  ourselves  moving  about  in  our  every-day 
earthly  atmosphere. 

The  road  is  being  repaired  by  a  corps  of  work- 
men, whose  faces  are  screened  by  netting.  I  won- 
der at  this,  but  soon  learn  the  reason  in  a  very  prac- 
tical way.  Clouds  of  mosquitoes  fly  about  our 
faces,  annoying  us  beyond  expression.  Day  and 
night  these  pests  surround  one  in  these  high  lati- 
tudes, during  the  summer  season:  it  is  vain  to  hope 
to  escape  them. 

I  am  invited  by  some  of  my  companions  to  take  a 
glass  of  beer  in  a  small  frame  building  close  by,  with 
the  words  Stage  Saloon  painted  over  the  door.  The 
beverage  is  cool  and  refreshing,  and  costs  seventy 
cents  a  quart. 


Over  White  Pass  to  Lake  Bennett     219 

A  number  of  our  party  have  climbed  to  the  ex- 
treme point  of  the  summit,  and  planted  the  Ameri- 
can and  British  flags  on  their  respective  sides,  and 
when  our  photographs  are  tai<en  as  we  stand  there, 
we  call  the  picture  "  Under  Two  Flags." 

As  we  descend  the  mountain  to  Lake  Bennett,  we 
come  upon  the  chain  of  three  lakes  which  form  the 
head  waters  of  the  great  Yukon  River,  They  are 
called  Summit,  Middle  and  Shallow  Lakes.  The 
first  two  are  six  miles,  the  last,  three-quarters  of  a 
mile  in  length,  in  winter,  ice  forms  here  to  a  thick- 
ness of  four  feet.  We  pass  several  odd,  primitive 
looking  hotels  and  stations.  One  of  the  former 
boasts  of  the  original  sign:  "The  Nugget  Sunset 
House." 

By  gradual  descent,  amidst  exquisite  views  of 
mountain  and  forest,  we  come  to  Bennett  City,  and 
the  end  of  our  route.  It  is  the  intention  of  the  rail- 
road company  to  extend  the  road  as  far  as  Dawson 
City,  a  distance  of  five  hundred  miles,  and  the  work 
is  being  rapidly  pushed  forward.  When  finished, 
the  present  delays,  hardships,  and  risks  of  life  and 
property,  between  these  points  will  be  reduced  to  a 
minimum.  So  the  irresistible  power  of  progress 
opens  the  way  for  the  traveller  and  adventurer, 
cleaving  the  massive  boulders,  leveling  the  moun- 


220  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

tains  and  bridging  the  chasms,  that  it  may  girdle  the 
globe  with  its  bands  of  iron,  and  plant  its  standard 
with  its  watchword  "  Excelsior,"  upon  hitherto  in- 
accessible summits. 

As  the  old  pioneer  tote  trail,  still  visible,  winds  in 
and  out  along  the  mountain-side  amid  grand  and 
wonderful  scenery,  I  cannot  help  contrasting  our 
present  luxurious  mode  of  travel  with  those  early 
days  of  adventure  and  enthusiasm.  Yet  for  every 
gain,  something  is  lost,  and  though  we  think  with 
pity  of  the  little  bands  of  fortune-seekers,  with  their 
knapsacks  strapped  upon  their  backs,  making  step 
by  step,  the  arduous  journey  of  hundreds  of  miles 
to  a  home  in  the  wilderness,  we  lose  sight  of  the 
hopes  that  brightened  the  pathway,  the  companion- 
ship that  lightened  the  burdens.  What  great  ex- 
pectations, what  joyous  excitement  filled  the  hours 
as  they  pressed  forward  into  these  unknown  regions. 
What  close  ties  are  knit  between  congenial  spirits 
by  labors  and  privations  shared  together,  and  what 
opportunities  are  offered  daily,  nay  hourly,  for  deeds 
of  heroism  and  self-sacrifice.  We,  sitting  in  our 
comfortable  compartments,  know  nothing  of  the  ex- 
perience of  those  days  of  close  communion  with 
nature — the  nights  of  dreamless  slumber — the  mag- 
netism of  continuous  contact  with  Mother  Earth. 


Over  White  Pass  to  Lake  Bennett     221 

It  is  true  we  have  gained  much  in  these  days  of 
wonderful  scientific  knowledge,  but  we  have  lost 
something  as  well. 

Bennett  City  is  situated  at  an  elevation  of  2,200 
feet,  about  800  feet  lower  than  the  White  Pass  Sum- 
mit. Indescribable  are  our  feelings  on  beholding 
this  white  city  of  the  far  north.  From  an  elevated 
point,  we  take  a  bird's-eye  view  of  the  town.  Here 
is  plenty  of  space  for  him  who  would  build  a  home 
untroubled  by  close  neighbors— plenty  of  space  for 
his  neighbors,  too.  A  score  or  more  of  wooden 
houses  of  primitive  structure  meet  the  eyes,  and 
dozens  of  tents,  in  which  miners  and  railroad  em- 
ployees dwell  temporarily.  The  white  canvas 
gleams  out  in  picturesque  contrast  v/ith  the  majes- 
tic mountains  at  the  feet  of  which  they  are  scat- 
tered. Upon  the  barren  slopes  are  deep  crevasses, 
filled  with  snow,  which  trails  down  in  graceful 
wreaths  to  the  base  of  the  mountains  and  lightens 
the  deep  purples  and  browns,  forming  a  rich  har- 
mony of  color.  In  the  distance  are  indications  of  a 
Christian  settlement,  for  a  large  church  with  a  tall 
belfry,  from  its  elevated  position,  overlooks  its  con- 
gregation, as  they  pursue  their  weekly  avocations, 
and  on  the  Sabbath  calls  them,  from  their  labors,  to 
gather  here  for  a  service  of  prayer  and  thanksgiv-< 


222  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

ing.  In  my  conversations  witii  many  of  the  brave 
men  who  have  made  their  way  into  this  frozen  re- 
gion, I  have  always  observed  a  respect  for  the  forms 
and  ceremonies  of  religion,  and  a  trust  in  the  Divine 
Ruler  of  all  things.  Many  of  them  are  members  of 
some  religious  sect,  and  not  once  have  I  heard  them 
use  sacrilegious  expressions,  or  appear  ignorant  of 
their  duty  to  their  church  and  their  community. 

"  At  church,  with  meek  and  unaffected  grace, 
His  looks  adorned  the  venerable  place." 

The  temperature  is  pleasant,  and  the  pure  air  fills 
our  lungs  with  new  life,  our  spirits  with  a  joy- 
ous exhilaration.  Fresh  evidences  of  the  energy  of 
man  are  constantly  meeting  us,  as  he  labors  with 
untiring  zeal  to  benefit  his  fellow-beings  by  opening 
up  new  fields  of  enterprise.  Church  and  railroad 
are  of  incalculable  influence  in  these  districts.  This 
settlement  is  typical  of  many  others  throughout  the 
gold  regions  of  Alaska.  The  people  are  pleasant 
and  generally  hospitable,  welcoming  gladly  the  in- 
flux of  visitors  from  the  outside  world. 

1  stand  upon  the  shore  of  Lake  Bennett,  whose 
beautiful  waters  are  refreshing  to  the  weary  trav- 
eller. On  either  side  stand  giant  sentinels,  lifting 
their  lofty  summits  thousands  of  feet  above  me. 
Not  far  off  groups  of  men  are  hard  at  work  on  some 


Over  White  Pass  to  Lake  Bennett     223 

barges,  for  Bennett  has  been  the  scene  of  many 
operations  in  this  line.  There  is  much  timber  suit- 
able for  the  purpose  in  the  neighborhood,  and  a 
small  sawmill  is  run.  Every  one  makes  boats, 
either  for  sale  or  to  hire.  These  boats  are  from 
twenty-six  to  thirty  feet  in  length,  flat  bottomed, 
and  spread  at  the  sides. 

At  the  time  of  the  first  rush  for  the  gold  fields, 
Bennett  was  one  of  the  busiest  places  to  be  found 
in  the  country.  It  is  said  that  within  but  a  few 
months  hundreds  of  craft  of  every  size  and  shape 
were  launched  upon  the  lake,  and  the  shore  was 
packed  with  tents.  The  Bennett  Lake  and  Klondike 
Navigation  Company  have  built  a  number  of  small 
steamers  for  the  navigation  of  the  upper  Yukon, 
which  lessens  materially  the  average  of  individual 
barges  nov/  employed  to  convey  passengers  and 
merchandise  to  Dawson  City.  As  I  view  the  inter- 
esting scene,  two  barges  leave  the  wharf  for  their 
adventurous  journey  to  the  Klondike  regions.  The 
worldly  wealth  of  the  travellers  is  stored  upon  the 
boats,  and  the  men  as  they  stand  about,  talk  cheer- 
fully together.  Here  and  there  an  apparently  friend- 
less voyager  sits  apart  from  the  crowd,  in  solitary 
meditation.  The  lake,  the  boats,  the  surroundings 
are  picturesque  and  charming  enough  for: 


224  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

"  One  of  those  passing  rainbow  dreams, 

Half  light,  half  shade,  which  Fancy's  beams 
Paint  in  the  fleeting  mists  that  roll 
In  trance  or  slumber  round  the  soul." 


Not  far  away  is  the  Bennett  of  pioneer  days,  be- 
fore the  railroad  extended  its  long  arms  into  this  re- 
gion. The  town  seems  to  consist  almost  entirely 
of  saloons,  restaurants  and  hotels. 

The  following  are  some  of  the  signs  painted  con- 
spicuously on  these  buildings:  "The  New  Arctic 
Saloon."  "The  Simpson  Hotel:  Good  Beds — 
Meals,  50  Cents." — "Harry's  Restaurant."  "Meals 
— Beds — Bunks — 2^  Cents."  "Meals,  25  Cents  and 
Up." 

It  appears  as  though  the  people  here  do  nothing 
but  eat  and  sleep.  But  no,  at  long  intervals  appears 
such  a  variety  as:  "Miss  Sanna  Simpson,  Customs 
Broker." 

There  is  but  one  street,  as  yet  unnamed.  Just  as 
I  begin  to  feel  the  pangs  of  hunger,  Mr.  Heney  ap- 
proaches to  invite  about  a  dozen  of  our  party  to  dine 
with  him.  In  perfect  unison  we  accept  most  cheer- 
fully, and  are  escorted  to  a  large  log  cabin,  contain- 
ing a  spacious  dining-room,  with  rough,  unpainled 
tables,  and  benches  without  backs.  A  table-cloth 
honors  our  presence  at  one  of  these  tables,  but  we 


Over  White  Pass  to  Lake  Bennett     227 

are  served  with  the  same  tin  cups,  plates,  spoons, 
etc.,  which  are  used  by  the  working  men.  The 
room  is  capable  of  accommodating  three  hundred 
and  fifty  men  at  one  time.  Men  wait  on  us,  and 
the  meal  consists  of  good  hot  coffee,  tea,  bacon  and 
beans — bread,  brown  and  white — prunes  and  canned 
corn.  For  dessert  one  is  allowed  a  second  helping. 
Mr.  Heney  proves  a  delightful  host,  and  we  have  a 
very  enjoyable  dinner.  So  it  is  when  mind  and 
body  are  at  peace.  We  are  happy — a  king  can  be 
no  more. 

This  is  British  territory,  and  we  find  soldiers  sta- 
tioned along  the  route  to  protect  the  English  inter- 
ests. The  enchanting  scenes  repeat  themselves  as 
we  return  to  Skagway,  but  this  only  adds  to  the 
interest  with  which  we  watch  for  them,  often  per- 
ceiving new  beauties  which  escaped  our  eyes  be- 
fore, and  probably  a  dozen  journeys  over  this  route 
would  still  leave  some  charming  vista,  or  pictur- 
esque ravine  to  surprise  us  should  we  stray  again 
into  this  region  of  lofty  and  sublime  effects. 

Upon  a  distant  mountain  I  espy  a  lonely  pros- 
pector, following  in  the  steps  of  his  faithful  pack- 
horse;  on  his  way,  doubtless,  to  the  Klondike.  A 
weary  march,  but  his  soul  is  filled  with  hope,  and 
even  now,  perhaps  he  sees  himself,  in  anticipation 


228  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

returning  home  to  startle  his  little  world  with  the 
wealth  of  a  millionaire.  What  wonderful  allure- 
ment lies  in  the  prospect  of  a  fortune  speedily 
made!    How  it  works  upon  the  mind  of  man  and  — 

"  Tempts  him  from  the  blandishments  of  home, 
Mountains  to  climb,  and  frozen  seas  to  roam." 


Glacier  Bay,  Muir 

Glacier,  and  Killisnoo 


CHAPTER  VIII 
Glacier  Bay,  Muir  Glacier,  and  Killisnoo 

Leaving  Skagway — Catching  Ice — Glacier  Bay — Scenes  at  Night 
— Among  the  Icebergs — Wonderful  Shapes — Aquatic  Birds — 
Bartlett  Bay — Willoughby  Island — The  Silent  City — Sea-gulls 
— First  Glimpse  of  Muir  Glacier — Arctic  Scenery — Inexhaust- 
ible Stores — The  Face  of  the  Glacier — Pressure  of  the  Ice  Floes 
— An  Exciting  Moment — A  Stupendous  Spectacle — A  Giant 
among  the  Giants — Dundas  Bay — San  Tereta — Surrounded 
by  Canoes — The  Natives — Buying  Curios — A  Tattered  Hat — 
Old  Moccasins — Indian  Village — Sunday — A  Lonely  Shore — 
On  Terra  Firma — Killisnoo — Schools  of  Herring — Oil  Works 
— The  Schooner — Large  Hauls — The  Angler — Extracting  the 
Oil — Fisheries — A  Russian  Chapel — Saginaw  Jake — The 
Kootznahoos — A  Peaceful  Tribe — Indian  Tents — Squaws — 
Not  to  be  Bribed — A  Picture  by  Strategy — The  Village  Street 
— Wares  for  Sale — Tides — No  Physicians. 

ANY  of  the  citizens  assemble  on  the  land- 
ing at  Si^agway  to  see  us  off.  At  the 
same  time  there  is  some  little  excite- 
ment, for  it  is  known  to  several  of  the 
passengers  that  we  are  to  carry  to  Sitka  for  trial,  five 
Indians  who  are  implicated  in  the  murder  of  a  white 
man  and  his  wife.     The  victims  had  come  here  to 

prospect,  and  were  found  dead  in  this  vicinity.     A 

231 


a 


232  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

number  of  the  Indians'  friends  accompany  them, 
and  as  I  look  into  their  faces,  expressions  of  cruelty 
and  cunning  betray  the  fact  that  they  are  in  sym- 
pathy with  the  criminals.  Owing  to  a  dense  fog, 
we  are  delayed  in  starting;  but  at  last  the  mist  rises, 
the  bell  rings,  and  amid  a  chorus  of  cheers  and  good 
wishes,  we  leave  Skagway  for  Glacier  Bay.  The 
scenery  changes  perceptibly  as  we  enter  these 
waters.  How  rich  are  the  color  effects — how  sub- 
lime the  lights  and  shadows!  What  dazzling  views 
greet  us  in  this  region  of  perpetual  winter!  Here 
ice  takes  the  place  of  foliage  and  flowers,  and  the 
fresh  verdure  which  has  hitherto  accompanied  our 
passage.  A  gleaming  wonderland  spreads  out  its 
wealth  of  beauty  before  us. 

It  is  the  custom  of  the  steamers  to  gather  their 
supplies  of  ice  in  this  region;  and  now  as  the  order 
is  given,  a  small  boat,  manned  by  an  officer  and 
four  sailors  is  lowered,  and  the  ship  lies  at  anchor 
while  the  search  is  made  for  a  clear  solid  block. 
This  is  speedily  discovered  and  captured.  A  net  is 
adroitly  slipped  beneath  the  crystal  mass,  and  it  is 
towed  slowly  to  the  side  of  the  steamer.  The  rope 
is  attached  to  a  huge  derrick,  and  at  the  word  of 
command  the  pulleys  are  set  in  motion,  and  the  ice- 
berg is  transferred  from  its  watery  bed  to  the  deck 


Glacier  Bay,  Muir  Glacier,  Killisnoo    233 

of  the  steamer.  It  is  pure  emerald  in  color,  and 
appears  a  mountain  in  size. 

This  is  surely  the  greatest  ice  storehouse  in  the 
world.  Thousands  of  tons  float  slowly  down  the 
water,  and  through  seemingly  pathless  channels  to 
the  sea.  Truly,  this  is  a  most  wonderful  body  of 
water.  Take  with  me  a  brief  glance  from  the 
steamer's  deck,  as  we  glide  past  these  magnificent 
shores,  at  this  season  of  the  year,  flooded  with  un- 
dying daylight.  The  sun  in  his  descending  splen- 
dor, is  visible  at  ten  o'clock  at  night,  and  after  sink- 
ing below  the  horizon,  leaves  in  his  wake  a  twilight 
that  remains  to  greet  him  on  his  reappearance  at 
three  o'clock  in  the  morning.  You  may  take  an 
instantaneous  photograph  at  ten  o'clock  at  night, 
and  be  rewarded  by  a  picture  with  brilliant  cloud 
effects,  and  a  charming  bit  of  scenery.  The  student 
requires  no  oil  for  his  midnight  lamp,  for  the  great 
luminary  of  the  Creator  is  his  at  will. 

The  panorama  is  indescribably  beautiful  during 
these  hours.  The  bay  is  framed  in  snow-clad 
mountains,  sloping  gracefully  to  the  water's  edge. 
Wild  and  picturesque  is  the  view,  with  its  impene- 
trable ravines,  its  scintillating  moraines  and  glaciers, 
its  steep  gorges  and  wonderful  shapes.  But  why 
attempt  to  describe  it  ?    Look  with  me.     Behold 


234  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

the  dazzling  glory  of  it  all;    and  tell  me,  can  any 
region  in  the  universe  surpass  the  beauty  of  this 
enchanting  spot  ?    The  waters  around  us  reflect  in 
their  shimmering  waves  these  fairy  views,  illumi- 
nated by  the  red  glow  of  the  descending  sun,  and 
plash  softly  the  feet  of  the  glaciers  and  the  ice  floes 
whose  iridescent  colors  rival  those  of  the  rainbow. 
Now  and  then  a  tiny  white  sail  marks  the  boat  of  a 
solitary  Indian,  making  some  harbor,  whither  you 
cannot  guess,  for  no  human  beings  appear  to  dvi'ell 
in  this  region.     Hundreds  of  wildly  screaming  sea- 
gulls   flutter    about    the   prow  of    our  vessel.     A 
tender,  misty  veil  encircles  the  base  of  the  distant 
mountains,  and  still  the  sun,  as  in  his  prime,  smiles 
gloriously,   and    the  huge    icebergs    gathering    so 
closely  about  our  ship  respond  with  dazzling  light. 
Muir  Glacier  is  yet  about  twenty  miles  distant,  and 
there  is  some  doubt  of  our  coming  into  close  prox- 
imity to  one  of  the  greatest  wonders  of  these  Arctic 
regions;  for  on  the  twentieth  of  last  October,  (1899) 
the  wall  of  the  glacier  was  so  shattered  by  an  earth- 
quake, that  dense  ice  packs  are  constantly  forming 
in  its  vicinity,  preventing  steamers  from  approach- 
ing nearer  than  six  miles  from  its  base.     However, 
our  gallant  ship  pushes  forward  with  great  deter- 
mination, and  we  live  in  hope. 


Glacier  Bay,  Muir  Glacier,  Killisnoo    237 

None  of  us  can  forget  the  experience  of  these 
hours  amid  the  massive  floes  which  press  so  closely 
to  our  sides.  Varied  and  wonderful  are  the  shapes 
of  these  frozen  waters — picturesque,  fairylike,  grim 
and  awful,  their  ranks  close  about  us,  and  we  seem 
to  be  in  the  power  of  the  wizard  who  holds  beneath 
his  spell  all  these  castles  and  cathedrals;  these  rocks 
and  trees;  these  monsters  of  the  deep  and  creatures 
of  the  land;  transforming  them  into  ice  and  group- 
ing them  here  as  everlasting  monuments  of  his  in- 
vincible might.  Here,  set  in  a  background  of  deep 
blue,  are  wonderful  icy  forests;  here  stand  in  im- 
movable majesty  the  obelisks  of  the  Nile;  and  about 
these  grand  and  awful  images  sport  sea-gulls  and 
wild  ducks,  whole  families  often  perching  them- 
selves upon  the  floating  masses  and  sailing  serenely 
towards  the  open  sea. 

Our  passengers  are  all  closely  observing  the  glit- 
tering pageant,  and  watching  for  the  appearance  of 
whales,  seals,  or  schools  of  fish.  At  times  some 
one  startles  us  with  the  cry  that  a  seal  is  visible 
basking  in  the  sun  on  a  huge  ice  floe.  Every 
glass  is  quickly  leveled  in  the  direction  indi- 
cated, only  to  perceive  the  dense  shadow  cast 
by  a  projecting  rock  upon  the  iceberg  floating 
slowly  past  it. 


238  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

Here  and  there  on  the  mountain-sides  a  group  of 
hardy  evergreens  presents  a  charming  contrast  to  the 
glittering  masses  of  ice  and  snow  about  it.  The 
temperature  falls  perceptibly  as  we  advance,  and  the 
masses  of  floating  ice  around  us  become  more  dense, 
some  of  them  rising  eight,  ten,  and  even  twenty 
feet  above  the  water.  As  fresh  water  ice  is  said  to 
present  only  one-eighth  of  its  thickness  above  the 
water,  when  floating,  we  are  able  to  judge  of  the 
great  depth  of  these  bergs.  The  prow  of  the  ves- 
sel is  protected  by  heavy  timbers,  and  we  feel  the 
shock  as  it  goes  crashing  through  the  closely  packed 
blue  and  emerald  shapes. 

Passing  Bartlett  Bay,  beyond  which  gleaming  sum- 
mits rise  to  heights  of  from  3, 500  to  4,000  feet,  we 
glide  slowly  by  Willoughby  Island.  Strain  our  eyes 
as  we  may,  we  see  no  trace  of  the  Silent  City  which 
has  been  said  to  appear  in  this  region  during  the 
longest  days  of  the  year.  We  would  give  much  to 
behold  this  entrancing  vision,  which  it  seems, 
appears  only  to  the  natives  and  a  few  highly  favored 
souls.  No  glow  of  radiant  light  upon  the  mountain 
front  presages  the  appearance  of  those  majestic 
cathedrals;  those  gorgeous  windows;  noble  palaces 
and  stately  avenues  of  trees  stretching  far  away  in 
the  distance.     The  solemn  music  of  the  cathedrals, 


Glacier  Bay,  Muir  Glacier,  Killisnoo    239 

the  chimes  of  bells  mingling  their  happy  melodies 
are  not  for  us,  but  the  beauties  of  this  mundane 
sphere  surround  us  in  rich  profusion,  and  never  fail 
to  win  their  meed  of  enthusiasm  and  delight. 

Ducks  and  other  aquatic  creatures  still  float  and 
fly  quite  near;  the  icebergs  grow  taller,  more  pic- 
turesque, and  the  floes  clasp  us  more  closely  as  we 
advance.  Slowly,  and  more  slowly  still,  our  good 
ship  makes  her  way,  the  struggle  with  the  huge 
blocks  sending  tremors  through  her  powerful  frame. 
Still  she  is  victor  in  the  battle,  crushing  one  after 
another  of  the  giant  masses  which  try  to  impede 
her  way.  The  screaming  gulls  fly  so  near  that  we 
feel  almost  tempted  to  catch  one  of  them,  and  hold 
him  on  deck  while  we  demand  the  reason  of  this 
violent  disapproval  of  our  proceedings. 

Our  motion  is  now  scarcely  perceptible,  and  the 
scene  about  us  beyond  expression.  We  seem  to 
have  encountered  a  vast  army  of  icebergs  which  are 
determined  to  prevent  our  farther  progress — huge, 
massive,  inexorable,  they  face  us  in  all  the  varied 
shapes  of  this  frozen  region.  Here  a  great  elephant 
would  like  to  twist  his  trunk  about  our  ship  and  hurl 
it  scornfully  from  his  path.  Here,  alligators,  sharks, 
whales  are  waiting  to  leap  upon  us  in  a  body  and 
crush  us  out  of  existence.     Hundreds  of  gulls  settle 


240  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

upon  these  icy  monsters,  fly  away  at  our  approach, 
and  as  quickly  return  to  their  favorite  resting-places. 
Two  large  eagles  soar  above  us,  circling  round  and 
round,  as  though  loath  to  leave  us. 

Now  we  have  our  first  glimpse  of  Muir  Glacier, 
about  six  miles  away  and  directly  ahead  of  us.  We 
are  completely  surrounded  by  the  floating  ice,  and 
feel  constant  shocks,  as  the  ship  forces  her  way 
through  it,  pushing  the  masses  aside,  and  often 
lifting  them  bodily  from  the  water.  We  make  a 
detour  around  the  base  of  a  mountain  to  avoid  an 
enormous,  impenetrable  block.  It  is  quite  possible 
that  we  may  not  reach  the  foot  of  the  glacier,  as  the 
ice  pack  grows  continually  more  solid  and  heavy. 
Some  fear  is  expressed  that  we  will  break  the  pro- 
peller, and  thus  find  ourselves  helpless  in  the  power 
of  Alaska's  merciless  tyrants.  The  Arctic  scenery 
grows  constantly  more  vivid,  our  surroundings  more 
startlingly  beautiful.  We  entertain  ourselves  with 
the  fantastic  shapes  around  us — wild,  weird,  solemn, 
fierce,  graceful,  majestic  and  imposing  beyond 
description.  Each  passenger  beholds  something 
invisible  to  the  others.  Each  is  thrilled  with  a  mys- 
terious presence  which  appears  for  him  alone. 
Each,  out  of  the  scenes  of  his  life,  recalls  here  a  like- 
ness familiar  to  his  youth.     Each  unconsciously  feels 


Glacier  Bay,  Muir  Glacier,  Killisnoo    241 

the  glamour  of  some  olden  dream.  Inexhaustible 
is  the  store  from  which  a  universe  may  draw. 

An  immense  iceberg  has  just  toppled  over,  with  a 
report  equal  to  that  of  a  great  cannon,  and  the 
echoes  accompany  it  with  their  myriad  voices,  as  it 
is  carried  down  the  bay.  Over  and  over  it  rolls, 
vainly  endeavoring  to  regain  its  equilibrium,  and 
ruffling  the  water  into  great  waves.  At  last  it  finds 
a  peaceful  bed,  and  we  too,  are  relieved  when  its 
struggles  are  over,  and  have  peace  ourselves  until 
another  great  berg  yields  to  its  inevitable  fate,  and 
falls  shuddering  down  among  its  fellows.  The 
waters  are  of  a  greenish  blue;  the  icebergs  white 
on  the  surface,  with  mingled  blue  and  emerald  on 
their  wild  and  jagged  edges.  The  mountains  are  of 
misty  purple  and  lavender  tones,  and  their  vivid  re- 
flections in  the  water  are  entrancingly  beautiful. 

How  the  steamer  strains  to  force  her  huge  bulk 
farther  and  farther  into  this  dangerous  mass  of  ice! 
Inch  by  inch  she  makes  her  way,  in  spite  of  warn- 
ing notes  and  threatening  appearances. 

The  injury  to  the  glacier  caused  by  the  earthquake 
of  1899  is  now  apparent;  for  the  once  upright  wall 
is  changed  to  a  surface  sloping  from  its  highest 
point  to  the  water's  edge.  It  now  has  the  appear- 
ance of  a  vast  cataract  rushing  madly  into  the  bay, 


242  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

with  great  wings  spreading  out  on  either  side.  It 
reaches  the  sea  by  a  gateway,  two  miles  and  a  half 
in  width,  between  the  spurs  of  two  lofty  moun- 
tains, and  is  surrounded  by  summits  averging  from 
four  thousand  to  six  thousand  feet  above  the  sea. 
Its  icy  cliffs,  a  mile  and  three-quarters  in  length,  rise 
from  a  hundred  to  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above 
the  bay,  and  extend  nine  hundred  feet  below  its 
surface.  It  slopes  backward  to  the  mountains,  from 
ten  to  thirteen  miles  distant.  Inexpressibly  grand 
and  awful  is  the  appearance  of  this  glacier.  Thou- 
sands of  crevasses  and  great  fissures  cross  its  jagged 
surface,  as  it  stretches  away  in  the  winding  course 
between  the  steep  mountain  gorges.  From  its 
rugged  surface,  great  masses  of  ice  are  constantly 
falling  into  the  water  with  a  thundering  crash  that 
may  be  heard  for  miles. 

Our  Captain  pushes  the  steamer  on  in  spite  of  the 
increased  pressure  of  the  floes,  until  we  are  within 
four  miles  of  the  glacier,  when  he  is  compelled  to 
yield  to  the  superior  force  without.  From  the 
ship's  bridge  rings  out  the  order:  "Stop,"  followed 
quickly  by  the  signal  to  turn  about.  It  is  an  excit- 
ing moment.  The  icebergs  press  hard  against  the 
ship's  sides,  and  creak  ominously.  The  wheels 
turn,   then    stop,   apparently   wedged   in  the  ice. 


Glacier  Bay,  Muir  Glacier,  Killisnoo    243 

Many,  many  attempts  are  made  without  effect.  A 
slight  thrill  of  alarm  is  felt  among  the  passengers. 
"What  is  to  be  done?"  is  murmured  from  one  to 
another.  At  this  juncture  several  great  icebergs, 
towering  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  above  us, 
topple  over  with  such  a  sound  that  we  feel  that 
we  are  being  cannonaded.  Great  showers  of 
spray  rise  almost  to  the  top  of  the  glacier,  and 
now  bergs  continue  tumbling  around  us,  while  the 
steamer  struggles  to  extricate  herself  from  their  icy 
grasp.  Determination  on  the  side  of  the  captain, 
and  the  strenuous  efforts  of  the  crew,  are  at  length 
crowned  with  success,  and  slowly,  slowly  the 
vessel  turns,  and  begins  to  move  towards  open 
water.  We  all  breathe  more  freely,  and  I  overhear 
the  captain  say:  "Possibly  I  went  a  bit  too  far  into 
the  ice  jam." 

The  water  here  is  a  hundred  fathoms  deep.  The 
thermometer  at  our  nearest  point  to  the  glacier  reg- 
istered forty-four  degrees. 

The  actual  ice  surface  of  the  glacier  covers  about 
three  hundred  and  fifty  square  miles,  it  is  a  stu- 
pendous spectacle,  exhibiting  every  variety  of  form, 
exquisite  in  coloring,  massive  and  terrible  in  its 
slow  but  irresistible  progress  to  the  sea.  It  is  a 
giant  among  the  giants.     There  are  ten  other  vast 


244  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

glaciers  in  this  bay,  besides  a  number  of  smaller 
ones;  that  at  the  extreme  north  end  being  half  as 
large  again  as  Muir. 

Of  the  five  thousand  living  glaciers  which,  it  is 
said,  exist  along  this  coast  line,  hundreds  find  their 
way  to  the  level  of  the  sea,  many  of  them  discharg- 
ing icebergs  directly  into  the  sea.  The  daily  move- 
ment of  the  centre  of  the  Muir  is  estimated  at  about 
forty  feet. 

We  now  turn  our  bow  southward,  as  we  have 
reached  the  northern  limit  of  our  route  in  these 
waters.  It  is  not  long  before  we  drop  anchor  in  the 
pretty  Dundas  Bay,  opposite  the  village  of  San 
Tereta.  We  have  been  favored  with  a  clear  day, 
and  brilliant  sunlight;  now  the  afternoon  is  declin- 
ing, and  the  water  is  so  calm  that  scarcely  a  ripple 
stirs  the  surface  of  the  bay.  Our  steamer  home 
seems  like  a  great  hotel,  quietly  stationed  on  terra 
firma;  so  well  are  we  protected  from  the  more  ex- 
citable waters  of  the  Pacific. 

In  less  time  than  it  takes  to  tell  it,  we  are  sur- 
rounded by  innumerable  canoes,  manned  by  the  na- 
tives, who  handle  their  oars  with  skill  and  grace. 
What  a  picturesque  sight  they  make,  as  they  stand 
or  sit  in  their  light  boats,  robed  in  the  many 
colored  blankets,  with  their  gay  beads  and  bright 


San  Tereta,  Dundas  Bay 


See  page  244 


Glacier  Bay,  Mulr  Glacier,  Killisnoo    247 

hued  baskets  about  them.  Their  canoes  respond 
to  each  wave  of  the  bay  as  readily  as  a  floating 
eggshell.  The  steps  are  thrown  down  from  the 
deck  to  the  water,  and  the  Indians  crowd  quickly 
upon  the  steamer.  Upon  closer  acquaintance  they 
are  anything  but  attractive,  being  greasy  and 
homely,  and  none  too  clean.  They  approach  the 
passengers,  talking  in  their  native  gutteral  tongue, 
and  entreat  the  noble  white  faces  to  buy  their 
wares.  It  is  astonishing  to  see  how  eager  many  of 
the  tourists  are  to  accommodate  them.  Old  baskets, 
from  their  odor  apparently  used  for  carrying  fish, 
are  sold  so  rapidly  that  a  detachment  is  sent  off  in 
canoes  to  the  village  for  a  fresh  supply.  Old  shawls, 
spoons,  moccasins,  odd  pieces  that  I  would  not  care 
to  touch  are  exposed  for  sale,  and  find  ready  pur- 
chasers. 

"  O  wad  some  power  the  giftie  gie  us, 
To  see  oursels  as  others  see  us ! 
It  wad  frae  monie  a  blunder  free  us, 
And  foolish  notion." 

A  young  Indian  lad  and  girl  approach  the  group 
in  which  I  stand,  and  the  girl  extends  a  forlorn  and 
dilapidated  straw  hat  towards  me.  I  take  it  reluc- 
tantly, and  ask  her  the  price. 


248  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

"Two  dollars,"  is  the  reply. 

"What,  two  dollars  ?  "  I  exclaim. 

"Yes:  no  less." 

"O  Mr.  Taylor,  what  a  lovely  thing!  Do  you 
not  want  it  ? "  quickly  cries  a  young  lady  at  my 
side. 

"What,  that  dirty,  torn  and  unattractive  piece  of 
headgear?" 

"Well,  1  will  take  it,"  she  replies  eagerly,  and 
places  the  price  of  the  hat  in  the  girl's  hand.  1  do 
not  envy  her  her  prize.  Many  of  the  baskets  are 
daintily  woven  and  beautiful  in  color,  justly  com- 
manding high  prices.  An  Indian  of  large  propor- 
tions offers  to  sell  the  dingy  moccasins  on  his  feet, 
for  a  dollar.  The  offer  is  taken  up  by  one  of  our 
company,  and  removing  them,  the  red  man  quickly 
hands  them  to  the  purchaser,  as  though  fearing  he 
would  regret  his  bargain  before  it  is  too  late. 
Apart  from  the  throng  of  canoes  that  besiege  the 
steamer,  is  one  in  which  sit  three  old  squaws  and  a 
young  Indian  girl.  The  old  women  are  stout  and 
homely;  the  young  girl,  slender,  graceful  and 
comely.  They  do  not  appear  to  have  anything  for 
sale,  but  simply  paddle  about,  laughing  and  talking, 
and  watching  the  scene  on  board  the  steamer,  as 
they  skilfully  balance  their  canoe  against  the  current. 


Glacier  Bay,  Muir  Glacier,  Killisnoo    249 

It  is  strange  to  see  the  men  hand  the  money  they 
receive  to  the  squaws,  who  grasp  it  greedily,  and 
thrust  it  down  into  their  long  pockets.  I  wonder 
what  use  they  make  of  money.  They  do  not  buy 
clothing  with  it,  for  their  dress  is  simply  a  shawl 
and  a  skirt, — or  food,  for  the  fish  and  game  that 
abound  in  these  regions  are  more  than  sufficient  for 
their  needs.  Doubtless  there  is  a  secret  pleasure  in 
possessing  and  handling  that  with  which  the  white 
man  can  accomplish  so  much. 

We  are  detained  here  many  hours,  as  there  is  a 
large  cargo  of  empty  boxes  to  be  delivered  at  this 
port.  San  Tereta  is  a  great  fishing  station,  and  owns 
a  large  salmon  cannery, — hence  the  necessity  for  the 
empty  boxes.  The  constant  noise  of  the  windlass, 
as  it  raises  and  lowers  the  freight,  is  anything  but 
agreeable;  however,  as  one  becomes  accustomed  to 
the  sound,  he  forgets  to  notice  it.  The  Indians  offer 
to  row  us  to  their  village,  a  half  a  mile  away,  for  a 
trifling  sum,  and  many  of  us  take  advantage  of  the 
offer.  The  village  consists  of  about  forty  tents 
pitched  upon  the  beach.  The  scene,  as  we  ap- 
proach, is  pretty  and  picturesque,  but  the  tents, 
like  their  owners,  are  dirty  and  unattractive  on  close 
acquaintance. 

We  now  have  an  outside  view  of  the  many  ice 


250    Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

floes  which  lie  about  our  steamer:  beautiful  are  the 
varied  hues  reflected  from  their  vast  shining  surfaces. 
While  we  are  admiring  these,  a  deep  bass  whistle 
sounds  across  the  water.  It  is  an  order  for  all  pas- 
sengers to  go  aboard.  The  command  is  cheerfully 
obeyed,  the  anchor  is  hoisted,  the  great  engines  re- 
sume their  work,  and  we  say  farewell  to  San  Tereta, 
her  natives  and  her  curios. 

To-day  is  Sunday, — as  there  is  no  service  held  on 
board,  there  is  nothing  to  distinguish  it  from  any 
other  day  of  the  week.  We  are  steaming  through 
serene  waters,  bordered  on  either  side  by  wooded 
islands,  mountain  walls  and  inlets.  The  country 
has  a  lonely,  deserted  appearance.  Save  now  and 
then  a  distant  village,  no  houses  or  tents  are  discern- 
ible. The  strait  is  several  miles  wide  here,  and  we 
are  told  that  at  times  its  waters  are  so  turbulent  that 
navigation  is  impossible.  The  temperature  in  the 
shade  at  nine  o'clock  in  the  morning  is  fifty-six  de- 
grees. 

Our  course  is  to  the  village  of  Killisnoo,  on  Ke- 
nasnow  Island,  and  as  we  draw  near  the  harbor,  we 
can  take  in  at  a  glance  the  handful  of  little  houses 
of  one  story,  which  being  on  a  slight  elevation,  have 
a  fine  water  view.  The  steamer  is  made  fast  to  a 
primitive  wharf,  and  we  hasten  to  experience  the 


Glacier  Bay,  Muir  Glacier,  Killisnoo    25'! 

delight  of  treading  upon  solid  earth  again.  There 
is  no  such  regularity  in  our  progress  through  these 
settlements  and  villages,  as  appears  in  the  order  of 
the  academy  catalogues.  Each  one  goes  his  own 
way,  here  or  there  as  fancy  leads  him,  or  as  op- 
portunity offers  some  interesting  object  or  prospect 
for  his  observation.  I  have  found  this  method  of 
sightseeing  so  satisfactory  that  I  always  follow  it. 

Killisnoo  has  a  reputation  for  its  vast  oil  and 
guano  works.  Immense  schools  of  herring  resort 
hither,  and  the  largest  fish  oil  plant  in  the  world  was 
established  here  about  fifteen  years  ago.  The  vil- 
lage can  boast  of  a  post-office,  government  school, 
and  a  Russian  chapel.  Here  dvv^ell  the  Kootznahoo 
Indians  and  their  famous  chief,  Kitchnatti,  or  Sagi- 
naw Jack.  The  first  object  which  claims  our  atten- 
tion on  the  shore  is  the  enormous  oil  and  guano  fac- 
tory. At  the  wharf  lies  a  schooner  laden  with  great 
tubs  of  herring,  which  are  being  hoisted  into  cars 
overhead,  and  carried  down  an  inclined  track  to  the 
factory.  This  mill  is  capable  of  turning  out  annu- 
ally two  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  gallons  of  oil, 
which  is  shipped  to  San  Francisco  and  New  York. 
About  three  thousand  tons  of  the  fertilizer  are  also 
sent  annually  to  the  Hawaiian  Islands. 

The  captain  of  the  schooner  is  at  my  side,  and  in- 


252  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

forms  me  that  the  average  weight  of  the  herring  is 
from  a  quarter  of  a  pound  to  a  pound  and  a  half, 
and  that  the  largest  schools  are  found  fifty  or  sixty 
miles  from  the  village.  The  fish  are  caught  by 
means  of  seines.  The  load  of  the  present  schooner, 
amounting  to  eight  hundred  barrels,  has  been  taken 
in  one  haul,  and  it  is  not  uncommon  to  capture 
twelve  or  fifteen  hundred  barrels  at  one  time.  The 
patient  follower  of  Isaak  Walton  can  hardly  realize 
this  enormous  harvest  of  the  nets — especially  after 
sitting  long  hours  with  his  eyes  fixed  patiently  upon 
a  little  floating  object  on  the  water,  with  nothing  to 
reward  his  faithfulness: — and  if,  after  a  long  day 
spent  on  a  shady  bank  beneath  the  rustling  trees,  he 
brings  home  fifteen  or  twenty  fish  of  good  size,  he 
calls  his  friends  together,  and  rejoices  at  his  excep- 
tional luck;  but  his  meditative  mind  would  scorn 
this  wholesale  business  method  of  the  nets,  if  it 
could  be  brought  to  comprehend  it.  But  Isaak 
Walton  is  an  angler,  and  a  lover  of  the  sport. 

We  step  within  the  factory  to  witness  the  process, 
which  is  interesting.  The  small  cars,  holding  about 
a  ton  of  herring,  received  their  load  from  the 
schooner's  hold,  and  by  the  force  of  gravity  are  car- 
ried to  the  great  doorways  of  the  mill.  Here  their 
contents  are  shot  into  large  vats,  capable  of  contain- 


Glacier  Bay,  Muir  Glacier,  Killisnoo    253 

ing  several  car  loads.  The  vats  are  filled  with  water, 
and  the  fish  boiled  till  they  are  ready  to  fall  into 
shreds,  when  they  are  passed  into  another  vat, 
where  the  water  is  drained  off,  and  they  are  pressed 
until  the  oil  is  all  extracted.  The  pulp  or  residue  is 
dried  and  powdered,  and  used  as  a  fertilizer.  The 
factory  can  handle  about  eight  hundred  barrels  a  day. 

The  guide-book  contains  an  account  of  the  fish- 
eries of  this  region,  from  which  I  make  the  follow- 
ing extract: 

"  The  cod  which  abound  in  Chatham  Strait  were 
for  a  time  packed  at  Killisnoo,  the  natives  receiving 
two  cents  apiece  for  the  8,000  and  10,000  fish  of 
five  pounds'  average  weight  which  they  brought  in 
daily  from  their  trawls.  The  cod  were  dried 
artificially,  and  an  excellent  quality  of  cod-liver  oil 
was  made,  but  this  factory  could  not  compete  with 
the  Shumagin  fleet  which  controlled  the  market  at 
San  Francisco.  The  herring,  "which  has  decided 
the  destiny  of  nations."  next  made  the  fortunes  of 
Killisnoo.  From  September  to  May  all  these  waters 
are  visited  by  great  schools  of  herring,  and  once  in 
August  a  steamer  passes  through  one  school  for 
four  hours — the  water  silvered  as  far  as  could  be 
seen,  many  whales  and  flocks  of  gulls  attracted  by 
this  run  of  plenty.    The  natives  rake  them  from  the 


254  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

water  with  a  bit  of  lath  set  with  nails,  and  a  family 
can  fill  a  canoe  in  an  hour.  Spruce  branches  are 
laid  in  shallow  water  along  the  shore,  and  the 
herring  roe  deposited  on  them  are  stored  in  cakes 
for  winter  use.  The  same  processes  and  machinery 
are  used  at  Killisnoo  as  at  the  menhaden  factories 
in  the  East.  Each  barrel  of  fish  when  pressed 
yields  three  quarts  of  oil,  valued  at  twenty-five 
and  thirty-five  cents  a  gallon.  The  refuse  of  fifty 
barrels  of  fish,  dried  and  powdered,  furnishes  one 
ton  of  guano,  worth  thirty  dollars,  and  is  much  in 
demand  for  Hawaiian  sugar  plantations  and  Cali- 
fornia fruit  ranches." 

The  Russian  chapel  stands  on  a  hill  at  a  short 
distance  from  the  factory  and  as  we  approach  it,  we 
learn  that  service  is  being  held  within.  The  con- 
gregation consists  of  four  women,  one  man,  and 
two  little  girls,  all  natives.  The  interior  of  the 
chapel  is  pretty,  and  the  devout  attitude  of  the 
little  flock  proves  that  numbers  are  not  necessary 
for  the  earnestness  and  sincerity  of  true  worship. 

Of  course  we  all  wish  to  see  the  famous  Indian 
warrior:  and  another  short  walk  brings  us  to  a  little 
wooden  house,  whose  owner  strolls  about  in  his 
plain  attire,  as  peacefully  as  though  no  fierce 
revengeful  spirit  has  ever  animated  his  bosom. 


Glacier  Bay,  Muir  Glacier,  Killisnoo    257 

This  is  the  once  bloodthirsty  Kitchnatti,  who  was 
taken  prisoner  in  1869  by  Commander  Meade, 
U.  S.  N.,  and  conveyed  to  Mare  island,  California, 
where  he  was  confined  on  the  Saginaw  for  a  year. 
Many  traditions  are  related  of  the  Kootznahoos, 
whose  name,  it  is  said,  has  been  spelled  in  fifteen 
different  ways,  and  who  claim  a  different  origin 
from  the  other  Indians  of  Alaska.  But  these  peo- 
ple, like  the  other  red  men  of  America,  are  rapidly 
decreasing  in  numbers,  and  ere  many  centuries, 
their  names  will  be  heard  as  legends  of  the  past, 
and  their  scattered  tents  will  be  sought  in  vain 
along  these  shores,  beneath  the  forest  trees  or  by 
the  rushing  waterfalls. 

Sharp  are  the  contrasts  between  the  past  and  the 
present — lii<e  a  scene  in  a  farce  is  the  modern  life  of 
the  old  chieftain  who  wears  a  shabby  uniform,  and 
posts  the  following  verses  over  his  cabin  door: 

"KITCHNATTI" 
"  By  the  Governor's  commission, 
And  the  company's  permission, 
I'm  made  the  Grand  Tyhee 
Of  this  entire  illabee. 

f  Prominent  in  song  and  story, 
I've  attained  the  top  of  glory. 
As  '  Saginaw  '  I'm  known  to  fame, 
♦  Jake '  is  but  my  common  name,'' 


258  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

The  village  has  but  a  single  street,  on  one  side  of 
which  is  a  row  of  houses  and  tents  facing  the 
beautiful  waters  of  Chatham  Strait.  Here  the 
women  display  their  wares,  consisting  of  trinkets, 
beads  and  baskets  made  of  grass  and  bark,  and  the 
men  offer  for  sale  the  skins  of  deer,  otter,  bear  and 
other  game  which  abounds  in  this  region.  Here  we 
see  a  black  kettle  of  unsavory  appearance  suspended 
over  a  small  wood-fire,  and  a  group  of  natives 
gathered  around  it.  An  old  woman  is  now  wash- 
ing her  face  in  the  kettle,  and  three  children  at  her 
side  seem  to  be  waiting  their  turn.  Later  we  per- 
ceive many  of  these  fires  and  kettles  in  front  of  the 
tents,  and  suppose  that  this  is  the  customary 
manner  of  making  the  toilet.  Some  of  the  tents  are 
composed  of  pieces  of  canvas  placed  over  old 
canoes  and  other  boats.  Here  and  there  crossed 
poles  are  securely  driven  into  the  ground,  upon 
which  fish,  skins  and  pieces  of  meat  are  hung  to 
dry  in  the  sun. 

Many  of  the  squaws  are  mending  nets,  others  sit 
idly  behind  their  wares,  apparently  indifferent 
whether  we  purchase  or  not.  The  women  are  all 
shy,  especially  of  the  camera.  It  is  difficult  to 
photograph  them.  1  offer  a  young  squaw  fifty 
cents  to  be  allowed  to  take  her  picture,  but  she  is 


Glacier  Bay,  Muir  Glacier,  Killisnoo    259 

not  to  be  bribed.  A  handsome  Indian  girl,  evidently 
the  belle  of  the  village,  is  very  indignant  when  I 
level  my  camera  at  her.  1  offer  her  a  dollar  for  the 
privilege,  but  she  refuses  scornfully.  Not  wishing 
to  own  myself  defeated,  1  appear  to  give  up  the 
attempt,  but  return  later  to  where  she  sits,  and  ac- 
complish my  end  by  strategy,  and  without  parting 
with  any  of  my  cash. 

There  is  a  supply  store  here:  the  A.  O.  &  G. 
Co.,  meaning  the  Alaska  Oil  and  Guano 
Company.  Travellers  who  wish  to  hunt  the 
wild  game  in  this  region  have  no  difficulty  in 
engaging  guides,  and  chartering  launches  or 
canoes.  The  tides  are  highest  during  the  months 
of  June  and  December,  at  which  times  they  rise 
to  a  height  of  twenty-two  feet.  The  winter 
gales  are  very  violent  on  these  shores,  and  the 
temperature  falls  to  ten  and  fifteen  degrees  below 
zero. 

There  is  no  physician  in  the  settlement.  I  ask  a 
resident  what  is  done  in  cases  of  illness,  and  he 
laughingly  replies:  "When  we  get  sick,  we  work 
it  off."  This  is  heroic  treatment.  He  further  tells 
me  of  a  settler  who  had  a  tooth  which  caused  him 
constant  pain.  Having  made  several  ineffectual  at- 
tempts to   draw   it,   he  was   compelled   to  go  to 


26o  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

Juneau  to  have  it  extracted:  which  necessitated  a 
month's  absence  from  home. 

I  cannot  decide  which  is  greater — my  anxiety  to 
arrive  at  Killisnoo,  or  my  delight  at  leaving  the 
village.  One  loathes  so  the  dirt  and  disorder  of  the 
Indians!  A  good  meal,  served  in  an  orderly  manner 
with  attractive  surroundings,  adds  much  to  the 
comfort  and  enjoyment  of  the  man  of  modern 
tastes. 


The    Capital    of   Alaska 


CHAPTER  IX 

The  Capital  of  Alaska 

Peril  Strait — The  Path  of  the  Steamer — A  Deep  Cavern — The 
"  Columbine  " — A  Dangerous  Channel — Old  Sitka — The 
Capital — The  Stars  and  Stripes — Population — Lincoln  Street 
— Russian  Church  of  St.  Michael — Interior — Indian  River 
Park — Alaskan  Herald — Mount  Verstovoi — Museum — Mount 
St.  Elias — Ruins  of  the  Castle — Excursions — The  Return 
Voyage — Familiar  Scenes — Rodman's  Bay — Halibut  Fishing 
— White  Headed  Eagles — A  Fine  Prize — Settlements — 
Missionaries — Rainy  Days — End  of  the  Alaskan  Trip — A 
Double  Illumination — Farewell  to  the  Arctic  Regions. 

E  left  Killisnoo  about  noon,  and  are  now 
on  our  way  to  Sitka,  the  capital  of 
Alaska.  As  we  enter  Peril  Strait,  1 
wonder  if  this  body  of  water  is  more 
dangerous  than  many  others  through  which  we 
have  passed  safely  on  this  inland  voyage.  It  is 
well  known  that  the  entire  route  is  more  or  less 
hazardous  to  the  navigator,  in  consequence  of  the 
great  number  of  hidden  rocks.  I  soon  perceive, 
however,  that  like  Seymour  Narrows,  this  passage 
is  to  be  attempted  only  when  the  tide  is  full  or 
nearly  so,  and  in  favorable  weather.     The  water 

263 


264  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

rushes  in  torrents  over  and  between  rocky  ledges, 
at  the  rate  of  six  to  eight  knots  an  hour,  and  its 
speed  is  so  great  at  certain  points,  that  they  are 
known  as  the  Upper  and  Lower  Rapids.  The 
steamer's  path  lies  along  narrow  passages,  some- 
times scarcely  four  hundred  feet  wide.  The  nu- 
merous islands,  large  and  small,  by  which  we  are 
surrounded,  are  very  beautiful  with  their  stately 
forests,  rich  verdure,  and  indented  shores.  Here  a 
deep  cavern  extends  into  the  base  of  the  mountain, 
and  at  its  mouth  is  an  isolated  log  cabin.  No  other 
signs  of  human  life  are  visible.  Solitary  it  stands 
amid  the  haunts  of  the  wild  creatures,  in  the  very 
entrance  to  Nature's  secret  and  subterranean  mys- 
teries. 

Suddenly  the  deep  whistle  of  the  engine  sounds 
upon  the  air,  and  crut  of  the  distance  a  shrill  treble 
note  is  heard  in  response.  We  all  hasten  to  the 
side  of  the  steamer,  and  soon  find  ourselves  in  the 
wake  of  a  revenue  cutter,  the  "Columbine." 

As  we  approach  this  vessel,  greetings  are  ex- 
changed by  a  series  of  whistles  from  both  ships, 
and  a  waving  of  handkerchiefs  and  cheers  from 
those  on  board.  The  "Columbine"  is  a  govern- 
ment boat,  bearing  the  officers  and  men  who  are 
locating   rocks,  widening  the  channels  at  difficult 


Kii.i.isNoo  Uelle 


Sec  page-  25y 


The  Capital  of  Alaska  267 

points,  and  otherwise  increasing  the  safety  of  navi- 
gation in  these  waters.  As  the  distance  again 
widens  between  us,  we  return  to  our  favorite  posts 
of  observation.  The  fresh  verdure  growing  so 
close  to  the  water  is  a  constant  source  of  wonder. 
We  are  told  that  the  frequent  rains  in  this  region 
counteract  the  efifect  of  the  salt  waters  of  the  strait. 
Flocks  of  ducks  and  other  wild  fowls  rise  suddenly 
from  the  water  and  fly  away  before  us,  flapping 
their  wings  and  uttering  loud  cries. 

This  strait  is  forty  miles  in  length,  and  curves  in 
a  great  bow  as  it  sweeps  along  from  Chatham 
Strait  to  Salisbury  Sound.  The  name  given  to  it  by 
the  natives  is  Koo-le-tchika,  or  a  dangerous  chan- 
nel. Portions  of  the  strait  are  swept  by  strong 
tidal  currents,  and  beyond  the  Lower  Rapids,  where 
the  channel  is  scarcely  a  hundred  yards  in  width, 
the  tide  rushes  in  with  the  strength  and  swiftness 
of  a  cataract.  As  the  steamer  goes  through  at  high 
water  slack,  few  of  the  passengers  are  aware  of 
the  sunken  rocks  and  hidden  maelstroms  which 
render  this  part  of  the  passage  so  dangerous;  and 
all  are  as  careless  and  merry  at  the  points  requiring 
the  utmost  caution  of  captain  and  officers,  as 
though  sitting  safely  in  their  drawing-rooms  at 
home. 


268  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

Before  reaching  the  capital  city,,  we  pass  a  point 
of  land,  on  which  two  houses  and  a  large  cross  are 
visible.  This  is  Old  Sitka,  the  site  of  Baranoff's 
first  settlement  in  1799,  which  was  destroyed  by 
the  natives  in  1802.  The  present  town  of  Sitka 
became  the  capital  of  Russian  America  under  the 
administration  of  Governor  Alexander  BaranofF,  the 
former  capital  having  been  Kodiak,  on  an  island  of 
the  same  name,  five  hundred  miles  west. 

We  land  at  Sitka  at  about  four  oclock  in  the  after- 
noon. The  town  is  built  on  level  ground  at  the 
mouth  of  Indian  River,  on  the  western  coast  of 
Baranoff  Island.  At  its  back  rises  Mount  Verstovoi, 
3,216  feet  in  height.  The  United  States  formally 
took  possession  of  Alaska  October  18,  1867,  when 
the  Union  Men  of  War  entered  the  harbor  of  Sitka, 
and  the  stars  and  stripes  took  the  place  of  the 
Moscovite  flag  on  the  government  castle. 

The  city  has  a  population  of  probably  five  hun- 
dred whites  and  nine  hundred  natives  and  China- 
men. We  are  surprised  to  see  so  many  people  on 
the  wharf  on  our  arrival.  They  are  friends  of  pas- 
sengers, who  have  assembled  to  welcome  the 
travellers  to  these  arctic  shores.  .'Mong  the  side  of 
the  landing  is  a  line  of  Indian  women,  picturesque 
in  effect,  but  ugly  and  unattractive  as  we  approach 


The  Capital  of  Alaska  269 

them.  They  call  out  to  us  some  words  in  their 
native  tongue,  which  we  do  not  understand,  but 
which  we  know  by  their  gestures  are  entreaties  to 
purchase  their  wares,  consisting  of  the  usual  variety 
of  curios  found  by  the  collectors  of  these  articles  at 
most  of  the  ports  here.  We  wander  up  Lincoln 
Street,  the  principal  thoroughfare  of  the  town,  and 
behold  many  of  the  natives,  who,  though  unkempt 
and  repulsive,  present  a  certain  artistic  fitness  for 
their  surroundings. 

More  curios  are  here  offered  for  sale,  and  as 
eagerly  as  before  purchased  by  many  of  our  ship's 
company,  who  thus  add  materially  to  the  stores  of 
wealth  in  the  deep  pockets  of  the  squaws.  The 
latter  smile  and  grunt  their  approval  of  the  gener- 
osity of  their  white  visitors,  but  as  usual,  baffle  all 
endeavors  to  take  their  photographs.  Their  eyes  are 
keen  to  note  every  move  in  that  direction,  and  the 
appearance  of  the  camera  is  the  signal  for  the  faces 
of  one  and  all  to  disappear  beneath  their  heavy 
woolen  shawls.  They  then  peep  out  shyly  and  cau- 
tiously until  all  danger  is  past. 

The  hotel  is  an  uninviting  looking  building  on 
our  left;  at  the  head  of  Lincoln  Street  is  the  Rus- 
sian Orthodox  Church  of  St.  Michael,  with  its  blue 
dome  and  chime  of  bells.     It  occupies  a  quadrangle 


270  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

midway  in  the  street.  Rich  stores  of  plate,  pic- 
tures, vestments  and  altar  furnishings  have  been 
sent  to  this  church  from  Russia  as  it  was  under  the 
protection  of  the  imperial  family.  All  of  its  hand- 
some appointments,  as  well  as  the  chime  of  six 
bells  in  the  cupola,  have  come  hither  from  Moscow. 

Upon  payment  of  the  customary  small  fee  "for 
the  support  of  the  church,"  we  enter  this  imposing 
building.  Its  interior  is  furnished  in  white  and 
gold,  and  here  we  find  striking  effects  in  the  gor- 
geous adornment  of  the  altar,  and  fine  paintings  of 
the  Madonna  and  other  scriptural  subjects,  hand- 
somely set  in  richly  jeweled  frames.  The  bronze 
doors,  separating  the  body  of  the  church  from  the 
inner  sanctuary  present  portraits  of  saints  in  beaten 
silver,  with  jeweled  halos  and  helmets.  Massive 
candlesticks  stand  on  either  side  of  these  doors,  and 
in  the  church  treasury  are  valuable  crowns,  crosses, 
caskets  and  reliquaries.  There  are  no  seats,  the 
congregation  either  standing  or  kneeling  during  the 
entire  service.  Many  of  the  natives  belong  to  this 
church,  whose  ceremonies  are  of  an  interesting 
character. 

The  Indian  River  Park  is  about  two  miles  from 
Sitka,  and  thither  we  now  betake  ourselves.  On 
our  way  we  pass  a  dilapidated    two  story  frame 


The  Capital  of  Alaska  271 

building,  which  would  doubtless  remain  unnoticed 
by  the  tourist  were  it  not  that  above  its  doorway  is 
a  sign  which  reads :  Alaskan  Herald.  I  stop,  think- 
ing I  will  enter  and  have  a  little  chat  with  the  edi- 
tor; but,  alas!  the  door  is  locked,  and  I  am  forced 
to  go  my  way  without  this  means  of  gaining  in- 
formation. It  is  said  that  a  good  imitation  is  the 
highest  form  of  compliment.  If  this  be  true,  then 
the  newspaper  of  this  place  is  perfectly  innocent  of 
complimenting  any  of  its  namesakes.  It  fails 
utterly  in  resemblance  to  the  spicy  journals  of  Ben- 
nett City,  and  if  it  ever  had  the  faintest  idea  of 
claiming  relationship  with  its  celebrated  ancestor 
in  New  York  City,  1  fear  it  would  find  a  shoul- 
der turned  towards  it,  even  colder  than  those 
of  the  icy  monarchs  of  these  northern  latitudes. 
Yet  the  Alaskan  is  the  oldest  paper  in  the  terri- 
tory, and  is  read  as  a  source  of  information  re- 
garding this  region  by  people  in  other  parts  of  the 
country. 

We  find  the  park  a  delightful  pleasure-ground, 
with  stately  trees,  luxuriant  thickets,  fine  plants  and 
a  great  variety  of  ferns  and  mosses.  Picturesque 
paths  lead  one  to  its  most  striking  points,  and  rus- 
tic seats  offer  rest  and  lovely  views  to  the  weary 
visitor.     The  main  path  leads  from  the  falls  of  the 


272  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

river  to  the  beach,  and  many  fairy  bridges  span  the 
stream  at  different  points. 

The  lover  of  curios  is  tempted  to  spend  much  of 
his  valuable  time  in  the  museum  of  this  city,  which 
contains  one  of  the  largest  collections  in  the  coun- 
try of  the  relics  and  oddities  peculiar  to  this  people. 
But  our  time  is  limited,  and  we  prefer  the  outside 
world  with  all  its  new  and  wonderful  appearances, 
to  all  the  relics  in  existence.  From  Mount  Verstovoi 
at  the  back  of  the  town  one  may  obtain  a  fine  view 
of  the  country  stretching  out  to  the  west.  Afar  off 
on  the  Pacific  coast  appears  the  icy  peak  of  Mount 
St.  Elias,  18,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea — one 
of  the  familiar  landmarks  of  this  arctic  region;  and 
still  farther  are  the  fiery  craters  of  the  Aleutian 
Islands.  Beyond  these  all  is  vague  and  misty,  but 
the  unknown  and  distant  lands  have  a  charm  that 
overpowers  the  visible,  and  we  linger  under  their 
spell,  conjecturing,  dreaming,  till  some  more  prac- 
tical spirit  suggests  that  time  does  not  standstill,  al- 
though we  may. 

The  ruins  of  the  old  castle  are  interesting  to  the 
tourist,  in  consequence  of  the  romantic  stories  asso- 
ciated with  the  place.  This  was  once  an  imposing 
structure,  built  of  logs,  and  situated  on  a  rocky 
point  commanding  a  magnificent  view  of  the  ocean 


The  Capital  of  Alaska  273 

and  the  picturesque  harbor  dotted  with  lovely  ever- 
green islands.  This  massive  building  was  the  scene 
of  much  social  gayety  in  the  days  of  the  Russians, 
and  the  noble  women  who  dwelt  within  its  walls, 
proved  each  in  turn  a  Lady  Bountiful  to  the  women 
and  children  of  the  colony.  The  glass  cupola  above 
the  third  story  was  formerly  the  lighthouse  of  the 
harbor,  its  lamp  standing  over  one  hundred  feet 
above  the  sea.  It  was  handsomely  furnished  when 
the  city  was  delivered  to  our  military  commandant 
in  1867,  but  after  the  departure  of  the  troops,  the 
building  was  defaced  and  robbed  of  all  its  luxurious 
appointments.  Some  years  ago  the  government  of 
the  United  States  expended  many  thousands  of 
dollars  in  the  work  of  repairs  and  restoration,  but  in 
1894,  soon  after  the  completion  of  these  operations, 
fire  broke  out  in  the  castle,  and  it  was  burned  to  the 
ground. 

The  capital  of  Alaska  is  rich  in  historical  associa- 
tions, but  contains  little  to  interest  the  traveller  be- 
yond the  points  just  enumerated.  It  is  true  we 
could  have  many  delightful  excursions  to  the  neigh- 
boring mountains  and  among  the  lovely  islands,  but 
for  these  we  have  not  time. 

The  Sitkans,  it  is  said,  are  of  mixed  stock,  being 
the  outcasts,  renegades   and  wanderers  of    many 


2/4  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

tribes.  The  word  Sitka,  says  our  guide-book,  is 
freely  translated  as  "  the  people  living  at  the  base  of 
the  mountain."  They  have  adopted  many  of  the 
customs  of  the  white  people  around  them,  and  in 
the  Industrial  School,  supported  by  the  Presbyterian 
Missionary  Society,  their  children  are  taught  various 
trades.  The  men  are  fishermen,  loggers  and  boat- 
men, similar  in  their  habits  to  the  average  white 
backwoodsman.  They  still  have  their  canoes,  but 
their  lodges  or  "communal"  dwellings  have  disap- 
peared from  this  region,  and  their  houses  are  num- 
bered for  record  and  sanitary  inspection. 

We  steam  away  from  this  beautiful  harbor  at 
break  of  day,  with  our  course  now  towards  Juneau. 
From  this  time  forward,  our  voyage  will  prove  a 
repetition  of  what  we  have  already  experienced; 
but  it  is  a  prospect  which  we  enjoy  to  the  utter- 
most. Although  the  route  is  not  new  to  us,  we 
still  find  in  it  a  succession  of  delightful  surprises. 
Again  we  thread  these  labyrinthian  sounds  and 
straits,  as  they  take  their  winding  course  between 
lofty  mountain  walls,  or  past  the  shores  of  fairy 
islands  clothed  in  richest  verdure.  Again  we  look 
down  into  these  shining  depths  and  follow  the 
magnificent  panorama  as  it  glides  over  the  mirror- 
like  surface.     The  snow  capped   mountains  wel- 


The  Capital  of  Alaska  275 

come  us  back,  the  glaciers,  those  great  icy  rivers 
which  the  long  ages  have  watched  slowly  working 
their  way  towards  the  sea,  they  too,  as  all  the  rest, 
are  our  friends  whom  we  rejoice  to  see  once  more, 
and  whom  we  will  never  forget.  We  pay  our 
tribute  of  praise  to  the  sparkling  waterfalls,  and 
greet  them  with  a  familiarity  born  of  past  asso- 
ciations. The  dancing  cascades,  with  their  rainbow 
hues  and  misty  veils  charm  us  as  before,  as  do  also 
the  rich  harmonies  of  the  mountain  slopes.  To  each 
and  all  we  can  truly  say: 

"  I  owe  thee  much !     Thou  hast  deserved  of  me 
Far,  far  beyond  what  I  can  ever  pay." 

Stopping  at  Rodman's  Bay  for  freight,  we  are 
requested  to  have  our  lines  ready  for  some  good 
halibut  fishing.  Fish  weighing  from  one  hundred 
to  five  hundred  pounds  have  been  caught  in  these 
waters,  and  of  a  quality  almost  unequaled  for  table 
use. 

It  is  needless  to  say  that  we  are  filled  with 
excitement  at  the  prospect  before  us.  The  steward 
is  called  hither  and  thither,  and  is  hard  pressed  by 
the  demands  for  hooks,  line  and  bait.  I  frankly 
confess  my  complete  ignorance  of  the  proceedings, 
as  I  behold  him  unroll  what  appears  to  be  a  clothes- 
line, and  fasten  to  its  end  a  hook  fully  eight  inches 


276  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

long.  It  is  difficult  to  realize  that  such  a  length  is 
necessary.  The  ladies  too,  share  in  the  excitement, 
and  enter  into  the  sport  as  partners.  We  are  a 
very  enthusiastic  party;  and  yet  are  not  without 
our  anxieties. 

As  the  preparations  go  forward,  I  stand  on  deck 
and  watch  the  many  white  headed  eagles  that  float 
through  the  air  above  us,  and  a  passenger  at  my 
side,  chimes  in  with  my  thoughts  with  a  remark  on 
the  flying  machine,  whose  mechanism  he  has  made 
the  subject  of  much  study.  He  has  great  faith  in 
the  future  success  of  this  invention,  and  I  do  not 
disagree  with  him,  for  I,  too,  think  there  are  great 
possibilities  in  that  line;  and  then,  what  wondrous 
opportunities  man  will  have  for  viewing  the  wild 
and  majestic  beauties  of  nature  now  utterly  beyond 
approach  by  railroad  or  steamer! 

Upon  a  lofty  branch  sit  two  eagles,  apparently 
unconcerned  as  to  what  is  going  on  in  the  world 
around  them.  They  seem  interested  only  in  each 
other.  As  I  note  their  noble  forms,  an  officer  com- 
ments upon  the  faithfulness  of  these  birds,  saying 
at  the  same  time,  that  it  is  a  known  fact  that  the 
eagle  never  has  more  than  one  mate,  to  whom  he  is 
constant  during  life,  and  even  after  her  death. 

We  have  dropped  anchor  opposite  a  small  settle- 


< 


The  Capital  of  Alaska  279 

merit,  and  have  landed  freight  and  two  passengers 
on  this  isolated  spot.  Now  it  is  interesting  to 
observe  the  attitudes  of  our  amateur  fishermen. 
What  haste  each  one  is  in  to  drop  his  clothes-line, 
with  the  great  dipsey  and  hook  attached!  Large 
fishes  are  dangling  on  the  hooks  as  bait.  Before 
long  mighty  tugs  are  felt  at  some  of  the  lines,  and 
a  great  commotion  ensues.  We  all  shout  and  rush 
to  the  side  of  the  lucky  angler.  Then  comes  the 
tug  of  war.  in  this  case  it  is  a  lady,  who  calls  for 
assistance  in  holding  her  prize.  This  is  quickly 
offered  by  the  gentleman  beside  her,  and  hand  over 
hand,  they  haul  away.  Gradually  the  resisting  fish 
is  drawn  nearer, — nearer, — at  last  he  is  in  sight — a 
great  halibut,  weighing  at  least  a  hundred  pounds. 
The  excitement  is  boundless,  and  now  the  steamer's 
boat  and  three  of  the  sailors  come  into  the  play, 
and  the  fish  is  adroitly  landed.  For  several  days 
after  this  we  are  treated  to  fresh  halibut  served  in 
various  appetizing  ways. 

We  make  frequent  stops  at  little  towns  and 
villages  on  our  way  back  to  Seattle,  and  our  voyage 
is  never  lacking  in  interest  or  adventure.  The  tiny 
settlement  of  perhaps  a  half  a  score  of  cabins  and 
some  small  houses,  nestling  at  the  foot  of  a  lofty 
mountain,    is    no    uncommon   sight.     Lonely  and 


28o  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

isolated  as  they  are,  these  villages  are  rich  in 
natural  resources,  and  the  diminutive  gardens  yield 
the  little  variety  which  these  frugal  minds  desire  from 
the  abundant  gifts  of  salmon  and  halibut  bestowed 
upon  them  by  the  sea.  Here  too  the  presence  of  a 
picturesque  chapel  gives  evidence  of  the  labors  of 
the  missionary  among  the  settlers.  I  often  think  of 
the  strength  of  character  and  unselfish  lives  of  such 
men — how  they  give  up  home,  comfort,  ambition, 
friends,  to  devote  themselves  to  the  salvation  of  the 
human  beings  in  earth's  remote  regions. 

A  succession  of  rainy  days  confines  many  of  the 
passengers  to  the  saloons  and  staterooms.  Having 
seen  these  views,  they  prefer  to  rest  and  be  com- 
fortable. I  cannot  stay  within,  for  1  never  weary  of 
this  wonderful  series  of  magnificent  scenes.  The 
noble  mountains,  seen  through  mist  and  rain, 
appear  still  grand  and  majestic,  and  if  perchance 
the  sun  peeps  out  for  an  instant,  he  flings  over 
them  such  glorious  lights,  that  it  seems  as  though 
one  has  not  until  now,  really  seen  them  in  all  their 
beauty,  as  so  lofty,  stately  and  sublime,  they  radiant 
stand,  nor  feel  the  touch  of  time. 

"  When  nature  ceases,  thou  shalt  still  remain, 
Nor  second  chaos  bound  thy  endless  reign ; 
Fate's  tyrant  laws  thy  happier  lot  shall  brave. 
Baffle  destruction,  and  elude  the  grave." 


The  Capital  of  Alaska  281 

The  days  move  steadily  forward  amid  the  uniform 
life  of  a  ship's  company,  and  now  we  have  come  to 
the  last  night  v/e  shall  pass  on  board  the  steamer 
"Queen,"  for  to-morrow  at  nine  o'clock  we  will 
land  at  Seattle.  In  closing  the  final  chapter  of  our 
Alaskan  voyage,  it  is  noteworthy  that  in  this  hour 
so  closely  approaching  twilight,  the  glories  of  both 
sun  and  moon  should  appear  in  the  heavens  simul- 
taneously, as  though  Nature  is  doing  her  utmost  to 
delight  us  in  the  last  hours  of  one  of  life's  happiest 
experiences.  Silently  we  gaze  upon  the  scene — on 
this  side,  the  radiant  queen  of  night,  serene,  ma- 
jestic, with  her  silvery  reflections  dancing  in  each 
ripple  of  the  waves,  on  the  other,  the  descending 
day  god,  golden,  resplendent,  filling  the  landscape 
with  a  crimson  glow.  The  mountains  are  partly  in 
deep  purple  shadow,  partly  in  glittering  light;  and 
rainbow  hues  gleam  where  the  sparkling  cascades 
cast  down  their  foam.  The  clouds  are  divided  in 
their  allegiance,  but  the  night  queen  gradually  wins 
them  over,  and  their  crimson  and  gold  fade  softly 
into  pearly  tints  and  rosy  violet.  It  is  one  of  the 
most  exquisite  sights  it  has  been  my  lot  to  witness. 

It  is  difficult  to  say  good-bye  to  this  majestic 
scene,  for  a  perfect  night  like  this  can  never  be  re- 
peated.    This    magnificent    wonderland    of    noble 


282  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

summits  and  arctic  splendor  cannot,  it  seems,  again 
fill  our  souls  with  the  same  delight,  for  though  in 
the  years  to  come,  we  should  take  this  journey 
again,  and  rejoice  once  more  in  these  changeless 
mountains  and  eternal  glaciers,  the  pleasure  would 
be  different,  because  we,  ourselves,  would  be 
changed,  for  it  is  impossible  for  the  human  soul  to 
stand  still.  So  it  is  a  long  farewell  to  the  land  of 
ice  and  snow,  of  mysterious  gorges  and  ravines;  of 
crystal  labyrinthian  waterways  and  fairy  islands; 
of  lofty  summits  and  gigantic  glaciers;  of  foamy 
waterfalls  and  dancing  cascades.  May  your  charm- 
ing recesses,  your  hoary  giants  and  your  veiled 
princesses  remain  forever  undisturbed  by  the  spirit 
of  progress,  and  man's  insatiable  desire  for  your 
subterranean  treasures. 


The  Yellowstone  Park 


CHAPTER  X 
The  Yelloivstone  Park 

Seattle — A  Busy  City — Portland— Beautiful  \^ie\vs — En  Route  for 
the  Yellowstone — By  Moonlight — Trestles — Driving  Cattle — 
Cinnabar  Station — Extent  of  the  Park — Regulations — An 
Abundance  of  Flowers — Fishing — Origin  of  the  Name — 
Marvellous  Coloring — Park  Coaches — A  Dusty  Road — Elec- 
tric Peak — Gardiner  Canon — A  Supply  Station — Northern 
Boundary  Line  —  Campers  —  Linen  Dusters  —  Eagle  Nest 
Rock — Mammoth  Hot  Springs — Terraces  and  Springs — Lib- 
erty Cap — Devil's  Thumb — McCartney's  Cabin — Early  Ex- 
plorers— Jupiter  Terrace — Calcareous  Deposits — Temperature 
of  the  Springs — Sepulchre  Mountain — Mount  Everts — Angel 
Terrace — Many  Beautiful  Formations — White  Elephant — 
Devil's  Kitchen — An  Uncanny  Cooking  Place — Orange  Ter- 
race— Bath  Lake — Transformation — Dangerous  Paths — Hotel 
System,  and  Transportation  Company. 

E  decide  to  remain  a  day  or  two  in  the 
"  Queen  City  of  the  Northwest,"  which 
offers  such  an  unlimited  round  of  pleas- 
ures to  the  tourist.  The  speed  with 
which  both  cable  and  electric  cars  run,  gives  one 
some  idea  of  the  busy  life  of  this  place. 

Seattle  has,  as  perhaps  I  have  already  said,  beauti- 
ful natural  parks  and  lakeside  resorts.     Here  too, 

285 


286  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

we  rejoice  in  such  picturesque  views  as  the  distant 
lofty  summit  of  Mount  Rainier,  bathed  in  the  even- 
ing light,  with  a  luminous  sky  above  it. 

The  people  are  agreeable,  and  although  there  is 
much  to  tempt  us,  we  take  things  easily,  and  re- 
ceive much  benefit  from  this  period  of  rest  as  well 
as  pleasure.  It  is  interesting  sometimes  to  stand 
outside  the  actual  life  of  an  enterprising  people,  and 
observe  the  current  of  their  activities,  their  aims  and 
ambitions.  This  is  a  commercial  city  which  has 
made  a  name  for  itself  in  the  business  world.  Its 
natural  resources  are  great,  and  it  is  the  depot  of  a 
vast  lumber  industry,  as  well  as  a  large  and  valuable 
coal  business. 

We  go  by  train  from  Seattle  to  Portland,  which  is 
a  charming  city.  Delightful  music  from  the  hotel 
band  greets  us  as  we  enter  its  pleasant  grounds. 
Here  are  lovely  paths,  flow^ers  and  shrubbery,  shaded 
porches  with  comfortable  chairs,  and  an  atmosphere 
both  restful  and  refreshing.  The  strains  of  music 
seem  to  have  a  magnetic  character,  for  an  assembly 
of  about  three  hundred  ladies  and  gentlemen  have 
gathered  on  the  sidewalk  to  listen  to  them.  Our 
stay  here  proves  most  delightful.  We  meet  pleas- 
ant acquaintances,  the  streets  are  attractive,  and 
everywhere  there  is  a  charm  which  tempts  one  to 


The  Yellowstone  Park  289 

linger.  It  is  one  of  the  few  places  to  which  the 
tourist  can  suggest  no  improvement.  An  ideal  city. 
The  cars  carry  you  to  picturesque  suburbs,  where 
beautiful  homes  are  approached  through  stately 
avenues,  or  over  velvety  lawns;  and  dainty  cottages 
seem  to  invite  one  to  rest  upon  the  porches  beneath 
their  clustering  vines. 

Here  is  an  electric  plant  whose  force  is  carried 
more  than  fifteen  miles  from  the  Willamette  Falls. 
Here  are  farm  lands  so  rich  as  to  require  no  fertil- 
izer— fisheries,  in  whose  vast  nets  two  and  three  tons 
of  salmon  are  captured  in  one  haul. 

We  drive  to  the  highest  point  in  the  city,  and  have 
magnificent  views  of  Mount  Rainier,  Mt.  St.  Helens, 
Mt.  Adams  and  Mt.  Hood.  The  afternoon  being 
clear,  we  have  a  fine  prospect  of  the  surrounding 
country,  and  of  the  city  itself,  which  in  its  fresh 
cleanliness,  is  a  practical  illustration  of  Burke's  as- 
sertion that  "Good  order  is  the  foundation  of  all 
good  things." 

The  peaceful  enjoyment  of  our  visit  to  this  city 
has  prepared  us  to  take  up  again  the  arduous  pleas- 
ure of  sightseeing, — and  now  we  leave  Portland 
•via  Northern  Pacific  Railway,  for  the  Yellowstone 
Park.  There  is  a  fine  observation  car  attached  to 
our  train  which  is  fitted  with  every  comfort   and 


290  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

convenience  the  most  fastidious  traveller  could  de- 
sire. Here  are  easy  chairs,  a  library,  bathrooms, 
barber  shops,  and  a  spacious,  well  protected  open 
platform  in  the  rear  of  the  car.  Upon  this  1  stand 
before  retiring  for  the  night,  and  look  abroad  upon 
a  scene  of  wild  and  picturesque  beauty — the  moon 
with  her  silvery  reflections — the  distant  mountains, 
black  as  ink — and  adown  our  tracks,  the  long  line 
of  signal  lights,  bidding  us  come  on  with  confi- 
dence, assured  that  there  is  no  danger  ahead. 
Safely  we  speed  through  the  night  at  the  rate  of 
fifty  miles  an  hour.  Now  we  cut  through  the  Cas- 
cade Mountains,  passing  through  several  short  tun- 
nels, then  a  very  long  one — the  longest  on  the 
Northern  Pacific  Road,  measuring  9,500  feet. 

How  dry  and  dusty  everything  appears.  Many 
workmen  are  busy  at  this  point,  and  they  are 
of  all  nationalities — American,  Irish,  Japanese,  and 
Chinese.  We  have  reached  an  altitude  of  2,000 
feet.  Some  small  mountain  ranges  may  be  seen  in 
the  distance.  Now  we  are  flying  over  a  trestle 
bridge  (the  Mordant),  two  hundred  and  twenty-six 
feet  high,  without  lessening  our  speed — now  an- 
other (the  O'Keefe),  one  hundred  and  twelve  feet 
high.  From  my  window  I  perceived  a  herd  of 
cattle,  driven  by  two  men — one  is  a  Mexican  who 


The  Yellowstone  Park  19 1 

sits  upon  a  bronco,  the  other  carelessly  holds  his 
place  upon  a  bicycle,  turning  in  and  out  of  the  road 
at  will,  and  keeping  his  share  of  the  cattle  in  order. 

At  Hope  Station  we  lose  an  hour,  the  difference 
between  Pacific  and  Mountain  time,  and  now  there 
is  a  difference  of  two  hours  between  this  and  east- 
ern time.  Without  event  we  reach  Cinnabar  Sta- 
tion, after  a  charming  journey  in  the  sumptuous 
drawing-room  coach.  Our  train  is  the  North  Coast 
Limited,  the  finest  on  the  Northern  Pacific  Railway. 
Its  western  terminus  is  Portland,  its  eastern,  St. 
Paul. 

In  describing  our  visit  to  the  Yellowstone,  I  shall, 
as  far  as  possible,  omit  all  statistics  and  scientific 
explanations,  giving  simply  the  impressions  of  a 
tourist  who  makes  the  trip  for  the  purpose  of  en- 
joying the  beauties  of  nature.  A  brief  statement 
regarding  its  size,  position,  etc.,  will  not,  however, 
be  out  of  place  here.  In  1872,  the  Congress  of  the 
United  States  passed  the  act,  which  set  aside  for- 
ever as  a  public  park,  the  section  of  the  country 
known  as  the  Yellowstone  National  Park.  This 
territory  is  rectangular  in  shape,  sixty-two  miles 
from  north  to  south,  and  fifty-four  miles  wide, 
having  an  area  of  5,412  square  miles.  A  later  act 
of  Congress   has   set  aside  as  a  limited  reserve,  a 


292  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

strip  of  land  on  the  south,  and  one  on  the  east  side 
of  the  park  proper.  This  National  Park  lies  in  the 
northwest  corner  of  Wyoming,  with  a  narrow 
strip  in  Montana  and  Idaho.  It  is  about  a  thousand 
miles  from  St.  Paul  and  Duluth,  to  the  east,  and 
Portland  to  the  west;  fifteen  hundred  miles  from 
Chicago,  and  about  the  same  distance  from  San 
Francisco.  It  is  open  from  June  fifteenth  to  Sep- 
tember fifteenth. 

Firearms  may  be  carried  through  the  Park,  to  be 
used  only  as  a  means  of  defense  against  wild 
animals.  Permission  to  carry  them  is  granted,  on 
application  to  the  United  States  guards.  A  few 
buffalos  are  to  be  found  here,  thousands  of  elk  and 
deer,  many  bears,  black,  brown  and  grizzly,  some 
antelopes,  a  few  coyotes  and  small  game.  The 
Park  is  under  the  control  of  the  government.  Its 
fort  which  is  called  Fort  Yellowstone,  is  at  Mam- 
moth Hot  Springs.  Soldiers  patrol  the  ground 
daily,  and  during  the  summer  season,  an  encamp- 
ment is  maintained  at  the  Lower  Geyser  Basin. 
Any  violation  of  the  superintendent's  rules  is  se- 
verely punished. 

An  abundance  of  flowers  beautifies  these  pleas- 
ure-grounds, and  he  who  seeks  the  more  secluded 
haunts  of  these  lovely  children  of  the  fields  and 


The  Yellowstone  Park  295 

groves  is  well  rewarded  for  his  pains,  for  he  will  be 
led  into  the  choice  spots  of  nature,  her  sweet  mys- 
terious hiding-places,  reserved  only  for  her  truest 
lovers,  and  most  devoted  worshippers.  Here  then 
the  columbine  will  greet  you,  and  the  aster;  lu- 
pines and  evening  primroses,  the  painted  cup  and 
the  bitter  root;  the  buttercup  and  the  forget-me- 
not;  but  why  enumerate  them  ?  They  are  all  there, 
and  only  he  who  loves  them  will  care  to  know 
about  them,  and  he  will  find  them  out  himself. 

The  fishing  is  exceptionally  good,  and  one  may 
pursue  this  form  of  amusement  to  his  heart's  con- 
tent, catching  by  fly  and  line  almost  every  variety 
of  brook  and  mountain  trout  and  whitefish.  But 
the  pleasures  of  the  Yellov/stone  can  hardly  be  set 
down  in  black  and  white;  they  are  so  many  and  so 
various.  He  who  comes  hither  brings  in  his  own 
breast  all  the  hidden  seeds,  from  which  spring  the 
delighted  appreciation  of  these  wonderful  works  of 
the  Creator. 

There  has  been  some  doubt  as  to  the  origin  of 
the  name  Yellowstone,  as  applied  to  this  region.  It 
has,  however,  been  ascribed  to  the  Indians  who 
dwelt  along  the  Yellowstone  and  Upper  Missouri 
rivers,  and  who  had  a  name  for  the  tributary 
stream,  signifying  yellow  rock.    The  French  traders 


296  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

and  trappers,  it  is  supposed,  adopted  its  signifi- 
cation, and  called  the  river,  Roche  Jaune,  and  Pierre 
Jaune.  This  name  would  probably  have  been 
adopted,  had  not  the  policy  of  the  United  States 
government  at  that  time,  having  recently  acquired 
the  state  of  Louisiana,  been  to  give  English  names 
to  the  more  prominent  geographical  features  of  the 
country.  The  name  first  appears  in  a  report  and 
map  of  the  western  country,  based  on  information 
derived  from  the  Indians,  sent  by  Lewis  and  Clark 
in  the  spring  of  1805  to  President  Jefferson.  Here, 
for  the  first  time  the  name  Yellowstone  is  applied 
to  the  principal  tributary  of  the  Missouri.  The 
Grand  Canon  of  the  Yellowstone  is  remarkable  for 
the  coloring  of  its  rocks,  in  which  yellow  is  so  con- 
spicuous that  it  cannot  fail  to  attract  attention. 
The  Indian  words  are:  Mi  tsi  a-da-zi,  (Rock  yellow 
River).  The  French  and  English  are  equivalent 
terms. 

At  Cinnabar  the  elevation  is  about  four  thousand 
feet.  Here  we  are  met  by  two  stage-coaches,  one 
drawn  by  six  white,  the  other  by  six  black  horses, 
well  groomed,  and  of  such  a  spirited  gait  as  to 
arouse  feelings  of  admiration  in  all  beholders.  The 
whip,  a  typical  westerner,  holds  the  reins  with  con- 
fidence and  pride.     His  greatest  pleasure  is  to  scare 


The  Yellowstone  Park  297 

you  a  little  bit  by  making  a  short  turn  around  a  pre- 
cipitous rocky  portion  of  the  road,  while  urging  his 
horses  to  their  utmost  speed.  The  coach  is  a  model 
of  the  old-fashioned  stages,  its  body  is  suspended 
on  great  strong  leather  bands  which  support  its 
sides  and  are  caught  up  at  either  end.  These  act  as 
springs,  and  never  was  coach  easier  than  these 
primitive  looking  wagons.  Dusters  are  now  put  on, 
and  after  the  hand-bags  are  stowed  away,  the  lines 
are  tightly  drawn,  the  long  whip  is  cracked  above 
the  ears  of  the  leaders,  and  we  are  off  for  the  Mam- 
moth Hot  Springs  Hotel,  about  seven  miles  distant, 
— the  first  station  in  our  journey  through  the  Park. 
A  mixture  of  feelings  assails  us  as  we  sit  aloft  on 
the  coach  beside  the  driver,  who  twirls  his  long 
lash;  and  at  every  crack  the  horses  start  forward 
with  redoubled  speed.  And  everything  rushes  by 
us  so  swiftly  as  scarcely  to  leave  an  impression  on 
the  bewildered  mind.  The  road  is  dusty — from  the 
weeks  of  dry  weather,  the  driver  explains.  I  won- 
der, with  a  shudder,  if  this  is  to  be  our  experience 
during  the  drives  through  the  Yellowstone. 

On  our  right  towers  Electric  Peak,  so  named,  we 
are  told,  on  account  of  some  peculiar  electric  phe- 
nomena observed  there.  This  is  the  highest  moun- 
tain   in  the  vicinity,   being   11,155  feet  above  the 


298  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

level  of  the  sea.  The  dust  continues  to  settle  in 
layers  upon  our  faces  and  clothing.  But  what  of 
that  ?  We  are  on  our  way  to  the  Yellowstone.  A 
turn  in  the  path  leads  us  into  the  Gardiner  Canon, 
and  we  now  make  a  gradual  ascent  of  1,000  feet 
above  Cinnabar  Station.  Ere  long  the  little  town  of 
Gardiner  appears.  This  is  a  supply  station  for  the 
mining  camps  in  the  neighborhood,  and  for  other 
camping  and  hunting  parties.  We  do  not  stop,  but 
whirl  by,  leaving  a  cloud  of  dust  for  a  greeting. 

We  have  crossed  the  northern  boundary  line  of 
the  park,  and  now  meet  many  wagons,  some  drav/n 
by  four  horses,  others  by  two.  The  occupants  of 
these  are  campers,  who  have  been  touring  the  Yel- 
lowstone, and  are  returning  to  civilization.  They 
certainly  look  as  if  water  has  not  been  included  in 
their  arrangements  for  camping  conveniences. 
These  passing  wagons  fill  the  air  with  dense  clouds 
of  dust  which  envelop  us  so  that  we  are  scarcely 
able  to  distinguish  each  other.  One  of  the  necessi- 
ties of  the  tourist  in  this  region  is  a  good  linen 
duster,  buttoning  well  up  at  the  neck,  and  reaching 
to  the  knees — also  a  pair  of  dark  goggles  to  protect 
the  eyes  from  the  dust  and  the  reflections  from  the 
white  limestone,  which  are  positively  injurious,  as 
well  as  unpleasant. 


The  Yellowstone  Park  299 

The  scenery  along  the  way  is  rather  picturesque. 
One  point  is  especially  noteworthy.  This  is  Eagle 
Nest  Rock,  whose  cliffs  rise  to  a  height  of  1,300  feet 
above  the  roadway,  and  upon  whose  lofty  peak  an 
eagle  has  opportunely  built  his  nest.  We  all  di- 
rect our  powerful  field-glasses  towards  this  point, 
hoping  to  see  the  nest  and  its  occupants,  but 
they  are  not  visible,  bfeing  probably  away  from 
home. 

In  less  than  two  hours  v;^e  reach  the  Mammoth 
Hot  Springs,  which  are  located  6,215  ^^^^  above  sea 
level.  In  a  short  time  we  have  selected  our  room, 
registered,  washed  off  our  dusty  faces,  and  are  ready 
for  luncheon. 

As  a  matter  of  course,  before  starting  for  the 
Yellowstone,  we  have  all  read  much  literature  de- 
scriptive of  the  natural  wonders  of  this  secluded  re- 
gion. Nevertheless  we  are  all  at  sea  as  to  what  is 
to  be  seen,  how  best  to  accomplish  the  seeing,  and 
where  to  begin.  Questions  on  these  and  innumer- 
able other  points  are  showered  upon  the  hotel  clerk, 
whose  smiling,  benignant  countenance  as  he  listens 
to  our  queries,  seems  to  promise  us  all  necessary  in- 
formation on  the  desired  lines.  And  his  face  does 
not  belie  him,  for  when  we  leave  him,  the  way 
seems  plain  before  us.     He  tells  us  that  there  are 


300  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

thirteen  separate  terraces  about  this  neighborhood, 
and  a  great  many  hot  springs.  The  hot  springs  are 
situated  on  the  slope  of  Terrace  iMountain,  whose 
wonderful  phenomena  cover  about  one  hundred  and 
seventy  acres  of  ground. 

We  have  but  a  few  steps  to  walk  along  a  graded 
path,  and  we  are  among  the  wonders  of  this  mar- 
vellous region.  Before  us  is  a  massive  cone  shaped 
formation,  fifty-two  feet  in  height  and  twenty  feet 
in  diameter.  This  cone  has  been  built  up  by  de- 
posits formed  by  the  overflow  of  the  spring,  now 
extinct,  through  the  orifice  in  the  top.  It  is  called 
Liberty  Cap,  and  a  smaller  cone,  not  far  distant  is 
called  The  Devil's  Thumb.  The  reason  for  this  last 
name  I  cannot  guess,  unless  it  is  because  he  has  the 
red  hot  place  "under  his  thumb."' 

Not  far  from  the  Liberty  Cap  is  a  small  log  cabin, 
neither  picturesque  nor  comfortable  looking,  but  in- 
teresting, as  the  first  house  built  within  the  bound- 
aries of  the  park.  It  was  built  by  one,  McCartney, 
thirty-two  years  ago.  There  are  numerous  stories 
connected  with  him  and  with  the  early  explorers  of 
this  section  of  the  country,  but  they  would  fill  a 
volume. 

The  largest  of  the  group  of  terraces,  called  Jupiter, 
next  claims  our  attention.     It  is  difficult  to  describe 


The  Yellowstone  Park  301 

these  phenomena.  Wherever  the  deposits  of  the 
hot  springs  are  of  a  calcareous  nature,  they  form 
themselves  into  terraces,  which  rise  one  above  the 
other,  with  overhanging  bowls  of  beautiful  form  and 
color.  These  shapes  appear  like  crystallized  foam, 
and  the  fantastic  appearances  here  are  wonderful 
indeed.  The  Jupiter  Terrace  is  like  a  dream  of 
brilliant  beauty  and  grace. 

The  water  pouring  from  its  crevices  is  hot  enough 
to  boil  an  egg.  This  terrace  is  fed  by  two  large 
springs  of  boiling  water,  a  hundred  feet  in  diameter. 
It  has  been  stated  that  the  temperature  of  these 
boiling  springs  is  240  degrees.  The  water  is  com- 
posed of  lime,  iron,  magnesium  soda  and  sulphur. 
From  this  height  of  about  a  hundred  feet,  we  have 
a  fine  view  of  Gardiner  Cafion,  with  its  gray  walls 
and  sharp  pinnacles.  In  the  background  rises 
Sepulchre  Mountain,  and  on  the  east  we  can  dis- 
tinctly see  the  broad  table-land  of  Mount  Everts, 
7,900  feet  above  the  sea.  This  mountain,  which  is 
not  really  a  mountain,  but  a  broad  plateau,  was 
named  for  the  Hon.  Truman  C.  Everts,  member  of 
the  expedition  of  1870,  who  was  lost  in  the  forest 
wilderness  about  here,  and  endured  indescribable 
hardships  and  suffering  for  thirty-seven  days,  when 
he  was  found  in  a  state  of  exhaustion,  partially  de- 


302  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

ranged,  and  perishing  with  cold,  on  the  edge  of  a 
plateau  near  the  mouth  of  the  Gardiner  River.  It  is 
said,  however,  that  not  this  mountain,  but  Mount 
Sheridan  was  the  scene  of  these  events,  and  that 
the  Washington  party  had  already  named  this 
mountain  for  Everts,  before  he  was  lost,  as  he  and  a 
companion  were  the  first  white  men  to  visit  its 
summit.  Facing  us  is  the  noble  summit  of  Bunsen 
Peak,  9,100  feet  in  height.  The  scene  is  one  of  the 
utmost  grandeur  and  beauty.  Nature  has  lavished 
her  gifts  v^ith  a  prodigal  hand. 

Here  is  Angel  Terrace,  delicate  in  form  and  color, 
and  exquisitely  beautiful.  Its  snow-white  purity  is 
not  unfit  to  be  mentioned  in  the  same  breath  as  the 
dwellers  in  the  celestial  regions,  for  it  is  unsullied 
by  any  earthly  tints.  Now  follovv's  a  succession  of 
beautiful  formations — Hymen  Terrace,  Minerva 
Terrace,  a  graceful  series  of  basins,  forty  feet  in 
height,  and  covering  an  area  of  nearly  three-quarters 
of  an  acre — Pulpit,  White  Elephant,  Beauty  Springs, 
Marble  Terrace,  and  many  others. 

From  the  back  of  White  Elephant  Terrace  springs 
a  tiny  geyser,  throwing  its  small  fountain  about 
eighteen  inches  in  the  air.  I  think  at  first,  its  mis- 
sion is  to  cool  the  Elephant's  back,  but  v/hen  I  learn 
that  its  waters  are  boiling  hot,  I  change  my  opinion. 


The  Yellowstone  Park  305 

and  feel  that  the  little  geyser  is  to  the  Elephant  what 
the  vulture  was  to  Prometheus. 

It  is  but  a  step  farther  to  the  Devil's  Kitchen, 
which  is  the  crater  of  an  extinct  hot  spring.  By 
means  of  a  rude  ladder,  two  of  our  party  descend 
into  the  kitchen,  which  is  forty  feet  deep,  twenty 
feet  wide  at  the  base,  and  eighty  feet  long.  It  is 
said  that  the  bones  of  wild  animals  were  found  here 
when  the  crater  was  first  explored,  and  that  colonies 
of  bats  now  make  it  a  place  of  resort.  This  does 
not  add  to  one's  comfort  while  walking  about  in  the 
hot,  stuffy  atmosphere.  The  temperature  is  ninety- 
five  degrees.  We  do  not  linger  in  this  department  of 
Hades,  but  are  glad  to  escape  and  leave  the  Old  Boy 
to  work  out  his  culinary  operations  in  peace. 

The  Orange  Terrace  is  a  brilliantly  colored  mound, 
receiving  its  gorgeous  hues  from  the  iron  impregna- 
tions in  the  water  which  flows  over  it.  An  active 
little  geyser  at  its  summit  renders  it  especially  at- 
tractive. The  atmosphere  is  filled  with  sulphur 
which  pervades  the  whole  neighborhood  of  the  ter- 
races. 1  dip  my  finger  in  the  water  flowing  over 
the  edge  of  the  Mammoth  Hot  Springs,  and  find  it 
impossible  to  hold  it  there  more  than  two  or  three 
seconds. 

Bath  Lake  is  a  mysterious  body  of  water,  with  no 


3o6  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

visible  outlet.  It  has  a  diameter  of  fifty  feet,  and 
its  depth,  from  four  feet  on  one  side,  increases  to 
fourteen  feet  on  the  other.  Its  temperature  is  tepid 
on  the  shallow  side,  and  boiling  hot  where  the  cur- 
rent is  deepest,  and  is  the  same  at  all  seasons. 

Quite  close  to  the  lake  lives  a  Swedish  store- 
keeper, who  has  an  ingenious  method  of  placing 
various  articles,  such  as  knives,  spoons,  bottles,  vases 
and  shoes  under  the  water,  and  leaving  them  there 
over  night.  As  the  water  flows  over  them  it  leaves 
a  deposit  of  crystal,  composed  of  sulphur,  soda  and 
magnesium,  and  in  the  morning  these  articles  will 
be  as  white  as  snow.  This  man  has  also  gathered 
quantities  of  the  many  colored  stones  which  abound 
in  all  the  hues  of  the  rainbow,  in  the  Grand  Canon, 
and,  grinding  them  to  a  fine  powder,  has  moulded 
from  it  many  pretty  little  souvenirs. 

There  is  something  interesting  about  each  one  of 
the  many  terraces  which  adorn  this  locality.  This 
tract  of  land  is,  it  is  said,  a  very  ancient  hot  water 
deposit,  and  contains  innumerable  craters  and  fis- 
sures, some  of  which  lead  to  great  subterranean 
chambers  and  caverns,  but  it  is  impossible  to  explore 
them  on  account  of  the  gases  and  fumes  of  sulphur 
pervading  them. 

Let  me  caution  the   adventurous   visitor  against 


The  Yellowstone  Park  ^^7 

walking  carelessly  over  these  crusty  surfaces  without 
a  guide  or  equally  experienced  companion.  I  ven- 
tured upon  one  of  the  formations  by  evening  light, 
and  soon  found  myself  almost  knee  deep  in  the  thin 
and  brittle  mass,  and  for  a  few  moments  it  seemed 
that  I  must  sink  to  the  presence  chamber  of  his  Satanic 
Majesty,  fifty  feet  below.  However,  I  escaped 
without  accident. 

We  learn  that  the  entire  hotel  system  in  the  Park 
is  managed  by  a  corporation,  and  that  the  one  hun- 
dred coaches  and  three  hundred  and  fifty  horses 
employed  are  under  the  control  of  the  Yellowstone 
Park  Transportation  Company. 


Geysers  and  Hot  Springs 


CHAPTER  XI 
Geysers  and  Hot  Springs 

Beginning  the  Tour — The  Golden  Gate — Devil's  Slide— Bicycle 
Tourists — Rustic  Falls — Apollinaris  Spring — A  Missing  Boy 
— Obsidian  Cliff — A  Road  of  Glass — Indian  Arrows — Beaver 
Lake — Roaring  Mountain — Devil's  Frying-Pan — Norris  Gey- 
ser Basin  —  "  Larry  "  —  Luncheon  —  Souvenirs  —  Sulphuric 
Odors — Pine  Sulphur  Springs — Congress  Spring — The  Black 
Growler — Hurricane — Emerald  Pool — New  Crater — Devil's 
Inkstand — Monarch  Geyser — Minute  Man — The  First  Coach 
— "  The  Boys  " — Maintenance  of  the  Roads — Dangerous  Shores 
— Park  Drives — The  Teapot — Mount  Schurz — Gibbon  Cafion 
— Beryl  Spring — Gibbon  Falls — Firehold  River — Grizzly  Bears 
— The  Driver's  Story — White  Dust — "  Stop-overs  " — Tourists' 
Outfits— Still  Greater  Wonders — Mammoth  Paint  Pots — Fines 
— Accidents. 


T  is  with  intense  pleasure  that  we  rise  early  in 
the  morning  to  repack  and  arrange  our  lug- 
gage so  as  to  obtain  the  required  minimum, 
necessary  for  a  tour  through  the  Yellow- 
stone. The  best  satchel  in  which  to  carry  your 
belongings  is  the  telescope  bag,  large  or  small, 
according  to  the  length  of  the  trip  and  your  indi- 
vidual needs.     Immediately  after  breakfast  we  put 

on  the  long  dusters  and  dark  glasses,  and  having 

311 


312  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

purchased  tickets  for  the  round  trip  at  the  hotel, 
betake  ourselves  to  the  front  entrance,  where  the 
stage  stands  before  the  porch,  with  its  four  fresh 
and  spirited  horses.  The  coach  is  quickly  filled 
with  a  merry  party  who  call  out  cheerful  good-byes 
to  those  left  behind,  as  the  whip  is  cracked  over  the 
heads  of  the  leaders,  and  we  seem  to  be  taken  up 
by  the  wind.  The  day  is  charming,  and  the  early 
morning  atmosphere  exhilarating. 

"  Luxuriant  joy, 
And  pleasure  in  excess,  sparkling,  exist 
On  every  brow,  and  revel  unrestrained." 

After  a  drive  of  four  miles,  we  reach  what  might 
be  termed  the  entrance  to  the  Park — the  Golden 
Gate.  This  is  a  rocky  pass,  through  which  a 
branch  of  the  Gardiner  River  flows.  The  yellow 
wall  on  either  side  has  given  the  pass  its  name. 

The  road  here,  one  of  the  most  difficult  pieces  of 
engineering,  has  cost  the  government  $14,000, 
although  it  is  scarcely  a  mile  in  length.  Our  alti- 
tude at  this  point  is  7, 300  feet,  and  the  scenes  about 
us  are  so  beautiful  that  with  one  accord  we  beg  the 
driver  to  wait  while  we  feast  our  eyes  upon  the 
wonderful  pictures.  On  the  slope  of  Bunsen  Peak, 
which  towers  above  the  gate  on  one  side,  may  be 
seen  the  Devil's  Slide,  extending  from  the  summit  to 


Geysers  and  Hot  Springs  313 

the  base.  Doubtless  his  Majesty  has  coasted  here 
many  times,  in  his  moments  of  relaxation  from  his 
arduous  labors — if  such  relaxation  be  possible  to  his 
indefatigable  spirit. 

The  scenes  around  us  win  constant  excla- 
mations of  delight.  Here  is  the  lovely  Rustic 
Falls,  fed  by  ice  and  snow  from  the  mountain  top, 
gliding  over  the  brilliantly-colored  rocks,  with  a 
graceful  sweep  from  its  height  of  sixty  feet  to  lose 
itself  in  the  rocky  mass  of  the  cahon  below.  It 
forms  an  enchanting  picture.  Looking  backward, 
we  have  a  fine  view  of  the  Golden  Gate  Canon, 
while  before  us  loom  up  many  giant  peaks.  Here 
are  Quadrant,  Antler,  and  Dome  Mountains,  each 
rising  to  a  height  of  more  than  10,000  feet.  Their 
gigantic  summits,  crowned  with  snow,  and  glisten- 
ing in  the  sun,  are  visible  from  many  points  along 
our  route.  They  lend  a  glorious  majesty  to  these 
views,  which  are  ever  filled  with  a  charm  of  their 
own. 

As  we  dash  over  the  road,  huge  clouds  of  dust 
are  constantly  lifted  into  mid  air,  and  settling  upon 
the  trees  and  rocks  that  line  the  way.  When  a  halt 
is  made  to  water  the  horses,  we  alight,  and  walking 
into  the  shady  depths  of  a  forest,  refresh  ourselves 
with  the  delightfully  cool  and  sparkling  waters  of 


314  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

the  ApoUinaris  Spring.  This  spring  is  three  feet  in 
diameter,  and  probably  eighteen  inches  deep.  Its 
waters  are  charged  with  soda,  magnesium  and 
sulphur.  After  we  have  climbed  to  our  seats,  and 
just  before  starting,  an  old  lady  comes  running 
towards  us,  with  alarm  and  anxiety  depicted  on  her 
countenance,  and  asks  the  driver  if  he  has  seen  a 
boy  with  a  stray  horse  along  the  route,  adding  in 
explanation,  that  her  son  left  the  camp  yesterday,  in 
search  of  a  couple  of  stray  horses  and  as  he  has  not 
returned,  she  fears  an  accident  has  befallen  him. 
When  the  driver  replies  that  he  has  seen  nothing  of 
either  boy  or  horses,  she  bursts  into  a  flood  of  tears, 
and  we  leave  her  thus,  standing  in  the  road  and 
sobbing  convulsively. 

Our  course  is  now  to  the  wonderful  Obsidian 
ClifT,  a  steep  and  towering  mass  of  volcanic  glass, 
whose  blocks  and  columns,  of  every  shape,  are  as 
black  as  coal.  The  cliff  rises  two  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  above  the  road,  and  glistens  in  the  sun  with  a 
mirror-like  effect.  Red  and  yellow  streaks  are 
visible  here  and  there  upon  its  surface.  The  road 
along  its  base,  composed  of  this  mineral  glass,  was 
constructed  with  much  difficulty.  Huge  fires  were 
built  around  the  massive  blocks,  and  when  in  a 
state  of  their  utmost  expansion,  water  was  dashed 


Geysers  and  Hot  Springs  317 

over  them,  cooling  them  so  suddenly  that  they  were 
shattered  into  small  fragments.  Then  with  great 
levers,  bars,  picks,  etc.,  a  good  wagon  road  was 
constructed  along  the  slope.  The  hands  and  faces 
of  the  workmen  were  severely  lacerated  during 
these  operations.  The  road  is  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
long,  and  is  the  only  road  of  native  glass  upon  the 
continent. 

The  cliflf  was  a  famous  resort  of  the  Indians,  who 
came  hither  to  manufacture  their  arrow-heads  of 
its  glass.  Our  driver  is  accommodating  enough  to 
stop  and  allow  us  an  opportunity  of  securing  some 
beautiful  specimens  of  this  rock.  On  our  right, 
opposite  Obsidian  Cliff  is  Beaver  Lake,  along  whose 
bank  our  pathway  lies.  It  is  about  a  mile  long, 
and  a  half  a  mile  wide.  It  was  formed  by  ancient 
bea-'er  dams,  now  overgrown  with  vegetation. 
Its  shores  are  lined  with  rich  verdure,  and  the 
artificial  falls  over  the  dams  constructed  here,  are 
from  two  to  four  feet  in  depth,  and  exceedingly 
picturesque.  The  driver  points  with  his  long  whip 
to  a  hill  on  our  left,  about  1,000  feet  in  height,  and 
tells  us  it  is  Roaring  Mountain.  From  its  summit, 
several  geysers  are  sending  their  hot  spray  from  six 
to  eight  feet  in  the  air.  Many  other  geysers  and 
little  hot  springs  with  their  steam  floating  around 


318  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

them,  appear  along  our  way.  At  every  turn  some- 
thing new  presents  itself  for  our  admiration  or  sur- 
prise. Were  this  not  the  case,  the  lively  spirits  of 
our  party  would  prevent  the  drive  from  being  either 
monotonous  or  wearisome. 

"Whoa!"  suddenly  shouts  our  Jehu,  and  the 
horses  stop  obediently  at  the  Devil's  Frying-Pan. 
We  are  allowed  a  few  moments,  in  which  to  peep 
into  this  great  cooking  utensil  of  his  Satanic  Maj- 
esty. We  are  all  anxious  to  see  what  the  Old  Boy 
dines  upon,  but  probably  are  ahead  of  time,  for  in 
the  Pan  appears  only  a  great  bubbling  and  boil- 
ing mass  of  water,  which  in  its  agitation  rises  at 
times  to  a  height  of  twelve  inches.  The  pan  is 
circular,  and  about  eight  feet  in  diameter.  Several 
smaller  bowls  close  by  may  be  supposed  to  belong- 
to  his  Majesty's  children.  We  do  not  wait  for 
further  developments  along  this  line,  as  we  are  all 
aware  that  a  good  luncheon  is  being  prepared  for 
us  at  the  Norris  Geyser  Basin,  which  is  our  next 
stopping-place. 

The  scenes  are  constantly  changing,  as  we  make 
our  progress  through  this  wonderful  region,  and  no 
point  is  without  its  attraction.  With  a  grand 
flourish  we  pull  up  at  Norris  Geyser  Basin,  after  a 
drive  of  twenty  miles  from  Mammoth  Hot  Springs. 


Geysers  and  Hot  Springs  319 

As  the  stage  stops  in  front  of  a  spacious  tent,  we 
are  met  and  heartily  greeted  by  the  famous  "  Larry," 
or  more  properly  Mr.  Lawrence  Matthews,  and  his 
pretty  daughter  Lizzie.  With  cordial  hospitality, 
Larry  invites  us  into  his  tent:  but  this  is  no  "  Will 
you  walk  into  my  parlor  act  "  ?  for  within  we  find 
all  conveniences,  by  means  of  which  we  may  make 
a  respectable  appearance  at  the  lunch  table.  We 
are  introduced  to  Larry's  wife,  a  sensible  woman, 
who  attends  to  the  comfort  of  the  ladies,  while 
Larry  offers  to  the  men,  with  his  ever  ready  joke, 
"a  wee  drop  under  the  rose,"  which  proves  to  be 
only  a  mild  lemonade. 

Our  whole  party  is  soon  seated  at  a  long  table, 
abundantly  provided  with  good  fare,  well  cooked; 
and  we  all  do  justice  to  the  repast.  Meanwhile 
Larry  entertains  us  with  Irish  and  Yankee  songs, 
and  comic  anecdotes,  interspersed  with  serious  re- 
flections and  some  valuable  suggestions.  He 
"  mix'd  reason  with  pleasure,  and  wisdom  with 
mirth."  Larry's  daughter  Lizzie  collects  specimens 
of  the  native  flowers  of  the  Yellowstone,  and 
arranges  them  in  small  albums,  with  such  graceful 
and  pretty  effect,  that  they  find  a  ready  sale  among 
the  visitors  to  the  Norris  Basin.  Having  made  our 
selections  of  these,  and  finished  our  lunch,  we  are 


320  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

ready  for  the  tour  of  the  Basin,  accompanied  by  the 
experienced  guides  who  conduct  all  visitors  over 
this  region  of  hot  earth,  air  and  water.  Our  altitude 
is  7,700  feet. 

This  basin,  formerly  known  as  the  Gibbon 
Geyser  Basin,  was  discovered  in  1875  by  Colonel  P. 
W.  Norris,  then  superintendent  of  the  Park.  Since 
1 88 1  it  has  been  called  by  his  name.  It  covers  an 
area  of  six  square  miles,  and  is  one  of  the  highest 
geyser  basins  in  the  Park.  As  we  approach  this 
famous  spot,  we  are  impressed  with  the  noisy 
demonstrations  around  us.  Here  are  mutterings, 
grumblings,  intermittent  rumbling  sounds,  as 
though  a  vast  work  is  being  carried  in  the  sub- 
terranean regions.  The  air  is  filled  with  steam 
which  is  constantly  changing  in  volume,  and  now 
and  then  bursts  forth  with  startling  effect.  Odors 
of  sulphur  and  other  gases  assail  us  most  unpleas- 
antly, giving  us  the  feeling  of  wandering  along  the 
outskirts  of  the  infernal  regions.  We  are  conducted 
rapidly  from  one  point  of  interest  to  another.  The 
Pine  Sulphur  Spring  is  a  body  of  water,  boiling  hot, 
and  in  a  constant  state  of  effervescence.  New 
springs  are  frequently  discovered  in  this  basin,  and 
reported,  much  as  the  astronomers  announce  the 
appearance  of  new  planets  in  the  heavens.     We  are 


Geysers  and  Hot  Springs  321 

told  that  two  geysers  burst  forth  in  this  neighbor- 
hood, but  two  weeks  ago.  No  snow  remains  on 
the  ground  here,  even  during  the  coldest  season. 

The  largest  spring  is  the  Congress,  whose  enor- 
mous crater,  forty  feet  in  diameter,  is  in  a  constant 
state  of  violent  agitation.  its  pale  blue  waters 
sometimes  rise  fifteen  and  twenty  feet  above  its 
rim,  and  volumes  of  steam  float  continually  above 
its  surface.  Ere  long  it  will  be  classed  among  the 
geysers.  As  the  water  subsides  we  look  into  this 
wonderful  caldron,  but  can  see  nothing  but  steam 
which  is  again  rising  quickly  to  the  surface,  and 
soon  it  again  sends  forth  volumes  of  water  and 
steam  with  a  force  that  compels  us  to  beat  a  hasty 
retreat. 

The  Black  Growler  is  an  unattractive  body  which 
grumbles  as  it  throws  out  large  volumes  of  steam 
from  its  chimney-shaped  crater.  Its  waters  smell 
strongly  of  sulphur,  and  leave  a  black  deposit  around 
the  rim  of  its  opening.  The  Hurricane,  not  far 
away,  is  much  more  violent  in  its  eruptions,  send- 
ing forth  clouds  of  steam  which  envelop  surround- 
ing objects,  and  leave  a  white  coating,  like  a  light 
fall  of  snow,  upon  trees  and  plants.  These  erup- 
tions are  generally  destructive  to  the  vegetation  in 
the  immediate  vicinity. 


322  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

Emerald  Pool,  named  from  the  beautiful  tint  of 
its  waters,  is  so  quiet  that  one  may  look  down  the 
pink  walls  of  its  sulphur  lined  basin  to  a  great 
depth.  Its  surface  covers  an  area  of  two  thousand 
square  feet.  The  New  Crater  burst  forth  upon  the 
world  in  1891,  with  a  great  commotion,  flooding 
the  ravine  with  its  boiling  torrent.  It  soon  settled 
down  to  regular  eruptions,  at  intervals  of  a  half  hour 
or  less.  It  is  surrounded  by  masses  of  orange-col- 
ored rock,  which  cover  even  its  crater,  and  prevent 
its  waters  from  rising  to  a  very  great  height.  We 
observe  this  crater  in  action;  its  waters  rise  about 
tv/enty  feet,  the  eruption  lasting  two  minutes.  In 
my  humble  opinion,  the  New  Crater  is  the  gem  of 
the  series. 

Here  is  the  Devil's  Inkstand,  a  dusky  pool  whose 
waters  give  an  inky  hue  to  its  surrounding  basin. 
Many  springs  follow  these.  Here  is  the  Pearl,  fif- 
teen feet  in  diameter:  and  here  the  Vixen,  sur- 
rounded by  red  rocks,  and  sending  forth  a  stream, 
ten  feet  in  height. 

The  Monarch  is  the  prominent  geyser  of  the  Nor- 
ris  Basin.  It  sends  out  a  column  of  water  one  hun- 
dred feet  in  height,  at  intervals  of  about  twelve 
hours;  but  these  eruptions  are  without  warning,  and 
are  accompanied   by  a  series   of  explosions.      Its 


Geysers  and  Hot  Springs  325 

crater  is  double,  consisting  of  two  oblong  apertures. 
The  surrounding  rocks  are  rich  in  color  and  present 
a  brilliant  effect.  The  Minute  Man,  as  his  name 
implies,  makes  frequent  demonstrations  of  a  small 
nature. 

The  phenomena  of  this  region  are  wonderful  in- 
deed, to  the  visitor,  yet  he  experiences  a  feeling  of 
relief  upon  leaving  the  spot,  where  every  step  is 
taken  with  the  utmost  caution.  Even  the  guides 
have  been  known  to  make  a  misstep,  and  sink  to 
their  knees  in  these  crusty  formations:  and,  though 
the  occasions  are  rare,  some  of  them  have  been  in- 
jured by  their  falls. 

"  Old  Satan  must  have  his  hands  full,  keeping  his 
caldrons  going,"  said  one  of  the  visitors  to  me  as  we 
left  the  basin. 

While  awaiting  the  stage,  we  suddenly  perceive 
a  squad  of  about  twenty  soldiers  on  horseback  ap- 
proaching. They  gallop  up  with  much  commotion, 
shouting,  and  creating  general  confusion,  but  prove 
quite  harmless.  They  are  the  "Boys"  from  Fort 
Meade,  South  Dakota,  who  have  been  detailed  to 
serve  as  policemen  and  guards  in  the  Yellowstone. 

Taking  our  places  in  the  coach,  we  are  once  more 
en  route — this  time  for  the  Lower  Geyser  Basin,  at 
which  point  is  situated  the  Fountain  Hotel.     I  would 


326  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

advise  the  tourist  making  this  tour  for  the  first  time 
to  endeavor  to  obtain  his  seat  in  the  first  coach, 
should  there  be  more  than  one;  for  the  order  in 
which  the  stages  leave  the  hotel  is  maintained  dur- 
ing the  day.  The  advantages  of  the  first,  especially 
in  escaping  the  dust  raised  by  the  others,  are  evident. 

We  follow  a  graded  road,  bounded  on  one  side  by 
the  Gibbon  River.  The  government  makes  an  ap- 
propriation of  $60,000  for  the  maintenance  of  these 
roads.  The  drives  throughout  the  Park  aggregate 
a  distance  of  one  hundred  and  seventy-five  miles. 
They  are  inspected  and  repaired  every  spring,  after 
the  frost  is  out  of  the  ground,  and  the  season  of 
freshets  is  over.  The  road  upon  which  we  now 
are,  has  been  recently  opened,  consequently  there  is 
much  comment  and  criticism  among  the  passen- 
gers. 

Here  hot  springs  empty  their  waters  directly  into 
the  river,  and  small  geysers  fling  their  scalding  foun- 
tains up  from  the  surface  of  the  stream.  We  are 
told  that  it  is  dangerous  to  fish  along  these  banks,  as 
at  any  moment  one  might  step  into  a  spring  of  boil- 
ing water.  Yonder  is  a  funny  little  geyser,  all  alone 
in  the  river,  industriously  spouting  forth  its  tiny 
volume  of  steam.  By  common  consent  we  christen 
it  the  "  Teapot,"  and  ask  our  driver  to  have  it  so  re- 


Geysers  and  Hot  Springs  327 

corded.  He  gives  us  his  promise  to  do  so;  which  is 
doubtless  forgotten  as  soon  as  uttered.  On  our  right 
is  Mount  Schurz,  8, 100  feet  in  height,  upon  whose 
summit  lies  the  Monument  Geyser  Basin,  an  inter- 
esting region,  but  inaccessible  to  the  ordinary  trav- 
eller. Many  pheasants  and  groundhogs  come  out  of 
their  seclusion  to  stare  at  us,  brave  in  their  security 
from  every  shot  except  that  of  the  camera. 

We  are  now  in  Gibbon  Cafion,  whose  rugged 
mountain  pass  affords  the  easiest  road  from  the 
Norris  Geyser  Basin  to  the  Valley  of  the  Firehole. 
Before  us  is  Beryl  Spring,  a  hot  flue  discharging  con- 
siderable steam,  and  attracting  attention  by  the 
noise  it  makes  while  accomplishing  this,  it  is  rather 
attractive,  but  not  noteworthy  after  the  wonders  of 
Norris  Basin.  It  is  the  largest  boiling  spring  in  the 
canon,  being  fifteen  feet  in  diameter. 

The  mountains  rise  boldly  on  either  side,  and  the 
river  wanders  on  its  pleasant  way  beside  us,  reflect- 
ing in  its  waters  the  white  pine,  spruce  nnd  fir  trees 
which  grow  along  these  slopes.  After  a  dusty 
drive  of  about  eight  miles,  we  reach  the  Gibbon 
Falls,  a  picturesque  body  of  water,  foaming  in  a 
series  of  cascades  over  a  rocky  ledge  from  a  height 
of  eighty  feet.  We  now  have  on  our  right  the 
Firehole  River,  a  rapid  current,  receiving  its  name 


328  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

from  the  many  hot  springs  which  empty  into  its 
channel.  We  trace  the  presence  of  many  a  little 
hot  spring  by  the  column  of  steam  issuing  from 
the  surface  of  the  river.  And  this  is  the  end  of  the 
twenty  mile  drive  from  Norris  Geyser  Basin  to  the 
Lower  Geyser  Basin. 

As  we  approach  the  Fountain  Hotel,  we  perceive 
on  the  edge  of  the  forest  two  huge  grizzly  bears, 
quietly  eating  from  the  dump.  Our  driver  who  has 
entertained  us  at  intervals  with  tales  of  his  ex- 
perience while  acting  as  guide  to  tlie  visitors  in 
the  Park,  now  proceeds  to  regale  us  with  a  bear 
story. 

"There  was  an  amateur  photographer  in  the 
party,"  he  continues,  "who  wanted  to  photograph 
a  bear — one  of  the  comparatively  tame  ones  which 
frequent  the  dump  at  the  hotel.  This  bear  had 
two  cubs.  The  photographer  advanced  closer  and 
closer  to  his  prize,  until  the  guide  warned  him  that 
he  had  gone  far  enough  for  his  own  safety.  But 
the  amateur  was  of  a  different  opinion,  and  con- 
tinued to  advance,  —  when  suddenly  Mrs.  Bruin, 
with  flashing  eyes  and  rising  fur  made  a  dash  for 
him.  You  should  have  seen  that  tourist  drop  his 
camera  and  plates  and  take  to  his  heels, — and  the 
bear  after  him.     It  was  an  exciting  chase.      The 


Geysers  and  Hot  Springs  329 

tourist  won,  but  he  certainly  had  a  great  fright:  and 
lost  his  picture." 

We  arrive  at  the  hotel,  literally  covered  with  a 
coating  of  fine  white  dust,  containing  much  carbon- 
ate of  lime,  which  clings  to  our  clothing,  and  is 
hard  to  shake  off-  A  corps  of  bell-boys,  however, 
take  us  in  hand,  and  with  good  stiff  whisk  brooms 
soon  make  us  fairly  presentable. 

Travellers  who  are  easily  fatigued  should  "stop 
over"  at  one  or  more  of  the  larger  stations,  where 
there  are  always  good  hotels.  Tickets  are  good 
until  used,  and  it  is  easy  to  arrange  for  places  in  the 
coach  when  you  are  ready  to  continue  the  journey. 
The  hotels  and  transportation  companies  have  tele- 
phones and  telegraph  offices  conveniently  located, 
and  by  means  of  these  all  details  may  be  speedily 
arranged.  The  wonders  of  this  region  are  worthy 
of  closer  observation  than  the  amateur  can  give,  as 
he  hastens  along  with  his  snap  shots  and  quick 
plates.  Meals  and  accommodations  are  good,  and 
the  air  pure  and  wholesome  to  most  constitutions. 
It  is  true  that  continued  residence  in  these  altitudes 
may  affect  some  persons,  as  it  has  me,  with  dizzi- 
ness and  headache,  and  almost  daily  bleeding  of  the 
nose.  At  this  basin  we  are  7,250  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea. 


330  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

A  dance  is  given  at  the  hotel  this  evening,  but 
1  prefer  devoting  this  time  to  the  more  neces- 
sary ordering  of  clothing,  cameras  and  sketch- 
books. 

We  remain  here  several  days  enjoying  the  rest 
and  beauty  of  the  strange  new  world  around  us. 
The  chief  attractions  of  the  place  lie  within  com- 
fortable walking  distance  from  the  hotel,  and  thus 
may  be  viewed  by  its  guests  by  day  or  evening.  It 
is  stated  that  seventeen  geysers  and  seven  hundred 
hot  springs  are  scattered  over  this  basin.  Surely 
this  must  be  the  central  point  of  nature's  marvellous 
operations.  It  is  well  that  the  traveller  has  been  in- 
troduced to  the  Norris  Geyser  Basin  previous  to  his 
arrival  at  this  point,  for  if  seen  afterwards  they 
would  suffer  by  comparison. 

A  word  here  in  reference  to  the  costume  of  the 
traveller  in  this  region.  Experience  has  proved  that 
the  bicycle  suit  is  a  very  convenient  costume  for  the 
man  tourist — but  in  place  of  the  stockings  I  would 
substitute  colored  canvas  leggings.  Add  to  these  a 
short  round  coat,  felt  hat,  and,  of  course,  the  linen 
duster  and  the  goggles,  and  he  is  ready  for  a  tramp, 
ride  or  sail.  Ladies  find  the  short  skirt  of  great 
advantage,  supplemented  by  the  linen  duster,  gog- 
gles and  a  veil.     It  is  well  also  to  carry  an  indi- 


Geysers  and  Hot  Springs  331 

vidual  medicine  chest.  Although  a  doctor  may  be 
within  call,  it  is  not  always  possible  to  secure  his 
immediate  attention. 

Marvels  increase  as  we  penetrate  more  deeply 
into  this  natural  wonderland.  The  Mammoth  Paint 
Pots  are  only  a  short  distance  from  the  hotel. 
This  name  has  been  applied  to  a  mud  caldron 
whose  basin  is  2,400  feet  in  area.  The  fine  white 
mixture  in  this  basin  is  in  a  state  of  constant  fer- 
mentation, and  resembles  a  bed  of  mortar.  As  it 
bubbles  up,  it  rises  in  the  forms  of  rings,  cones, 
etc.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  rim  five  feet  in  height, 
the  lower  side  of  which  is  dotted  with  cones,  two 
and  three  feet  high,  in  various  shades  of  red  and 
pink.  These  also  are  formed  by  the  bubbling  over 
of  the  mixture. 

Visitors  are  prohibited  from  poking  sticks,  or 
dropping  blocks,  stones  or  any  other  substances  in 
these  springs  and  geysers;  yet  this  is  frequently 
done.  The  spirit  of  the  old  Adam  continually  im- 
pels the  tourist  to  make  the  experiment.  It  is  best 
to  refrain  from  too  close  an  investigation  of  Nature's 
mysteries  here,  as  accidents  are  frequently  the  result 
of  this  prying.  The  rules  are  not  unreasonable,  and 
are  made  as  much  for  the  protection  of  the  visitor, 
as  in  the  interest  of  the  Park. 


332  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

The  fine  for  the  above  offense  is  $i,ooo  and  im- 
prisonment for  one  year.  I  have  some  conversation 
with  the  guards  stationed  about  this  section,  and 
learn  much  of  their  lives,  accidents  and  adventures. 
One  of  them  told  me  that  as  he  was  riding  over 
the  crust  of  this  basin,  (all  the  guards  are  provided 
with  horses),  he  suddenly  stumbled  into  a  hot 
spring,  and  although  he  made  every  effort  to  extri- 
cate himself,  both  he  and  his  horse  sank  deeper  and 
deeper,  and  he  was  in  up  to  his  waist  before  help 
arrived.  The  horse  died  from  the  effect  of  the  scald- 
ing water,  and  the  guard  sustained  severe  injuries. 

I  hear  another  story  of  a  tourist,  who  while  fish- 
ing from  the  bank  of  one  of  these  streams,  broke 
into  one  of  the  hot  springs.  His  cries  for  help  soon 
brought  assistance,  and  he  was  rescued  from  his 
dangerous  position.  He  was  taken  to  a  hotel,  un- 
dressed, and  put  into  a  very  hot  bath,  where  he  re- 
mained seven  hours.  Notwithstanding  this,  he  re- 
covered only  after  months  of  suffering.  Instances 
of  blood  poisoning  have  also  been  known  to  occur 
from  exposure  to  the  waters  of  these  springs. 


In  The  Upper  Geyser  Basin 


CHAPTER  XII 
In  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin 

"  No  Name  " — Clepsydra  Spring — Fountain  Geyser — King  of  the 
Basin — A  Sublime  Spectacle — The  Jet — The  Dump — Photo- 
graphing the  Bears — Laughing  Gas — Midway  Geyser  Basin — 
Turquoise  Spring — Prismatic  Lake — Unrivalled  Beauty — Ex- 
celsior Geyser — "  Hell's  Half  Acre  " — The  Gem — Morning 
Glory — Grotto  Geyser — Punch  Bowl — A  Bewildering  Won- 
derland—  Black  Sand  Basin — Emerald  Pool — Sunset  Lake — 
Anticipations — Hasty  Descriptions — Geyser  Time  Table — 
College  Students — "  The  Friend  of  the  Tourist  " — A  Reliable 
Geyser — A  Marvellous  Spectacle — The  Patriarch — Bee  Hive 
— Giantess — Butterfly — Topaz  Pool — The  Quaker — The  Lion 
and  his  Family — Castle  Geyser — The  Largest  Cone  in  the 
Park — Water  of  the  Geysers — Sawmill — A  Bluebell — Oblong 
Geyser — Giant — A  Milk  Geyser — The  End  of  the  Day. 


ERE  are  many  springs  and  small  geysers, 

unnamed,  or  fancifully  designated  by  the 

tourist.     One  of  these  is   known   among 

our   party   as    "No   Name";  a  spring  or 

pool  of  no  especial  interest  apart  from  the  general 

attraction  of  everything  in  this  phenomenal  region, 

save  that  we  have  adopted  it,  as  it  were. 

We  hear  a  great  sound  of  hissing  and  sputtering 

as  we  approach   the  beautiful   Clepsydra   Spring. 
335 


33^  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

This  geyser  has  apparently  four  openings,  from 
which  steam  and  water  are  cast,  sometimes  to  a 
height  of  twenty  feet.     It  is  active  at  short  intervals. 

Here  is  Little  Spasm  Geyser,  with  its  constant 
eruptions,  and  here  the  Oyster,  named  on  account 
of  its  resemblance  to  that  bivalve;  but  the  most 
beautiful  of  all  is  the  Fountain  Geyser,  which  stands 
a  king  among  its  fellows.  While  we  observe  the 
play  of  this  famous  geyser  at  intervals  throughout 
the  day,  we  reserve  our  greatest  enjoyment  of  its 
beauties  for  the  evening. 

The  earthy  crust  of  this  basin  is  not  so  varied  in 
color  as  that  at  Mammoth  Hot  Springs.  Here  we 
find  more  universal  the  shades  of  yellow,  white  and 
gray.  The  deposits  from  the  Fountain  cover  an 
area  of  several  acres.  Its  crater  is  thirty  feet  in 
diameter,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  rim-like  edge.  In 
all  the  fountain  class  of  geysers,  there  is  no  cone, 
but  a  large  pool,  which  when  at  rest,  bears  a  dose 
resemblance  to  the  quiescent  springs.  When  walk- 
ing upon  the  crust  here,  one  feels  as  though  tread- 
ing upon  thin  ice  covered  snow,  which  frequently 
breaks,  letting  the  walker  down  an  inch  or  two. 
The  Fountain  is  on  an  eminence,  not  far  from  the 
hotel,  and  its  eruptions  occur  at  intervals  of  from 
two  to  four  hours,  continuing  with  great  force  for 


In  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin  339 

ten  or  fifteen  minutes.  When  the  pool  and  crater 
are  filled  with  water  to  the  rim,  it  is  an  indication 
that  an  eruption  will  soon  take  place. 

It  is  now  between  eight  and  nine  o'clock  in  the 
evening,  and  a  beautiful  clear  night,  with  the  moon 
just  spreading  its  silver  radiance  over  a  dark  blue 
sky.  We  await  the  action  of  our  favorite,  impatient 
at  the  slight  delay,  and  look  at  our  watches  every 
few  minutes,  as  though  saying:  "What  has  de- 
tained our  friend  ?  He  should  be  here  by  this  time." 
But  we  are  not  kept  long  in  this  state.  The  heralds 
of  the  monarch  begin  to  agitate  the  waters  in  the 
mouth  of  the  crater.  Now  there  is  a  gentle  bub- 
bling, which  grows  more  violent  until  at  last  the 
steam  bursts  forth  with  a  noise  and  force  that  in- 
crease every  instant.  The  misty  spray  mounts 
higher  and  higher,  until  at  the  crowning  point  of 
the  eruption,  a  vast  body  of  water  and  steam  are 
flung  to  a  height  of  fifty  feet.  This  continues  for 
perhaps  twenty  minutes,  while  the  noise  of  the 
escaping  steam  resounds  about  us.  It  is  a  sublime 
spectacle.  The  great  white  clouds,  filling  the  air, 
are  illumined  by  the  silver  rays  of  the  moon.  We 
are  enraptured  with  the  scene,  the  night  and  our 
surroundings.  After  the  eruption  has  subsided,  the 
\yater  falls  from  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  below 


340  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

the  crater's  rim,  and  all  is  peace  and  quietness  until 
it  begins  to  rise  gradually  towards  another  climax. 

Not  far  from  the  Fountain  is  a  tiny  geyser,  named 
the  Jet,  which  sends  forth  its  fountain  with  a  force 
utterly  disproportioned  to  its  size,  casting  up  a 
stream,  fully  thirty  feet  in  the  air,  with  considerable 
noise. 

Every  one  visits  the  "Dump"  to  see  the  great 
bears  feed.  Here  they  congregate  at  certain  periods, 
the  black,  brown  and  grizzly  creatures,  forming  an 
interesting  group,  very  tempting  to  the  photogra- 
pher. But  much  caution  is  necessary  in  approach- 
ing these  animals,  or  being  too  familiar  in  one's  at- 
tentions. Everything  of  this  kind  is  quickly  re- 
sented. Twice  have  they  rushed  angrily  towards 
me,  when  in  my  anxiety  to  obtain  a  good  picture  I 
have  unwittingly  approached  more  closely  than  they 
deemed  proper. 

The  greatest  wonders  of  this  marvellous  region 
are  still  before  us, — and  now  our  arrangements  are 
made  for  the  journey  to  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin,  a 
drive  of  nineteen  miles.  It  is  no  effort  to  rise  early 
with  such  a  prospect  before  us.  The  coach  leaves 
the  hotel  at  eight  o'clock,  and  we  are  on  time.  The 
amateur  will  not  fail  to  add  many  rolls  and  plates  to 
his   photographic   outfit,   for  innumerable  are  the 


In  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin  341 

beauties  of  this  Upper  Basin;  and  unless  at  least 
fifty  plates  are  provided,  he  will  run  short  long  be- 
fore he  has  exhausted  the  wonders  of  the  place. 

How  fresh  and  delightful  is  the  atmosphere! 
This  great  altitude  is  so  exhilarating  that  there  is  a 
constant  effervescence  of  mirth  and  social  merri- 
ment among  our  party.  One  member  is  so  witty 
that  no  subject  fails  to  draw  from  her  sparkling 
metaphors  and  similes.  And  we  greet  her  sallies  as 
though  we  were  all  under  the  influence  of  laughing 
gas.  Even  our  driver  seems  infected  with  the  gen- 
eral spirit  of  hilarity,  and  as  the  horses  step  gayly 
forward,  we  feel  that  no  more  delightful  company 
of  tourists  than  ours  has  ever  been  carried  through 
these  regions. 

At  the  end  of  three  miles  we  come  to  the  Midway 
Geyser  Basin,  which  is  really  the  upper  portion  of 
the  Lower  Basin,  being  situated  midway  between 
the  extreme  points  of  the  Upper  and  Lower  Basins. 
It  contains  hundreds  of  hot  springs  and  geysers,  and 
its  phenomena  are  of  a  stupendous  character.  Its 
most  interesting  points  are  Turquoise  Spring,  Ex- 
celsior Geyser  and  Prismatic  Lake, 

Turquoise  Spring  is  the  first  to  claim  our  atten- 
tion, as  it  is  but  a  short  distance  from  the  road. 
This  is  a  quiet  pool,  about  a  hundred  feet  in  diam- 


342  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

eter,  and  fully  sixty  feet  deep.  The  water  is  trans- 
parent, and  of  a  brilliant  blue  color.  Small  streams 
are  constantly  flowing  from  its  sides.  The  crusty 
formation  here  displays  the  various  shades  of  yellow, 
green  and  brown,  in  evidence  of  the  copper,  iron 
and  sulphur  in  the  water.  One  can  scarcely  im- 
agine anything  more  beautiful  than  this  spring:  yet 
a  few  steps  farther  we  are  confronted  by  a  body  of 
water,  which  surpasses  all  that  we  have  yet  seen  in 
size  and  beauty.  This  is  Prismatic  Lake,  two  hun- 
dred and  fifty  by  four  hundred  feet,  and  said  to  be 
the  most  perfect  spring  of  its  kind  in  the  world.  It 
is  impossible  by  pen  or  photograph  to  give  even  a 
faint  idea  of  the  exquisite  display  of  colors  which 
gives  to  this  lake  its  name.  From  its  surface  arises 
a  mist  which  in  the  sunlight  is  gloriously  beautiful. 
Its  water  is  deep  blue  in  the  centre,  changing  to 
green,  and  beyond  that  to  deep  orange.  Its  tem- 
perature is  about  146  degrees.  The  mound  formed 
by  its  eruptions  is  of  a  brownish  gray  color,  upon 
which  deposits  of  brilliant  red,  shading  into  purples 
and  browns,  form  vivid  bands,  distinctly  marked, 
and  wonderful  in  effect.  The  edge  of  the  lake  is 
curved  in  graceful  scallops,  over  which  the  water 
flows  in  every  direction,  forming  a  succession  of 
terraces,  whose  delicacy  and  richness  of  coloring 


In  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin  343 

are  utterly  inexpressible.  1  doubt  if  anytiiing  love- 
lier will  greet  us  in  our  journey  through  the  Park. 

The  Excelsior  Geyser  is  a  vast  caldron,  close  to 
the  edge  of  Firehole  River,  into  whose  stream,  it  is 
said,  it  pours  4,000  gallons  of  water  a  minute,  it 
has  been  inactive  since  1888,  but  previous  to  that 
time,  its  eruptions  resembled  those  of  a  volcano,  it 
sent  forth  columns  of  water,  fifty  feet  in  diameter, 
to  the  enormous  height  of  two  hundred  and  fifty 
feet.  It  has  the  appearance  of  a  vast  pit,  and  its 
deep  blue  waters,  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  below  the 
surface,  are  so  constantly  agitated  that  dense  clouds 
of  steam  obscure  its  crater,  which  is  visible  only 
when  the  wind  blov^/s  them  aside.  Its  walls  are 
perpendicular  and  about  twenty  feet  in  height.  This 
geyser  has  been  visited  by  thousands  of  people,  and 
previous  to  1881  was  known  as  "  Hell's  Half  Acre." 
It  has  already  had  two  periods  of  violent  activity, 
when  it  ejected  rocks  as  well  as  water.  When  it 
shall  again  burst  forth  to  fill  the  world  anew  with 
awe  and  amazement,  none  can  tell.  In  this  region 
Nature  is  chary  of  her  secrets. 

The  ride  from  here  is  dusty,  and  we  amuse  our- 
selves by  watching  for  the  small  geysers  which  line 
the  banks  of  the  Firehole  River.  Our  ride  is  also 
enlivened  by  traveller's  stories,  and  the  ever  ready 


344  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

anecdotes  of  the  driver.  We  stop  to  view  a  silent 
spring  called  the  Gem,  whose  surface  is  about 
twenty  feet  in  diameter,  and  its  waters  a  pure  emer- 
ald. We  can  look  far  down  into  its  depths  of  forty 
or  fifty  feet.  The  deposit  left  by  its  crystal  over- 
flow is  exquisite  in  form  and  color. 

Here  is  the  Morning  Glory,  another  quiet  pool, 
about  twenty  feet  in  diameter,  with  delicately 
colored  rim  and  deep  blue  transparent  waters:  and 
now  quite  suddenly  we  come  upon  the  Fan, 
Mortar,  and  Riverside  Geysers,  on  the  river  bank  at 
the  road  crossing.  They  do  not  favor  us  with  an 
exhibition  of  their  powers.  In  rapid  succession, 
and  almost  too  quickly  for  record  follow  several 
geysers,  then  comes  the  Indicator,  heralding  the 
Grotto,  v/hose  cavern-like  crater  is  worthy  of  es- 
pecial attention.  This  geyser  casts  its  stream  fully 
thirty  feet  in  the  air,  with  an  eruption  lasting  about 
twenty  minutes.  A  short  distance  farther  is  the 
broken  crater  of  one  of  the  greatest  geysers  in  the 
Park.  And  now  come  Comet,  Splendid  and  Daisy, 
all  having  their  regular  periods  of  eruption,  in 
which  their  waters  are  thrown  from  fifty  to  two 
hundred  feet  in  the  air.  They  are  ail  beautiful,  yet 
each  possesses  its  individual  charm. 

The  Punch  Bowl  is  a  lovely  spring,  situated  on 


fe 


o 


In  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin  347 

the  summit  of  a  small  mound  about  five  feet  in 
height,  and  ten  in  diameter.  It  is  set  in  a  frame  of 
brilliant  color,  eighteen  inches  high,  and  its  constant 
overflow  gives  it  a  glistening  appearance  which  is 
very  attractive. 

These  rapidly  changing  scenes,  the  exquisite 
coloring  of  this  region,  and  the  excitement  of  the 
constant  eruptions  have  a  bewildering  effect  upon 
us,  and  we  wonder  if  it  is  possible  for  anything 
more  marvellous  to  appear.  Our  driver  smiles,  as 
he  changes  his  quid  of  tobacco  from  one  side  of  his 
mouth  to  the  other,  and  drawls:  "You  haven't 
only  made  a  beginning.  Whoa!"  and  we  stop  in 
front  of  the  Black  Sand  Basin,  one  of  the  loveliest 
springs  in  the  Upper  Basin.  The  waters  of  the 
spring  are  of  a  delicate  blue,  and  are  set  in  a  dainty 
rim,  ornamented  by  what  resembles  a  fungous 
growth.  The  sloping  sides  are  covered  with  a 
crust  of  mingled  brown  and  creamy  tints,  bordered 
with  pitch  stone  or  obsidian;  from  one  side  flows  a 
stream,  which  blends  the  most  delicate  hues  of 
pink,  yellow  and  saffron  with  various  shades  of 
green.  Its  overflow  spreads  out  upon  a  large  area, 
called  Specimen  Lake,  on  account  of  the  dry  and 
lifeless  trunks,  which  appear  like  specimens  of 
petrifaction. 


348  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

Emerald  Pool  is  another  of  the  quiescent  springs, 
exquisite  in  color,  and  a  favorite  with  those  familiar 
with  the  Park.  But  there  are  so  many  beautiful 
springs,  all  so  wonderful  in  formation,  so  perfect  in 
coloring,  that  it  is  difficult  to  pronounce  any  one  of 
them  as  the  most  perfect  of  the  series.  Within 
this  small  limit  of  perhaps  a  square  mile  are  to  be 
found  the  grandest  and  most  powerful  geysers 
known  to  man,  and  picturesque  pools  of  quiescent 
but  scalding  water,  unrivalled  in  beauty  of  form  and 
delicacy  of  coloring. 

Here  is  Sunset  Lake,  a  spring  radiant  with  pris- 
matic colors,  displaying  upon  its  walls  and  rim 
lovely  combinations  of  brown,  yellow  and  gray, 
while  the  centre  of  the  pool  is  deep  blue.  It  would 
be  impossible  to  imitate  these  divine  tints.  They 
are  the  masterwork  of  a  Divine  Hand.  Who  can 
truly  describe  these  scenes,  as  they  pass  before  the 
bewildered  glance  in  rapid  succession  ? 

During  our  drive  to  Old  Faithful  we  see  numer- 
ous small  geysers  and  springs,  all  boiling  and  sput- 
tering to  a  greater  or  less  extent,  and  sending  up 
their  steam  signals. 

We  approach  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin  with  lively 
anticipations,  for  we  have  read  in  the  guide-books 
that  this  basin  covers  an  area  of  four  square  miles, 


In  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin  349 

and  contains  twenty-six  geysers  and  upwards  of 
four  hundred  iiot  springs;  and  we  are  impatient  to 
behold  these  marvels  of  nature.  Before  proceeding 
further,  I  will  for  convenient  reference,  copy  here 
from  the  schedule  a  list  of  these  geysers,  with  the 
height,  duration  and  intervals  of  their  eruptions. 

UPPER  BASIN. 


HEIGHT  INTERVAI.S  DURATION 

IN  OF  OF 

FEET.  ERUPTION. 


Old  Faithful  ....  165 

Bee  Hive 200 

Giantess 125 

Lion 75 

Lioness lOO 

Cubs 3  to  10 

Surprise 50 

Sawmill 10  to  30 

Grand 200 

Turban 25 

Riverside 100 

Fan 30 

Artemisia 100 

Jewel 30 

Grotto 20 

Giant 250 

Oblong 20 

Splendid 200 

Castle 125 

Economic 30 

Cascade 20  to  40 


65-75  min. 
12  lirs.  to  4  days 

8  to  12  days 

2  to  5  times  daily 

Irregular 

Frequent 

Irregular 

2  to  4  hrs. 
Sev'l  times  w'k. 

Irregular 
6  to  7  hrs. 

3  hrs. 

Daily 
Frequent 

3  to  5  hrs. 

4  to  7  days 

6  hrs. 

Irregular 

8  to  12  hrs. 

6  min. 
Half  hour 


7  min. 

10  min. 

10  to  20  hrs. 

8  to  14  min. 

12  min. 

20  min. 

25  min. 

30  to  60  min. 

I  to  3  hrs. 

30  to  60  min. 

20  min. 

12  min. 

12  to  30  min. 

2  min. 
30  to  40  min. 

90  min. 
10  to  20  min. 
10  to  20  min. 
60  min. 

1  min. 

2  min. 


350  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 


UPPER  BASIN. 


HEIGHT  INTERVALS  DURATION 

IN  OF  OF 

FEET.  ERUPTION. 


Two  hrs. 


lo  mm. 


Daisy 60 

Sponge Spring. 

Punch  Bowl  ....  Spring,  sometimes  an  active  geyser. 

Black  Sand  Basin    .     .  Very  interesting.     Fine  display  of  color. 
Sunset  Lake  .     .     .     .        "  "  u         u         «      « 

Emerald  Pool      .     .     .  Exquisite  colored  spring. 
Morning  Glory  Spring  "  "  " 

Biscuit  Basin      .     .     .  Peculiar  spot,  numerous  beautiful  pools. 
Chinaman      ....       40 
Spasmodic      ....       40 

Turban 40 

Oblong 50 

Mortar 30 

Cliff 100 

Lone  Star      ....  75 


Irregular 

2  min. 

Irregular 

20  min. 

Frequently 

20  min. 

6  hrs. 

5  min. 

2  hrs. 

5  min. 

4  to  8  hrs. 

8  min. 

40  min.  to  2  hrs. 

10  min. 

Is  it  strange  that  we  are  excited  at  the  prospect 
of  beholding  such  phenomena  ?  And  our  excite- 
ment increases  as  we  enter  upon  these  scenes  of 
grandeur.  One  could  spend  many  days  in  this 
region  and  still  find  new  cause  for  wonder  and 
delight.  Unfortunately  the  hotel  which  stood  here 
has  been  destroyed  by  fire.  It  is  said  that  the 
company  contemplates  building  another  for  the 
accommodation  of  tourists  who  wish  to  spend 
several    days    at    this    basin.     The    surface    upon 


In  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin  3^1 

which  we  walk  is  composed  of  tissues  which  give 
one  tile  feeling  of  treading  upon  moss.  The 
whiteness  of  its  chalky  coating  is  very  trying  to  the 
eyes,  and  we  turn  to  the  woods  and  mountains  as  a 
refreshing  contrast.  The  hissing  sounds  and  noisy 
steam  explosions  remind  us  of  a  Fourth  of  July 
celebration.  Our  guides  are  rapid  in  their  descrip- 
tions, and  from  frequent  repetition,  run  over  the 
points  of  each  spring  and  geyser,  much  as  the 
European  guides  describe  the  attractive  features  of 
Stratford-on-Avon.  I  attempt  to  follow  them  in  the 
order  of  the  geysers,  but  between  photographic 
enthusiasm  and  the  excitement  of  beholding  these 
sudden  explosions  of  steam  and  water,  I  am  com- 
pelled to  give  up  the  race. 

We  enjoy,  as  must  every  one  who  visits  this 
basin,  one  of  the  grandest  spectacles  in  the  country; 
perhaps  in  the  world.  Doubtless  others  have  ex- 
perienced the  same  confused  sensation,  as  though 
the  brain  is  in  a  whirl,  on  witnessing  these  gorgeous 
volumes  of  steam  shooting  into  the  air  at  every  con- 
ceivable angle.  We  seem  to  be  in  a  world  of 
geysers.  Earth  and  sky  are  full  of  them.  They 
threaten  to  engulf  us,  and  sweep  us  out  of 
existence. 

A  good  wholesome  lunch   is  served  here  with 


3^  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

college  students  to  wait  upon  us.  These  western 
college  boys  are  to  be  commended  for  their  energy 
and  ambition,  and  in  the  hotels  and  lunch  stations 
where  they  are  found  as  waiters  during  the  summer 
vacations,  visitors  are  served  with  intelligence  and 
despatch. 

Old  Faithful  is  fitly  named  as  "the  reliable  friend 
of  the  tourist."  Have  you  not  heard  of  him  ?  Does 
he  need  an  introduction  from  me  ?  I  have  seen 
pictures  of  this  wonderful  geyser,  when  he  seemed 
more  like  the  ideal  of  the  traveller's  tale  than  a 
grand  reality.  But  now  he  is  before  me,  a  majestic 
geyser  sending  his  mass  of  steam  high  in  the  air. 
It  seems  the  realization  of  a  dream,  A  portrait 
vivified.  Some  one  has  said  that  any  five  geysers 
could  be  erased  from  the  list,  rather  than  Old 
Faithful,  There  may  be  more  powerful  geysers, 
more  artistic  formations,  but  Old  Faithful  is  ever 
the  glory,  the  delight,  the  pride  of  the  visitor  to  the 
Yellowstone.  Day  and  night,  in  summer  and 
winter,  through  sunshine  and  rain,  he  makes  his 
eruptions  every  sixty-three  minutes.  Storms  do 
not  discourage  him,  for  regularity  is  his  watch- 
word. Yet  he  does  not  always  appear  the  same. 
The  views  are  constantly  changing  as  the  sunshine 
gleams  over  his  steamy  veil  with  prismatic  effect, 


In  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin  353 

or  the  raindrops  fall  to  meet  the  rising  torrent.  The 
winds  bear  aloft  this  great  cloud  like  a  royal  banner, 
and  it  sways  to  and  fro,  enabling  one  now  and  then 
%o  obtain  a  glimpse  of  the  crater. 

We  approach  Old  Faithful  and  look  down  into 
his  mouth,  which  is  six  feet  long  and  two  feet 
wide,  but  hear  only  a  suppressed  gurgle.  But  little 
steam  is  coming  forth. 

After  a  pause  long  enough  for  one  to  adjust  his 
camera,  sketch-book,  or  opera-glasses,  considerable 
agitation  becomes  audible  in  the  crater,  and  water 
and  steam  seem  to  be  struggling  for  the  mastery. 
Now  the  water  is  vanquished,  and  forced  upward 
with  much  noise  and  violence.  Higher  and  higher 
the  torrent  speeds  through  the  air,  until  we  behold 
a  column,  two  feet  in  diameter,  projected  to  a  height 
of  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet. 

We  stand  before  it  mute  and  spellbound.  Only 
the  most  practical  camera  bearers  are  active  at  this 
moment.  We  watch  the  gradual  descent  of  the 
water,  and  when  it  has  wholly  subsided,  note  the 
time  the  eruption  has  occupied  as  about  two 
minutes. 

Boiling  water  flowing  down  the  cone  prevents 
our  ascending  to  its  mouth  for  several  minutes: 
then  all  is  quiet,  and  we  collect  our  thoughts  and 


354  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

congratulate  each  other  upon  having  witnessed  the 
wonderful  spectacle.  The  mound  of  the  geyser  is 
a  succession  of  terraces,  whose  bowls  are  now  filled 
with  crystal  water,  and  whose  delicate  edges  appear 
like  exquisite  fretwork.  This  geyser  is  the  patri- 
arch of  the  whole  family,  having  been  the  first  to 
welcome  civilized  man  to  these  regions.  His  years 
may  be  counted  by  the  thousands.  The  outpour  of 
an  average  eruption,  as  estimated  by  the  United 
States  Geological  survey,  is  not  less  than  1,500,000 
gallons,  which  amounts  to  33, 225, 000  gallons  per  day. 
We  make  the  round  of  the  other  geysers,  accom- 
panied by  the  guide  who  gives  us  a  hasty  descrip- 
tion of  each.  Some  are  active,  and  delight  us  with 
their  majestic  beauty  beneath  the  glowing  sunlight; 
others  lying  dormant,  are  calm,  clear  and  exquisite 
in  color.  These  are  the  names  of  a  few  of  them: 
The  Bee  Hive,  whose  fountain  is  so  hot  that  it 
generally  evaporates  while  in  mid  air;  Giantess, 
upon  the  highest  point  of  the  Upper  Basin,  whose 
eruptions  occur  only  once  in  several  days,  but 
whose  display  is  very  wonderful,  continuing  at 
short  intervals  through  a  period  of  twelve  hours. 
The  Butterfly,  a  beautiful  geyser,  whose  eruption 
assumes  the  form  of  a  butterfly,  as  it  is  forced  from 
the  crater  of  the  spring. 


In  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin  357 

An  Englishman  in  our  party  has  the  habit  of 
poking  his  stick  into  these  formations.  I  tell  him 
he  will  subject  himself  to  a  heavy  fine  if  discovered; 
but  he  replies  that  no  harm  is  done,  since  his  cane 
is  not  injured  by  the  experiments. 

Here  is  Topaz  Pool — and  here  the  Sponge,  a 
curious  formation,  resembling  a  great  sponge  in 
character  and  color.  Its  water  boils  and  bubbles, 
sending  up  a  fountain  four  or  five  feet  above  its 
basin.  The  Quaker  is  so  called  from  the  quivering 
of  the  top  scales  of  its  crusty  formation.  There  is  a 
perceptible  rising  of  three  or  four  inches  in  this 
mass — a  strange  phenomenon.  The  Beach  and  the 
Ear  are  named  from  some  real  or  fancied  resem- 
blance to  these  objects. 

The  fountain  of  the  Lion  Geyser  shoots  upward 
to  a  height  of  fully  seventy-five  feet,  at  intervals  of 
from  three  to  five  hours.  It  frequently  continues  in 
action  from  five  to  ten  minutes.  Its  noise  during 
these  eruptions  is  equal  to  the  mighty  roar  of  its 
namesake.  The  Lioness  and  the  Cubs  are  not  far 
off.  The  Cubs  play  frequently,  as  cubs  should;  and 
sometimes  the  Lioness  and  Cubs  play  together,  but 
the  Lion  is  rarely  seen  playing  with  his  family. 

It  is  impossible  to  pass  the  Castle  without  espe- 
cial notice.     This  geyser  occupies  a  prominent  posi- 


358  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

lion  between  the  Splendid  Geyser  and  Old  Faithful. 
Its  cone  is  the  largest  in  the  basin,  and  the  forma- 
tion at  its  base  is  a  hundred  feet  in  diameter.  It  is 
one  of  the  oldest  of  the  active  geysers,  its  eruptions 
occurring  at  intervals  of  from  eight  to  thirty  hours. 
These  are  preceded  by  occasional  jets  of  water, 
rising  to  a  height  of  twenty  feet.  The  premonitory 
symptoms  generally  last  five  or  six  hours,  when  the 
real  eruption  bursts  forth  in  columns  of  water 
flung  to  a  height  of  seventy-five  feet.  This  is  fol- 
lov^ed  by  clouds  of  steam,  which  fill  the  air  for  a 
considerable  space.  Several  times  during  the  year 
it  has  a  celebration,  when  its  waters  are  thrown  to 
twice  their  usual  height,  and  the  steam  explosion 
which  follows  is  proportionately  violent. 

It  is  a  peculiar  fact  that  the  v/ater  of  these  gey- 
sers, if  placed  in  a  kettle,  will  remain  hot  much 
longer  than  ordinary  boiled  water.  Perhaps  the 
impregnation  of  mineral  matter  aids  in  the  retention 
of  heat. 

The  Sawmill  is  a  small  geyser,  throwing  its  waters 
from  twenty  to  thirty  feet  in  the  air.  It  is  active 
at  intervals  of  from  two  to  four  hours.  Its  vigorous 
action,  accompanied  by  the  peculiar  noise  which 
suggests  its  name.  Its  funnel  throws  out  its  water 
and  steam  with  a  defiant  touch-me-if-you-dare  air 


In  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin  359 

that  is  very  comical.  Here  are  the  Amber  Pool, 
Economic  Geyser  and  Beauty  Spring.  I  am  sur- 
prised to  find  a  bluebell  here  growing  in  a  crevice 
on  the  edge  of  a  crater.  It  has  no  companions,  and 
1  am  cruel  enough  to  pluck  the  hardy  little  flower 
and  place  it  between  the  leaves  of  my  sketch-book. 

The  Oblong  Geyser,  whose  interior,  after  an 
eruption,  is  exposed  to  a  depth  of  several  feet,  pre- 
sents the  finest  view  of  the  inner  structure  of  these 
phenomena  in  the  Park.  The  Giant,  which  is  said 
to  be  one  of  the  noblest  geysers  in  the  world,  is 
situated  close  to  Firehole  River.  Its  cone,  about  ten 
feet  in  height,  is  broken  on  one  side,  from  the  apex 
to  the  base,  affording  a  view  of  the  interior,  which 
is  in  a  constant  state  of  agitation.  The  mound  on 
which  it  rests  is  seventy-five  feet  in  diameter.  The 
Giant  is  active  about  twice  a  week,  and  continues 
its  eruptions  from  one  to  two  hours.  Its  vast 
column  of  water  rises  at  once  two  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  in  the  air.  The  close  of  the  exhibition  is  pre- 
ceded by  a  rumbling  sound,  which  has  been  likened 
to  a  distant  train  of  moving  cars.  We  are  unfor- 
tunate enough  to  miss  this  magnificent  display  by  a 
few  hours. 

Our  guide,  a  rather  quizzical  sort  of  fellow,  asks 
one  of  the  party  if  he  would  like  to  see  a  milk 


360  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

geyser?  "Yes,  yes  indeed;  where  is  it?"  is  the 
eager  reply.  Silently  the  guide  points,  with  his 
stick,  to  a  fine  cow  leisurely  meandering  along  the 
roadway. 

Reluctantly  we  turn  away  from  this  marvellous 
basin,  and  take  our  places  in  the  coach.  At  five 
o'clock,  we  find  ourselves  once  more  in  our  rooms 
at  the  Fountain  Hotel,  feeling  that  we  have  had  an 
experience  that  will  stand  out  among  the  great  days 
of  a  lifetime. 


Yellowstone  Lake  and 

the  Grand  Canon 


CHAPTER  XIII 
Yellcnvstone  Lake  and  the  Grand  Canon 

The  Castle  Geyser  Plays— Old  Faithful's  Farewell— Keppler  Cas- 
cade— Camera  Shots — Firehole  Canon — Continental  Divide — 
Isa  Lake — Craig  Pass— Corkscrew  Hill— Instructing  the 
Driver — Shoshone  Point — Thumb  Bay  Lunch  Station — The 
Shape  of  the  Lake— Over  the  Mountain  Tops— A  Striking 
Scene— Great  Yellowstone  Lake — An  Abundance  of  Water — 
More  Paint  Pots— Lake  Shore  Geyser — Fishing  Cone— Boil- 
ing the  Fish— The  Launch  "  Zillah  "—Dot  Island— Elk  and 
Buffalo— Mount  Sheridan— Absaroka  Range— Many  Lofty 
Summits— A  Glorious  Scene— Stevenson  Island— Lake  Hotel 
— Sleeping  Giant— Pelicans— Alum  Creek— Queer  Stories — 
Yellowstone  River— Mud  Geysers— Yellowstone  Rapids — 
The  Upper  Falls — A  Celebrated  Spot — Grand  Point — A 
Magnificent  View— The  Cafton — Brilliant  Colors — Inspiration 
Point— Point  Lookout — Lower  Falls — Moran  Point — A  Mil- 
lion Tints— The  Ravine— Devel's  Watch  Charm— Grand 
View  Point— A  Rapid  Descent— A  Charming  Walk— In  the 
Canon — Farewell. 


HOROUGHLY  rested  and  refreshed,  we  are 
ready  to  start  for  the  Lake  Hotel,  in  the 
Yellowstone  Lake  Region,  forty-seven 
miles  from  the  Fountain  Hotel  in  the 
Lower  Geyser  Basin.  It  is  the  fifteenth  of  July,  and 
six  o'clock  in  the  morning.     The  temperature  is 

363 


364  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

forty-four  degrees — yesterday  at  this  time  it  was 
thirty-seven  degrees,  and  on  the  ninth,  water  froze 
a  half  inch  during  the  night.  Snow  falls  here  at 
intervals  throughout  the  whole  year.  I  mention 
this  fact,  that  the  tourist  may  provide  suitable  cloth- 
ing for  a  journey  of  this  kind. 

Everything  being  ready,  we  take  our  places  in  the 
leading  coach  as  before.  (These  coaches  are  called 
the  "Thorough  Brace  Concord,"  and  are  made  in 
Concord,  N.  H.)  The  day  is  cool  and  crisp,  the  air 
delightful,  and  we  are  a  cheerful,  healthy  company. 

Our  first  stop  is  at  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin,  which 
we  visited  a  few  days  ago.  Here  we  are  so  for- 
tunate as  to  witness  an  eruption  of  the  Castle  Gey- 
ser— a  wonderful  spectacle,  which  we  observe  with 
breathless  interest,  the  coach  waiting  meanwhile. 

Another  piece  of  good  luck  is  the  play  of  Old 
Faithful,  Surely  the  Patriarch  must  have  known  of 
our  departure  from  this  region,  and  timed  his  exhibi- 
tion accordingly.     We  do  not  fail  to  stop  for  him. 

A  mile  and  a  half  farther  we  are  introduced  to  the 
Keppler  Cascade,  whose  waters  leap  from  a  height 
of  from  a  hundred  to  a  hundred  and  fifty  feet, 
forming  a  succession  of  falls  over  rocky  ledges, 
picturesque  and  beautiful.  The  cascade  is  framed 
in  the  dark  green  forest  which  affords  a  charming 


r:rl.^vf\f' vn^^*f^■'^■ 


j-;jj-yi  m\\^ 


..1.1' 


Yellowstone  Lake  and  Grand  Canon  367 

contrast  to  its  foamy  torrent.  We  all  "  shoot  the 
rapids "  with  our  cameras.  Along  the  Firehole 
Carion  we  wend  our  way  amid  scenes  so  wild  and 
enchanting  that  I  long  to  reproduce  them  with  my 
camera,  though  neither  pen  nor  photograph  can  do 
justice  to  their  brilliant  beauty. 

It  is  about  eleven  o'clock  when  we  reach  the 
Continental  Divide  on  the  Pacific  side,  at  an  altitude 
of  8,240  feet.  Here  we  see  the  lovely  Isa  Lake  en- 
closed in  the  rocky  mountain  pass,  500  feet  in 
length.  Crossing  the  Divide  through  Craig  Pass, 
we  descend  about  340  feet  in  the  next  two  miles 
along  the  slopes  of  Corkscrew  Hill.  How  well  the 
name  fits  this  rugged  height,  travellers  over  this 
road  know  only  too  well.  Our  experienced  driver 
smiles  as  he  hears  the  exclamations  of  his  pas- 
sengers when  he  makes  a  sudden  turn  in  the  road, 
close  to  the  edge  of  the  precipice.  He  tells  me  that 
he  does  this  to  make  the  drive  a  little  exciting:  if 
so,  he  certainly  attains  his  object. 

Apropos  of  this  locality,  he  tells  us  that  one  day, 
while  driving  along  the  road  leading  to  Corkscrew 
Hill,  an  English  passenger  attempted  to  instruct  him 
in  regard  to  the  management  of  his  four  horses. 
The  driver  received  the  directions  in  silence,  which 
seemed   to   annoy  the  tourist.     When  Corkscrew 


368  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

Hill  was  reached  Jehu  cracked  his  whip  with  a  yell 
that  sent  the  horses  galloping  down  the  winding 
path  as  though  a  pack  of  demons  were  after  them. 
The  traveller  started  to  his  feet  with  exclamations 
of  fright,  expecting  every  moment  that  coach, 
horses  and  passengers  would  be  dashed  over  the 
sharp  ledge  into  the  rocky  pass  below.  But  on  went 
horses  and  stage,  rounding  turn  after  turn  with  the 
utmost  speed  until  at  last  the  bottom  of  the  hill 
was  reached  in  safety,  without  another  word  from 
the  driver.  The  Englishman  drew  a  breath  of  re- 
lief, and  broke  the  silence  by  declaring  that  he  was 
convinced  the  western  method  of  driving  was  all 
right,  especially  in  a  country  of  rough  and  high 
roads. 

At  Shoshone  Point  we  have  a  magnificent  view 
of  the  beautiful  Lake  and  Valley  of  this  name, 
bordered  by  the  mountain  slopes  with  their  rich 
covering  of  fir,  spruce  and  pine  trees.  At  the  back 
of  the  lake,  fifty  miles  distant,  may  be  seen  the 
snow-capped  peaks  of  the  Teton  Mountains,  14,000 
feet  in  height.  On  the  western  shore  of  the  lake 
is  the  Shoshone  Geyser  Basin,  containing  many 
springs  and  several  large  geysers. 

Again  we  cross  the  Continental  Divide,  this 
time  on  the  Atlantic  side,  at  an  elevation  of  8,345 


Yellowstone  Lake  and  Grand  Canon  369 

feet,  and  now  descend  towards  Thumb  Bay  Lunch 
Station,  on  the  western  arm,  or  thumb,  as  it  is 
termed,  of  Yellowstone  Lake.  The  lake  seemed  to 
the  early  explorers  to  resemble  in  shape  the  human 
hand,  and  so  they  represented  it  on  their  maps,  but 
the  likeness  is  so  remote,  that  the  fingers  have  been 
gradually  dropped  from  the  maps,  and  only  the 
thumb  left  as  a  permanent  feature.  We  have  been 
travelling  over  the  mountain  tops  for  some  hours, 
amid  the  haunts  of  the  eagle,  and  close  to  the  region 
of  clouds.  Now  at  a  sudden  turn  in  the  road,  our 
driver  stops  his  horses  and  tells  us  to  look  ahead. 
Following  the  direction  of  his  outstretched  arm  we 
have  our  first  glimpse  of  one  of  the  most  striking 
scenes  in  this  wonderful  region. 

Across  the  tree  tops  we  behold  the  great  Yellow- 
stone Lake,  whose  silver  waters  gleam  in  the  sun- 
light three  hundred  feet  below  us,  and  the  dense 
pine  forest  which,  growing  close  to  the  edge  of  the 
shore,  frames  it  as  a  mirror.  Its  transparent  surface 
reflects  the  floating  clouds  above  it  and  the  green 
trees  that  lovingly  surround  it.  The  lake  is  about  a 
mile  and  a  half  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  has 
an  area  of  one  hundred  and  thirty-nine  square  miles. 
Its  average  depth  is  thirty  feet,  although  it  reaches 
a  maximum  of  three  hundred  feet.     Innumerable 


370  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

trout  inhabit  its  icy  waters,  and  the  fisherman  who 
would  explore  its  shore  line,  may  travel  along  this 
border  for  a  hundred  miles.  Few  lakes  in  the 
world  surpass  it  in  area,  in  altitude  or  in  beauty. 

It  is  a  blessing  that  water,  both  hot  and  cold, 
abounds  in  this  region,  for  the  amount  of  dust  here 
is  almost  incredible,  and  is  counteracted  only  by 
free  and  frequent  ablutions  of  the  outer  and  inner 
man.  The  tents  at  Thumb  Lunch  Station  appear 
plain  and  unpretentious,  but  the  tourist  receives  a 
hospitable  welcome,  and  the  food  is  abundant, 
wholesome  and  well  served. 

We  have  travelled  twenty-eight  miles  since  leav- 
ing the  Fountain  Hotel,  and  now  we  find  ourselves 
amid  scenes  of  almost  overpowering  beauty. 
Mountains  tower  3,500  feet  above  the  surface  of  the 
lake,  which  is  almost  wholly  fed  by  the  springs  and 
snows  of  the  Absaroka  Range.  It  is  said  that  these 
waters,  now  so  calm  and  placid  are  lashed  into  wild 
fury  by  the  heavy  southern  gales.  A  hot  spring 
basin  lies  on  the  western  shores  of  the  lake.  Its 
chief  attractions  are  the  Paint  Pots,  two  large  and 
beautiful  quiescent  springs,  fully  equal  to  those  in 
the  Lower  Geyser  Basin. 

Here  is  the  Lake  Shore  Geyser,  whose  fountain 
rises  at  short  intervals  to  a  height  of  thirty  feet.     A 


Yellowstone  Lake  and  Grand  Canon  371 

nameless  geyser  of  considerable  power  is  close  by, 
and  here  too  is  the  celebrated  Fishing  Cone,  the  de- 
light of  the  angler.  Upon  this  cone  one  may  stand 
and  throw  his  line  into  the  cold  waters  of  the  lake, 
draw  forth  a  fine  trout,  and  without  turning  his 
body,  lower  his  prize  into  the  boiling  waters  of  the 
Cone,  where  it  will  be  cooked  to  perfection. 

The  little  launch,  "Zillah,"  blows  her  shrill 
whistle;  and,  bidding  our  faithful  and  entertaining 
driver  farewell,  we  soon  assemble  on  her  deck,  to 
be  borne  across  the  water  to  the  Lake  Hotel,  nine- 
teen miles  distant.  The  stage  follows  the  line  of 
the  shore  to  the  hotel,  where  it  awaits  those  pas- 
sengers who  wish  to  continue  the  journey. 

The  Absaroka  and  other  mountain  ranges  form  a 
picturesque  background  to  these  shores.  In  the 
distance  is  a  wooded  spot  called  Dot  Island,  towards 
which  the  bow  of  our  vessel  is  turned.  Ere  long 
we  stop  before  its  primitive  wharf,  and  land  in  a 
drizzling  rain  to  take  a  peep  at  the  inhabitants,  who 
are  principally  elk  and  buffalo,  carelessly  eating 
within  an  enclosure. 

Once  more  upon  the  waters,  we  are  surrounded 
by  charming  views.  Our  altitude  is  greater  than 
that  of  Mount  Washington.  On  the  west  is  Mount 
Sheridan,  from  whose  summit  may  be  had  one  of 


372  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

the  finest  views  in  this  whole  region.  Its  height  is 
10,200  feet.  Towards  the  east  are  the  serried  peaks 
of  the  Absarokas,  with  Colter  and  Sunset  Peaks, 
and  Doane,  Langford,  Grizzly  and  Cathedral  sum- 
mits, Mounts  Washburn,  Dunraven  and  many  other 
lofty  heights  piercing  the  clouds  at  an  altitude  of 
from  10,000  to  11,000  feet.  On  the  south  are  the 
Teton  Mountains,  perhaps  the  most  remarkable  in 
the  Rocky  Mountain  series.  These  mountains  were 
long  known  as  Pilot  Knobs,  as  they  seemed  to  form 
the  principal  landmarks  of  the  overland  journey 
through  the  pathless  wilderness.  The  scene  is  a 
glorious  one,  and  the  exhilarating  atmosphere,  lively 
passengers  and  jolly  captain  render  the  sail  one  of 
perfect  enjoyment.  Passing  around  Stevenson's 
Island,  we  perceive  the  noted  profile  formed  by  the 
contours  of  two  mountains,  one  a  few  miles  behind 
the  other.  This  is  no  uncommon  appearance  in 
strongly  defined  mountain  regions. 

At  the  Lake  Hotel  our  altitude  is  7,738  feet.  A 
prolonged  stay  in  the  lofty  atmosphere  of  the  coun- 
try extending  from  Cinnabar  Station  to  this  point, 
produces  unpleasant  effects  upon  some  of  the  tour- 
ists. In  some  cases  it  causes  bleeding  of  the  nose, 
in  others,  nausea  and  fullness  in  the  head,  while 
many  persons  experience  accelerated  action  of  the 


Yellowstone  Lake  and  Grand  Canon  373 

heart.  But  many  feel  no  ill  effect  from  a  residence 
in  this  unusual  altitude. 

In  one  day  we  have  made  the  journey  of  forty- 
seven  miles  from  Lower  Geyser  Basin.  A  memo- 
rable ride  and  sail — accomplished  with  compara- 
tively little  fatigue. 

The  Lake  Hotel  is  picturesquely  located,  and  well 
appointed,  being  planned  for  a  longer  visit  than  that 
of  the  passing  tourist.  Here  is  excellent  fishing; 
and  good  boats,  rods,  etc.,  may  be  hired.  The 
drives  are  charming,  and  vehicles  of  all  kinds  may 
be  obtained  by  the  visitors.  We  remain  long 
enough  to  have  some  good  sport,  fishing;  to  take  a 
number  of  drives,  and  enjoy  a  needed  rest;  then 
away  we  go  again  with  our  coach  and  team  of 
white  horses.  Our  road  is  along  the  west  bank  of 
the  Yellowstone  River — and  our  goal  is  the  Grand 
Canon  of  the  Yellowstone,  seventeen  miles  distant. 
Upon  our  right  is  the  profile  of  the  great  Sleeping 
Giant,  whose  bed  is  the  lofty  mountain  ridge.  How 
peacefully  he  slumbers  upon  his  rocky  couch.  He 
"  heeds  not  the  cold  blast,  nor  winter's  icy  air." 

Many  pelicans  are  floating  gracefully  on  the  lake: 
others  are  fishing.  It  is  interesting  to  watch  them 
fly  high  up  in  the  air,  then  suddenly  swoop  down 
upon  their  prey,  which  they  carry  off  to  the  neigh- 


374  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

boring  hills  or  mountains  to  eat.  We  are  driving 
along  a  pretty  woodland  road,  and  now  cross  the 
little  bridge  which  spans  Alum  Creek.  Here  a  story 
is  told,  and  said  to  be  true,  of  a  lady  travelling  in 
one  of  these  coaches,  who  had  suffered  consider- 
ably with  her  feet.  Persuading  the  driver  to  halt, 
she  took  off  her  shoes  and  stockings  and  bathed  her 
feet  in  this  creek.  Upon  replacing  her  shoes  she 
found  them,  to  her  surprise,  very  much  too  large. 

Not  to  be  outdone,  another  passenger  relates  the 
story  of  a  coach  with  six  horses  and  a  half  a  dozen 
passengers,  which  forded  the  creek,  and  upon  land- 
ing on  the  opposite  bank,  the  passengers  were 
amazed  to  find  the  horses  transformed  into  six 
ponies,  and  the  coach  into  a  diminutive  chaise, 
while  they  and  the  driver  had  become  pigmies. 

The  waters  of  the  Yellowstone  River  are  cold  and 
transparent.  Hundreds  of  trout  may  be  seen  swim- 
ming to  and  fro,  or  darting  about  in  sportive  mood. 
About  five  miles  from  the  hotel  we  halt  to  view  the 
Mud  Geyser,  which  is  formed  of  several  large 
craters  filled  with  blue  mud  of  exceedingly  un- 
pleasant odor.  As  we  look  down  the  mouth  of  this 
formation,  at  a  depth  of  thirty  feet  we  behold  a  cave- 
like opening,  through  which  the  blue  mass  is  forced 
with  great  violence,  accompanied  by  a  dull  muffled 


I>> 


Yellowstone  Lake  and  Grand  Canon  377 

thud.  Its  outbursts  are  constant.  The  trees  about 
us  bear  witness  to  an  extremely  powerful  eruption 
in  1898. 

When  within  a  mile  of  the  Canon  Hotel,  the 
coach  stops,  and  we  have  our  first  view  of  the 
Yellowstone  Rapids.  The  river,  which  has  hitherto 
flowed  along  its  course,  a  tranquil,  lovely  stream,  is 
here  forced  by  the  canon  walls,  close  to  the  road. 
Large  boulders  obstruct  its  passage,  and  it  plunges 
wildly  between  steep  banks,  and  over  rocks,  break- 
ing into  boisterous  waterfalls,  and  casting  its  spray 
high  in  the  air.  At  the  first,  or  Upper  Fall,  the 
waters  flow  from  a  height  of  one  hundred  and 
twelve  feet  over  an  almost  perpendicular  precipice 
with  incredible  force  and  speed. 

The  hotel  is  a  structure  of  unattractive  exterior, 
which  agreeably  surprises  one  by  the  atmosphere 
of  comfort  and  good  cheer  within.  The  tourist 
finds  here  pleasant,  clean  rooms,  and  an  obliging 
landlord,  whose  aim  is  the  pleasure  and  welfare  of 
his  guests.  The  altitude  of  the  hotel  is  7,715  feet. 
Take  my  advice  and  go  early  to  bed  on  the  day  of 
your  arrival.  Do  not  take  your  first  look  at  the 
Grand  Canon  while  tired  in  mind  and  body.  After 
a  night's  rest  you  will  be  able  to  do  justice  to  the 
scenes  around  you.      Otherwise  you  will  miss  a 


378  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

perfect  appreciation  of  one  of  the  greatest  pictures 
in  the  Park. 

It  is  a  clear,  cool  day,  and  we  leave  the  hotel  for 
our  first  visit  to  this  celebrated  spot.  A  pleasant, 
shaded  v/alk  leads  us  to  Grand  Point,  from  wliich 
we  command  a  fine  view  of  the  Great  Falls  and 
Grand  Canon.  Here  we  first  look  upon  that  mag- 
nificent scene  which  is  everywhere  acknowledged 
to  be  without  parallel  among  the  known  wonders 
of  our  globe.  It  is  useless  to  attempt  to  describe  it. 
This  has  been  done  over  and  over  again,  with  far 
better  success  than  any  words  of  mine  may  hope 
for.  It  is  a  sublime — a  marvellous — a  magnificent 
spectacle.  One  is  speechless  and  bewildered  at  the 
first  sight.  The  cafion  itself  seems  too  vast  for 
expression.  Nature  has  lavished  her  colors  here,  as 
if  determined  to  outdo  everything  she  has  hitherto 
attempted — and  she  has  certainly  succeeded. 

Here  forest  covered  slopes  have  given  place  to 
loose  rocks,  with  broken  and  jagged  edges,  jutting 
crags  and  steep  precipitous  walls,  glowing  with 
color,  and  gorgeous  in  effect.  The  canon  winds  in 
and  out,  following  its  battlemented  walls,  and  at  its 
turns  are  points  well  known  to  the  visitors,  as  com- 
manding favorite  views — exquisite  glimpses  of  un- 
dreamt of  scenes — visions  to  be  carried  with  one 


Yellowstone  Lake  and  Grand  Canon  379 

through  the  years  of  a  lifetime.  The  spot  upon 
which  we  stand  is  one  of  these.  Inspiration  Point 
is  another.  The  cnnon  is  twenty  miles  long,  and 
in  some  places  the  forest  trees,  jealous  of  the  praise 
given  to  these  gorgeous  walls,  have  crept  down 
over  them,  close  to  the  river.  The  silence  that  pre- 
vails among  us  adds  to  the  impressive  grandeur  of 
the  scene. 

The  canon  measures  two  thousand  feet  across  at 
the  top,  in  its  widest  part,  and  two  hundred  feet  at 
the  bottom.  It  is  about  one  thousand  two  hun- 
dred feet  deep.  When  we  are  told  that  a  better 
view  may  be  obtained  from  Point  Lookout,  we  are 
incredulous,  for  it  seems  that  nothing  can  be 
grander,  more  beautiful  than  this  view.  However 
we  walk  to  this  point,  and  are  convinced.  From 
this  lofty  pinnacle,  the  prospect  is  more  amazing 
than  before.  Lookout  Point  is  a  great  projection  of 
rock,  overhanging  the  canon,  around  which  a  rude 
fence  is  built  as  a  protection  for  the  visitors.  The 
view,  as  we  stand  upon  this  outlook  is  stupendous. 
The  eyes  wander  from  one  distinctive  feature  of  the 
scene  to  another — from  the  magnificent  rocky 
walls,  for  which  the  canon  is  famous,  to  the  glo- 
rious waterfall  and  beautiful  river, — and  the  soul  is 
thrilled  with  awe  unspeakable. 


380  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

The  wonderful  combinations  of  color  here  are 
masterworks  of  Nature,  which  art  may  never  hope 
to  attain.  A  shower  fell  here  a  couple  of  hours 
ago,  and  now  the  sun  shining  upon  the  rocks,  il- 
lumes every  particle  of  color  with  splendid  effect. 

From  this  point  we  behold  the  Lower  Falls,  fully 
a  half  a  mile  distant,  and  can  hear  their  rush  and 
roar.  The  mist  from  this  great  falls  is  carried 
gently  upward  by  the  wind,  until  it  catches  the  rays 
of  the  sun,  when  an  exquisite  rainbow  adds  its 
charm  to  the  picture.  The  rocks,  parting  to  give 
the  river  passage  here,  leave  an  opening  of  barely  a 
hundred  feet.  Through  this  the  water  makes  a 
plunge  of  three  hundred  and  sixty  feet  down  into 
the  canon.  A  vast  volume  of  foam  and  spray 
almost  hides  the  face  of  the  river  as  it  makes  its 
mighty  leap,  and  the  incessant  roar  of  the  cataract 
may  be  heard  for  miles.  The  depth  of  the  water 
which  rushes  over  the  precipice  is  estimated  as 
thirty  feet. 

We  stand  rooted  to  the  spot  gazing  into  these 
depths,  from  which  ever  new  wonders  are  evolved. 
New  points  of  beauty  claim  our  attention,  while  the 
whole  mass  of  gorgeous  rock  and  shining  water,  of 
impenetrable  ravine  and  magnificent  waterfall  flings 
about  us  a  witchery  from  which  we  feel  that  we  never 


Yellowstone  Lake  and  Grand  Canon  381 

will  be  free.  How  is  it  possible  to  leave  this  spot  ? 
Can  one  ever  absorb  so  much  of  its  bewildering 
beauty  that  he  shall  say:  "  Enough  "  ?    Impossible! 

Moran  Point  is  the  outlook  from  which  Thomas 
Moran  painted  the  sketches  for  his  great  Yellow- 
stone Picture  in  the  National  Capitol.  Mr.  Moran 
is  said  to  have  stated  that  fully  a  million  tints  and 
shades  of  color  are  represented  here. 

When  one  can  disengage  his  attention  from  the 
canon,  he  finds  many  points  of  interest  along  the 
road  which  skirts  the  edge  of  the  wonderful  ravine. 
Look  from  the  roadway  across  into  the  ravine,  and 
you  will  behold  a  fairy  realm  of  indescribable 
beauty.  Here  the  winding  stream  flows  gently, 
and  its  softened  tones  are  lost  in  the  rustling  of  the 
pine  trees  that  almost  hide  it  from  your  sight. 

Here  are  the  majestic  Castle  Rocks,  rising  1,850 
feet  above  the  valley.  About  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
from  Inspiration  Point,  within  fifty  yards  of  the  edge 
of  the  canon  lies  an  enormous  block  of  granite 
among  the  trees.  This  is  a  singular  appearance,  as 
there  exists  no  granite  within  many  miles  of  this 
spot.  It  weighs  fully  seven  hundred  and  fifty  tons; 
and  this  trifling  trinket  is  named  The  Devil's  Watch 
Charm.  It  is  supposed  to  have  been  transported 
thither,  during  the  Glacial  Age. 


382  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

There  is  one  point  from  which  five  different  pros- 
pects of  the  canon  may  be  seen.  As  we  approach 
Grand  View  Point  we  meet  Mr.  Walker,  the  pro- 
prietor of  the  hotel,  who  tells  us  he  is  about  to  make 
his  customary  descent  to  the  valley. 

"What!"  I  exclaimed;  "do  you  go  down  that 
slope?" 

"  Yes,"  he  replies,  "and  in  a  hurry." 

In  a  few  moments  we  are  all  assembled  at  the  ex- 
treme verge  of  Grand  View  Point  to  witness  this 
feat.  The  descent  is  fully  1,800  feet.  Our  landlord 
appears  at  the  edge  of  the  precipice,  and  makes  a 
series  of  leaps  and  bounds,  springing  from  point  to 
point,  and  almost  before  we  can  realize  it,  we  be- 
hold him  through  our  glasses,  a  tiny  speck  in  the 
landscape  below.  The  slope  is  in  many  places  at  a 
pitch  of  fifty  and  sixty  degrees.  The  descent  was 
made  in  two  minutes,  but  Mr.  Walker  occupied 
three  hours  in  returning  to  the  top  of  the  canon. 
■  We  are  told  of  an  English  traveller,  who  made  the 
tour  of  the  Yellowstone,  viewing  its  many  wonders 
with  an  utter  lack  of  enthusiasm,  until  he  reached 
the  Grand  Canon.  Then  as  from  Inspiration  Point 
he  beheld  the  inexpressibly  glorious  scenes  around 
him,  he  sank  upon  his  knees  in  silent  adoration. 

As  we  walk  through  the  woods  on  our  way  back 


Yellowstone  Lake  and  Grand  Canon  383 

to  the  hotel,  we  suddenly  perceive  a  fine  buck  deer, 
who  seems  as  surprised  as  we  are,  and  after  stand- 
ing just  long  enough  for  a  snap  shot,  bounds  away 
into  the  forest  with  the  swiftness  of  the  wind. 

Many  of  the  visitors  entertain  themselves  in  the 
evenings  by  climbing  the  hill  in  the  rear  of  the  hotel, 
and  awaiting  the  appearance  of  the  black  and  grizzly 
bears  with  their  families.  They  are  very  shy,  and 
you  must  keep  yourself  hidden  behind  the  bushes, 
or  they  will  remain  in  the  backwoods,  too  far  off 
for  observation. 

There  is  a  lovely  walk  along  a  foot  trail  to  the 
Lower  Falls.  The  scenery  along  this  walk  is  beau- 
tiful; and  here  you  may  look  down  the  ravine  and 
see  the  river,  shining  now  and  then,  but  oftener 
dark  under  the  shadows  of  the  mysterious  forest. 
Now  you  reach  the  edge  of  a  precipice,  from  which 
there  is  another  charming  view.  This  path  leads  to 
the  very  edge  of  the  Falls,  and  the  cation  from  this 
point  presents  a  grand  and  imposing  picture.  This 
seems  to  be  the  spot  for  the  photographer,  artist, 
lover,  poet.  Here,  surrounded  by  the  marvellous 
works  of  nature,  each  one  is  inspired  in  his  own 
way  to  express  some  of  their  sublimity,  beauty  and 
grandeur. 

Good  fishing  here  also  affords  its  pleasures  to 


384  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

those  who  desire  them,  and  lines,  rods  and  other 
conveniences  are  at  the  service  of  any  followers  of 
Isaak  Walton  who  may  chance  to  stray  this  way. 
We  make  many  pilgrimages  to  this  indescribably 
beautiful  canon,  sometimes  remaining  hours  wholly 
engrossed  by  the  great  pictures  around  us.  But  the 
day  comes  when  we  must  take  our  last  walk  along 
the  shaded  path — must  send  a  last  regretful  glance 
into  the  mysterious  ravine — and  then — we  find  our- 
selves once  more  behind  the  four  white  horses, 
whirling  along  the  dusty  roads,  en  route  for  the 
Mammoth  Hot  Springs,  via  Norris  Geyser  Basin, — a 
drive  of  about  thirty-two  miles. 

We  start  on  our  return  trip  at  half-past  six  o'clock 
on  a  clear  cool  morning.  Upon  leaving  the  hotel, 
our  road  ascends  to  an  altitude  of  8,192  feet,  and 
now  we  pass  through  miles  and  miles  of  pine  for- 
ests. Some  of  the  trees  here  are  twin  trees,  two 
distinct  trunks  growing  from  one  root,  and  stand- 
ing side  by  side,  each  having  its  individual  develop- 
ment. 

Our  horses — Bob,  Dick,  Larry  and  Whiskers — are 
playful  and  spirited,  and  when  our  whip  curls  his 
lash  over  their  ears,  they  prance  and  show  off  with 
great  intelligence.  Our  way  is  past  many  familiar 
scenes,  and  we  waft  many  a  greeting  to  the  lofty 


Yellowstone  Lake  and  Grand  Canon  387 

summits  that  have  accompanied  us  through  the 
greater  part  of  our  journe}'.  When  we  approach 
Norris  Geyser  Basin,  we  feel  as  though  many  days 
have  elapsed  since  we  were  introduced  to  its  won- 
ders, now  less  splendid  in  comparison  with  our  re- 
cent magnificent  experiences.  We  drive  along  the 
Gibbon  River,  passing  quickly  its  many  lovely  views, 
and  halt  just  a  moment  to  admire  Virginia  Cascades, 
which  gleams  in  picturesque  beauty  in  the  wild 
rocky  canon.  We  meet  many  other  coaches  on  our 
way.  Now  the  walls  of  Gardiner  Cafion  close 
around  us,  and  its  wild  and  turbulent  river  rushes 
madly  over  boulders  and  ledges,  much  resembling 
a  foaming  cataract.  Here  are  the  rugged  walls  of 
gray,  the  long  toboggan  slides  upon  the  mountain 
slopes,  and  the  great  boulders  that  seem  suspended 
in  mid  air,  which  greeted  us  on  our  entrance  to  the 
Park. 

Over  the  last  crossing  of  the  river,  along  a  wind- 
ing road,  and  through  the  "Silver  Gates," — those 
great  blocks  of  limestone,  rising  to  a  height  of 
seventy-five  feet — we  pass,  and  soon  find  ourselves 
once  more  at  the  Mammoth  Hot  Springs  Hotel,  the 
starting  point  of  our  tour  through  the  Yellowstone. 

in  conclusion  I  would  express  my  thanks  for  the 
many  kind  attentions  of  the  hotel  proprietors,  officers 


388  Touring  Alaska  and  the  Yellowstone 

of  the  Transportation  Company,  and  faithful  stage 
drivers  of  the  Park.  While  many  suggestions  could 
be  made  to  add  to  the  comfort  of  the  tourist,  the 
tour  of  the  Yellowstone,  to-day,  with  its  dust  and 
its  geysers — its  lakes,  mountains  and  glorious 
canons — its  marvellous  outbursts  and  transcendent 
views — is  a  golden  opportunity  for  one  to  broaden 
his  ideas  of  the  universe,  and  to  observe  Nature  in 
her  most  wonderful  and  mysterious  operations. 


THE  END 


Vacation  Days 
in  Hawaii  and  Japan 


By  CHARLES  M.  TAYLOR,  Jr.,  author  of  "Touring  Alaska 
and  the  YellowBtone,"  "Odd  Bits  of  Travel  with  Brush  and 
Camera,"  etc,,  etc.  With  over  loo  half-tone  illustrations  repro- 
duced from  photographs.  Crown  8vo,  uncut  edges,  361  pages, 
with  unique  cover  design.     Price,  $1,60  net;    by  mail,  $1.79. 

Mr.  Taylor  has  a  charmingly  simple  style  that  is  very 
attractive;  his  descriptions  of  the  scenery  and  people  of  the 
two  countries  are  so  vivid  that  the  reader  is  left  with  the 
impression  of  having  actually  seen  them.  He  tells  of  many 
quaint  customs  still  retained  by  these  odd  people,  of  amusing 
jinrikisha  rides,  of  visits  to  temples  and  palaces,  of  strange  tea 
drinkings  and  of  a  novel  stay  in  the  interior  of  Japan  never 
before  visited  by   English-speaking  people. 

Mr.  Taylor  is  a  keen  observer,  who  penetrated  beyond  the 
beaten  track  of  the  usual  tourist,  and  his  sketches  of  home  life, 
natural  beauties  and  everyday  scenes  have  individuality  and 
charm. — Literary  News. 

Mr.  Taylor's  aim  is  to  show  the  characteristics  and  sur- 
roundings of  the  native  peoples  and  their  home  life,  rather 
than  to  describe  the  scenes  which  confront  the  eye  of  the  ordi- 
nary tourist. — Review  of  Reviews. 

Two  conspicuous  merits  this  capital  travel  book  has  over 
the  average  in  its  class.  It  describes  new  grounds  and  scenes, 
and  the  narrative  ripples  along  with  the  ease  and  liveliness  of 
a  brook.  A  third  feature  of  exceptional  worth  is  the  picture 
department. — The  Philadelphia  American. 


For  Sale  by  all  Booksellers,  or  promptly  forwarded  by  the 
Publishers  upon  receipt  of  the  required  amount 

GEORGE  W.  JACOBS  ^   CO. 

105-105   South    Fifteenth   Street 
PHILADELPHIA 


The  British  Isles 
Through  an  Opera  Glass 


By  CHAKLES  M.  TAYLOR,  Jr.,  author  of  "Touring  Alaska 
and  the  Yellowstone,"  "Vacation  Days  in  Hawaii  and  Japan," 
etc.,  etc.  'With  48  full-page  illustrations,  principally  from 
photographs.  Crown  8vo,  uncut  edges.  320  pages,  with  artistic 
cover  design  in  gold.     Price,  $1.60  net;  by  mail,  $1.76. 

Mr.  Taylor  traveled  through  the  British  Isles  with  an 
observing  eye,  a  ready  note-book  and  a  camera,  which  he  used 
with  discreet  intelligence.  The  narrative  is  brightly  written 
and  abounds  in  anecdote,  while  the  personal  point  of  view  is 
ever  present  and  adds  a  touch  of  piquancy. — Philadelphia  Press. 

If  anyone  expects  minute  details  in  this  pleasing  record  of 
a  summer  tour  he  will  be  badly,  but  not  sadly,  disappointed. 
Throughout  the  book  the  writer  maintains  the  plan  of  giving 
the  momentary  glimpse  of  tilings  which  he  sees  through  his 
opera-glass.  His  purpose  is  to  tell  how  pleasant  the  journey 
has  been,  and  to  communicate  as  much  of  it  as  possible  to  the 
reader,  but  with  no  detail,  nothing  burdensome,  nothing  weari- 
some, just  the  easy  flowing  description  which  one  would  write 
to   a   friend. — Church   Standard. 

The  places  visited  have  previously  received  many  calls  from 
tourists  and  have  been  described  many  times,  but  the  author 
has  seen  much  that  has  escaped  the  common  eye,  and  h?  delivers 
it  to  the  reading  public  in  a  fresh,  cheerful  style  that  makes  a 
fascination  even  though  one  has  been  in  the  localities  or  has 
read  of  them  at  great  length.  His  book  contains  much  pleas- 
antry, which  annuls  the  notion  of  wearing  detail. — Boston 
Courier. 


For  Sale  by  all  Booksellers,  or  promptly  forwarded  by  the 
Publishers  upon  receipt  of  the  required  amount 

GEORGE  W.  JACOBS  (EL   CO. 

103-105   South    Fifteenth  Street 
PHILADELPHIA 


Odd  Bits  of  Travel  with 
Brush  and  Camera 


By  CHARLES  M.  TAYLOR,  Jr.,  author  of  "Touring  Alaska 
and  the  Yello>vstone,"  "  The  British  Isles  Through  an  Opera 
Glass,"  etc.,  etc.  With  55  full-page  illustrations,  reproduced 
from  photographs,  and  colored  frontispiece.  Crown  8vo,  uncut 
edges.  358  pages;  bound  in  cloth,  with  handsome  decorative 
cover  design  in  gold  and  black.     Price,  $1.60  net ;  by  mail,  $1.76. 

These  bits  of  travel  charmingly  describe  little  sojourns  in 
England,  France,  Holland,  and  Germany — principally  in  Hol- 
land, with  its  ancient,  interesting  customs  and  its  quaint  people. 
It  tells  of  many  an  odd  nook  and  corner  and  many  picturesque 
spots  in  the  Old  World. — The   Washington  Post. 

Mr.  Taylor  is  in  search  of  the  picturesque  and  particvilarly 
of  subjects  for  his  camera,  and  the  book  is  illustrated  with  a 
great  profusion  of  photographs  of  street  scenes,  groups  of 
peasants,  odd  bits  of  landscape  or  of  architecture  and  the  like. 
The  frontispiece  indicates  that  he  used  the  brush  as  well  as  the 
camera  and  with  success. — The  Philadelphia  Times. 

It  is  a  charming  portfolio  filled  with  delightful  bits  of 
scenery  and  characteristic   figure  studies. — The  Book    World. 

The  little  bits  of  color,  the  scenes  the  hurrying  tourist 
passes  over,  the  life  of  the  street  and  the  quaintness  of  the 
byway  and  the  back  path  are  brought  out  by  him  with  an 
artist's  touch. — The  International  Magazine. 

The  book  is  a  capital  one  either  to  recall  one's  own  travels 
or  to  excite  the  liveliest  desire  to  follow  in  the  steps  of  this 
entertaining  traveler.^ — The  Philadelphia  Public  Ledger. 


For  Sale  by  all  Booksellers,  or  promptly  forwarded  by  the 
Publishers  upon  receipt  of  the  required  amount 

GEORGE  W.  JACOBS  (Ei   CO. 

103-105   South    Fifteenth   Street 
PHILADELPHIA 


Cr-^ 


C^ 


L 


THE  LIBRARY 
UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA 

Santa  Barbara 


THIS  BOOK  IS  DUE  ON  THE  LAST  DATE 
STAMPED  BELOW. 


^RETURNED  OCT  1  4  19$ 

RtTD  0CT141996 


ut  auu  I  ntnn  htbiUNML  LiDnahT  raoiLi  i  r 


AA    000  879  292    i 


3  1205  00931  6892 


